Hello everyone. One day when I tried to start machine batteries were weak so I replaced them. Once I got it started, I noticed I no longer had any N in the transmission indicator there was also a brake light (in instrument cluster) that would stay on for a long period. No matter what I did the parking brake switch would aways stay lit as if the parking brake never releases. Prior to this, I would start machine and unit would beep at me and brake light would not go out. Then it would make a loud buzzing noise Cycling the key, it still beeped for a while then eventually shut off. I am thinking it may be an issue with the brake pressure switch. I see two switches on a unit below the brake pedal.where front and rear brake lines seem to end up. Does any one know that the 621d (with low to no brake pressure) would have some fail safe to not allow it to move? I am also wondering which of those two switches would be the one likely causing this problem, what each is for and how to tell difference between the two. Thanks
The brake valve under the cab could be the issue. Check the pressure switches there and the accumulators under cab for brake operation. If the accumulator is low the pressure will not build and park brake will not release or transmission engage.
Thanks Coy for information, I proceeded with information you gave me and used diagnostic information as per the manuel by scrolling through the instrument cluster using the program/reset and up down switches to check the brake switches. display location number 17 (brake pressure switch status) showed a 01 which stated open which was normal pressure display location number 44 (redundant brake pressure switch) 00 which is switch closed which is also normal Seems like under the cab there is a hydraulic control unit that has two swithes on it one looks like it is in the line for the front brakes and other for the rear. I am guessing these are the brake and redundant brake switches (want to make sure I am correct). Finally I went to display location number 45 was able to check service brake foot switch it cylced from 00 to 01 as I pressed on the brakes. I also saw in display location number 031 that if there was a TECM shutdown there would be 400 displayed, but mine stays at 000 (shift not in process) no matter what gear I put it in. I am assuming this means all swithes are working properly for the brakes. So I did a little more reading and found out fault codes start at positions 71 and run up to poistion 90. There were several codes one at about 27 hrs ago 47000 CAN interface failure where no signals received over one second of time and 1 hr later 46229 which is an error at communication on CAN . Since the code 47000 came up 1st,went though possiilbe steps for repair: clear codes, restart machien and monitior it. I proceeded to do that, (there were 4 other faults that also cleared) but it seems like this is a hard failure and I can not find any more information on it.. Is this CAN controller in the cluster? Any advice on where I may or where to look for more information?
I believe the 47000 code deals with the transmission auto adjustment. The 46229 I'm not sure what it is but if you have the service manual there should be a fault code list and explanation in there.
Still have not got problem fixed, but I do believe the transmission ECU is the issue. I got to plug one in from another loader (different brand but same zf transmission) and now I have transmission notifications showing up in dash again. Parking brake does not release now and I have a few codes. should i check pressure with a gauge at the brake valve or is going though the program mode on the dash in position 17 (brake pressure switch status) good enough. What else could cause the parking brake not to release? Is there way to by pass it? Does any one know where I can get a used one or possibly this one repaired? Part number is 87427310 thanks
Just a few things before you condemn a transmission controller. In my experience, the transmission controllers rarely fail. However, I have seen instrument cluster failures. Might seem like a basic step, but please check all of your fuses. Remove them all and check for corrosion. In regards to the brake pressure sensors, you can just jump them with some wire to trick the controller. The 2 that are the same are normally open, close at 900psi. The third is normally closed. Opens at 1700psi. Fourth one is for brake lights. You should be able to trick the cluster if brake switches are your issue. You can check this in the monitor on brake pressure switch status. Make sure your brake lights work. Early machines were wired funny, and a damaged or burnt brake light can cause issues. Are there any active fault codes right now?
I do have some codes and so everybody else can see what we talked about here is what you shared with me. the 1st two codes are on the original module 47000 CAN interface failure 46229 Error at communication at CAN these are codes on new module 46021 logical error at FNR switch 46058 short circuit to battery voltage or open circuit at output speed sensor 46150 not listed in service manual 46246 Clutch adjustment data lost .... It would appear that the different software may be the cause of several codes. It would also appear that the TCM from your Doosan is coming online, while the Case TCM is not coming online. So i will check the following as you suggested.. "Locate the 9 pin deutsch diagnostic connector in the cab. With the Doosan TCM installed: With the key off, measure resistance from pin C to pin D With the key on, measure voltage from pin A to pin C With the key on, measure voltage from pin A to pin D With the Case TCM installed: With the key off, measure resistance from pin C to pin D With the key on, measure voltage from pin A to pin C With the key on, measure voltage from pin A to pin D" I willl try this weekend then I will let you know my results. If it was just a software mismatch, are you aware of anyone that can get ora way to load the right software on the other unit or am I just better off getting one from another case unit.. I have located a few of them but they are twice the money.
Some of the other things I retested tested went to display location 017, brake pressure switch status had an 01 for status manual says this is normal went to display location 043, parking brake switch status seemed to switch from 00 to 01 when toggling switch so it seems to work; went to display location 044 redundant brake pressure switch and it was at 00 ( per manual this means switch is closed = normal operation.) went to location 045 and with new control module it does not change from 00, so I thnk this may be why it never releases parking brake. So what can I do for this part of the problem? I would imagine one of the switches is not working. As you were mentioning above, if I unplug this switch and short it out it should both change the indicator to a 01 and make brake lights illuminate. I found the two that look the same and had pigtails coming off sensors and also one that has a metal clip in it to hold it in place (looks like a bosch injecor style connector) and this plug is right at the sensor. Is the other one for the brake pedal switch closer to the top of the brake unit? I could not find this fourth connector you mentioned. One other detail I did not share that may not be relevant. I did break the front windshield and cleaned up a bunch of glass. Some was even buried under the brake pedal. I do seem to get full travel out of the pedal. Unit was covered and glass replaced with in a few days, just waited to clean it up.
See attached pictures, the 2 same brake switches are item 15, near the accumulators under the cab.
The other 2 brake switches are at the brake pedal. They are not pointed out in the picture, but you can see the sensor pigtails.
I found the two on my accumulators and the two on the brake valve.. The two So it appears as if the ones in the front are the actual brake switches and the ones on the accumalotors are the redundant ones.
Ok, so I got a case transmission ecu, once I cleared all diagnostic codes, nothing came back. however still does not move. When I go to position 45mto check foot brake, it stays in 00 and I have no brake lights. So I am guessing that is the problem. I also found in manual foot brake switch is a connector that has a red and tan wire so it helped me located it. Tomorrow I will check for power on red wire and go from there.
Sounds like you have made some progress. Keep us posted. You will also have to calibrate the transmission.
Got machine to move, have a code 46025 which is for open circuit ride control, and relay is missing. Do you have a picture of fuse box and relay placement. My relay box is missing one, not sure if I took it out when I started testing and lost it, or if I put one in the wrong place and I should be missing one. On another note, I found info in manual for transmission recalibration. Any hints or things I need to watch for. Also I notied I do not have auto function in transmision display in cluster. Will that come after I do the recalibration?
Here is the fuse box, early serial number range
Here is the fuse box, late serial number range JEE 0135501~
The transmission calibration is fairly straight forward, just follow the instructions. You will have to have the transmission at operating temperature, in order to do a calibration. Calibration will fail if the temperature gets too low, or there is machine movement. Make sure your park brake is working, or chalk your wheels tight. Make sure the transmission is really hot before you start the calibration. It will cool off during the calibration, and if it falls below the threshold the calibration will fail. I would also recommend doing another calibration after working the machine a hour or so. I believe your auto function will work after the transmission calibration.
521D, 621D, 721D transmission calibration Transmission Clutch Calibration Clutch Calibration ensures the most optimum shifting of the transmission. Before doing the following transmission clutch calibration procedures make sure of the following: 1. The machine is running and the transmission oil is warm. 2. Engine low idle speed is correct. 3. The transmission is in neutral. 4. The park brake is applied. 5. If steps 1 through 4 have been accomplished, calibrate the transmission clutches as follows: A. Put the transmission in the manual shift mode and the gear selector in 3rd gear neutral. B. Press the program/reset switch to program. C. Press the up/down count switch to up count until the display reads 011. D. Put the program/reset switch in the OFF (center) position. E. Press the up/down count switch to up count twice, so the display reads 02. F. 2 00 00 will begin to flash in the display center. G. After one second, the Clutch Calibration Main Code status will be displayed in the 3rd and 4th spaces (2 XX 00, the XX represents the 3rd and 4th spaces). H. The Modulation Cycle Number will be displayed in the 1st and 2nd spaces (2 00 XX, the XX represents the 1st and 2nd spaces). I. During Clutch Calibration, the Clutch Calibration Main Code will change from 01 to 07 as the process is completed. Code 07 indicates that the calibration process is complete and the information center will return to normal working status. J. If any of the Clutch Calibration parameters are incorrect, the display center will stop flashing and display a code in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th spaces. If this occurs, the code in the 3rd and 4th spaces will be a Clutch Calibration Main Code 09 through 14 and indicate what process the calibration was in when it was aborted The 1st and 2nd spaces will produce the Clutch Calibration Sub Code, which is the code that informs the operator of the reason the process was aborted. K. After completing the Clutch Calibration procedure, turn the machine OFF for 15 seconds. This sets the calibration in the controller. CLUTCH CALIBRATION MAIN CODES Main Code Meaning 00 Clutch Calibration Mode was not initiated because one of the requirements was not met. 01 Adjusting 1st gear. 02 Adjusting 2nd gear. 03 Adjusting 3rd gear. 04 Adjusting 4th gear. 05 Adjusting Forward gear. 06 Adjusting Reverse gear. 07 Clutch Calibration Completed. 08 Operator aborted calibration procedure. 09 Aborted while adjusting 1st gear. 10 Aborted while adjusting 2nd gear. 11 Aborted while adjusting 3rd gear. 12 Aborted while adjusting 4th gear. 13 Aborted while adjusting Forward gear. 14 Aborted while adjusting Reverse gear. CLUTCH CALIBRATION SUB CODES Sub Code Meaning 00 Calibration in process. 01 Fault present. 02 Shift lever not in neutral.
ok so I looked at a few things, on the two rows of relays, I do not have the relay on 1st row, 2nd from bottom. I do have one in 2nd row 2nd from bottom even though picture shows it does not take one. When I switched them, unit would no longer move. So I put them back the way they were. For a side note, I noticed today unit may be idling a bit high. Is there a position in program reset switch that I would get a read out of the rpm? Then I tried to calibrate clutch and no luck. I figured it was not warm enough, when I went to 007 and then watched the temperature of fluid, driving around in 3rd gear it never went above 70 degrees. I then just held brake while it was in forward and saw temperature start to climb up to 90 ish but I did not want to continue and cause any damage. So I just stopped. I do also remember when I put it in calibration mode I got a 20805 in display ( think it is a code saying it was trying to adjust forward clutches but idle was to high. ) What should I do?
I missed a few sub codes, from my last post 03 Park brake not applied. 04 Output speed not 0 kph/mph. 05 Low transmission oil temperature. 06 High transmission oil temperature. 07 Low engine RPM. 08 High engine RPM. Code for 2 08 05 is as follows 08 is main code of: Operator aborted calibration procedure 05 is sub code of : Low transmission oil temperature You should have gotten a code 2 00 05, but maybe you pressed a button first? It would appear that your transmission temperature was not hot enough. I would recommend trying to get the transmission hotter. I usually do a torque stall (hold the brake while in gear) for about 10 seconds or until the temperature gets to 120 degrees Celsius (warning light will flash). You don't want to overheat the transmission, so don't red line the gauge. I believe the transmission has to be at least 80 degrees Celsius to perform a calibration, and that is your sump temperature. I would warm transmission to at least 95C before trying a calibration. The gauge on the display shows your torque converter out temperature, which is always hotter than your sump. (you cant see the sump temperature from the display) You will have to work the transmission into the yellow line multiple times in order to get the sump temperature hot enough. You may have to do this more, depending on your outside temperature. You may need to cover the rads with cardboard too. Here is how the manual tells you to do it. Procedure to Heat the Oil Torque Converter 1. Sit in the seat. 2. Start the engine and run the engine at low idle. 3. To measure the oil temperature with the instrument cluster: A. Press the program switch. B. Press the up count switch to function 007. C. Return the program switch to the OFF (center) position. 4. Place the declutch switch in the OFF position. 5. Place the automatic switch in the manual mode position. 6. Release the parking brake. 7. Move the transmission control lever to Forward and turn the transmission control lever to 3rd gear. 8. Increase the engine speed to full throttle and run the engine at this speed until the instrument cluster shows a temperature of 115°C (239°F). 9. Decrease the engine speed to low idle and move the transmission control lever to the Neutral position. 10. Wait and allow the converter temperature to cool to 90°C (194°F). 11. Repeat steps 4 through 9 three times until the temperature of the torque converter oil is 82° to 104°C (180° to 220°F).
Hi turbotoys, clutch calibration will accept engine revs from around 800 to 1100 rpm, t/m in neutral, park brake on, t/m sump above 70 degrees C. So possibly block radiator with some wooden panel, cardboard plate, sheet metall. Temps after converter up to 120 degrees is not in issue for t/m or t/c. Also sump with 90 degrees is okay. (you are at standstill, above system might throw a code too high sump temp)
I did see temperatures climb fast yesteday by holding brake and raising rpm just did not want to cause any damage. So i will do this again this weekend a few times to see if I can get temperature to that spot, I will also block radiator as suggested to keep temperature up. On another note, can you tell me if the auto should function before the clutch calibration is complete. I feel like it should and I want to bring it up to the person i purchased used ECU before he tells me too bad. Thanks for your responses
I believe that the auto shift should function after a clutch calibration. Bigbert can probably verify this. Was this TCU from a case machine? Do you know if it was from a case 21D series wheel loader? If I remember correctly, auto shift was a option on some of the older wheel loaders, B and C series.
Hi guys, I'm not sure whether there is limitation in function with or w/o clutch calibration. I'm afraid there is not. So there might be some other reason for no auto shifts. Is there a rocker switch at dash to switch to auto or in cluster? The tranny wil shift also w/o clutch calibration, shift comfort might a bit worse. And you allowed to run w/o calibration. At least B series was equipped with former ZF WG trannies like 4WG120, 150, 180, 200. No clutch calibration. Case switched to Ergopower possibly already with C series, definitely with D series. 4WG130, 160, 190, 210 with clutch calibration. Later at least with G series 5 speed t/m with lockup clutch. Not sure on E's.
Helllo, auto shift now seems to be working, not sure if it was just a user error or something i did. I am now only concerned about the high idle. It seems to be around 1500 or so if I had to guess. I forgot to go to display box 001 to check the actual RPM. I tried disconnecting the actual throttle cable to see if I could just manually turn idle down, but even with cable disconnected, still seemed to idle at same point. What can I check? Thanks
HEY GUYS , we have the same issues with a instrument cluster on a CASE 721 and we find this guys FROM Dashboard Instrument Cluster in Toronto Canada . They fix it for us . I understand they have a office in Miami USA too and i was told by our local Case dealership they are approved CASE refurbished / repair facility . i hope that will help