Hello new here and new dozer owner. My brother and I recently purchased a Case 850 for use on our farm clearing land and getting some fields back into shape. Best i can tell so far as i havent looked into it to much is the dozer is a mid to later 70's. It has a 8 way blade on it. So far the machine seems to run great. Has fairly new chains on it and one new sprocket, the other will need replaced soon. Anyone have and general tips for this machine maintenace wise. I need to find a manual for the machine to figure out which fluids i need to put in this thing. Also does anyone know any good sources for parts, sprockets rollers, and the main spherical bushing where the blade attaches to the lift frame is shot and dont know if those parts are still available anywhere. Thanks Pat
The single biggest thing, is no matter what anyone tells you if the clutches in that machine are wet clutches and not dry, the torque and transmission require TCH oil in them, hytran is not a substitution for TCH on the case dozers, hytran will eat up the clutch linings on those machines and it gets expensive, most local dealers will tell you hytran is safe to use, its not. As for the hydraulic oil, use the cheaper hytran, those dozers are pretty descent machines to run, really simple and still get something done at the end of the day. I've never seen one with an outside 8 way on it before, only four way blades or six way blades, I've also never run an 8 way before very much, a six way is unbeatable on those machines, about the handiest size dozer on the market. The case dozers have what some call two speed steering, or both tracks are under power as you turn, instead of stopping one track to turn, once you get onto this, its the biggest thing ever, verses say cat machines of the same age, those require a track to stop in order to turn the dozer. Not sure how much you've run a dozer, but once you get onto this you'll do just fine. The older case machines probably won't have brakes that work, my dozer never had brakes till I finally took the time to fix them and get them working again, its not a big deal, just something to remember, especially when it comes to loading and unloading the machine on trailers. If you just bought the dozer, and don't have a maintenance history, change all the oils and filters first and just check it over for leaks, most case dozers have some to fix somewhere, other than that, its pretty straight forward and easy to understand, ask any questions you want I'll do the best I can to help you out. Is the dozer a straight 850 or is a B or C model 850, not that it makes a huge difference, but mine is a C model. As for parts manuals or service manuals, shop on ebay, I think case still offers them new as well if you want to spend that much. Case should be able to get about any part on that dozer as well, depending on age of the machine and what vintage it is, otherwise shop after market parts on the internet. Just google case dozer parts and see whats available in your area, in mine there are several that make aftermarket rollers, sprockets and chains, some imported from korea and others like berco, which by the way, made case parts for new case dozers back in the day, even today yet, on some things, so just shop around some, for what your going to do with and the hours you'll probably put on it, I'd go as cheap of parts as you can for that machine, it'll get the job done no matter how high priced the parts you put in it are or how cheap.
Good info to know on the trans fluid. I have a maintenance manual on the way via ebay. I believe it is just the straight 850. So far the machine seems to run great. Only problem we have is the main spherical pivot in the front is messed up. Someone buggered it up with some weld in the past. Im gonna have to make some parts at work and figure out how to bore out the main support some. any insight on this? The way i want to redo it im going to have to make make the bore about 5/8-1/2" bigger in dia. We have already moved some dirt and are pleased with what it can and cant do so far. Would be nice to warm up and dry out some though.
Without seeing it or photo's of it, I can't really say how to go about it, exactly.
Hello 88 how you been?
let me see what i can do about pics
So that was a picture of the bore where the spherical bearing goes in. The bore is slightly egged, but you can see around the top there where someone has welded up around the edges. I dont know if that is a sleeve someone welded in or someone did that to try to hold the spherical bearing race in. My plan at this point is to machine a sleeve with a step on the bottom to hold the bearing on the bottom and a snap ring on the top. I will try to grind the bore out to accept the sleeve and weld it in. This will allow the bearing to be serviced again in the future. that is the dozer.
your track could be loosened up some. looks nice though especially for the vintage.
PatF10 looks like a nice older dozer, by the picture I think you got the right idea, I'd give it a try if it were mine, ask in the shop section of the forum, maybe those guys have a different idea, but I certainly can't see a downside to the idea. Shopguy, I've been busy with my shop door most of the winter, not sure if I"m gaining or not, but its coming along anyhow, as soon as I'm done and it works I'll get some pictures up of it. Anyhow, hope things are going good in your section of the world. Chat later.
Thanks, so far this is the only real issue we have found. my only worry is there is already a sleeve welded in there and when i start opening up that bore ill find the remnants. But i think ill premake some parts so hopefully i can get it all done in one shot. Ill post up in the shop section and see what insight i can get. oh yea the brakes work real nice, they also have the knob on them so the still have power during braking, im thinking this may be nice on some hills so it doesnt go into neutral when you press the pedals. The track does look tight there, but my brother is backing up there its actually a bit looser.
Got a general operating question. When on hills what is the best way to shift between forward and reverse without being to harsh on the driveline. I dont want to slam between forward and reverse. But when i use the brakes it basically shifts to neutral then i have that delay between engagements. I could switch the brakes to maintain power to the tracks when applied so i could still slow down without it going to neutral. If ayone has some advise/ insight direction i would appreciate it.
Not sure how your dozers set up, mine has a foot throttle, brakes are separate of anything else, when you apply them, they don't shift anything else just brake, and your turn levers are not hooked to the brakes, as in some other brands of dozers do it. I only use the foot throttle, never the hand throttle, when shifting from high to low with the levers, I don't worry about the neutral at all, just shift from high to low, using the throttle to do what I need to do to make a smooth transition between the high low ranges. when going from forward to reverse, I idle the dozer down, if your brakes work, apply them, shift the opposite direction, let off the brakes, then stomp on the foot throttle again. Now that said, I hardly ever use the brakes, I either am pushing dirt and need to go the other direction, and the when you idle down, you stop anyhow, or when I'm backing up, I drop the blade as I let off the throttle, use the blade to slow the dozer, shift directions and stomp on the throttle again, only when I don't want to drop the blade or am not pushing do I use the brakes, then very seldom if ever, most times I just let the dozer slow after the idling down and when it comes to slow or stop, shift and head the other direction. As for the high side and low side lever down by your foot, or as some see it, down on that lever is 1st and 3rd, and up is 2nd and 4th. I hardly ever switch, most of my work is always in first and third. On the later model case dozers, they have an additional lever up on the counsel and you can switch on the go between all four gears, something that's really nice once you get used to having it and need to go back to the older dozers. Not sure that answers your question or not.
yea my brakes work the same way expect there is a knob down by your left foot by high low shifter. You can pull it in or out and it changes how the brakes work. One way cuts power to the track and the other does not. I generally operate how you described, but have found it difficult on hillsides to minimize hard shifts or jerking the machine around when switching from forward to reverse or starting from a dead stop.
Ok a couple of questions im looking into changing all my fuids now that it is warming up and the machine will actually see some more serious work. I dont have my maintenace manual handy and couldnt find my answers in a search so i figured id ask here. So i got some general info off a spec sheet for a case 850C although mine is a regular 850 its a little older. Engine Oil 2.5 gallons I figure something along the lines of a rotella 15w-40 should work well Hydraulic system 12 gallons Curious on this as well, if its generic type oil i can get from tractor supply or napa Trans+TQ converter 8 gallons case TCH as reccomended earlier (from case dealer) Final Drives 1 gallon ea fluid type? gear oil wt? And where do i check the fluid level on the tq converter?
Pat, I'd have to go look for sure, but I think your right about the capacities, there about anyhow, engine oil I'd use the 15w40, hydraulic system use what you want, a hytran or universal fluid type from anywhere. trans and torque, get this right, tch, don't let anyone talk you into something different, don't use hytran or anything else, final drives I'd use 80/90 gear lube in those. To check the level in the torque, do it with the transmission dip stick, it checks both, there's a hose that connects the two, you fill both at the dipstick tube as well, its been years since I've looked at a straight 850 but what I just told you is for a C model, they should be very similar if not the exact same. Change all the filters too, and the fuel filters and if it has an inline fuel filter, some had them change that as well. Make sure you dump the belly pans out and clean the dirt out of them, I'm thinking there's a screen and filter for the torque too, but I'd have to look at the book to be sure, you see those after the belly pans are off, check the screen for filings and debris. If the engine has a coolant filter, change it too, some did some didn't. Best of luck