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Case 850 trans questions

Rod drott ยท 2013-06-09 05:17

Hi All, I have just picked up an old case 850 drott for farm duties, I think it may be around 1974 mod. It needs the track adjusters rebuilt on both sides. [ old rusted and some parts missing]I have the ability to correct this problem. The trans is low on oil, just on the oil dip stick, and I've been told to check the filter for particles. Could anyone help me with some info on the ID of this machine Mod D 13662, No MB 074, trans id 601 2681689, id on battery cover side 7073874, eng id A301 BD. This machine was assembled / built in Australia. I would like to buy a manual for this machine if available,or find a good source for info. I don't know what the correct fluid is to top up the trans and also what part # for the trans filter? Is it hyd fluid, TCH, or some other trans oil? I would like to know that the trans is ok before I put the work into the track adjusters. Every thing else on the old girl is working. Thanks for any feed back.

Replies9
  1. #1alrman2013-06-09 07:30

    Welcome to HEF Rod drott! The actual serial number of your machine would be 7073874. According to info I have it makes it built in 1970. The tractor would be built in the USA. Rippers (if fitted) probably only part from AU. Case have an on line parts catalogue that you will find helpful - http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::model_find Type in 850 & be sure you select the correct serial number for yours. There are 2 transmission filters, one of them is a suction screen - this is the one to check for 'particles' The oil recommended for them was TCH - a 10w transmission oil. In saying that, all the ones I know of, (I make a living out of repairing these things) use 15w40 engine oil. Your old girl may, or may not, have trouble picking up the heavier weight oil. The transmission filter part number is - A62871 Genuine Case P552455 Donaldson TIP - there is a bypass valve that sits inside the filter element - don't throw it away with the old filter

  2. #2Rod drott2013-06-09 16:39

    Hi Alrman, Thanks for the welcome, and for the info.I will do some investergating on the old girl today.Thanks for the tips. Regards Rod

  3. #3Rod drott2013-06-09 17:28

    Hi all, How important to the operation of the drott is the torion bar set up as this is missing from this old machine I have.

  4. #4alrman2013-06-09 17:56

    Most of all the 'old' models with that set up, that I have seen, Have all been welded up. The later model loaders were all rigid in the track frame design, only the dozers would have equalizing beams. They seem to work just fine being welded up that way. So I guess the answer is more questions....... how original do you want it to be? & how much time & money do you have to get it that way?

  5. #5Rod drott2013-06-11 05:29

    Hi Alrman, thanks for thr reply. I'm not worried about the originality of the old girl, just the practicality. I checked the filters on the trans and topped up the oil level. No leaks and works ok. The left trans brake does nothing, when pressed. The right dissengages and locks when pressed as I think it should. Any pointers on what to check with this. Also I've decied to repair the track adjusters. I need to replace the recoil spring housing tubes. I'm wondering if anyone could tell me the length of these tubes as I have the flange end and the spring locator end and the springs but the tubes were cut off when I got the machine. Or are these springs under tension when bolted up to the hydraulic/grease adjuster housing before the grease is pumped in?

  6. #6alrman2013-06-11 07:56

    You've got some problems there mate. The brakes aren't too bad to deal with, but those recoil springs...... Firstly, figure out if the brake is not working because of hydraulics or internal mechanical problems. If you pull the floor plate you should see the brake housings on the front of the tranny & the master & slave cyls. Check fluid levels & see if there is any movement of the slave cyl. Chances are the master & slave will need repairs or replacement. Secondly, I have no idea how long those tubes are supposed to be, but if you don't get any replies here you could guesstimate it. Since the tube is gone, are the springs loose? Are they still attached to the machine? Yes, they will be under tension in the tubes, the manual says they have a free length of 20-7/32" & have 2-7/32" compression - I guess there's a clue with the tube length...... Usually they would be assembled using a press, however the manual says you can install 5 x 5/8"studs & do them up evenly to compress the spring & then replace the studs , one by one with the bolts. :eek2 Goes without saying the studs would have to be High Tensile. There would be a bit of pressure there....... Can you give us some pictures of the situation? It will help.

  7. #7Rod drott2013-06-11 15:50

    Thanks for the reply, very helpful. I'll use the guesstimate method for the tube length, and the compression info will help for that. I have all the parts for the adjusters ( loose and seperate) just the tubes were rusted till failure. For sure I'll use GR 8 bolts. Thanks for the tip. Another question about the brakes, what fluid is used in the master cyls to top up? Is it brake fluid , hydraulic , or more of the trans fluid I used for the trany? This forum is great help for my lack of basic mechanical know how.

  8. #8sheepfoot2013-06-11 16:45

    Your brake fluid is a DOT-3 in that machine.

  9. #9Rod drott2013-06-12 04:46

    Thanks for the reply.