Hi, anyone know what is going on? I got new lights for my Case Dozer. 1. The original front lights work fine and I simply pigtailed in to the front harness in close proximity to the front lights to push24 volts to the roof lights. 2. Their are six total 12-24 volt mounted (two rearward facing , four forward facing) brand new military surplus truck lights bought on eBay. 3. Meter shows power getting to the lights but they do not light up. (Each was tested and show 1.8, to 1.9 ohms). 4. Each has its own toggle on -off switch and with the meter I was able to get them all in the proper ON position. 5. With power switch on original front lights are good but new ones get power (w/meter) but will not light up. 6. On-off switch tested bad. I tested it and it was not reading any ohms regardless of where I put the probes. 7. The dash is wired correctly as per manual, as are the front and rear harness setups. Can it be a bad on off switch on the dash? What am I missing. Help appreciated...
Many LED lamps are polarity sensitive. Reconfirm that + is plus and - is -.
Hi thanks for the reply. The old lights are LED with red(hot) and black(grnd) and the replacements are simple black(grnd) and white(hot) wires. The single wire going to the harness is white but I put a black wire going up through the ROPS to the newest lights(not LED) . What do you think Heymccall?
You verified voltage to new lamps. Now, let's verify the ground circuit. Using a conventional test lamp, instead of putting the clip on the battery ground and the probe tip to the voltage circuit.....putting the test lamp clip on the battery positive and use the probe tip on the ground connection at the new lamps. If ground is present, the test lamp will illuminate. Clip connected to battery positive, touch tip to frame to verify test lamp operation.
Sorry for the late reply. Thank you big time for leaning in to help. I do not have a ground at each lamp. I have a ground wire connecting the first two lamps and the second two lamps (two pairs = front set) and the second pair has a ground there (wired screw in the roof frame). The back two lights are on the same ground wire connection. Do I need a ground at each lamp? Am I stoopid?
Think of electricity as water in a pipe, the lamps as sink spigots, and the ground as the drain in the sink. Electricity goes up the positive wire from the battery positive post, through the light and down the ground wire to the battery negative post.
The black wire from each new lamp needs connected to a metal part of the machine which, in turn, is connected to the battery negative. Another issue after you get them to turn on......using the water in a pipe analogy.....you adding extra spigots to the water pipe will overload the circuit, so, instead of running out of water, you'll melt the wire or blow a fuse. The existing lighting circuits are designed for a certain load. And your adding a lot more load to that wiring.
Hi and good morning Heymccall. I will go out this morning and ground these lights after deciding whether to cut back on the number of lights. I thought that since there are no fuses in this setup just a harness, I could get away with the extra lights. On the dash there is only the 40amp and the 25amp breaker. Maybe I should have gone with the more expensive LED lights as they are far less draw on a system(the eBay deal was too good to pass on tho). The 18ga wire could melt?(thats not good.) [BREAK] Just talked on the phone to an old friend. Too many lights = no good! Need to add separate 25 amp breaker and switch to each set of lights unless I intend to fry wires. I am off to Kingman Auto and hope the price is not prohibitive. The back set should actually be on the rear harness, so that will decrease the load somewhat. The breakers should help. Back to after my adventures in Kingman...Thanks again Heymccall!