Just bought this loader and am going over it. I think I might have the wrong operators manual. This is a 1979 model. My manual shows fluid levels are checked by removing one of the drive case bolts. Shows to fill from these bolts-doesn't make sense. I tried this and it appears to me that these are just bolts that are not open to the drive. I found what appears to be the fill plug on top of the case-which is where I put the oil in and filled till it was full. My question is: is this the way to fill and do you top off the drives until it is full on the very top off the drives? Seems like a lot of oil. It turns out that one final drive was empty and the other drive lost its drain plug completely. I haven't run it but the previous owner surely did. How much damage do you think could have been done and what are indications of final drive wear. Obviously I am not a mechanic but I am handy and look for advice. PS. He told me that he had the finals rebuilt at some point.
The 850 s/n 7073469 and before took 7 qt gear lube, after 7073469 it took 4 qt gear lube and the 850B also took 4 qt. The first two I think had a plug to the rear at axle height and the B had it on the inside, there was also a skid plate for the B's and up to keep rocks from hitting the drain plugs if needed. At this point I would dump the oil and put it back at the right levels (2) oil sample it (3) pull the lower housing cover and take a look (4) run it and hope for the best. If it has been run dry for any length of time you will be going in it. The top shaft bearings cap outer can also be removed for a look. I would go in it and replace the bearings and seals if it were mine if I found it dry, may be able to save the housing and some parts that way. The top shaft bearings spin at least 5 to 1 of the bull gear and axle. Other than putting a large pry bar between the track frame and shaking the sprocket for movement and oil leaking out from the axle seal, there is not much more you can do than pull it down or run it and take the chance.
To check final drives, you need to get under the machine, there is a level plug a couple of inches above were the sump bolts are. You should have 7 litres of oil in each side. Here we use 85/140 - we have no snow....... It is not uncommon to lose a drain plug, espeacially if the protective steel guards arond the plug are worn away from years of dirt & rocks hitting them. If this is the case with yours, simply fitting a new plug, is only a temperary fix, as it will come loose again, you really need to build up those protective barriers. If it has run for some time without oil, you might be in trouble. If there is no movement in the output shaft/axle I would fill it with a light oil & diesel blend , run it for a couple of minutes & drain; fill with recommended oil & continue to run the machine & monitor the oil appearance. If there is any problems with bearings or gears it will show in time. Just drop a small amount of oil from the sump from time to time into a clean container - the oil should be always be clear with very little if any metal flake. - don't forget to top it again. You have nothing to lose doing this. edit - pipped to the post by sheepfoot
Thanks guys ! Next problem- the transmission dip stick is missing the breather cover. The flat strings and everything else appears to be there. Case advised that that stick is not available. I was thinking of jury rigging a breather on top of the existing dip stick. My question is how far down should the stick go for an accurate reading? There are two flat springs that compress into the transmission tube. If those two spring tops are flush with the top of the transmission tube is that correct placement? I'd include a picture but that appears to be above my pay grade. Case guy had no idea. Is there an area that explains how to post pictures?
Should the drain plugs on the final drives be flush using just a ratchet to tighten? The one remaining drain plug is the same as the fill plug, you remove with a socket. The head on that is worn to a point that you can't get a wrench on it.
The oil drain plug is a recessed one requiring a ratchet to remove not a socket. That plug is totally protected and still is recessed. That's why I thought all the drain plugs should be recessed.
1) "flat strings" ???? - I'm guessing springs? Are you saying the cap/breather is there & that there is no dipstick attatched to the cap? 2) See here for picture posting - 3) Drain plugs - the hex plugs are no longer available from CNH & are replaced by the round ones with the square drive. Someone has fitted an updated one as the original was either lost or had to be chiseled out, due to being worn thin, the last time oil needed to be dropped. Sounds like your housings need to be built up to protect the drain plugs, as described in my last post.
Sorry I wasn't clear. The breather is missing and the rest of the dipstick is there. I thought maybe the top off the flat springs would end up flush with the top. I'm just trying to figure how far down I push the dip stick to receive an accurate reading.
To be sure of what you have, pictures would be great.
I'm having problems resizing pics but I'll send some as soon as I figure it out. Thank you
Beer man, you are correct, the two springs go in the tube and the breather fits down over the tube, the top of the springs are about level with the top of tube. The converter and trans hold 8 gal of trans/converter/hyd fluid (TCH).
Thanks- now I just have to figure out how to add a breather. You guys are great and I appreciate all your help....obviously I need it!