I got a friend who has a Case 50D and might be needing a boom cyl. He has called several places and they said there are two different sizes for them.Well he has the bigger cly of the two. Will a 1080 cyl fit? Or does anybody know where theres a Case 50D for salvage. Im thinking his 50D is a later version cause it's the Case power tan color.
First the 50 series was not painted a power tan and brown cab. He should try to get the S/N off the cab if possible. They made a 50E after the D series, and the 50 series matched up with the 1280 and 1280B that were painted the power tan with a brown cab. I will do some checking to see what may match up but the pin hole size, ports, and stroke will have to be checked.
It is painted brown and says Case on the counterweight in the 70's logo.It has had the engine which was a Detroit replaced with a 504 Case engine. I will get the serial # off the cab for ya.I know of the 50's that were white and yellow but this is painted like a 1080 or 1280.Im thinkin its a 79 or 80
Here is a pic of it.
Man I love this old Case iron. Grew up on an old 1080B. What a brute. Not the fastest, but for loading trucks I'm pretty sure she would give my 210 a run for its money. I know most guys loathe it, but that house leveler had it's place sometimes.
Yes really need s/n. What is wrong with his cylinder that it needs a total cylinder. A new cylinder complete will be over 10 grand from case. If his s/n is 6279926 and after the tube is the same for a 50D, 50E, 980B, 1280, 1280B. these all have the !0 (3/4) bolts that hold the gland. The rod is the same p/n for the 50d, 50E, 980B. The cylinder assembly is also the same in the 50D, 50E, 980B. The 1280,1280B rod is different due to a upgrade, they machined in for a seal to retain grease for that pin on the rod end but should work. There are more machines that use that cylinder but these are the common quick ones and you have to watch the s/n. That machine has a E boom also and not a Y boom. If you can get a pick of the gland and S/n it would help to id it further.
Sheepfoot,I talked to my buddy and he gave me this info.The machine s/n is 6280273 and it is a 50DC.The boom pin size is 3" and is 70'' from center of boom pin to top of barrel.This is all I have until I get over to there other farm where it had been working.He has called around and all the 50D's guys says they got has a smaller pin size and the cyl or tube isn't the right length.Hope this helps.The reason for the replacement is the tube has been welded on so many times and they have tried to also weld it off the machine several times.Im thinking it's cracked or something.Anyway they need a new tube there tired of welding I guess.
Case used to have bad problems with the welds on the glands on their cylinders not holding up. We had to reweld all the backhoe cylinders on our 680E and 780C, the boom and stick on the 880B, and all the cylinders on the 1080B. The guy we had weld them would work a third at a time to keep the gland true. He would air arc out every single bit of old weld, he would almost be through the cylinder. He would fix them once, never gave trouble after that. Not sure what Case's problem was but they had one for sure.
Glad to know that my buddy isn't the only one who has had trouble.
I've had the boom cylinder crack between the tube and base on a 880C at 1000hrs , welded it up and works fine. Recently had the screw in gland on the stick pop out, had a cylinder repair shop cut down the threads, buildup and cut new threads for surprisingly little money. Have a 580B that I am ashamed to say that I beat on it hard at times and NEVER had a hint of hydraulic system problems. If an OEM is $10K, I would look in having a shop custom build a new one if the old one can't be rebuilt, about 10 years ago I started looking custom fabbing for OEM parts that I thought were overpriced and found about 15% of the time custom was the way to go, sometimes you can even improve on the old design. I understand on the newer equipment it is not that easy but on the older, perhaps obsolete stuff it is worth considering.
I would retube a cylinder that size for 8-1400. However it may not need to be retubed. The weld may just need to be V 'd out on a lathe and the base removed. Cleaned. Reattached and a completely new weld. Wouldn't know till it was apart for inspection. I would strongly recommend you check the play in the pivots and the straightness of the whole unit other wise you will be repeating the process
Defently something to think about.
Well the ol 50 is back runnin again.I talked to him yesterday and they welded it.Hope it holds for awhile this time.
Was the guy who welded it aware of needing to be careful with how much he welded at a time? Or, what my guy did was tag the gouge in about the middle before rewelding.
Good to hear they were able to weld it up. The lower cylinder mounting holes along with the boom mounting structure should be checked by watching how much movement there is while raising and lowering the boom. That cylinder can have lots of stress at the base and rod end. The good thing it was built with a self aliening bearing on the rod end of the stick, that solved some of the worn pin and bushing issues where the boom/stick join up. If you should happen to go by there snap a pic of the repair area and gland.
Ok will do.