Anybody need any help with a Case M series 2 Backhoe? If so please ask and I will try my best to answer any questions.
Hey snowy, just got the info on the new series three mid week, lots of changes including major changes on the 590 pumps and hydraulic systems, new engines, new rear transaxle with outboard brakes electronic throttle, just a dial now, also the foot throttle is electronic but with normal feel, electronic engines of course in some models, swing out coolers for easy radiator clean, I could go on , but if you havn't already if you are close to whats going with Case you may have the same stuff I have. We will be seeing it soon, We are near to closing a deal on the first one.
be interesting to see the pics on some of the changes like the swing out radiator. more electronics is that a good thing or a bad thing ? :beatsme or will you be doing this when it breaks and you have to pay for repairing it :Banghead
Cat, It will be interesting to see of course but the electronic throttle technology has been used in over the road trucks for years now The tier 3 government mandated emissions is what it is all about and everyone is or will be there soon. The engine of course is the Iveco Cummins Family of engine and is no stranger to us, just the tuning by laptop will need to be learned as the trucking industry has had to do. All progressive Case dealers are already useing laptops for the Hydrostat crawlers so the adaptation to engines will not be difficult, the Cummins software program comes with the service package as we purchased it. will keep you posted, we are excited about the new machine. The M series has been an excellent machine so far.
I havent come around to that new Cummins/Iveco motor yet. Starts terrible in the cold. I think it has more power but it doesnt respond as nice as the Cummins in L series.
The latest Ivecos start easily but have the grid heater , The earliest GH setups were set to activate at 29F, only problem was they wouldn't start below 35F. (oops) I updated all the units we sold to the new harness and relay setup which sets the GH activation temp to 45F. If there are any units out there that are not updated there is a kit to do as I described, units should have been updated under PUP, but would have to be done now at customer expense as the program has expired. The latest setup, common rail extreme high pressure injection electronic engine I suspect may not even need GH but I'm not sure of that. We will be seeing our first soon as we already have one sold at retail sight unseen.
since i have an older model I have block heater and either start . now what is the grid heater vs the block . I know that when I speced out an '07 I wanted what ever would make it start in the cold. are these good for real cold weather with out pluging them in?
Melben, Yes Case is coming out with great new stuff soon. Basically the following models: 580M, Mechanical and pilot 580Sm, Mechanical and pilot 580SM+, Pilot only with a Variable volume axial piston pump 590sm, mechanical only 590sm+, pilot only with Variable volume axial piston pump I have had an oportunity to operate some of the variable volume machines and they do work good, should get some better fuel economy with the variable volume. By no means am I an operator but I was impressed. The variable volume systems will also have a compensated loader valve that will all you to multi function. What dealer do you work at? Cat320, The grid heater is a resistor that is placed in the intake. Basically when the key is turned on when it is cold out, the battery "shorts" accross the grid heater making it warm. When you go to crank the air is then drawn over the hot resistor and warmed before entering the combustion chanber.
Cat320, Forgot to mention sometimes it is counterproductive to use a block heater and Grid heater as the grid heater works off of coolant temperature. The warmer the temp, the less time the grid heater is on.
snowy, I work at C.H. Waltz Sons, Inc in North Central Penna. We sold our first #3 early this AM to a township that is well placed and people watch what goes on there It has been sharing between Case and JD. It is a multiple unit township and this trade will make it a Case only twp. I will be anxious to get trained but already have training on the 90 94 96 series ag pressure /flow compensated systems so am familiar with the concept and the company may choose to train some younger techs as I can usually think my way through things. I hope we don't run into the resistance that our competitors did with their closed center systems, Case people don't like a machine that quits when it gets against something hard to dig.
So this new series of backhoe's is going to be the series 3? I kinda thought Case would bring out a new model letter.
I know last week we took our M out around 2 o'clock and droped it off at a parking lot we were going to haul snow out off at 10 pm. The temp was around 25 or so. It has a grid heater and we also plugged it in. We got there and i was really suprised at how much it struggled to start up. Almost sounded like the battery was gettin low. Im not exactly sure as how the grid heater works though.
Nate V, If you really want to know how the cold start works send me a PM with your email and I will send you some schematics. But basically it works using the temperature sender in the thermostat housing. With the update kit, when the temperature of the coolant is below 45, the controller will send a signal to the cold start relay which allows a direct circuit from the battery, through the grid heater and to ground. This will happen for 2-10 seconds depending on temperature. Now the issue maybe that with a block heater the temp sender is seeing a false reading of sorts. Yes the coolant is warm but the air coming in and the combustions chabers are still going to be cold, therefore it may be hard to start. It is kinda a catch 22, basically the temp sender should be looking at air temperature not coolant. Yes the new series is going to be a series 3 and yes it will have a grid heater even with the electronic engine. The main differance being it will now be controlled buy the engine controller and not a seperate controller. The new series will also be getting new transmissions. There will still be the standard powershuttle, however it will now have a SAHR brake. No more anoying buzzergoing off when the lever is out of adjustment. Also the powershift will now be a Carrao make.
The Case system will not be a true closed center system. The pump will be blocked at about 3gpm, therfore it will act like a gear pump at low pressure standby. This is accomplished using the flow regulator in the backhoe valve similar to the M series 2 580 mechanical machines. The main thing is that the 590SM2 pilot circuit is going to be gone and replaced with the Variable volume or PFC. This shoould be a big improvement. Feel free to ask anymore questions. I forgot how much fun this kind of is.
So this updated grid heater kit will work off the air temp now vs the coolent temp? or a combo of both ? It sounds like it will suck up more juice to get it going in cold weather . so I guess a good option would be to stick with the dual battery set up.I have one idea for case they should make the compartment bigger for bigger batteries. Please post any pics or drawing of any new case inovations on the 580.
The updated system discussed earlier will cut out the grid heater during Cranking. Therefore you have full battery power available to crank the engine. It takes a measurment of the coolant temperature only. it is my personal opinion that it should be monitoring both air and coolant. Not sure if this will be done on series 3 or not, probably not.
Snowy, as you pointed out earlier, the block heater renders the grid heater useless, if the water temp is above 45 the grid heater recieves a signal from the water temp sender at the front of the engine effectively shutting off the Grid heater. If the air temp was read as the factor to turn on the grid heater then the hot water block heater would work making a really easy starting engine and saving much on required starting amps. What I thought was interesting is the post heat phase, the circuitry is designed to hold grid heater action for a period of time after startup, Interesting to watch the Voltmeter lay down till the post heat is complete then pop up to normal. I have started these units at 10 F and they start easily, really just like summer and come up running clean, no miss or white smoke and they don't have to turn fast.
Lets see if this works...
Snowycuda, Thanks for volunteering your time for some Q&A. I have an '05 Super M and it is a cranky critter when it's cold out. Kinda surprises me compared to my DT466 which starts like it's 80* outside even if it's 15*. So i don't have the updated software in mine to improve starting? How much do you think it will cost to have a road service update done to mine? I just replaced my batteries yesterday because they're shot after 3 yrs/1,200 hrs. I think the cold starts this winter did them in. I also notice my red warning light stays on when it's cold for a long time. Any ideas what that's all about? Is this just real cold hydraulic fluid? Filter was just changed 100hrs ago. Should I increase idle more when it's cold? Thanks a bunch.
No good for starting under 15 deg or so.Couldnt use either with the grid heater so we installed a block heater.$80 bucks from local case dealer,1 hour to instal already pre tapped for bolts,just drain the coolant down, pull out the soft plug that has the holes ready for the bolts,and bolt the block heater on.refill coolant and your ready to go.Just plugged ours in 10 minutes ago. Since the installation of the block heater it starts instantly even though the temp has gotten down below zero.It is easier on the engine,starter and batteries to have the block heater.If you own a "M" in a winter environment I would get one yesterday
We almost bought our new"m" down there at waltz. They didnt have the one we wanted.I was just in lockhaven today looking at a job in lamar township for the industrial park water tower site
Duke, I sent you a email with the bulletin. Not sure how much to install as it was orignally a PUP. The bulletin says 1 hour to install so it should be 1 hour label plus travel and parts. You may be able to cover under warranty depending on how hard you complain. Not a promise but wouldn't hurt to ask as it is a known issue. The way to tell if you have the update is to look at the cold start control panel and look for two small realys. the new setup has the two small relays and one large. the old only has the large. If you are talking about the filter bypass then yes this could come on until you are warmed up. I wouldn't worry about it until it stays on after reaching operating temperature. The best way to warm up would be to operate functions slowly and hit relief at the end of the strokes. Only hold over relief for a couple seconds. this will allow you to perform an operational check while you warm up.
Melben, Are you in sales or service?
I always thought the Carraro drivetrain was a good product. Will the mechanical controls stay the same as they are now and come standard? Ive had some aches in my shoulders and elbows afterwards but I still prefer mechanical controls over pilots. The pilots are easier to be precise, but I still feel more comfortable with the sticks. My opinion may change after running one for a long period of time but I like being able to spin the seat around and dig. Not push a button to make everything work and adjust the position of the control towers. Being a tall guy, I have a hard time spinning the seat around and getting past the control tower. The feeling of the valves opening makes me more comfortable also. When moving the stabilizers often, those electric controls are annoying and not in the most conveniant spot. Added the metal bar above the took levers.
Found this on the M series 3. http://directory.forconstructionpro...-Loader/M_Series_3_Loader/Backhoes_25234.html
earth lead we have had the same problem on a 2005 580 super m ,it was traced to a bad earth on the chassis which is a common fault apparently ,the main earth lead now goes to the starter and then back to the chassis,also check connections on the isolator switch which is on the earth lead cheers graham
Snowy Cuda, I am the old man in the service dept. I started at my family owned dealership in June 1962 after graduation, have attended factory training at Racine , New Holland and once in Atlanta. Mel
Thanks, snowycuda. One other minor issue: Have you heard any customers complaining about the dark gray painted areas (like the hood) on the M series hoes having bubbled paint? My hood wasn't primed properly and as a result, the hood's paint is bubbling off. That's probably the only issues I have with mine, cranky cold starts and the hood's paint job.
Question Regarding 580M Turbo Hello Snowycuda, I am looking to purchase a 2002 Case 580 m turbo 4x4 unit with 2,800 hrs. Since you seem to know alot about the mechanics side, I have a few questions. 1. Do you know of any mechanical flaws with this system such as the drive tranny, turbo or engine? 2. What is the typical bearing replacements on the backhoe arm does it depend on hours or usage? 3. What do I have to look for on the brakes, any idea if worn indicators can be seen? 4. What do you think I should see with fluid leaks around the engine or tranny? 5. Hydraulic system a variable flow or fixed - Open Center? Here are a few pics.. Thank you for your input. NOB
2800 hours is baby steps. It would be a while before you should need new pins and bushings in the hoe provided it's greased properly. Brakes usually last a long time. Ive heard an average of 10,000hrs.
1. The 580M may have a 2 spider differential. These are prone to failure after awhile and would need to be replaced with a 4 spider if they do indeed fail. I am not sure if this machine has the two gear or four, but it is something to keep in your mind. The trannies are pretty good. May need to occcaisional torque convertor or charge pump, but overall pretty good. Same basic transmission that was first used on the l series 1 machine through m series 2. One other note to look at would be the hydraulic pump mount. There are some issues with this area of the machine. If the pump is not installed correctly the splines can shear and if the bolts holding the mount to the engine come loose they can break and or wallow out the holes in the block. Once the block is wallowed out you would need to bore and bush or install a new block. 2. Pins are pretty good. My opinion that there is alot of personal opinion and operator ability that goes into boom slop. Best thing to do would be operate machine in real world situation and see if it is an issue for you. The smoother you are the smoother the backhoe will apear to be. 3. The only brake wear indicator would be to visually inspect the brake discs themselves, this can only be done by splitting the axle and disassembling. Use them till you loose them I geuss. 4. I would hope there aren't any leaks around the engine or tranny. Since this is an older machine in age you will need to identify leaks seperatley. the dealer has the ability to determine the type of leak using dyes that will light up the oil under a blacklight. You may request this if there is an undeteminable leak between two mating surfaces. 5. Hydraulics are an Open center gear pump with a priority stear. Overall should be a good machine. Ask for a maintanence history and or ASIST history if possible. Hopefully that covers everything.
I have seen the paint before. If machine is still under warranty it may be covered. If not suggest making a friend at a body shop or compare price to repaint vs. replace.
Thank you! Thanks for your input on the questions I had. It has been a difficult task in finding a good unit.. And not knowing the specifics or history of the units performance it makes it a real task! I had spoke to the sales person who is a dealer for CASE and when I questioned him on the history and other specific question as you answered above he could not answer my questions in detail.. I was kinda perplexed that here os a sales person who bought this unit for resale and had asked him if they had any fluid testing done on this unit and he had said no... Now when I started digging for addtional information he had indicated it was a trade in, now how would a trade in be evaluated on what is a fair trade in value price? Would you think they would check out the unit before a price is determined if so, why would some of the questions I had asked you would be different? Sorry to be long winded but man it seems like I am dealing with a bag of rocks? I am not to sure if he thinks I am an idot for asking or have the money to purchase this unit... Well with the economy recession you would thinkhe would least over a fluid analysis to accomandate... I know most of you would tell me not to deal with this guy but is this what to expect from most sales guys....hiding the issues or avoiding? Thanks for your help snowcuda ! NOB
I have never spent any time on the sales side, always the service side. If the dealer was the original seller of the unit then I would suggest maybe talking to the serive manager to see what he has seen on the unit. Also if a salesman knows there has been some issues, he may try to steer you away. Everything I said was from my personal expirience and not all dealers may know the some of the history. If there is an undetermined look you would like them to inspect, have them reference bullatin NLB SB 002 05. I will email you a copy.
I went through the same BS. Basically, "here's your price, take it or leave it" was the 'tude I got. I asked about an oil analysis, too. They looked at me like I was nuts, like I was the first person to ever ask for one. I got treated like crap after the sale and wouldn't recommend my dealer for service after the sale to anyone, but I think I got a good deal pricewise and the financing through Case was very good, too. So I kind of pinched my nose and bought the machine. With only 1000 hrs and 2 years old I kind of figured the chances are good that it would be in good shape mechanically. They know if you're a small operator and they know you're a little guy so you get ignored. I even "threatened" to buy a Case/IH compact cab/4x4/utility tractor from them and they didn't treat me any different. IMO, 90% of equipment dealers salesmen make car salesmen look like choir boys.
I tried everything. First I tried emailing Case. After the 3rd email, they called me. The paint is out of warranty after 1 yr/1,000 hrs they told me. I asked for some "help" from the dealer, like sell me a new hood at your cost. "Nope". One flippin part at their cost, "nope". Will you paint my hood if I remove & replace the hood? "nope". Then the head sales mgr tried to act like he was my best friend. He said he'd "fight with Case" for me. yeah....sure. Then he asked if he could come look at the machine himself. That was a month ago. :Banghead They just keep wearing you down till you go away. I tell everyone I know to avoid them, hopefully that'll cost them a sale somewhere down the line. I still like my backhoe, the hood thing is annoying, but this kind of dealer service will get me to switch dealers next time around.
Well I can say a few good things about my dealer .Never had any service done there .The parts guy Is great helped me out a few times with different things. sals manager let me borror the service manual so I could get a copy instead of buying that $500 book. The only thing we could not do was a meeting of the minds on price for an '07 and my old machine.
Cat20, Jimmy B. the guy you deal with parts? He is an awesome guy, Ive known him since I was little and Id wait in line to deal specifically with him any day of the week. extremely nice guy and knows his stuff! Our case salesman is also the best salesman we've ever delt with out of all brands. Down to earth guy. We've become friends with him over time also and would deal only with him if it's our choice.
The guy in parts in woburn is John I went in to get some hardware for the window holder and he looked at the package and all I needed was that spring so he sent me into the rental side to get one out of there parts area . you don't know how many skimatics i asked for to try and trouble shoot problems .even a few years ago I had a problem with the machine shifting so I asked parts in shrewbery to send out a certain relay well they sent the wrong right one lol .
Thanks Duke Hello Duke, I do not want to beat a dead horse but why in the heck would you want to treat people like this is beyond my comprehension :Banghead Well at least I am not the only one running into this problem. I guess why larger comapnies you have the purchasing power to get there attention.. Yes, and you are correct in your last statment ""90% of equipment dealers salesmen make car salesmen look like choir boys."" Thanks, NOB
I deal with the Shrewsbury office. Alot of the old Goodall Tractor crew ended up there. I couldnt say enough good things about our parts guy and salesman there.
Ok, so here is how the Case Dealer Service Works: The dealer has say in what they want to repair and what they don't. If you are a small customer and they don't want to handle a small issue it is at their discretion. This is the same no matter what the product, whether it is construction equipment or your family car, the bigger buyers may get better service; this is a way of life no matter how you look at it. If you are unhappy with one dealer you are free to go to another. Personally I travel 150 miles to get my motorcycle service because I trust them and I get good service, this is how the world works. If and when a Case dealer submits a warranty claim it is still warranties discretion to pay or not. Depending on how the dealer words it and the mood of the warranty writer it may or may not be paid. Keep this in mind when asking a dealer for help. If he knows he is not going to get paid he may be a little harsher to you. The dealer has two main resources in the service area: 1. Asist, this is there as a technical service resource only. Basically there are experts that handle mainly one machine, i.e. backhoes. The dealer has the ability to submit and Asist concern on any machine and ask for help. If the dealer ever tells you that they cannot figure an issue out, ask to see the Asist concern. They may or may not show you one but make sure they have at least submitted one. It is a resource and they should use it. Asist does not have the ability to approve or deny warranty; they can only supply technical service. 2. The dealer also has a field service rep that calls on them. It is the service reps job to ensure the service department is following warranty procedures and is the eyes and ears of Asist. If you are having a major issue and are close to the shop, ask to talk to the PSM, Product Service manager/Field Rep, the next time he is at the dealership. Again it is at the reps discretion to approve or deny anything. Think of them as a live warranty person. Be nice and explain your position. They may or may not help you. Again the way of life. As a customer you also have a right to contact a customer service rep. Unfortunately I do not have this number right now. I will try to find out an let you know.
Snowycuda, Thanks. Yes, I tried all those channels. I was polite and professional. They sent the company field rep out and he took photos. One telling moment was when the company rep said to me "there isn't enough money in the sale of your machine to cover the cost of painting the hood", as if to imply that I got such a good deal and they made so little profit off me, that they would lose what little profit they made on me to repaint the hood. uhhh, yeah, OK. I was then contacted by the regional rep and he told me Case wouldn't do anything to help me. He was polite, but wasn't going to budge. :Banghead Then the sales manager tried to smooth things over with me. A real nice guy, even offered to come out and have a look, but that's the moment when I knew I was stuck with a hood with peeling paint. ointhead I hope you don't think I'm taking this out on you snowycuda, I really appreciate your help.
I know your not taking it out on me and I didn't mean to come accross as anoyed or that I snapped. I just wanted to let everyone know how the dealer service works and how you can hep yourself. Also keep in mind the dealership is in business to make money. Whether you agree with what you may think is a fair mark up or not, they still want to make as much money as possible. Same with any business. As promised here is the customer care line: 1-866-54CASE6 (1-866-542-2736) Customer Relations would be option #1
New England Case in Shrewsbury, great crew working there! No complaints with the service. They could of sold us a mini excavator but a different salesman at the time forgot to call us back with numbers. Owell, kubota has treated us well also.
funny you said that I had them come down a year earlier to check out my machine for trade in and they sent some one down but never got back to me with the trade numbers or new machine price . then when they did a year latter there number didn't work with what I had in my head lol . guess I won they lost still have a great machine and so do they . but thay are not making any $$ with there yet anyways .
Thanks for the response on the CASE 580 m backhoe Hello JS580L, Sorry that I had not responded to your thread to say thank you for your input! Everybody here has been a great help and the learning curve is starting to starighten out, but not quite yet...LOL Thanks NOB
Great info! :drinkup I don't have any Case equipment, but I'm sure the way you spelled things out goes for just about any dealer. Car, truck, equipment.... I'm sure that the above would apply. Thanks again....
if it helps, I think I might know the regional case service field rep. I was on pretty good terms with him when I worked for an ag dealer in S.E. PA. If case doesn't split their managers, he would be the guy. Let me know if I can help.
Ag and CE have differant service reps for Case
I dont know what kind of work you plan on doing, but a 580M is a lightweight. Light machine, small bucket, smaller tires. The work we do, we could probaly justify a 590 but a 580SL works just fine.
you should see the hole i dug with my 580L and the 6' round boulder it pulled out. granted i would of love to have a bigger machine but it did it just fine. the size was and I know i will get some head shakeing on this was 35x55 with a grade of 8'deep down to 15' because the property was all filled in and the soil would not suport a house so had to go down to the good stuff and fill in with structural stuff.
My 580M has an 8' bucket, same as a "big" machine. It's only a $170 upgrade. Case claims the 7' bucket feature is handy for loading over the 7.5' tailgate of most dumptrucks without spillage. It weighs 18,000lbs with nothing in the tires. The front & back tires are a little smaller. I think the biggest feature of a 590 over a 580 is the spread of the rear stabs and the bigger tires, especially the rear tires. The 8 more HP in the 590 must be negated by the machine's heavier weight & greater drag. I kinda like my backhoe with it's slightly smaller size and smaller stab spread. It's never really let me down in any way with its' smaller size, but it definately fits in tighter spots. If I wanted more weight, I'd just fill the tires and I'd be as much as a 590. I think the 580 feels like it's got more azz than the + or the 590. More power to weight ratio. All the service guys tell me the same thing.
My father said one of the things the cat he had couldnt do but the cases could was scoop the asphalt out of the truck. So truth be hold to that "claim." Ive run a 580M moving snow and we've rented them with hammers from sunbelt. I wasnt very impressed. The size hammer on the hoe should have been on a 580Super L/M. We could use a 590 but the more I think about it the less I like the idea. I like the manueverability and short width. A 580L was to small though. We have the extra heavy front end counterweight on ours and wouldnt go without it. Our 580 works as a dozer, loader, and excavator. Many times people have wondered why we dont have a loader or dozer. Many of times Ive heard "no way a 580 is gonna do that" and it did.
I hear that. The "kids" will routinely trash Case because it's not as big looking as a CAT, but it ain't their money and these Cases seem to get the job done.
Oh yeah. I'll take a Case any day only after a Dynahoe.
Case 580 Super D Hi, This is my first posting, this seems to be a first class forum. So glad to see Case mechanics and those with Case experience. I have a Case 580 Super D that backfires through the intake. Does anyone have experience with this model? Is there another thread more suitable? Thanks, Boots
I would suggest starting a new thread; "backhoe backfires through intake" and then describe your condition in your 1st post in the thread.
Welcome to the forum Boots:drinkup .We've got some good Case mechanics here. Have you pulled the valve cover off and checked for valve clearance, bent push rod, sticking or bent valve? I use an infra red gun on the exhaust manifold ports or you can use your hand, as the engine is warming up, to find a weak cylinder. Phil
Thanks so much, Actually I have done all that many times. It is the #3 cylinder and it backfires through the intake valve. I've done all the normal checks, called the mechanics, had the head rebuilt, still backfires, took the head off had them recheck their work, then had that guy's work checked out by another head repair shop. Head looks okay, camshaft moving all rockers almost identical. This is my third post, so maybe I should do as Duke suggested and start a new thread. Thanks
580sm stabilizers I have a 580sm/2 with the pilot controls,the stabilizers raise and lower at different speeds one being fairly slow,is there an adjustment for this,thanks
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums george39! :drinkup
590 sm series 2 hydraulic problem Hey guys, I am new to this forum. I own a 2005 590 sm series 2, it has 650 hours on it, bought it with about 600 hours. The steering and loader functions are weak. Have to rev the engine to lift or steer with a full bucket. Any ideas? By the way this forum is awesome, lots of info, Thanks
I just bought a 2007 580 super m+ it wont pull itself down the road in 4th and doesnt push as much as my 2006 super m does like in 1st or 2nd. When you shift into forward or reverse and step on the throttle it starts moving slowly and after 2 seconds takes off. I was wondering if its a tranny problem or horse power problem or if the m+ are just gutless because the extra weight.
It sounds like you have a problem delly. Powershift or Shuttleshift? How many hours on it?
4spd standard and 3900hrs I have used it for 4 days now.
Firstly check trans oil level - must be checked while idling. If the oil has not been changed in a long time :beatsme - it may pay to do so. There could be a problem with the modulator at the transmission control valve - I discuss it at this thread -
thanks alot
Case has been good to me, have had 4 case backhoes in my family. Love my super m. It's going in next month to get new Buschings in the rear of the back in April. The ride control is going to get looked at too. I have yet to buy the new n series. Tested them out, and it was great way nicer then my super m. Case 580sm
case 5800sm how's brent doin'g tell him hello tb
Snowy, my 590 SM series 2 back hoe is not liking to start in this cold weather. Should it have a glow plug? Where doni engage it if it does?
Snowycuda hasn't logged onto HEF in 14 years. I doubt you will get any help from him, No glow plugs. 580M's could have a cold weather assist kit on them. It is an ether injector. Or an electric block heater. Or neither of the two depending on what was put on it when it was new.