can someone please tell me why this notch is in the hub housing of my final drive . I'm fixing a bad oil seal and found this . also want to make sure its not going to be a problem when I get everything back together . thank you !
That is how they were made. My guess to act as a drain for water & leaking oil seals......
well I finally found my serial number stamped into my frame and I now know I am the not so proud owner of a 1974 case 450 . my question is to you armen or anyone that is feeling generous enough to answer me is , does anyone know a video or manual that will tell me step by step how to adjust my steering clutches and brakes . I have the service manual but it only tell you hoe to dismantle and assemble everything on the dozer . I want to see if just adjusting linkage may fix my problem before I come to the decision that I need new clutch or clutches . the problem im having is when I put the dozer in gear it wants to wander to one side and I find my self either stepping on the opposite brake or by putting one high low range lever forward and the other back . . I would greatly appreciate some advise . I also know that I can bring it to a dealer and they could diagnose it at 100 an hour but I also have to rent a trailer for a hundred a day to get it to them . if I have to I will but I would like to see if I can do anything first
Unfortunately, there are no adjustments that can be made for the steering clutches. You need to be more specific in your description, for any help. Is it when driving fwd low, that it veers? Which way? Will it drive straight in high? Is track tension even? Do the brakes function by neutralizing the transmission? Are brakes pedal heights equal when applied? When the oil is warm, at idle, does each side engage at the same time? Test both low & high ranges in fwd & rev.
that's a lot to think about . lol . its apart right now because I am replacing a oil seal . to the best of my knowledge it veers left in both high and low . the track tension is probably not equal so I will check that . the brake do function by neutralizing the transmission . the brake pedal heights are not equal . that's why I wanted to start with them . both sides do engage at the same time . why do the levers on the slave cylinders when applying the brakes move in opposite directions one lever and bolt push down and the other moves up . ? maybe ill have to send a video for you to understand what im talking about . its very hard to communicate what I mean by texting .
something new every day . evidently the dozer I have was equipped with a clutch cut out control valve . someone removed it at one time and now there is only a tee tying the two brake sides together . my question is , since their is no control valve , shouldn't the brakes be tied together separately . my head is spinning with this thing . I cant seem to bleed the left master cylinder and cant figure out why . sometimes the pedal get stiff and I think I got it, then ill lose flow to the slave cylinder and the pedal will go all the way down again . its making me crazy . there is no apparent leaks anywhere just cant seem to get all the air out
The brakes are meant to work individually, separate from each other.
so after reading instructions a hundred times , I finally think that I understand the whole procedure on putting my final drive back together . I didn't understand the whole shim thing and torque pressure but now I do . you don't want to much pressure or not enough pressure on the bearings . but why do they say to put the drain cover on the final drive while your setting the torque pressure . I will copy and paste what im talking about . I need a little help with this
this is the schematic
I wouldn't lose any sleep over the order of refitting the pan, you can do it before setting pre-load or after. I actually don't even remove it whenever I need to replace those seals ......
wow , great . that's what I thought . I actually was losing sleep . LOL. . I was like , what am I missing here ? thank you again very much . you have been a great help to me .
armmen , can you tell me how much of the tranny fluid do I have to drain to replace the pinion shaft seals . I know I have to pull the final drive housing and I don't know how high the fluid is .
Just drain it all. If the oil isn't very old, carefully drain it into clean containers & reuse it. Explain why you are pulling the final drive housing? I thought it was only the axle seal that was leaking??....
yeah , after I put the new seals in, with out the final drive pan cover on, I tighten the track and moved forward about 3 feet then backed up 3 feet ,when I looked at that side I just worked on, I noticed a small amount of tranny fluid dripping off of the bull gear from up above so I assume its the seal that separates the tranny to the final drive which is the pinion shaft . I think ? lol
if I didn't notice it it would be leaking into the final drive . never had any tranny fluid in the final drive though when I first drained it to work on . about a quarter cup came out in all . I now have it pulled apart again . I cant put it back together with that happing . I don't know if I caused it by that little bit of movement with out gear oil but maybe I did .
what do you think ?
....... about what?.....?? I've already answered this question - drain all the transmission oil. What did the old oil in the final drive look like? It should be heavy gear oil, was it thin looking? as if the transmission oil may have thinned it down?? If you do decide to pull the final drive, be careful of the spacer shims located between the final drive & the transmission housing. They are very expensive, so don't be tempted to drive a wedge in between them to separate the two. Clean the shims & the mating surfaces really well & reuse them. Prime with brake cleaner, allow to dry & use some Loctite 515 to seal the flange.
I wanted to know what you thought about the tranny fluid dripping down from above the bull gear . it must be a pinion shaft seal right ? and do you think its coincidence or did I cause harm by moving the dozer that little bit with no oil in the final drive ? . thanks for the heads up on shims .
well heres what I found , bad seal bad upper pinion shaft . everything else good . back at it .
heres the shaft , unbelievable that all the other gears are good
the guy that owned this thing before should have been shot
Unfortunately, with older machines, many people seem to feel they don't deserve to have money spent on them. That seal looks like the bevel gear was not running true. Were the bearings OK? Luckily those bull pinion gears are separate to the bevel gear on those early models.
all bearings seem good . no slop , smooth , no wear . what did you notice about the seal . I don't see anything unusual about it . other than it was not as flexible as it should be and you could tell it was just old and ready for new . how about that upper pinion shaft though . I still don't know how that could look so bad and all the other gears that joined it are perfect . amazing to me . I had a hell of a time getting the spanner nut off though , the threads were nulled on the nut not the shaft and could only turn it with a hammer and chisel 1/4 inch every three swings , what a bitch that was . that seal , you probably saw where I tried to tap it out the wrong way and bunt it a little
can you tell me what a welch plug is and what is its purpose ?
can these tools be improvised
Other names for a Welsh plug are expansion or casting plug. Commonly used in engine blocks & cylinder heads. Re those tools, the sliding parallels, you can use T gauge & micrometer. The tool for the pinion depth, cannot really be improvised, however a machinist can fabricate one if necessary. ....... are you thinking of playing with or replacing the pinion shaft inside the transmission now???
no but since I took it apart, I thought that I was supposed to do these things to make sure its put back right and adjusted properly . I guess I just over thought it .
once you pull all that stuff off , that pinion shaft inside the transmission just falls back . nothing holds it in until you put the shims and the shaft housing and bearing back on .
well Arman , I think I'm over my head in it now, UDATE .. I put everything back together and everything went very well besides waiting on parts . I was never able to fix the right break pedal adjustment . did everything I learned but the pedal still goes down a lot farther and doesn't work good like the left one . I was running her today and after it warmed up it seemed to work pretty good except for the pulling to the left . putting the left transmission lever on high and the left on low keep her moving more straight for what ever reason . after running it for awhile I noticed trans mission fluid coming from the control valve . I should have taken the time to see exactly where it was coming from but it was getting late . I just know now that I have a leaking control valve . I'm not sure I can handle this one . I want to bring it to the case dealer so they can put the flow meter on it and check it out but they are outrageously expensive . flow meter check alone is 400.00 and just to tell me what wrong . I keep praying that their isn't anything internally wrong with the tranny as I know that will be thousands of dollars . I guess ill have to bring it to them when I have the money and then decide if I want to dump it for what I can get . I guess the only question I have now is , is it hard to pull the control valve and rebuild it or maybe im better off just buying a good used one , either way is it a hard job ? thanks for your time .
Remove the seat, check your transmission oil level, top up if necessary, run the engine at idle. Click through all the gears & look at the transmission valve to see where it is leaking - likely it is just a hose. A flow meter test won't fix your leak.....
ok , did pull the seat and the oil seemed to be coming from the valve its self . im not sure yet but I didn't see a leaking hose , ill check again , it looked to me like it might be one of the piston seals but what do I know . after looking at the transmission color diagram it looks like the breaks are tied into the control valve . could this be my whole problem with the right break and the veering to the left … ?
On a 450, Brakes & the transmission control valve are rarely the cause of the tracking issue you are describing - but you never know Considering the age of the machine ..... & the lack of care it has been shown in the past....... I would think it will involve going deep inside the transmission to fix your problem. You may need some serious diagnostic help to figure it out.
this is the picture im looking at .
you were RIGHT ! after further investigation it was only a loose fitting . everything is fine now except for the pulling to the left . going to bring it to the local case equipment repair near me . thanks again for all your help .
Have you checked your track tension? Also have you checked your shift linkage making sure it is correct? Nice buck by the way.
track tension is good , I don't know how to check shift linkage . I don't think I have low gear on the right side . would that be a clutch . I got to have it checked out . its running good but it a pain to keep having to adjust the steering with the brake . also the right brake is messed up . doesn't work well at all and the pedal goes way down .