I have a 2000 or 2001 case 90xt skid steer.. with 2180 hours on it.. its a high flow machine. After running 3 to 5 minutes its shutting down. If I let it sit a few minutes it will fire up again and run for 3-5 minutes.. when it shutdown im gettimg these lights on... Im thinking its having a flow problem or overheating hydraulic fluid? I don't have a manual so don't know what the warning lights mean exactly.. The filters are a few years old maybe.. but only have 100 hours on them or so.. One thing I'm fixing to go check is that the fluid level is high enough with arms lifted up.. as a couple months ago I did rebuild lower cylinders... and maybe didn't get it topped off. Thanks in advance for any help.
I just checked.. when bucket is down its about 1 inch from top of sight glass.. and when its all the way up.. its about 1/2" above bottom of sight glass.
I think those lights are to be expected after the engine dies, they don't come on until the engine is nearly completely stopped, do they? You need to find out whether the engine is running out of fuel, or whether it's getting it's electrical power shut off, the two most likely things causing it to die, but start back up repeatedly. If you post a picture of your fuel injection pump, somebody can probably give you some real good advice on where to start. The lights are engine oil pressure, transmission oil pressure/temp? and parking brake(which is hydraulically released so that just means no hydraulic pressure). Don't those lights come on when you turn the key to "on" before you start the engine?
I’m pretty sure it has a RoosaMaster/Stanadyne Pump on it.. in which case it sounds like a broken flex ring problem..(clogged return connector) Remove ALL the fittings from the top cover of the inj pump & start the engine.. if it stays running that’s good.. while it’s running install the fittings 1 x 1 until it shuts down again.. Once it shuts down, there’s your problem.. It’s probably gonna be a clogged return connector.. clean it out and try again.. If it continues to shut down, the fix is to pull the injection pump off & have it repaired.. If it comes to that.. contact me & I can be of assistance.. Good luck.
Yeah was just gonna update... that yes those lights are supposed to be on.. idiot lights.. insert me.. lol Yeah I am talking to a buddy.. and i am trying to determine if there is air in system.. ill post a pic now of injection pump.. and look into what you are talking about thepumpguy.. thanks both for the rapid response!
where might the bleeder be on this system?
First pic.. is that used to bleed the system? Its the return line coming from all the injectors... but if i crack it open there.. will it add air since that line behind it feeds fuel from the lift pump? Or do they seperate them in that fitting?
Wow.. I was way off.. THATS a Bosch MW in-line inj pump..
To answer your questions.. No that’s not a bleed screw in the 1st pic.. it’s just a plug..
****.. that’s not an MW..
There should be a lift pump in that fuel system.. I would guess that that’s the problem.. Is there a hand primer on the lift/supply pump.??
Yes lift pump is just below what I thought may be the bleed screw... it does have a hand primer.. i took the fuel water seperator off and thought I'd try amd crank it to see how much fuel was coming from lift pump... it was squirting a pretty substantial amount.
I replaced the lift pump a few years ago... probably five years ago.. havent used it but 100 hours maybe 150 since
There are 2 major weak points in that system.. The supply pump and/or the overflow valve.. If the supply pump is bad, it won’t pump enough fuel UP TO the inj pump.. If the overflow valve is bad, it won’t hold enough fuel in the fuel gallery to feed the pumping plungers.. On the inj pump there’s a fuel IN and an OUT.. The ovflo is located on the OUT side.. it’s just a spring n ball fitting that holds fuel in the fuel gallery..
That system needs right at 25psi of fuel in the gallery to run correctly. That’s what the overflow should pop off at.. 1.5 bar
Ok.. im gonna look now.. how can you tell if that overflow valve is bad?
So.. this is on the back end of the injection pump.. opposite from the feed line.. i assume I would need to hook some kind of fittimg up to it to see what pressure its popping at or allowing? So probably gonma need a special tool... or can I get it at orielys or advanced?
A lot of times the spring will break.. & u can shake it to tell.. The “right way” is to plumb a gauge in the outlet to see what pressure is in the gallery.. & even at that, it’s a crapshoot at which 1 is bad.. it’ll just show the pressure is low.. I can push on the ball n spring w a pick/scribe & tell if it’s good or bad.. but that takes years to develop..
Sorry didn't post the pic of where the overflow is.. is it inside that fitting? So if I undo that fitting I will see a spring?
There’s a name plate on the side of the inj pump.. it’s best if u can get the 10 digit pn 0 402 ... ... & contact your local fuel shop for an overflow valve.. I blew up the Cummins pn off the gov.. 3930148. THAT will cross to the Bosch pn.. Yes.. that looks like it.
Gotta run.. good luck
Does this die even if it's sitting there idling for five minutes? Does it die faster if it's working hard? How many times has it died now? never runs past five minutes? If it runs five minutes, dies, then you let it sit half an hour, does it start up right away like nothing is wrong? or take several long cranking sessions? If it starts right up, I'd go to the electrical side, if it has an external shut off solenoid on the injection pump, then pull that in and hold it with a zip tie or wire, and see if it runs past five minutes. That will eliminate everything on the electrical side, IF it has an external shut off solenoid.
It seems pretty random.. and will die while sitting still.. and it may run only a few minutes or 15.. its really random.. and i haven't noticed a specific time frame for it startimg back up either.. ill have to look and see if I can see a shut off solenoid.... the last time it lasted like 15 or 20 minutes I was loading and moving buckets full of stone.. so working hard doesn't seem to effect it.. its just random.
How's the electrical on the machine. Are you keeping 12V at shutoff solenoid? And does solenoid release when it shuts down or is it still activated?
I dont even know where it is.. fixing to go look for it.. one other thing.. when it dies I can crank it and it sounds like its running till I release the key from start to just on position it stops.. or thats the way it seems..
Is that it just below the throttle linkage?
Never mind think I found it.. this is on the inside of the pump closest to the block.. so guess I'll zip tie it one i start it to hold it
oh.. and it always fires right up after sitting.. doesnt have to crank. Its has died maybe 10 or 12 times while I am messing with it working it..
Other versions of that engine with an inline injection pump like that are known for the solenoid failing. It has three wires, one ground, one "run", and one that only comes on with the starter to pull the solenoid in, then the run coil holds it in. A coil getting hot, and failing to hold it in fit's your symptoms. Try the zip tie even if you have to find an Asian Midget to do it. Or replace that solenoid ( or test the electrical for the "run" coil getting voltage, but it starts when cold, so I'll guess it's getting voltage unless there's another coil that's week in a relay controlling that solenoid, doubt it)
Interesting... one other thing I think I forgot to mention..is that if I immediately try to restart it... and it won't fire up.... but if I hold the key in start position it sounds like its running just fine... as long as I hold in start.. the way you describe the wiring that makes sense..
The white wire going to the fuel shut-off solenoid on the fuel injection pump can break at the connector or in the insulation near the connector. Look for that. Ive also seen the injection pump be replaced and the cold start advance was swapped with the shutoff solenoid so when it got up to temp it would engage the shutoff solenoid and then would not start until temp went back to below a certain amount. So if there was no work done involving removing those wires, it could be shorted or have an electrical problem to those circuits acting like that.
Gotcha.. i ran it today till it stopped opened the cab and had my son watch while I cranked it.. and it would run.. let go to on position and it drops.. so gater its getting warm its failing.. looking for the part as we speak.
You will need 87420952 solenoid and tow of J991132 bolt. The solenoid changes numbers and mounting bracket is attached to solenoid now, the new bolts are just a tad longer than the old ones to accommodate the thicker plate.
Yes sir.. thank you.. got the part and bolts yesterday.. started taking old one out.. the bottom bolt on the old bracket is a pain in da rear to get to.
Damn... do you know if just the dust boot is replaceable.. it tore tryimg to get it in.
Probably not, how's the old boot
It has a tiny hole in it.. probably gonna have to reuse it
Yeah?they make a?new boot for $60 the old ome it is folks! Thanks for all the help and advise.