2007 cat 140H cca02481 6000 hours Fault codes 0300271.05 0360549.02 3 days after purchasing this beautiful grader . I started having transmission issues. Lost 3-4-8 and Fault codes led to low voltage on solenoid 5. Changed solenoid, didn't help. Changed cartridge, didn't help. Brought it to a shop they said it was ECU. Changed ECU and fixed gear lose. But now after $11000 went back to work and now have parking brake light flashing in gear. I wish I could just take it back and might have to but was not impressed with some of the work they did. Seems if I put it in park and rev it up take it out of park the light stops flashing. Then will randomly come back mid push. Once again thank you to all helping folks like me chase their stupid f@#$&+g dreams.
The machine main harness goes through the articulation point of the machine. If any of the clamps that secure it to the frame are missing or broken. Then you likely have broken wires. It's also possible that the wires are broken even if your clamps are intact. That is worse case scenario. I would plumb a gauge into the park brake and see if you are dropping pressure when the light comes on. Best case scenario is a failing solenoid.
What you also need to consider is that there was an upgrade on the transmission control valve to assist in preventing failures of #7 clutch. That upgrade was before your machine (around machine CCA02187, transmission EBD04459-Up) ) and it used different clutch pressure settings to the unmodified machines. Set up a transmission using the wrong pressure test specifications and you could be in for a world of hurt. Attached the troubleshooting procedures for your two Diagnostic Codes. At first glance neither of them are related to your flashing park brake light. Either way you need to fix them. I'll send you an electrical schematic. You'll probably need one.
Please post a photo of the light that is flashing, just to eliminate all doubt. Better still, which one of the illustration below is it.? I'm guessing #8.?
Have inspected articulation area all clamps are present and harness cover is all intact. Looks healthy, but inspect closer today. Thank you
Do you have any way of tapping a pressure gauge into the supply line to the park brake to check what the actual pressure is in the system when the light is flashing.? Maybe the light is flashing for low air pressure.? IIRC the light going off is linked to the signal from a pressure switch.
Do you have any way of tapping a pressure gauge into the supply line. Will figure a way of doing that today. The machine itself holds air really well. Also doesn't drag at all when I coast. I realize this could still be the issue so will do that. Will drain park brake too.
I think it would be a good idea to make sure that the light isn’t coming on because of a lack of air pressure before starting to chase possible wiring faults.
From your other thread. Better to keep it all in one place I think. First thing I would suggest is to get hold of an infra-red non-contact thermometer, then you will be able to quote actual temperatures rather than your impressions of how hot things are. This will help. Any black exhaust smoke at all, excessive or otherwise.? Does the amount of smoke change when the engine gets hotter.? Have you been into the air filters at all.? What do they look like and/or what does the filter restriction indicator say.? Do you have any idea when the engine last had a valve adjustment check/set.? Next thing after checking the air pressure in the parking brake circuit (see above) might be to check the turbo boost.
Confirmed the park brake light in the Monitor Panel is operated on/off by a pressure switch. Effectively the monitor looks for continuity to machine frame ground via the park brake switch on wire 419 Yellow. When the pressure in the park brake circuit rises above +/-90psi the switch closes. The other side of the park brake pressure switch is connected to ground via wire 201 Black. As soon as the Monitor Panel "sees" ground on 419 YL that is the signal for it to turn off the park brake "ON" light.
Ok thank you Nige. I will delete the other thread. So I found the sensor with the 419 wire on it. Removed it and put a pressure gauge on it. Seemed to be getting similar pressure to cab gauges. Swapped the sensor with a different one on the machine and the problem followed the sensor. Bought new sensor will replace tonight. Thank you so much Nige.
Glad I could help. Please come back and let everyone know if that definitely fixes the problem. EDIT: Above you said "swapped the sensor with a different one". Do you mean you swapped the Park brake pressure switch for the main air system pressure switch, because the two switches are both the same Part Number.?
As for the fuel issue. It hardly smokes no matter the condition. Air filters are good and indicator shows zero resistance. I do not know when the valves were adjusted last. So more on this problem. It's hard to narrow down cause it won't do it till it's really working. Then I get on the highway to take it to my house and it runs like a top as soon as it touches the asphalt. I originally thought it was the new fuel filter I put on cause it was a Baldwin and the o ring wasn't as thick causing the housing and the metal part of the filter to touch. Figured it wasn't sealing right. Put a cat filter on and it fixed the problem 30%. Then I proceeded to throw parts at it... Only thing left is the hand primer which is likely due anyways. What strikes me as odd is how great it runs for the first few hours. I can say with confidence the engine is up to operating temp in the first 30 mins in this stuff. The reason I'm asking about the hot fuel is that sump design really only cycles the fuel in the sump not through the tanks. It's safe to say somewhere in this graders previous life it got burried up to its teets in a swamp. I've keep cleaning the sump and under the engine and finally getting it hoping that solves it. Even between the hyd pump and the frame was right full thinking the heat is just compounding. Bare in mind I come from more of the operator side, so grain of salt... Thank you everyone.
By the sounds of the mud you have removed so far from underneath the engine, the sooner you get it completely cleaned the better.
These machines have a sealed fuel cap and vent the tanks through a small hose on the right hand side. You should probably check that it's not bunged up in the **** under the engine.
This is the location on the RH fuel tank that the vent hose CMark referred to above comes from.
Managed to get her to work a full shift but not without its wobbles. Parking light gone and no lights all day. Cleaned out all the dirt I could reach last night and definitely helped cause I made it past lunch and it was warm here today. Then my hydraulic system started whinning. Pressuring the tank and hot. (Apparently I need to learn all the systems before I get one check out of her .) Which may or may not have finally caused my lower power issue to come back. Looked for vent line and all I could find was a small line that led to sump. I will note I have tried popping the cap when it's acting up and have never observed any type of vacuum pressure. Also tried running with lose cap and did not help. Once again thank you guys
Is there a hydraulic temp gauge (or just a warning light for high hyd temp) on your machine.? You really need that infra-red thermometer sooner rather than later.
Definitely no gauge and didn't have any lights flashing. Working on thermometer. Unfortunately I've been 3 steps behind ever since this thing came into my life, and my dirt project is ridiculously behind.
Sorry Nige, none of that is your problem. Your right I will track one down tomorrow. I can't tell you and others on here how much I appreciate your assistance, and your prompt response. People I pay don't respond that quickly.
Everything so far has been firefighting to a certain extent. Do you have an Operation & Maintenance Manual for the machine.? if not did you know that you can download a pdf copy for $49. Maybe the best money you'll ever spend.
I do have O&MM and have read it. It's given me some guidance. Pulled the panels off this weekend and had next to no issues. First world problems, third world solutions . Still has a miss every now and then but if I stop for a minute it will it works itself out. Originally once this problem started getting it to clear was impossible. Until I went down the road. Just bought a thermometer, will gets some readings today. I once had a skid steer that would do this on really hot days. Ended up being fuel shot off solenoid. Is that a possible culprit? I know these ones require power to shut off but just wondering? I hit a bad bump on the high way and was almost wearing my ass for a hat. The motor lost all power for about 5 seconds then came back, possibly related? Thanks again everyone.
Will put panels on for temp readings
A poor electrical connection somewhere.?
Temperatures: Sump 131F Both fuel filters 145F Issue seems to almost be gone, just sounds a bit off sometimes. Feels like it has all power.
131F = 55 DegC. 145F = 63 DegC. Nothing in those numbers would worry me too much when you consider that the normal operating temperature for the engine coolant is around 90 DegC or 185F. If I'm honest I would have expected the engine oil pan to be much warmer than 55 DegC.
Oh that's fault, when I say sump I mean the fuel sump. The section of the frame infront of the diff. Seems to progressively be getting better maybe just need some patients. There's a service chart on the back side of the door and it did most of its hours before 2010. So works out to an average of 110 hours a year over the last 12 years. I'm on my 4th tank so you would think any old fuel should be long gone. Thanks again
I’m having difficulty visualizing what you’re talking about, it doesn’t sound like the fuel tank. Try posting a photo of what you’re looking at.
Will do tomorrow. On this grader both tanks, fuel suction line, return line, and that small vent line on RH tank are all plumbed into a section in the frame infront of the diff. I was referring to it as a sump, likely not the proper terminology. I assumed all of the H's with saddle tanks had this design? But I've never had this problem with an H so I haven't looked that closely.
It's possible I'm delusional with this whole hot fuel thing but I've never felt a fuel filter that was that hot before cause generally the fuel cycles through the entire system not just a little square box that's attached to a trans axle setup. I know you don't want cold fuel either, but if this issue persists my next logical approach will be to plumb return line into LH tank. At least for the summer.
I don't know about your machine, but there are trucks that use fuel to cool the computer.
The ECM on this engine is cooled by the fuel. As a result the fuel will be far warmer than you might expect. For that reason it's important not to run the tank way low on fuel, generally not below 20% under any circumstances. I'm guessing when you speak about the "sump" you're referring to the fuel manifold.?
Thanks again fellas. I have chased every fuel line on this machine and haven't noticed them go near the ECM. Don't even want to know how that works. From what I have found on the internet is this. Cat ECM's will adjust timing up 160F fuel temp. Alot of different threads claiming misses or pinging near or above on 160F on different diesel engines. Fuel coolers are definitely a thing. I would say my readings from yesterday are lower than they were in the past based on my efforts for heat disappation. To me this particular design is equivalent to running 20% or less fuel based on the area it's cycling and the components it's touching or near. I know there's fresh fuel coming in but not at the same rate the return would be pushing. I'm assuming this machine has an underlying issue, but can't seem to trace. There is certainly no similar issues for H's on the internet. For what it will cost, going to reroute return to LH tank for experimental purposes.
Maybe fuel temp sensor isn't giving the ECM proper reading?
On this type of engine, where the fuel is used for cooling the ECM, I would not regard your fuel temps as being excessive. These ECMs generate HUGE amounts of heat. Try running with full fuel tanks and see if the temps change at all; they might come down by a few degrees. A lot depends on ambient temperatures also. Take a look on your Monitor System Panel in the cab. Is the SERV CODE icon lit up - apart from the self-test when you first turn on the key of course.? If not then it is unlikely the fuel temp sensor is giving erroneous readings.
Display panel says Serv code but since new ECU only has those 2 codes I originally posted. This morning I unplugged the fuel temp sensor, and the lock clip was bent down so it came out very easy. Tried to bend clip out very lightly and snap obviously. Like I said mostly operator. So plugged back in and wrapped hay wire through and around filter housing. Temp fix I swear. Runs perfect! So here's to hoping.
Maybe a new fuel temp sensor is in your future after all.....
You were right Nige. Wasn't the sensor afterall, issue came back that after noon. Was extremely hot, took more temp readings on filter housing and return line they were over 160F. Finally got mad enough to re route return line into tank. Lowered fuel temps by 20 plus degrees all around. Waited a few days to confirm it actually fixed it and ran flawlessly for 3 days. $32 repair. As I've said before I must have an underlying issue but I strongly feel this design doesn't help. Thanks again everyone, love this forum.