We have a 143 H at work it doesn't go into first through forth in ether forward or reverse and am wondering if anyone may have a starting point as to where to look its a state forestry grader so its lightly used only has 3700 hours on it it never alarmed on me till I got back to the shop with it the other day and I only realized the light going off when I made it back any help would be great thank you in advance for the help
Are you sure about the speeds you're missing.? The reason I ask is that missing 1-4 in forward and 1-3 in reverse would all point at clutch #7 because it is used for all those gears. Post a Serial number when you reply please. It makes finding the correct technical information easier. Quick & dirty check. Pull the transmission dipstick....... 1. Is the oil black.? 2. Does it smell burned.? 3. Is the level correct as per the marks on the stick.?
Trans oil is clean not burnt and the right level. I'll get that on SN on Tuesday when I am back at work. I am pretty shore its 1-4 on both sides Ill have to check that too when I am there. can I get the codes for it with out hoking computer to it I had see some of the other posts in the grader forum about it I think one was a 140H and the other was a 143H if I can I'll get them Tuesday too
Clean oil is a good indicator of potentially an electrical problem with the engagement of #7 clutch. Burned/black oil would most lkely indicate a clutch failure (transmission out time). As I said above the only fly in the oitment is if your comment regarding 4th gear reverse is correct that blows the #7 clutch theory out of the water. #7 clutch is only used for 1-4 forward and 1-3 reverse. It's the lower half of the range in both directions, remembering there are 8 forward speeds in the transmission but only 6 reverse speeds. Dunno without having a S/No to check what the procedure is for getting Codes. I suspect it might need a Click Box. There is a thread on that in the Shop Talk forum and it is possible to McGyver something with nothing more than 2 pieces of wire and a couple of electrical connector pins.
Thank you Nige I will look at both when I get back to work. When I pulled the stick after it the oil wasn't hot or what I thought to be over heated
Here's a link to the Click Box thread. From memory I think the instructions on how to Mcgyver one are on Page 3 or 4. HeavyEquipmentForums
So long as it is clear & bright that suggests there is a strong possibility the problem is electrical and external.
the last few posts explain how to retrieve the codes HeavyEquipmentForums
Hear is the build plate i am letting it warm up a bit before I try and see about the speeds on the trans
Just checked it it is 1 to 4 forward and 1 to 3 in reverse
OK, that makes far more sense. From what you posted before (oil not black, no burned smell - can you check that again plaease, especially the smell of the oil) it sounds like it could be something electrical failing to activate the #7 clutch solenoid. Below is an illustration of the transmission control valve that is on the left side of the transmission. The 8 solenoids are mounted on the front (cab) side of the valve. Solenoid G (Ref 7) is for the Low Range clutch. This gives you speeds 1-4F and 1-3R. Solenoid H (Ref 8) is for the High Range clutch. This gives you 5-8F and 4-6R. What I'd suggest is the following: - 1. Disconnect solenoids 7 & 8 from their respective electrical connectors. 2. Exchange the solenoids of valves #7 & #8. The solenoid can be removed without the need to remove the valve body simply by taking off the big nut #2 on the end (see below) and slide the coil off the shaft. 3. After exchanging the solenoids reconnect the electrical connectors to the appropriate solenoids - Don't cross them.
Is it solenoid G and H or H and D because its now missing different gears in both forward and reverse I know that they can do things different on different equipment the grader now seems to be doing the same thing as one in another post is doing
If moving the solenoid from G to any other position has now caused different gears to go missing then the solenoid you removed from #7 (G) is bad. As a final check put the solenoid coils back where they were originally but leave the electrical connector for Coil #7 disconnected. Are you still missing 1-4F & 1-3R..? If the answer is yes then you need a 301-3118 Coil Assembly. Should be about $30 from the dealer.
In forward I dont have 3,4,8 and in reverse I dont have 3,6 now
Out of interest which gears was it missing.? EDIT: Sorry, answered above. That's no power to #5 clutch.
I'll let you know hear after a bit when I get back to it
You're right. I was going off a diagram posted on another thread that I was sure was the right one. The low and high range clutch solenoids on your transmission are D & H. As a check. You should have four identical solenoids in the inside row of the control valve closest to the transmission - #5, 6, 7, & 8 in the diagram above. In the outside row the bottom solenoid #4 should be the same as the four on the inside row. The three above it should be identical but different to the other five. Based on that solenoid H should be the bad one.
Alright I moved the bad one back to where it was and it moved back to 1 to 4 F and 1 to 3 R so I am going to say its the solenoid
And yep there are two different types in the block in the configuration you stated above thank you for the all the help these last fue days when we get the new one and put it in I'll let you know how it turns out thank you again
If you're replacing a coil, I recommend you replace them all. They're not expensive and when they fail, they can sometimes take out the transmission ECM.
And if you do that you should remember that the coils are not all the same Part Number. There are 5 x 301-3118 and 3 x 323-9531.
I'll suggest that to them but its the state of PA so I am not shore how far that will go thank you
Piut it to them this way. 8 solenoids - somewhere around $200. Replacement time maybe a couple of hours tops. A replacement transmission ECM if it gets fried due to a bad $30 soilenoid - $2,750 exchange or $3,650 new. Plus the dealer service call labour to do the software install on the (blank) replacement - total spend say $5,000 in round numbers. As Clint Eastwood would say "D'ya feel lucky punk.?"
Yep yep I understand but its hard to say what the people in charge will say haha there's 3 or 4 poisons above me who make the decisions I will do everything I can to get them but its on them as to if it happens
Alright I want to say thank you to everyone for the help we ended up buying all the coils for it and I got them put on yesterday and it fixed the problem when I get to the high rang coil it was stuck on the shaft and I just touched the wires and they broke off but the bosses ended up letting us get all of them so there all new on it aging thank you for all the help and have a great day
Always nice to hear a success story. Too few peoiple ever come back and update how repairs went. Have a good weekend and happy grading.....!!
Hello everyone I am back with another problem with this grader. It just started dropping 2nd gear in forward and reverse when the grader is under load it will shift into 2nd and go down the road till you put under a load. Any help would be apprehended
As a first step check the colour/smell of the oil and pull the suction screen to check for particles.
It has fresh oil and new filter but I will check it tomorrow. I will have to find the suction screen tomorrow. When I pulled the filter out of the can there was a git of glitter in the bottom.
Regarding the screen(s) I can’t guarantee that this attachment is 100% the same as your machine but I think it is. Take photos of whatever you find in the screens. L The glitter is not good news.
I got the screen out and there was nothing in it wiped the magnets off and there was just a light amount of stuff on it. I went back to the clutch valve body and took a close look at all the coils. Coil E had the wires that looked to have a bit of heat and mice damage we replaced it and took care of the problem. Thanks for the help it really helped
The lack of particles straight away removes the possibility of a burned up clutch, directing you to the electrical/control system where you found the problem. Diagnostics 101.