Finally had some time this weekend to begin the rear main seal replacement on the Cat 225 LC with 3304 engine, question for Cat guys, does the coupler look to be in decent shape, is there a way to check for play or anything besides visually inspecting the rubber inserts? also does the whole coupler come off as one piece when I remove the allan head bolts? some pics below
What is the SN of your machine?
76u03957
Hey Danny, looks like you're making progress on the old girl. Is that an old Jubilee in the background?
I'm getting there, it's actually been enjoyable believe it or not, that is a Jubilee in the one picture, it's my fathers, he has 2 of them
There's no real mystery about the coupling. If the rubbers looks soft or cracked then replace it. There is a classic part available for around $100. It's fastened on by the two 12-point bolts through the rubbers. The ring of cap head bolts fasten the adapter plate to the flywheel.
FWIW and considering the amount of work required to get in there in the first place I would spend the $100 and replace the flexible part of the coupling anyway.
Hmm, I thought all 225's with the 3304 had a 2 pump setup? That looks to have the same pump setup as my 51U2607.
225 pumps etd66ss, I believe it is the two pump set up. Danny
here are some better pics of the rubber inserts on the coupler
Thanks for the info Cmark, I'm definitely going to take the advice from you and Nige and order the classic part, the book is not to clear or "i'm not to bright" the book makes it sound like the coupler is attached to the adapter plate???? should I just remove the coupler by removing the two 12-point bolts you mentioned or remove the cap head bolts that holds the adapter plate on and they will come off together? Thank You. Danny
Isn't that a pump in the center? Anyways, thx for the pics!
Well, if you're replacing the coupling you will have to remove it from the adapter plate at some point and it will be easier to loosen the two bolts whilst the adapter plate is still fastened to the flywheel. You will then need to remove the adapter plate for access to the flywheel bolts.
ok now I understand, thanks
yes, thats the gear type pump, so I guess it has three pumps technically. I believe the gear pump is just to send oil to the pilot system, the two axial piston pumps control everything else, boom,bucket,stick,track motors,swing motor etc What does your machine have?
Aren't "classic" parts a cheaper version? I'd check if the "premium" version is available and the price. I don't like to trust cheap grades of rubber to last in a hot oily area.
Three hundred and odd dollars where I am. As always with this kind of decision, you have to balance the cost against how much work the machine is going to do against the consequences of a failure. In this particular case, I personally would go for the classic part.
I can't argue with that. And I suppose it's not a part that's likely to fail suddenly either.
Exactly. And if the rubbers do fail it will still drive off the bolts. You would just notice a rattling noise when the engine stops and maybe some vibration.
Mine has 3 pumps: http://www.acmoc.org/bb/attachment.php?attachmentid=58069&d=1456023466 http://i.imgur.com/55Gfpwb.jpg Not the greatest pictures, but you can see my center pump in the second picture.
Strictly speaking the only pumps that count are the main implement pumps because they supply the oil for the machine functions. The pilot pump in the centre simply supplies oil to the pilot system and not to the implements. Therefore in the case of the OP's particular excavator it would be correctly described as having a 2-pump implement hydraulic system, despite physically having 3 pumps mounted on to the pump drive box.
Looks like you got some kind of leak going on also
Thanks Nige for the explanation, don't some of the 225's have a one pump system? I hear they are not as desired, is this true?
etd66ss, I was referring to the pic of your pump, looks like oil is leaking from somewhere
I have a bunch of issues with my 225 I am working on this summer, leaks included. 1) Seized pins & bushings: http://imgur.com/a/5XNFq 2) Cooling issues: http://imgur.com/a/UxGTA http://imgur.com/a/92mJo http://imgur.com/a/0GrQQ 3) Head scratching engine mounting issues: http://imgur.com/a/C6yiC I did just get a new power washer last weekend, so am in the process of cleaning up the machine. I'll try to fix leaks wherever I find them. I think there are a lot of hardened O-rings & seals all over the machine that need replacing.
I hear ya, luckily the 225 I just purchased looks like it was well taken care of, besides a few leaks, "rear main seal,bucket cylinder, travel pedal seals, and swivel seals" the rest of the machine seems to be in great shape. I must say, I'm really enjoying working on the machine and getting to know it, it's my first excavator. I literally searched for years to find a 225 LC with the 3304 4cyl and two pump set up.
After looking at other 225's, I realize mine was well taken care of too. I've already dug 3 ponds with it and logged 10 acres of land, it's just time I do some repairs I have been putting off for a few years...
Here are some pictures from when I bought the machine in 2006: http://imgur.com/a/sM8kJ When I bought it, it had 5830 hours on it, however it is not the original CAT hour meter, it's a Hobbes meter, so I have no idea on the true hours. I was told by the previous owner there was ~1600 hrs on the CAT meter when it broke, but he could say anything and who knows, why would an hour meter break at 1600 hours... I think now the meter reads ~6200 hours (I'd have to check, going from memory). So I have put about ~370 hours on it since I got it in 2006. About 3 years before I bought it they replaced the 3208 with a rebuilt engine, rebuilt the main pumps, and bought new CAT chains, all the bottom rollers, 2 carrier rollers and one idler. At the moment I have one idler that was welded up and turned but it is kind of a mess and 2 carrier rollers are almost gone. The rest of the UC will last my lifetime.
looks pretty nice, are any of the parts they replaced 3 years before you bought it worn out? if so, how is that possible after only putting a few hundred hours on it? any pictures of it digging the ponds you did? here are a few pics of my machine, it has 10,360 hours and still ticking on the original cat hour meter, not sure if anything has ever been done to it, engine, pumps etc. I do know the chains aren't original, they say Berco on them. Danny
Nope, so far so good. I have way too many pictures of my projects at my land to sort through, but here is a collage I made a while back to show my project and equipment I have used at my lot. http://i.imgur.com/iXMdzJz.jpg I'm gearing up to build my house on the lot now, and I want to get my 225 & D6C in good running order, hence the reason I am digging into both of them.
Looks like a beautiful piece of land, how may acres, and are the ponds you dug on the property fed by a spring? is that an island in the middle of the pond?
63 acres total. The ponds are watershed filled, and the soil sandy loam + silty clay. I lined the ponds with the clay from on site, but the pond water level does fluctuate through the year. About 18 inches drop from spring to fall. There are no springs in my area. Where my land is was the bottom of Lake Ontario 12000 years ago, so it's a lot of sand an a lot of rounded stone & gravel etc. And yes, that is an island in the center of the big pond. The ponds are about 1.33 acres in total area, I dug about 18 ft deep, just about before I hit bedrock at 19-20 ft. The 225 did its job...
Ok, had some time tonight after work so I removed the coupler, my questions is, how the heck do I remove the adapter plater from the flywheel? I removed the bolts and it won't budge, frozen on there it seems, any tricks besides the puller they show in the book? thanks for any help. Danny
Try giving it a few taps on the face with a hammer to loosen the rust, and maybe a little heat. You might have to rig up some kind of crosshead to the coupling bolt holes with a spacer to push off the centre of the flywheel.
Thanks Cmark, I'll give that a try and report back. Danny
Homemade puller Hello everyone, during a break in the rain today I made a puller to try and remove the adapter plate. I took two pieces of flat steel and welded a nut in between them, used the coupler bolts with washers in there original threaded holes, then used a long bolt to run through the welded nut, can you guys chime in and let me know if what I made will work?? "see pic below" it got to dark and I need to find a spacer to put against the flywheel for my bolt to push against before I could try it out. Thanks guys and gals. Danny View attachment 154558
Invalid attachment, but it sounds like it.
Don't know if it will work (perhaps a little lightweight?) but it's definitely the kind of thing that should work.
Thanks for the response Mitch. I don't know why that happens with pictures sometimes, I uploaded another pic, can you view it now? Danny
Thanks Cmark, I didn't have any thicker steel on hand if thats what you meant by lightweight. I just wanted to make sure I had the concept correct. Should I heat up the whole face of the adapter plate when I try to pull it? Thanks Danny
I would suggest that heat may actually make things worse, I can't tell for sure from the picture, but there's got to be a pilot and bore situation there somewhere. Expansion may make things tighter?
I'm learning as I go lantraxco, so I'll let the professionals answer, but Cmark had mentioned heat in post #35 there are 8 bolts that hold the plate to the flywheel "they are removed" if that paints a better pic Danny
Yep, I can see that one, It looks similar to one I have, made by Snapon, that'll pull hell off the hinges. I doubt you are using the same grade of steel, but try it. If it fails, make the next one heavier.
I'm gonna give it a go in the morning, this thing seems to be on there pretty darn good, hopefully I have some luck. thanks Danny
Ummm... can't you just use the two bolts that thread into the adapter plate as pushers, put some strain on them and whack it with the MFH? (middling size deadblow) or is there something under them like flywheel bolts?
The flywheel bolts are there.
I would try spaying some penetrate around the out side of the plate and maybe a little through the hole in the middle to get some at the back side. Put a little tension on the puller and tap a bit with the MFH and it might pop loose. A bit of heat might also work, yes plate will try to expand but then when it cools back down it will shrink back just a bit and let the penetrate seep in. Just be careful when heating as the oil and penetrate are flammable. Have good extinguisher handy just in case.
Heat the whole thing up then hit the inside part of the plate with a CO2 fire extinguisher to hopefully shrink it and pop it out ...?
Al right boys, hold my beer and watch while I light this fuse here...
Well it's not going so good, Cmark was right about my puller,"a little light weight" so I found a puller in dad's garage, even with a ton of pressure on the puller and letting PB Blaster soak for hours still no luck, it almost looks like there is a ridge between the adapter plate and the flywheel, could rust build up that much? it looks like it's machined?? I'm out of acetylene "just my luck" so I can't try heating it, is heat usually needed Nige? With the amount of pressure I have on the puller and half a gallon of PB Blaster I thought something should have budged. Thanks everyone for all the advice. Danny
Heavier duty puller Here are some pics, after looking again the little ridge I mentioned looks like it is part of the adapter plate. I still can't get over how tight this thing is on there, don't know if you can see it in the pics, but the washers on the puller are starting to bend. Thanks again everyone. Danny
Your puller setup can't really be bettered. You're going to have to warm the flywheel up and smack the face of the plate with a hammer. It will come eventually.
Thanks Cmark, hopefully after work I can get the acetylene tank filled and put the blue tool to it, it's really my last option at this point, are they usually on this tight??
Can't say from personal experience, but if Caterpillar reckoned you needed a puller to remove it when the machine was new, thirty-odd years worth of rust won't have made it any looser, that's for sure!
I wonder if the trick that works for threaded fasteners might work for this as well..? Get some heat on the area around the joint between the flywheel and the adapter then try to melt some candle wax into it by touching a candle to the steel. The wax ought to wick into the gap. Obviously this will only work at the bottom so you will have to repeat the process a few times turning the engine in between.
Well it's raining again here in NJ, I'll resume tomorrow after work. Nige, how does the melting of candle wax on threaded fasteners actually work?? Btw, I was reading your thread about trains, where my sister's house is, in western Maryland "Mt Savage/Frostburg area" the Western Maryland scenic railroad goes right by it, it's a former C&O 2-6-6-2 No. 1039 the Baldwin Locomotive Works built it in 1949, it was the last commercial steam locomotive built for use by a railroad in the USA. The train is currently having boiler tubes installed that were shipped from Germany, it's the coolest sight seeing it chug through the mountains. Danny
Raining in NJ... say it ain't so....lol
I think it's capillary action, similar to what happens with soft (lead) solder on copper pipes. You get the copper hot then touch the stick of solder to it and as if by magic the solder gets drawn into the joint. That would make sense to me but I am not 100% sure that's how it works. The candle wax trick definitely works on threaded fasteners, there's no reason why the wax wouldn't wick into the gap between the plate and the flywheel in theis case.
Raining in NJ... say it ain't so....lol Hey zbo2, it seems like there is no end in sight with all this rain/thunderstorms, kinda like the adapter plate I'm trying to remove from the Cat 225, haha Danny
Makes sense to me Nige, just got home from work, gonna go put some heat on the adapter plate. I'll report back and let everyone know how it went, "Fingers Crossed" Danny
Well, the heat did not work. I tried just heating the flywheel outer edge best I could with no results, then I tried heating the face of the adapter plate with no luck, tapping on the face of the plate and the puller with a hammer. At this point, I feel like something is still fastened or I am not using the puller correctly???????? but I know that's not the case. Thats how tight it's on there. I guess the last thing I can try is the wax trick Nige mentioned, it was getting to late to try tonight. I do have one question, how hot am I supposed to get it, just warmed up pretty good, red, cherry red?? Danny
A good glowing orange.
Thanks Mitch, I didn't have it close to that hot, I was afraid of warping it or damaging it in some sort of way. I'll be back at it tomorrow after work. I still can't believe how tight it's on there, the puller is so tight that the 5/8 puller bolts started to bend. Have you ever personally removed one of these adapter plates before? also, have you ever replaced a rear main seal in a 225 with the 3304 engine? thanks again Danny
I did one in a 215 w/ a 3304, I just used my healthy Snap-On puller and a BFH, one thing that might help you is to change those single flat washers for thick hardened ones. My puller has thick, square pieces of tool steel that actually hook over the outer edges.
Very good point, the one in the manual actually hooks over the edge. I haven't lost hope, so I guess thats good. I love a challenge and really am enjoing working on this excavator with my 75 yr old father "it's my first excavator" thanks again Danny
Hooks over what edges?
The puller I was talking about looks vaguely like his, and has plates that extend over the sides of the puller to keep the puller from spreading.
Don't go nuts on the puller. The last thing you want to do is strip the threads out of the plate.
Good thought, a little pessimistic, but good.
Personally I think heat could be the key - lots of it .......
When you've been doing it for a while you develop a knack for spotting disasters on the horizon.
I have been following this thread. I have to say, from personal experience turning wrenches on stuff for ~25 years, I don't like the cherry red/orange heat idea in a situation like this. The puller you have on there right now is what I would use, and I agree with mitch504 about the washers. Regular washers, even grade 8, are not going to cut it. The washers will just get extruded into the puller H-Beam. All steel acts like a spring, you need to add more inertia to the washers or spacers you use to decrease deflection, you do this by making them thicker. You also have to keep the "tuning fork" portion of the H-Beam puller from splaying apart. If you have thin springy washers in there, when you pound on the puller screw you're not transmitting the shock loading to the adaptor plate in a manner that will break it loose. Much thicker spacers or proper keeper plates, and making sure the bolts threaded into the adapter plate are FULLY engaged in all the threads available is where you need to start. Without having a parts book for this unit to see a cross section, I am making some assumptions on the anatomy of the assembly, I'm going by what I see in your pictures, I could have it way wrong. I made a mock up of what you're trying to do and rendered out some pictures: I see that you have nuts and washers on both sides of your H-Beam puller, that seems wrong to me if the H-Beam has a threaded hole in it. If that hole has wiped out threads, or if it is just a thru hole, it makes the puller a bit more cumbersome than it should be. I personally would not overheat anything here... This is a part that sees vibration and flexure. When you heat steel hot enough, you change the crystalline structure of the steel and you can make it brittle. The adapter plate could become brittle and grenade apart on you at some point in the future. IMO, moderate heat (map gas torch from Home Depot etc) while keeping a ****ton of torque on that center puller bolt while hammering on the end of said bolt with a steel 6lb sledge should do the job. Again, if your H-Beam is splaying, and your washers/spacer are springy, you're not transmitting the shock loading properly, and it makes it hard to break the pilot press fit free. Full resolution of the above pics can be seen here: http://imgur.com/a/WrmhZ
That's exactly the type of washers or plates I was talking about, etd. Fantastic drawings, BTW.
Anybody got a picture of the actual CAT tooling, just out of curiosity?
Pretty much identical to what was posted on the previous page ......
Quick question. What program did you use to make those drawings, very nice!
I'm a mechanical design engineer by day, the software is called Autodesk Inventor, it's a 3D CAD design software package. http://www.autodesk.com/products/inventor/overview
All I can say is WOW!!!!!! Excellent drawings and write up, thanks a million etd66ss. I am to rushed after work to do it correctly, so I am going to beef up my puller over the weekend and take my time with it. Cmark was already correct about my first little rinky dink puller, I don't want him to be right about the threads stripping out, haha I just want to say thank you to everyone who has been following the thread and giving imput towards the situation Danny
At the risk of derailing the thread (nothing new there then) we went for a ride on the local steam railway yesterday. On a sunny day it's a lovely ride through the woods and along by the sea. Loch, the oldest loco in the video, was built in 1874. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZmBIZB1o9Y
Great video Nige, can't believe that train Loch was built in 1874, thats amazing. Your local train ride sounds nice and scenic, where are you located?? as far as the adapter plate goes, I am going to make up brackets for the puller to beef it up a bit and apply heat. Danny
What's the biggest bar-type puller out there available? Snap on do a 10 ton threaded version for a mere $440, https://store.snapon.com/10-ton-Cap...ush-Pull-10-Ton-17-5-8-max-reach-P635284.aspx Must be a heaps of old, large size pullers laying about in barns and shops, wonder if you'd get a better "crack" at it using a forged piece? Looking forward to seeing picture of this plate successfully removed.
Looks like you could just about balance a bronze drift or piece of rectangular stock against the edge of plate and give it a pounding all round the perimeter, while it's all under tension. If concerned about the 2 threaded holes, looks like you could tap threads carefully into the 2 flywheel bolt holes that appear to be in reach of the end of your puller bar. Then you'll have 4 bolts holding which should make it pretty rigid. Easy to say from ringside seat I know, I guess it's waiting til you've shaken and sweated and got pretty wound up on it, then it'll give. It's a fine line to tread, hey. All the best.
Did you get this adapter loose yet? Cheers
Hello John, unfortunately I have not, sorry it has taken me so long to respond or even update this thread, between my computer crashing and life in general, I have had no time. Here is the latest, I bought a 10 ton snap-on puller "very heavy duty" and have tried heating the plate with a torch, but it still won't budge. I have also tried the candle wax trick that Nige suggested, with no luck. I just picked up a Co2 fire extinguisher, so I am going to try to heat it up again then blast it with that and see what happens. I did notice two drilled holes in the flywheel that are exactly across from each other, I would think they were to balance the flywheel, but then thought maybe there could be set screws in there, if there were, the only way to get to them would be through the starter housing, but even then it wouldn't be easy. I highly doubt there are set screws, I guess I am just trying to find a reason why this thing is on so tight, as soon as I have more time I will post new pictures of the puller and also let everyone know if the Co2 does the trick, at this point I'm running out of options and am thinking I may have to cut it with a torch or grinder. Danny
Hi Danny, sounds awful tight. Can see where you're wondering if there is more hidden bolts, much headroom around the starter motor, or contortionist time? Flashlight and dentists mirror? You probably did already, but in these situations we usually dig out our ugly looking selection of scrap bronze/copper rectangular pieces of scrap, these are around 2" x 5/8" flats, about a foot long to start until they get ends trimmed as they get destroyed. Might need a few pieces, but when you've got puller on max, hold the 5/8" side against the rim of adaptor plate (so you hitting the 5/8 side up very the end, hitting it sideways with hammer) and smack it towards the crank shaft. Do this all round perimeter, need thick glove to hold your bronze drift, because it will very quickly become a splayed ugly thing! Rotate the drift end for end when it loses it's shape, keep checking tension on your puller, gives you time to get breath back! If you try this, watch out for your eyes (goggles). Might help, if you not tried this yet. If you did already, be interested to hear how the cold blast goes, never used extinguisher for this, only used cold water. Good luck! John
Hi John, there is a little bit of room around the starter, I have tried the mirror trick and can't see anything down there, also have tried using a bronze drift, beating the adapter plate in a full circle while I had the puller torqued, the end of the drift turned into a mushroom it was beat so much, still no luck. Have you every replaced the rear main seal in a Cat 225 with the 3304 engine? if so, did you run into any problems getting the adapter plate off the flywheel? anyone I talked to who has done this job never ran into this issue. Thanks, Danny
Not that model in particular, but a faceplate like that is what you see, a ring of bolts to remove and some puller action. With a tolerance fit, the power of rust is incredible. It can be like this, where you get desperate in the end and have to hit it so hard that the tools may break up or the part suffers damage, not good. It's a fine line to tread, but sometimes you just keep at it, keep checking the threads and the bolts are in properly, and your puller tensioned up hard and square, more penetrant fluid, more hard cracks in the true line with your hammer, after an age you hope to see some movement. If not, maybe try and line up a replacement part before crossing the line and destroying it... Is it only held on the centre, or is it tight in a recess round the outside? Can't make it out from photos. Did you try the co2 hot cold treatment, or you still got in reserve?! All the best, John.
It's amazing the power of rust, it is tight in a recess around the entire outside of the plate. I have not tried the heat/Co2 trick yet, been busy with side work on the weekends. One way or another this plate is coming off haha Thanks for all your help and suggestions, everyone on this site is great Danny
Pictures of heavy duty Snap-on puller
I don't see much hammer rash on that plate I think you're going to have to get brutal on it. The idea isn't so much to loosen the rust per se, what you're trying to is to hit the plate hard enough to 'bounce' it off the flywheel.
I think the way that plate is made, and pulling from near the center (I know, it's the only place you can pull) the force is actually bowing the plate like a belleville washer, causing the outer edge of the plate to angle into the flywheel.
Last night I was trying to think of a way to tap threads in the ring of bolt holes going through to flywheel, and setting up a heavy plate or something that picks up these holes, with another row of bolts around outside of this plate pushing on the edge of flywheel... It seemed the sort of thing that I might end up doing, it would take ages and might not work any better but it would be pulling on the edge. Your old puller looked like it went across far enough to get over a hole each end, it might stop this bowing a little. As Cmark says, you might need to brutalize it a degree or two harder.
Maybe even remove the puller then soak it down real good and whack it several good times to flex it in a bit. Might let the penetrate in fluid work in around the edge. If you see a change in the color around the outer edge it means it is working. Keep hitting and flushing out with the fluid. Like Lantraxco says the puller might actually be somewhat counter productive at this point. Like trying to force a rusted bolt to turn. Better to get it working a little in each direction and flood the area with penetrating fluid to slowly wash the rust out. We used to have a problem removing hydraulic pumps off old Hough Loader converters. The splines would lock on tight with rust. Found out if the converter was coming out anyhow that if you left the pumps in place then removed the converter from the housing and then removed plug from inside end of the drive gear and filled with penetrating fluid and just let sit over night the pump would fall out on it's own weight.
Whatever happened to this project?
Hello etd66ss, I took a job at the end of July two hours from my home, so I literally have had no time what soever to work on it. "4 hours round trip every day eats up a lot of time " I am finishing the job up hopefully within the next week or so, and trust me getting back to this project is first on my list. I'm not sure why, but I tried posting and update saying nothing new to report and it did not post?? anyway I'll let everyone know what happens as soon as I resume. My plan is to heat it up ever so slightly then blasting it with the Co2 while I have some tension on the puller and immediately after, I'll spray PB-Blaster around the outer edge, hopefully it breaks free, because I am just about out of ideas. "driving 4 hours a day for 4 months is a lot of time to think of ideas" haha Danny
It looks like it will hold water, fill it up and wait for it to freeze, rotate 90 degrees and try it again. Might work? Weld or plug all the holes except one, hook a paint sprayer to that one and pump in the water. That would have the power to ruin the flywheel, possibly the threads on the crank too, if the pressure held.
Hello Delmar, I'm not sure I understand your idea, are you saying to fill all of the the little threaded holes going through the adapter plate??
Now that's a novel approach! Clean off all the dirt, oil and loose rust then get some good tape like Gorilla tape and seal all but one opening near the top. Fill with water and hope for a good freeze overnight. That might just work! What have you got to loose a couple dollars for the tape and a gallon of water. Only problem is waiting for freezing weather in NJ. But if it's been sitting since July what's a couple more weeks. Anyone who doesn't think ice can impart much pressure needs to take a schedule 40 pipe nipple and two pipe caps. Put cap on one end and fill with water then put cap on the other end and stick it in the freezer! I recall having a problem with bulges in the front frame of our 560 Hough loaders, the supports for the cab. These were something like 3/4 to 1 inch thick steel plate. We were trying to figure out why they had this bulge in them and got the idea it had to be from ice in the winter. Took a cutting torch and put a small hole down at the lowest point and sure enough a steady ****** of rusty water poured out
I was thinking just pour water in until it's full to the lowest hole. The dynamics are going to be different with what water freezes first with all that steel. It might not work, but it might. If you see a little loose rust in the joint after it warms up, then rotate the engine and try another spot.
Hello everyone, sorry I haven't been around, Dad was in the hospital having heart work again "he had bypass surgery in 2010" this time had stents put in, he's all good thank God, so between that and work haven't had any time, but anyway I haven't made any progress at all, I have beat this plate so hard, "it's dented up pretty good" tried heating just the flywheel and used 4 cans of pb blaster still won't budge, can anyone tell me if they make a replacement adapter plate? I'm thinking I am going to use a cutoff wheel on my grinder and cut the plate, my serial number is 76u03957 Thanks for any help
Good to hear from you Dan and that your dad is fixed.
There's a classic part available, part number 2310268. It's in Belgium and you should be able to get it for about $800.
That "Classic" part number does show as being $650 on SIS here in NY but with the note to check with dealer for availability, so it could be that the one Cmark mentioned as being in Belgiium is the only one and the shipping to USA might be the difference in price.
You've got it Ken! It's the only one in the world and I took a guess on the shipping cost.
WOW!!! NOT CHEAP Thanks Kshansen and Cmark, has anyone ever run into an adapter plate that would not brake loose ?? maybe I can find a good used one if not I guess I will have to bite the bullet
is the adapter plate the same on a cat 215, they also had the 3304 correct? I know the 225 came with a 3208 US machine and 3304 begum machine does the 3208 8cyl also use the same plate? thanks everyone. I found a guy on eBay that is parting out a 215 so hopefully this could be an option
If you can get a serial number, we can tell for sure.
thanks Cmark, I'll contact the seller and report back
TODAY WAS THE DAY!!!! I would just like to thank every single member who gave their ideas on this adapter plate removal project. I got out of work early today and decided this thing has to come off. I sprayed it down with Pb blaster cranked down on the puller as tight as I could get it using a 4ft piece of pipe and started beating on it with a 12lb hammer, finally saw the littlest bit of movement, so I continued to spray it, beat it, and tighten the puller each time it moved, after about an hour or so it came flying out of there. Thanks again everyone Danny
well done. Is it still useable?
Thanks Cmark, you were right, I had to get brutal on it, alot of hammer rash on her now. I'm pretty sure it's still usable, I tried uploading pics of it "did they post" besides a few marks from hammering on it she seems ok. Danny
Bit of smoothing up should be okay... I wonder if your local driveline shop could maybe check the balance on it?
Great success, you got frantic on it! Nice result.
Hey Lantraxco, what would you suggest for smoothing the plate out? I don't want to remove to much material trying to get it smoothed out, is checking the balance real important? Thanks, Danny
Hello John, I sure did get frantic on it, it fought me the whole way. thanks
If you want to get technical with it take it to a machine shop and have them spin it in a lathe and take the high spots off. If you want to "bush mechanic" it then a scientifically-applied 7" grinder should do the trick. Oh, and polish the ***k out of where it fits on to the flywheel so it goes back on easier than it came off .......!!
Dapperdan, It's like the welder at the shop told me once about trying to get a broken bolt out of a crusher bowl. All you have to do is be smarter than the bolt and a little more stubborn! I think you passed on both those criteria! I think I would polish that disk up on all surfaces and maybe just lay a good straight edge on in various places to see if there is any sign or warping then with a bit of never-seize around the bore in the flywheel bolt it back in place and call it good. Oh! Don't forget to replace the rear seal! That was why you went to all this work in the first place.
Hello Nige, a grinder is exactly what I was thinking, it's only really going to be used on my own land, so I don't have to get crazy with it "it won't be working on any major job sites"
Thanks Kshansen, I definitely was more stubborn then the plate and it paid off. I'm going to do what everyone is suggesting and just clean it up and polish it, thankfully I am blessed with patience, I just rebuilt the engine on Dad's quad one of the head bolts broke off into the engine case, it took 12hrs to remove the old bolt clean it up and re tap it. Lol, wouldn't that be something if I forgot to install the seal.
I'm not sure what takes up the thrust on the crank in that engine, but could the crank have been bent with all that hammering?
I highly doubt it, the adapter plate is against the flywheel which is pretty thick, but I'll let the experts answer this one. Danny