Ok, I bought this machine cheap, real cheap, knowing that it had this problem with the right side tires not moving. What it does is try but acts like somethings binding, the left side moves fine back and forth all the other functions work, motor's great boom lifts and functions. The hydraulic oil looks dirty. The guy I bought it from said it was operating fine then all of a sudden the right side tires quit turning, he had someone check the chains and they seem to be fine. He sold it to me thinking the pump was bad could that be possible? I've heard they have a micro-switch that could be bad. I can't take it to the dealer because I can't load it and I don't want to pay a big service charge just yet. Oh it has 1500 hrs on it.:usa:usa
I wonder if I posted wrong or just nobody knows the answer...
I don't think you posted it wrong, probably just no one signed on has an answer for you. Come to think of it, I don't recall seeing many Cat skids with drive problems here. I haven't worked on their drives myself, don't know what they have in there, so I can't help much. BTW, welcome to the forum Tiger41. :usa
I believe it has a chain drive..
The 226's have a drive motor for each side that drives both front and rear tires on that side via chains. Have you jacked the machine up and tried to operate it ? It would tell you if there is any attempt at the right side driving. It sounds like it possibly could be a drive motor on the right side either locked - if it doesn't move at all, or a plugged or dirty line or solenoid if it attempts to move when tires are off the ground. With the left side operating, the parking brake should be releasing ok. While it's jacked up you might want to drain the loser case and open the chain cover to make sure the chain is engaged properly
To me it sounds like a problem in the drive motor ($$$$$$$) or maybe a park brake failure. I believe Cat uses a SAHR type brake system. A component failure could cause one side to lock up. Not overly familiar with the Cat's though.
Ok, I got the tires off of it and the side that won't move, tries to you can hear the pump straining. I talked to one guy on the phone and he said it's the main pump, possible but I just don't think it's likely. I want to believe it's a solenoid or a blocked line or maybe even a drive motor, what am I gonna find when I open the chain cover? Is there oil or grease in there? I did learn from the guy that had it that before it completely quit that it had done this same thing a few times but they would move it back and forth and then it would start working again. Thanks for yall posting, I will keep you posted.:usa Oh, let's all keep the families of the soldjiers at Ft. Hood in our prayers....
If you hear a "strain" when you attempt to drive the dead side, I doubt you have a pump problem. When pumps crap out, they don't strain, they don't do nothing...they're crapped out. I know nothing about the Cat system, but the first thing I would want to learn is how the parking brakes apply. On a Bobcat, it's one locking system for both sides. On some Case machines, each side has an independent lock. If your Cat has locks that engage independent of each side, I'd be seriously looking into the lock on the dead side.
Your 226 has a seperate multi plate brake on each drive motor. They are spring applied, hydraulic release. Release pressure is supplied by one solenoid to both brakes. Here's a few possibilities that may explain your problem. 1. You have a broken drive chain on the bad side and it has jammed the motor output shaft. Unlikely, as you would expect at least one of the wheels to freewheel. 2. The brake solenoid isn't supplying pressure to release the brakes. This would affect both sides. However, see point 4. 3. One of the brake release piston seals have failed. There was an update to the brake piston seals on the 226B. If the seals won't hold pressure, the pressure will also be low on the other brake and it also would not release. However, again see point 4. 4. What I think is most likely is the brakes have locked on due to either fault 2 or 3 and someone has towed the machine or forced the machine to drive through the brakes and has broken one of them. I suggest you start by checking the pressure to the brakes. You will need to tee a gauge into the line as there is no pressure tap fitted. Lower the cab and sit in the seat. Hit the brake release switch and you should see 450psi. If you do, then look for a locked motor. If you see zero, the solenoid isn't working, either due to a hydraulic or electrical fault. If you see more than zero but much less than 450psi, start to look at scenario #3 above. Good luck.
Where can I find a service manual for this 226 Cat? I have heard of online sites where you can download them but I havn't found anything with a reasonable price. Dealer want's crazy money for one. :usa
Is this an earlier model 226 or a "B" series? One owner told me that some of the earlier drive motors had faulty castings that housed the roller bearings and Cat was replacing these motors with improved ones from the "B" series. His repair was covered under warranty. Maybe yours could if the warranty is transferable?
It's a 2003 model but I do believe that could be the problem because I found shavings in the hydraulic system.
Maybe you should visit your dealer again. Even if they want a lot of $ for a manual, you may save yourself even more $$$ in repairs.
do what was mentioned above, check brake pressure it if is below 420 psi cap on drive motor brake off at a time and see if your pressure comes back to normal, if it does you have a brake issue, but in the whole time I have worked on cat skid steers(which is the life of the line) I have seen only one brake failure. The a models did have drive motor issues, the outer bearing will fail and lock up the motor. You can take off the side cover and inspect the chains, also if it is the outer bearing chances are you will see it as it will have pushed the seal out of the drive motor, Have you noticed a loss of hyd oil, but not external leaks? If so it is losing hyd oil to the chain case.
Had this exact problem with a Gehl 5640 last week.
I have a 242 CAT skidloader 2004. I have a similar problem. I hit the parking brake to be able to operate the drive motor and boom motor and they both work but the parking brake must still be activated because it makes an awful grinding noise and I can only go about 15 feet and then the hydraulic drive pumps get mad and quit. sometimes you can go 10 feet or so and then the brake kicks out and it will work just fine...until you get out and have to hit the parking brake switch at the upper left again. I already replaced the parking brake solonoid which is located basically under your left leg if you were sitting in the machine, with no luck (of course you have to tilt the cab to get at it). I tried jumping the seat switch, no luck. I unplugged the armrest switch with no luck. there is no visible hydraulic oil leaking. I tightening the drive chains and changed the oil in there and it was actually low no major concerns that I could see. I am at a loss except to buy the $650 repair manual (WOW!) or take it in to have it repaired at $90 an hour. (which I do not want to do) Is there another solonoid that needs to be checked? how do you test the wiring or solonoids? (the perfectly good one that I replaced cost $60 for the part) Under my right leg if sitting in the seat there are two solonoid looking parts. anyone know what they might do? I find it hard to believe, but could it be water or dirt in the hydraulic oil? I have 900 hrs on the machine and you are supposed to change the oil at 1000 hours. I changed the filter at 500 hours. I live in WI and it is 0 degrees today(FYI). it first did this in the fall (above freezing) and then it worked for a while and the did again and progressively got worse to the point where it does it every time now. unless I get lucky and the brake pops. ?????????????????????
How have you gotten on with the problem as I have just encountered the same problem with my 2004 model and am stumped.
I am not totally convinced that I solved the problem yet. I am still asking a heavy equipment mechanic on Justanswer.com how to diagnose. first thing I checked: seat switch and armrest switch and I also put a jumper wire in the seat switch just to by pass it. it is under the seat. sit in the seat and it is right between your legs. two wires. then I ran a series of checks on the brake solenoid and brake solenoid harness to make sure that they were doing what they were supposed to (see below) and they are. then I put a tarp over the machine as it is outside and dumped heat on it for 3 hours to thaw it. still did the same thing. drive motor would work but brake was not dis-engaging until I ran it 20 feet then it would pop and work fine. after I dumped heat on it I could at least get the drive motors to pop the brake off by driving it for a few feet with the throttle wide open. probably not good for it. another guy told me to get in, start the machine and pull straight up on the left (drive) joystick and then turn park brake off with the toggle, and then try to go. I did that this morning and now the brake didn't stick. I put the brake on and off about 4 times and still no sticking. hard to believe, this guy said the controls in the joystick go and need to get rebuilt on some. the last thing the online mechanic told me to do is check the pressure in the hydraulic line from the solonoid to the drive motor. should read 450 +/- 30 psi. if not then check solonoid and voltage to it or the brake piston seal. inside the motor. Test Step 2. CHECK VOLTAGE AT THE SOLENOID VALVE WITH KEY SWITCH OFF 1. Turn the key start switch to the OFF position. 1. Locate the parking brake solenoid under the cab. 1. Disconnect the parking brake solenoid from the electrical connector. 1. Measure the voltage across the two contacts of the harness connector Expected Result: The voltage should be less than 2 DCV. Results: * OK - The voltage is less than 2 DCV. Proceed to Test Step 3. * NOT OK - The voltage is greater than 2 DCV. Repair: The wire harness is shorted to a + battery circuit. Repair the wire harness or replace the wire harness. Stop. Test Step 3. CHECK VOLTAGE AT THE SOLENOID VALVE WITH KEY SWITCH ON 1. Turn the key start switch to the ON position. 1. Measure the voltage across the two contacts of the harness connector Expected Result: Voltage should be less than 2 DCV. Results: * OK - The voltage is less than 2 DCV. Proceed to Test Step 4. * NOT OK - The voltage is greater than 2 DCV. Proceed to Test Step 6. Test Step 4. CHECK THE VOLTAGE AT THE SOLENOID VALVE WHILE THE KEY SWITCH IS ON AND THE PARKING BRAKE IS RELEASED 1. Turn the key start switch to the ON position. Press and release the parking brake switch. Note: Two people will need to perform this procedure. One person will need to be sitting in the seat with the armrest in the DOWN position. 1. Measure the voltage across the two contacts of the harness connector Expected Result: The voltage should be greater than 10 DCV. Results: * OK - The voltage is greater than 10 DCV. Proceed to Test Step 5. * NOT OK - The voltage is less than 10 DCV. Proceed to Test Step 7. Test Step 5. CHECK RESISTANCE OF THE SOLENOID 1. Measure the resistance between the two wires of the parking brake solenoid. Expected Result: The resistance should be 10 ± 2 Ohms. Results: * OK - The resistance is 10 ± 2 Ohms. Repair: The problem does NOT appear to be electrically related. Stop. * NOT OK - The resistance is NOT 10 ± 2 Ohms. Repair: The solenoid has failed. Replace the solenoid. Stop. Test Step 6. CHECK THE WIRE HARNESS FOR A SHORT CIRCUIT 1. Locate the Interlock ECM. 1. Disconnect the wire harness. 1. Turn the key start switch to the ON position. 1. Check the resistance from contact 13 of the wire harness to the following contacts: contact 1, contact 11, contact 24, contact 29, contact 62 and contact 70. Expected Result: The resistances should be above 2 Ohms. Results: * OK - The resistance readings are above 2 Ohms. Repair: The ECM is unlikely to fail. Terminate this procedure and restart the procedures. Verify all the readings. Stop. * NOT OK - One or more resistance readings are below 2 Ohms. Repair: The wire harness has failed. Repair the wire harness or replace the wire harness. Stop. Test Step 7. CHECK THE WIRE HARNESS FOR CONTINUITY 1. Turn the key start switch to the OFF position. 1. Connect a jumper wire between wires A958-WH and 202-BK on the wire harness at the end of the parking brake solenoid. 1. Locate the Interlock ECM. 1. Disconnect the wire harness. 1. Check the resistance between pin 13 and pin 66 of the wire harness. Expected Result: The resistance should be less than 2 Ohms. Results: * OK - The resistance is less than 2 Ohms. Repair: The ECM is very unlikely to have failed. Reconnect all connections and visually inspect the wire harness. Verify that the diagnostic code still exists. If the diagnostic code still exists perform the Test Steps again.Replace the ECM, if the cause of the diagnostic code was not found after the second attempt. See Testing and Adjusting, "Electronic Control Module (ECM) - Replace". Stop. * NOT OK - The resistance is greater than 2 Ohms. Repair: The wire harness has failed. Repair the wire harness or replace the wire harness