Need any help I can get. I have a 2016 Cat 259D serial #CAT0259DHFTL00697 I have had it for around 5 years have never done anything to it but regular services. I have never had any issues with at all. It currently has around 2800 hours. I went to start clearing some land for customer and within 30 minutes it started throwing this code and shut down. After letting it cool I tried it again and within 30 minutes done the same thing. So being close to the 3000 hours I removed the DPF filter took to a shop in San Antonio and had it cleaned. while having it torn apart and waiting on the filter I broke down and bought the Cat ET. once I got the filter back got it reassembled and installed I hooked the ET up just to check soot levels it was showing 23%. I went ahead and done a forced regen on it. It all went fine all the temps looked good it completed the regen. So I took it out of the shop went to mow the pasture to check it and within 30 minutes same exact code and same issue. I have went through all the wiring harnesses pulled all the connectors apart cleaned them out dialectic grease on them and plugged back in. The only wire I found was burnt on the exhaust was the #2 injector wires. You can start it and let it idle for hours either on high idle or low idle and never any issues. It’s only when you move the machine the issue occurs. The unit will also regen on its on without any issues. So not sure of why it’s over heating the exhaust only when moving and almost 30 minutes to the second every time.
So you have Cat ET. First thing in the morning, key on and check DPF temp status. Should read ambient. Does it? According to service literature, that code logs after a hot shut down. What other codes are logging? For the best possible help, post up a Product Status Report and post progressive screenshots of both DPF Performance screens in ET as the DPF temps rise. Guessing it’s another burnt wire or just a sensor hopefully. Question, when you cleaned the DPF did you let the engine ECM know? (Soot load reset or something like that it’s called in service procedures)
This is a screen shot of the DPF right after shut down. It will be late tomorrow before I can get back to the machine. Yes after installing the DPF I reset spit levels then done a forced regen on it. I can pull the report tomorrow the only other code that’s active is for my bucket. It did kick code for number 2 injector but think I fixed it with wire issue.
This is a screen shot of the forced regen.
here is a copy of the diagnostics on this unit.
Thanks for that. Good info. I don't think it's a temp sensor or temp sensor wiring issue any more but when you get the cold DPF temp readings that will confirm it for sure. There's really only two things that get a DPF hot. Blockage, fuel, or both. Fuel can be in the form of diesel or engine oil. I'd get to the bottom of these codes first... Since we can't tell the hours those codes were last active, if you think you've repaired the injector wiring see if you can clear them, then see if they return. I'm not sure the customer version of ET will let you do this but worth a shot. Key on, engine not running when you do this. Then perform a cylinder cutout test in Diagnostic Procedures and post up the report it gives you. If there's an injector or two overfueling that will give you these symptoms. As well as other issues. A good inspection of the intake tubing is required. Any pooling oil in or out of the turbo? Any pooling oil coming out of the crankcase breather hose where it tee's into the air inlet hose? If so there's your problem. Need to work out source of fuel causing the high DPF temps. If you can't find anything next step will be expensive (replace injectors). But don't want to jump to conclusions just yet.
Thank you I will check everything tomorrow and hook up the ET and post the results. I do have a rough idle about 2100 rpm but at minimum and max rpm no rough idle. I have had the turbo off and the hoses I did not see any oil in the exhaust anywhere. But I’m leaning towards an injector dumping too much fuel and going into the exhaust. But I will do the cut out test tomorrow afternoon so you can look at it. I know most of the codes have been on it for years. I think I have cleared all the codes out but the bucket limit that one still shows active and will not clear but I will double check it.
Ok. During that rough idle at 2100 rpm, make note of desired vs actual fuel rail pressure. Are they within 100 psi or so?
Sorry I was not able to get down to it today. I’m a mechanic and electrician on drilling rigs so never know where or when I will be called out. But I am out of parts so I’ll definitely be at the shop in the morning and will run the report before i head out anywhere in the morning.
This is a screen shot of the temp sensors this morning from is 68 currently here.
i ran the cylender cutout test twice this is the results.
here is the diagnostics from today. it will not let me clear the rest of the stored codes. but i did notice that injectors 2 & 3 have kicked this code a lot.
Ok after messing with it a little more i have been able to clear all the codes except the loader bucket that one is still showing active. But no other active codes at this time.
I cane back after lunch turn it on and now have a code for fuel pump calibration mist severe. So I went into the cat et and sure enough it’s showing not calibrated so not sure why that is. But I went to calibrations and been trying to calibrate it. But on the fuel pressure says it needs to be between 6 and 22. I’m had a very difficult time getting it uo to 6. It wants to to bounce between -3 and +5. I finally caught it over 6 and started it. But it just says calibration successfully started and other box says please wait. If I click the ok then it just goes back to start menu.
It is a PITA to clear codes on these. ET is clunky to say the least. That bucket code can stay active forever and won't affect anything other then the bucket level lift system. The first test is concerning... My theory is that while injector #2 was cut out, the other injectors didn't need to inject anything to maintain the 1217 RPM. In fact, they needed to take fuel away if they could. Hence the negative result on #2. Whether I'm right or wrong, I think it's worth pulling #2 injector out and looking at it, even comparing it to another injector or two. If it's cleaner the others, it's overfueling. If it is intermittently stuck open, I hope it hasn't done more damage. Have seen these cause bent con rods and score/wash out cylinder walls. A borescope would check for scoring, a compression test and cutting the engine oil filter open would check for other damage. Another thing you can do is swap injectors and redo the cutout test. I think there's an option in ET for swapping injector trim files from one cylinder to another, otherwise you'll have to do it manually, if your version of ET will allow this. If it is stuck open and overfuelling I'd be reluctant to put it in another cylinder and risk doing more damage unless I'd inspected for cylinder damage. But it's your time and money, you may chose to just replace #2 injector and hope for the best. I wouldn't do the fuel pump calibration unless it asks you to, yet. EDIT: you mentioned it did. What prompted you for this? Nothing logged on the product status report.
it has a code that popped up showing fuel pump not calibrated I’ll send it tomorrow. Cylrnder number 2 I think is going to be the issue. I done a couple more cutout test and on one cylinder 2 was at 9.3 and then the next one it’s was like at 7.4 if I remember correctly. That injector is never anywhere close to the other ones. I have shop in San Antonio that charges 59.00 to test Cat injectors and around 450.00 if they have to rebuild them. So I may pull it and take it them to see if they can fix it vs the 1000.00 for the new one. It’s at least worth a shot. I’m hoping that’s the extent of the issues. I have only put maybe an hour on the machine since it started missing and throwing codes. It’s just strange that fuel pump just now is out of calibration. But I think I’ll worry about it after I get the one tie issue fixed.
So how are these injectors numbered. Looking from the back of machine towards the cab? Are they in order or is there a different firing order for them.
That code could be important. Injectors no's relate to cylinder no's, not firing order, so #1 is at the front of the engine, in order all the way to #4 at the flywheel end. Definitely not my money, but I can tell you I've had both catastrophic and bad results fitting reconditioned injectors in the past. Given Cat have a flash file accompanying that injector, I'm not sure how any shop would test them accurately.
It's a Kubota. . .. even kubota does not have a reman option for the v3307 (Cat 3.3) Is a denso injector, same as Kubota Svl 75-2 etc.
There is a Denso Part Number kicking around somewhere on this forum for the injector IIRC Maybe @thepumpguysc might know.
This is what is popping up now on the fuel pump. This started after I done the cylinder cutout test. I went in and tried to calibrate it but it requires between 6 and 22 on fuel at zero on throttle. It will never get to that. I can meet all the other requirements but that one. My machine reaches 5.9 but stats more down on the 2 and 3 range.
I wondoer if that lack of pressure could be the result of a broken suction valve spring.? It might be worth a check.
Thank you I will defiantly check while I’m pulling injectors.
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So that's 6 - 22 mm3 fuel volume. I hope it's not dumping that fuel into a cylinder. If so a fuel pump and an injector are the least of your issues. If you're not getting the required fuel volume I would expect desired versus actual fuel rail pressure to be miles different.
I will try to look at it tomorrow once I get everything back together and see what the fuel rail pressure is. I know the last time I looked at it it was staying pretty steady.
Just a quick update I have been running nonstop the past 72 hours so haven’t had a lot of time. I replaced number 2 injector with brand new Cat (cost way too much) but that’s beside the point. Got it installed got everything back together and got the trim codes installed and it fires right up that’s the first time it’s started that easy in months. But it’s still got a miss to it. But I did notice that my fuel pressure increased a lot it’s running between 5 and 11 now. But anyway when I done another cut out test when cylinder 3 was cut out I did not have any miss it sounded like it was running perfect. Before clearing the codes I think I had 125 codes kicked on 2 and 3. So I’m thinking I’m probably going to need to replace #3 also. I also cut the old oil filter apart and drained the oil through a paint strainer then stuck my large magnet all around in it. I did not pick up any metal from anywhere. So I am hoping that’s a good sign and just needing one more injector. I will post the newest reports this evening if I can get back to the office early enough.
That Kubota injector is half the price if that one will work I’d prefer to get that one after paying $1000.00 for this last one.
There is a Kubota Part Number for that injector kicking around somewhere. Search for posts by HEF member @ozarkag
Here is the latest cylinder cutout test after installing new injector #2 and the newest product report. but after doing the cutout test it seems like injector #3 is also needing to be replaced. like i said earlier i drained the oil and run it through a paint strainer and also run a large magnet through it and found no signs of any metal in the oil or the oil filter I cut apart. so, I am hoping I am just needing to replace one more injector to replace to get it back going. i am guessing maybe both these injectors were dumping fuel and causing the DPF exhaust to overheat.
This same discussion was had a couple of weeks ago. If you are going to replace two injectors due to faults the other two are probably not far away from giving up the ghost. If you can find a Kubota engine dealer somewhere close to you the injectors should be around half the price of Cat. All they will need is your engine Serial Number, you don't even need to tell them that they are installed in a Cat machine.
Yes I 2 Kubota dealers within 15 min of me. So planning on this week running by one if them especially since I can buy 2 for the price of one Cat.
Check Post #25 by @ozarkag for the Kubota Part Number.
This may not apply here since you have fuel issues. I have seen the high exhaust temp caused by a bad EGR causing the exhaust to run hot.
From that I would interpret #3 as the strongest performing cylinder. Could be too strong? I'm not convinced. The problem on these 4 cyl engines is that you can't do manual cutout tests properly. I'm with Nige on replacing all injectors, but only after I'd compression tested, borescoped, checked oil filter (see notes below), checked valve lash and for the sake of it, hook my sight glass/pressure guage up to the low pressure fuel system to make sure that's right too. Re the oil filter, there's videos on youtube covering this. The idea is to cut out a pleated section, squeeze all the oil out using a vise and then inspect for metal. I don't think you'd see the fine stuff any other way. Remembering that a cylinder cutout test doesn't actually tell us if an injector is bad. It only tells us delivered fuel volume when a particular injector isn't injecting. Could still be cylinder damage, or simply valve lash out of spec. I must say I've never encountered an engine that 'comes good' when a cylinder is cut out. Has anyone else? Fair call. In ET you can plot the EGR valve commanded position, actual position and EGR temperature. I think it's worth making sure the fuel system is right first though.
Regarding the fuel volume not getting high enough to complete the fuel pump calibration, that's another reason to check low pressure fuel system also.
Agreed. This one on Youtube is the best I've found. Unless most of the oil is squeezed out of a section of the filter media first the chance of a magnet picking anything up is pretty slim