Bought this machine new. My father and I have mostly ran this machine. I always make 3 point turns and hardly ever spin machine. Drive chain suddenly snapped. I think it wasn't adjusted properly and it was rattling a little on the sprocket. I think it was a random snap. Opened inspection cover and sprockets look good. But the rear drive chain snapped at the link. So I ordered two drive chains from Cat. It's a diamond chain brand. The thing is...with this loegering vts rack drive system...the front chain doesn't pull anything except it free floats in a hub that powers nothing. The front chain still looks new. So I think I need to replace the rear chains on both sides. So I took off the track system. Down to the hubs just as if it had tires. Pulled out old chain. Took hub loose but it doesn't pull out hole because sprocket on inside it bigger than hole. Drained case. Cleaned case. Tried to put in new chain and it will NOT clear the sprocket at the back hub. The chain will not skip over the bottom because the sprocket clearance is too close to the bottom case! Do I have to pull the sprocket off the hub internally? Then mock it all up and then bolt it back? How do I torque that but back? Wow! Why design it so tight? Why not let it have a little more clearance? Any tips? And when I put it all back together...what do I press against to adjust the hub and chain tension? Thanks!
Well. I got one chain on the hard way I suppose. I had to pull the bolt that holds the internal sprocket inside the axle/hub. Pulled off the sprocket. The i placed the chain around the back sprocket. Then I wiggled the heavy outer hub/axle as a friend helped the sprocket up inside. It helped to have a grade stake under the sprocket to hold it up almost an inch. But, don't push it in all the way. Keep the step taper of the hub outside the box frame. That allows you wiggle room for the front motor center small sprocket. Forgot to say...have that little hydraulic motor drive sprocket off before starting the process. But, have the chain over the splined stub. As if the small sprocket were there. Then...with the hub/axle not all the way up the splines and inside the box....the step shaped shaft will wiggle freely in the hole giving you more clearance to slide the rear axle/hub sprocket inward toward the hydraulic motor gear giving you enough slack to work the little hydraulic motor drive center sprocket inside the chain and onto the splines. Then....go back to the rear axle/hub and push inward taking all the splines up as a friend has a rag in his palm, while reaching in the box pressing outward toward the axle/hub. Then, you can slip the nuts that hold the axle/hub on to the frame/box. If you don't do it this way...I don't see how else it can be done. I need to write this out more clearly and easier to understand for archives here. Then you out the washer and bolt that holds the big back axle/hub tight. Make sure to green lock tight the threads! The out the bolt and washer in the hydraulic motor center drive sprocket and use lock right. Torque back what you think it was to start with. Now...its time to adjust the chains and lock down the axle/hubs. 1 inch and half of play one each chain right? Where do I jack against to side axle/hubs? Just slightly tighten and knock it back with hammer? Any tips? The. Fill with to-4 30 weight spec oil. Fill up to side plug until it runs out. Right? Does anyone have access to a service manual to do this job? Any PDF files? Thanks
To install (or remove) the chains by The Book requires the cab to be tilted and the removal of some access panels inside it to get at the inside of the drive system. I'm guessing this isn't how you did it ........... I'm showing the specification of allowable free play in the slack run of the chain as 10-15mm (0.4 - 0.6"). there is a Special Tool for tightening the chains. I thought that tool came with the machine but I may be wrong there. If you want some more details send me a PM with the machine Serial Number and your email address. Edit: See this thread ....... HeavyEquipmentForums Just a thought but on that track system where the front "wheel" doesn't drive anything shouldn't both chains be hooked up to the rear wheel..? Maybe one of our members can comment. Also if it is the case and you bought the machine new then why didn't the dealer re-work the chains to suit the Loegering tracks and shouldn't you have some sort of claim against them..?
Thank you nige! I sent you the PM. The machine is like maybe 9 years old now. The vts track system is a roller frame and track system that bolts in onto the hubs where the wheels go. It has a suspension or torsion system built in to allow it to bogey at the front idler similar to the way large cat dozers have walking roller frames. You can look it up on YouTube to see how it works. It was very expensive. I chose that back when I bought the machine because the factory ctl loader had the solid roller frame high drive which doesn't go as good in rough terrain and rides rough. And...the costs of the repair when the hydraulic motor and planetary fails. Also...cat had that expensive multi terrain system that rides great but it's a super expensive and requires lots of maintenance. This system bridges the gap. Plus I can unbolt it and use tires and wheels when I have a job that doesn't require lots of traffic such as working on asphalt surfaces. I just didn't adjust the drive chains as I should have is why I think it snagged and popped a link. Plus...I think the rubber track system causes more pressure on a drive chain due to traction.
I snapped a chain on my 440 CASE with the VTS. Your putting all the machines drive through one small chain. The VTS adds like 1500 pounds per side to the weight of the machine. You are going to replace some chains. Overall I liked the VTS, but it is not without its issues.
At some point CAT installed VTS with front drive chain on double rear sprockets since earlier additions were snapping drive chains. Had a 236b2 like this. Should be able to tell if a machine is set up this way by looking at the front hub to see if it turns at all. IF not, probably double rear drive chain.
Got one side together. It was aggravating to line the lug bolts up. I did it on a gravel area in front of my shop. Couldn't get room to get it in the shop. It truly would be best to use a level concrete floor and a forklift with tilt function. I used a butterfly porta power to wiggle all directions. One trick is to wedge board under the torsion beam to adjust front lug line up. Do the rear first...then the front. So, how do I convert my machine to a dual chain and sprocket setup for only the rear? Seems like there would be no room in the chain drive box. Does the chain have a master link to make it work? Any tips?