I have an 04' 287B Serial #ZSA00436.. Intermittently when operating the parking brake locks up on both sides and lose all hydraulic funcitons.. Parking brake light and seatbelt light start flashing when this happens.. try to release the parking brake and can hear a solenoid under cab making noise. Checked the connections at the lap bar switch behind cab and they are ok.. a wiring diagram would help if anyone has one. thanks
Check and clean the ground strap from rear of cab to frame above hydraulic tank. You will need to raise the cab. If this ground is bad it will ground through the cab mounts and lose connection when the cab shakes.
Check your messages.
The vibrations in CPT machines causes all sorts of challenges for wiring. Look for: -wiring harness rubbing on belly pans or chassis -wiring harness pinched -wiring connection corrosion -relays and fuses. (I’ve seen fuses that look okay, but have failed) -do you have consistent voltage? (I’ve had an alternator regulator fail and the over voltage condition was making things difficult to diagnose.)
Still looking at this one and as of now it will not release either parking brake and is stuck outside. I have ohmed out all fuses, completed resistance checks on both the lap bar and seat switches, as well as the wiring for them. Cleaned the large ground strap connection from cab to frame. Left off yesterday at pulling the floor pan to check wiring at the Interlock ECM as all of the floor pan bolts were stripped out and i will need to cut them off. Checking to see if anyone might have access to a service manual for this unit and also a diagram of the dash symbols/lights and what they mean.. Along with the park brake and lap bar lights flashing i also have a light on the right side panel on intermittently that looks like a hydraulic cylinder with a diagonal line through it and im not sure what it is for. Thanks for any help. 04' 287B Serial #ZSA00436
I’m not familiar with that Cat model, however I’ve spent many hours on ASV/Terex and they have some similarities. The lap bar, seat safety, door switch all need to work together. If this machine uses solenoids to move the spool valves for the safety circuit/parking brake… there are a few things to check. However my first job would be getting this machine inside a shop and not working outside in the elements. You might be able to just tap those solenoids and get them to move if they are stuck. Remove the wiring harness, check voltage with the lap bar down, seat sensor activated, door switch closed. Maybe you can get lucky, add voltage to the solenoid, and get the machine to move indoors for further repair. I’ve seen degraded o-rings and bad solenoids mostly. This machine is almost 20 years old. Get ready for an adventure!
One of these.? #7 or #8 I'm guessing. You really need an Operation & Maintenance Manual. Search online for SEBU7732. It can be downloaded from HERE in pdf format for $52. Just put SEBU7732 in the Search box.
Yes.. #7 is on intermittently and #8 at times but it is a faded flickering light.. im sure thats a good sign..
#7 is the Implement Lockout warning light. #8 is the Interlock Overrride warning light. IMHO the flickering indicates something is amiss somewhere. Both lights should be either on or off.
Still working on this one here.. finally was able to limp the machine inside my shop and out of the weather, i kept pressing the park brake switch over and over and got it to drive slowly inside.. i could feel in the left (drive control) joystick it was cutting in and out and would stop movement and the kick back in. Basically i cut out all the floor plate bolts that were rusted and removed floor plate, lifted cab and cleaned/vaccumed out the 8" of mud that was covering the ecm's. Started following the troubleshooting below and led me to test step #6 where checking the hydrostatic solenoid for short to B+ i found pin 29 (hydrostatic pilot sol) to pin 24 (work tool pilot solenoid) has 17.5 ohms when it should be over 5k ohms. when i unplug the work tool pilot solenoid that continuity goes away. it seems all the solenoids have a common shared ground however this is checking the B+ circuit.. I am wondering if this means i have a failed work tool solenoid? Thanks for any help. Parking Brake Indicator and Armrest Indicator Are Flashing SMCS - 7630-038-IND Test Step 1. CHECK FOR A FLASHING PARKING BRAKE INDICATOR AND/OR A FLASHING ARMREST INDICATOR BEFORE THE SYSTEM IS ENABLED View Image Illustration 1 g01032933 (1) Armrest indicator (2) Parking brake indicator Occupy the seat. Place the armrest in the DOWN position. Turn the key start switch to the ON position. Expected Result: The armrest indicator should be off and the parking brake indicator should be on. Results: OK - The armrest indicator is off and the parking brake indicator is on. Proceed to Test Step 9. NOT OK - The armrest indicator is flashing and the parking brake indicator is flashing. Proceed to Test Step 2. NOT OK - The parking brake indicator is flashing. Repair: See Troubleshooting, "Parking Brake Indicator Is Flashing". Stop. NOT OK - The armrest indicator is flashing. Repair: See Troubleshooting, "Armrest Indicator Is Flashing". Stop. Test Step 2. CHECK THE RETURN SOLENOID WIRE FOR A SHORT TO GROUND Turn the key start switch to the OFF position. Raise the cab. See Operation and Maintenance Manual, "Cab Tilting". Locate the interlock ECM. The interlock ECM is located on the left side of the machine beneath the access cover on the floor of the machine. Remove the wire harness from the ECM. Measure the resistance from contact 3 to contact 68 (wire 201-BK and wire 975-WH) of the wire harness connector. Expected Result: The resistance should be greater than 5000 Ohms. Results: OK - The resistance is greater than 5000 Ohms. Proceed to Test Step 6. NOT OK - The resistance is not greater than 5000 Ohms. Proceed to Test Step 3. Test Step 3. CHECK THE HYDROSTATIC PILOT SOLENOID FOR A SHORT TO GROUND Locate the hydrostatic pilot solenoid. Disconnect the wire harness from the hydrostatic pilot solenoid. Measure the resistance from contact 3 to contact 68 (wire 201-BK and wire 975-WH) of the wire harness for the ECM. Expected Result: The resistance should be greater than 5000 Ohms. Results: OK - The resistance is greater than 5000 Ohms. Repair: The hydrostatic pilot solenoid has failed. Replace the coil for the hydrostatic pilot solenoid. Stop. NOT OK - The resistance is not greater than 5000 Ohms. Proceed to Test Step 4. Test Step 4. CHECK THE WORK TOOL PILOT SOLENOID FOR A SHORT TO GROUND Locate the work tool pilot solenoid. Disconnect the wire harness from the work tool pilot solenoid. Measure the resistance from contact 3 to contact 68 (wire 201-BK and wire 975-WH) of the wire harness for the ECM. Expected Result: The resistance should be greater than 5000 Ohms. Results: OK - The resistance is greater than 5000 Ohms. Repair: The work tool pilot solenoid has failed. Replace the coil for the work tool pilot solenoid. Stop. NOT OK - The resistance is not greater than 5000 Ohms. Proceed to Test Step 5. Test Step 5. CHECK THE WORK TOOL DETENT COIL FOR A SHORT TO GROUND Locate the work tool detent coil. The detent coil is located beneath the right hand joystick. Remove the access panel in order to get to the connector. Disconnect the wire harness from the work tool detent coil. Measure the resistance from contact 3 to contact 68 (wire 201-BK and wire 975-WH) of the wire harness for the ECM. Expected Result: The resistance should be greater than 5000 Ohms. Results: OK - The resistance is greater than 5000 Ohms. Repair: The work tool detent coil has failed. Replace the coil for the work tool detent coil. Stop. NOT OK - The resistance is not greater than 5000 Ohms. Repair: The wire harness has failed. Repair the wire harness and/or the connector or replace the wire harness and/or the connector. Stop. Test Step 6. CHECK THE CIRCUIT FOR THE HYDROSTATIC PILOT SOLENOID FOR A SHORT TO THE + BATTERY TERMINAL Measure the resistance at the wire harness connector from contact 29 (wire H416-GN) to the following contacts: contact 1, contact 11, contact 13, contact 24, contact 42, contact 47, contact 58, contact 60, contact 62 and contact 70. Expected Result: The resistances should be greater than 5000 Ohms. Results: OK - The resistances are greater than 5000 Ohms. Proceed to Test Step 7. NOT OK - The resistance is not greater than 5000 Ohms on at least one of the readings. Repair: The wire harness has failed. Repair the wire harness and/or the connector or replace the wire harness and/or the connector. Stop. Test Step 7. CHECK THE CIRCUIT OF THE WORK TOOL PILOT SOLENOID FOR A SHORT TO + BATTERY Measure the resistance at the wire harness connector from contact 24 (wire 126-PK) to the following contacts: contact 1, contact 11, contact 13, contact 42, contact 47, contact 58, contact 60, contact 62 and contact 70. Expected Result: The resistances should be greater than 5000 Ohms. Results: OK - The resistances are greater than 5000 Ohms. Proceed to Test Step 8. NOT OK - The resistance is not greater than 5000 Ohms on at least one of the readings. Repair: The wire harness has failed. Repair the wire harness and/or the connector or replace the wire harness and/or the connector. Stop. Test Step 8. CHECK THE CIRCUIT OF THE WORK TOOL PILOT SOLENOID FOR A SHORT TO + BATTERY Measure the resistance at the wire harness connector from contact 66 (wire 975-WH) to the following contacts: contact 1, contact 11, contact 13, contact 42, contact 47, contact 58, contact 60, contact 62 and contact 70. Expected Result: The resistances should be greater than 5000 Ohms. Results: OK - The resistances are greater than 5000 Ohms. Repair: The ECM is very unlikely to have failed. Reconnect all connections and visually inspect the wire harness. Verify that the diagnostic code still exists. If the diagnostic code still exists perform the Test Steps again.Replace the ECM, if the cause of the diagnostic code was not found after the second attempt. See Testing and Adjusting, "Electronic Control Module (ECM) - Replace". Stop. NOT OK - The resistance is not greater than 5000 Ohms on at least one of the readings. Repair: The wire harness has failed. Repair the wire harness and/or the connector or replace the wire harness and/or the connector. Stop. Test Step 9. CHECK FOR A FLASHING PARKING BRAKE INDICATOR AND/OR A FLASHING ARMREST INDICATOR AFTER THE SYSTEM IS ENABLED Note: The seat will still need to be occupied and the armrest will need to be down. The key start switch will also need to be in the ON position. Press and release the parking brake switch. Expected Result: The armrest indicator and the parking brake indicator should be off. Results: OK - The armrest indicator and the parking brake indicator are off. Repair: There is no problem at this time. Stop. NOT OK - Both indicators are flashing. Proceed to Test Step 10. NOT OK - The parking brake indicator is flashing. Repair: See Troubleshooting, "Parking Brake Indicator Is Flashing". Stop. NOT OK - The armrest indicator is flashing. Repair: See Troubleshooting, "Armrest Indicator Is Flashing". Stop. Test Step 10. CHECK THE RETURN SOLENOID WIRE FOR AN OPEN CIRCUIT Turn the key start switch to the OFF position. Raise the cab. See Operation and Maintenance Manual, "Cab Tilting". Locate the interlock ECM. The interlock ECM is located on the left side of the machine beneath the access cover on the floor of the machine. Remove the wire harness from the ECM. Measure the resistance from contact 29 to contact 68 (wire H416-GN to wire 975-WH) of the wire harness connector. Expected Result: The resistance should be approximately 11 Ohms. Results: OK - The resistance is approximately 11 Ohms. Repair: There is more than one problem. Start by troubleshooting one of the fault indicators. See Troubleshooting, "Parking Brake Indicator Is Flashing" or Troubleshooting, "Armrest Indicator Is Flashing". Stop. NOT OK - The resistance is considerably greater than 11 Ohms. Repair: There is an open in the return solenoid wire. Check all connections. Repair the wire harness and/or the connector or replace the wire harness and/or the connector.
Also i should add that my aux. hydraulics have not been working. Thinking this might have something to do with that as well.
I’ve seen the ECM under the floor plate take on water due to corrosion between the sections and cause interlock issues like you’re seeing. On on specifically I was able to open the ECM, dry it out, clean and reseal the ECM halves and machine functioned normally again. That ECM is in a poor location IMO.
I agree it is a terrible location, the housings of the ecms look pretty rough however when i removed the connector the pins were dry and clean. Being that ive found continuity where it shouldnt be in the wiring harness i was leaning toward either the harness or the work tool pilot solenoid.
Continue on, just sharing my experiences.
Thank you for that, by the way how did the ECM come apart? just prying?
Took screws out, carefully separated. The mud corrodes the aluminum behind the sealer and you end up with water intrusion.
Does anyone have access to the Cat troubleshooting tree for this Serial #ZSA00436 for the parking brake light/armrest indicator flashing? It seems that the one listed above that i have been following does not have the same Wire pin outs as what is on my Electrical schematic. Thank you.
In addition i did remove both ECM's and both had water intrusion from the housings being corroded through. Cleaned them as best i could with contact cleaner and dried them out.. looking to verify my wiring is good and solenoids are good before i Spend the $$ on ECM's..
What reference of electrical schematic are you using.?
RENR6419-06 September 2014... This is the one you sent me awhile back..
Just checking....... I'll see if I can find a procedure for your Serial Number. TBH if you have had signifcant water ingress into the ECMs they are probably toast.
Appreciate the help.. The interlock ECM had significant GFS build up on the ciruit board and minimal amount of moisture on it. The other ECM which i beleive is for work tools had alot of water in it, enough that when i opened it and turned it over it poured out water. Both of these ECM's are around $4500 each and i dont think ill get much for core credit due to the damage on the housings. I looked into having them rebuilt but only found one company out of florida ( ECM engeneering usa) They want full payment in advance to do it which sounds a little off to me. If anyone on here has any info on here about them or a similar company that rebuilds ECM's that would be great. Thanks
Update here.. Using the troubleshooting Parking Brake Indicator and Armrest Indicator Are Flashing (RENR6417-01) Both the parking brake light and armrest lights are flashing. Test step 2 checks good with OL on the meter From Pin 3-pin68 on the ECM connector. Test step 6- Not good.. Continuity from Pin 24 (work tool pilot output) to pin 29 (Hydro pilot output) 17.5 Ohms. Should be OL When the Hydro solenoid is unplugged it goes to OL from pins 24-29 on the ECM connector. With just the work tool solenoid unplugged i have 65 ohms from pins 24-29 on the ECM connector. Unplugged both the work tool and Hydro solenoids and checked continuity from one to the other.. Hydro pilot Pin2 (output B+ from ECM) to Work tool Pin 1 (Common Ground) = 55ohms Looks to me as the B+ pin1 wire for the work tool solenoid is shorted to the Pin2 common ground for the hydro solenoid somewhere in the harness. I will verify my measurements tonight and start looking for the short in the harness. More updates to come.
Update: The troubleshooting Used to find the issue above was incorrect. Step 6 is not correct when compared to the Electrical shematic. I double checked all my wiring resistances and Ohmed out all the solenoids again. Checks good. I ended up sending Both my Interlock and AUX ecm's to GO ECM repair in Texas. They called today and said Both Ecm's are non repairable due to water damage. They also sell Refurbished ecm's and have them in stock however when i asked about them needing additional programming they stated they will need to be programmed to the machine and they could not connect to my old ecm's to transfer anything over due to the damage.. Nige i know in previous posts you stated that the Interlock ECM was Plug and play.. If this is true im not sure what they would need programmed. If they werent half the price of going to CAT i wouldnt consider it. Any advice on programming is apprciated.
It is. See my reply in Post #85 of this THREAD . If you check the electrical schematic you will see that the Datalink wiring in the machine harness does not connect to the 154-4233 Interlock ECM - therefore it is not externally flashable. The AUX HYD ECM is a different kettle of prawns altogether. 216-0568 is the Part Number of a blank unpgrammed ECM. The Datalink wires DO CONNECT to this ECM and it is externally programmable. The software flash file P/N is a 284-3058. Also available in the Cat system is a 284-3059 Part Number which is a 216-0658 ECM pre-flashed with the 284-3059 software. I can't see a Cat dealer Service Dept being too keen to program an aftermarket ECM with Cat software, unless of course it is such a good copy that it appears as though it is in fact a Cat ECM......
Thanks Nige, Just to confirm what i am seeing in the electrical schematic the AUX ECM would have nothing to do with movement of the machine/ lift arm fuctions or parking brake? I am thinking if i can start with replacing just the interlock ecm first and get this machine moving and able to use for now.
Look closer at the schematic. For example the armrest switch is an input to the AUX HYD ECM, as are the parking brake and 2-speed switches. The title of the ECM is somewhat of a misnomer, because if it is the AUX ECM, where is the primary one.? That's right, there isn't one...... The 216-0658 ECM has inputs/outputs to pretty much all functions related to the hystat and implement systems.
Update: Ordered Both refurbished ECM's from GO ECM and took them over to my local CAT dealer. They programmed the AUX ECM and verified the interlock is Plug and play and ready to go. Installed both ECM's and machine is now working as it should. The only issue i have now is the parking brake light in the cab is not illuminating however the parking brake is working and releasing normally. Glad to get this machine back working again and thanks for all the help guys..
Nice to hear a dealer being supportive when the part in question wasn't bought from them. I'm not going to ask what they charged you.......... Good of them, but we already knew that. Only thing I can suggest to prevent a repeat is keep the area around both those ECMs dry and SUPER clean in future.
Did GO ECM charge you to verify if your Ecm's were repairable?
I believe i just paid for shipping them there.
Hello looking for some help I’m having pretty much the same issues as shown above by lockjz. The machine I am working on is a 287b ser.zsa00615. i am working on this machine for a friend, originally he was using it and lost all use of the work equipment but it would still travel.I lifted the cab and gave 12v to pilot solenoid to get the arms back down to the ground. So far I have cleaned the cab ground straps, checked all fuses,verified that the alternator is charging, checked operation of the door switch and lap bar (the seat sensor has been bypassed), checked operation of park brake switch and work equipment lockout switch as well. found a few wires with rodent damage in the LH joystick harness and one on the machine side of the joystick harness. repaired machine side and have a joystick harness on order. I also found one chewed wire (following diagram RENR6419-06) my chewed wire was h416-a6 gn-18 to sol xmsn 195-9700 repaired that wire.looked over the rest of the harness and found nothing visibly damaged. we were able to get the machine moved to a workable spot to work on I replaced both solenoids on the rh and lh joysticks with cat pn 195-9700 with no results. The machine will now only operate for about 20 minutes now and then lockout and lose work equipment and travel. I have a flickering orange Icon on the rh indicator panel #8 on the above shown drawing I also will add I have no park brake indicator light on the lh panel but it does illuminate during the bulb check at key on. I will follow the troubleshooting instructions for park brake flashing and lap bar flashing. I also will add sometimes during operation the park brake switch, lap bar and work equipment lock switch do nothing as in I can drive and use the arms with the lap bar up operate the arms with the switch locked or press the park brake and continue to travel once the machine locks out it will not do anything even after restarting so I feel I have a connection somewhere that is heating up and breaking contact nothing seems to influence the issue like slamming the bucket or uphill or downhill travel just time running about 20-25 minutes each time. Any help Is appreciated
After reading your story above it sounds to me as though you could potentially be fighting either a wiring or connection issue, could be caused by corrosion/green crusties, could be heat. It could also be internal in an electronic control. One thing you do not mention is the condition of the Interlock Control and the AUX ECM. Both of them are located under the floor and usually suffer badly from exposure to dirt and/or water ingress. How about some photos.? Your flashing light #8 is the Interlock Override warning light. It should either be OFF or ON, no fliickering allowed. Therein lies your problem I think. The input to the AUX ECM from the Implement Lockout Switch is wire G982 Pink. Back to the paragraph above though, and the problem could be INSIDE the AUX ECM. It might pay you to focus on the internal condition of that component. A suggestion for testing continuity of wires, especially in light of the fact that you have already found evidence of rodent damage. A wire can be almost cut through and pass a continuity test using a multimeter but be totally unable to pass any sort of meaningful current. In these case I always suggest disconnecting both ends of the wire you want to test and connect one end of it to machine frame ground. Then use a fused 5A test light connected to Batt+ to apply power to the other end of the wire. If it will pass a current of 5A then I would say that you can call it good with a high degree of confidence.
I did run thru the troubleshooting in the above posts and record what I found not entirely sure I did it correctly. i also removed the plugs on each ecm both plugs looked clean and dry
I see a fair amount of crud around the ECMs in your photos. Is it possible that water has penetrated either one or the other of them.? Also gave a close look for Part Numbers to see if they are genuine or not.
The interior of the ECM looks a little second hand. Actually a lot, which could be as a result of the hole in the casing. I never asked this earlier but when you start the engine does the radiator cooling fan start spinning immediately.?