Need help I just purchased 289C cat 2 speed 3,700 hours When traveling and low speed No matter what RPM Machine will slow down travel speed on its own If you return the control to neutral and start over it will speed back up then it will repeat after a few minutes . Any help Will be appreciated ! Thanks in advance (I do not have any technical tools Or code reader’s for caterpillar )
I just joined this forum to investigate this exact issue for new to me cat287 C2 with 2089hrs. It is the worst when first started. If I throttle it up it will move out but probably not max speed. Seems to reverse fine when it slows going forward and the work tool moves fine. Are you experiencing the same?
Same problem anyone find solution? I read everywhere from hydro filter to sensor on drives… but no first hand knowledge, and usually no one come back on to say how they fixed it. Any help would be appreciated!
Serial number?
CAT0289CCJMP03044
Do you have the auxiliary panel on your machine that enables you to see the Diagnostic Fault Codes.? According to the system that Serial Number does not but I know a lot were installed after manufacture so worth the ask. If you don't have that panel the best thing you can do is get Cat ET hooked up to the machine (either by dealer or a local independent mechanic) and have them: - a) Check for Active Diagnostic Codes and, b) download a copy of the Product Status Report (PSR). They can give you a copy of that document in Adobe pdf format. The PSR will include all Active & Logged Diagnositc Codes and Diagnostic Events. Once you know what's there now in the way of Codes and what was there before you'll be in a far better place to figure out what's going on.
On reading through the various messages I found a hydraulic schematic that Nige had provided previously in this forum. I spent some time to understand it. I read electrical all day but that didn't help as much as I thought it would. I mostly understand but just the schematic is not enough. I spent some more time watching videos and reading about hydraulic systems, static and variable. I have a rudimentary knowledge so now I think I am ready to start troubleshooting the system. My machine has no panel and no alert for codes in operation. I want to buy hydraulic pressure gauge set and hook up to the ports. Any suggestions please? I will add that while I haven't tested the fluid it is clean and clear. I replaced the filter and dissected the old one. No metal anywhere. This is a good sign. I have my suspicions about what might be the problem but need the gauges to gather more information before replacing parts.
I think you may be jumping the gun somewhat. I suggest that you need to look at the electronics as regards Diagnostic Codes before you go into the hydraulic/hydrostatic side. If you don’t have the auxiliary panel then finding someone with ET to hook up to the machine is your first challenge.
This is true. I have not spent much time to consider how the electronics interact with the hydraulics. My thinking was that the pressures would guide me to an area of interest but a diagnostic read on the machine first makes sense. For reference the machine (which I recently purchased) is cat 287C MTL 0287CTMAS01631. Is the diagnostics something that has to be done by cat or do heavy equipment shops have access to this? Is it like OBD where there is a std?
The diagnostics do not necessarily have to be done by a Cat dealer, plenty of independents have the same capability. However it does require Cat Electronic Technician (ET) software and a communication adapter to connect the machine to a laptop. The Cat communication protocol standard is similar to OBD but it is different.
Is it possible to download a schematic of the electronics from some online source? My background is electronics so I would like to understand this even if the diagnostic check doesn't yield a code.
I’ll send you a copy of the electrical schematic. Keep an eye on your PM’s.
Sounds like a possible throttle position sensor on the pedal. If I so remember right it will not put up a code. A new one must be calibrated with ET.
Possible, but it would still require ET to monitor the position of the TPS to check whether or not it was not performing as expected. EDIT: From what I can see the TPS would generate any of the following Codes - MID039 CID0091 FMI03 (voltage above normal), FMI04 (voltage below normal), or FMI08 (signal frequency or pulse width outside expected range). A uncalibrated replacement TPS would shown an FMI13 (requires calibration) Diagnostic Code
It could there was a service letter for it causing trouble that one you let 9ff and push the control again it would go again with out a code. If I still had access id go find it. There's a chance I'm thinking of something else.
Well look what we have here............ Check the title of the article. Sounds as though the fix could be nothing more complicated than recalibrating the TPS. Unfortunately for the OP that will still require the use of ET.
Thanks for the reply’s! Looks like I need to find someone with the cat ET to check the tps! That diagnosis module you mentioned, is it something I can buy and add on?
It is, but it comes in a box with a Cat logo on it don't expect it to be cheap. Let me find the instruction for installing it. the install is simple but (again) it will need ET to program the module. EDIT: The only upgrade kit I can locate at after a quick trawl is for D-Series, your machine is a C. It might pay to speak to your dealer and ask if there is a similar upgrade kit for C Series or if the D-Series kit can be installed on a C machine. See attachment.
Quite the involved letter that one is. Once I got think ing back to mine it wouldn't go do to the linkage being right till I did some major adjustments. I bought 2 sensor till it was over. The not so bad one now lives in the case with the lap top and comm adaptor.
One question regarding machines without the diagnostic display. If there is a code on the machine doesn't it have a way to indicate to the operator that a code is stored? Like the check engine light on a car. I guess I am wondering why it is necessary to connect ET just to find out if you have codes, but then not surprised if that is the case.
There is an Exclamation Point (aka Master Fault Light) on the Monitor Panel. It should light up along with all the other indicators on the panel when you first turn the key on as a self-test, then go out if there are no Active Codes. The big HOWEVER in all this though is what are known as Logged Codes, meaning they were Active once but are not Active at this time. A Logged Code can be very useful as a diagnostic guide even though it is not Active. Without either ET or the secondary panel there is no way of seeing Logged Codes. Here's a question. Do you have an Operation & Maintenance Manual for your machine.? It should live in the pocket behind the seat but on uised machines it's often AWOL. You can download an O&M Manual (Pub. Ref. SEBU7494) from Cat in pdf form for $49 if you are interested. It would probably be the best money you ever spend on the machine. EDIT: I just realized that your particular machine is a very early model (effectively an A model although the decals do not show it) not a C as per the thread title which was started by someone else and you piggy-backed on to it. You don't even have the Master Fault Light on your machine, neither do you have the TPS mounted on the throttle pedal. So as regards the root cause of your symptoms we are well & truly back to Square 1.
Nige, the serial number containing C does not indicates it is 287C? It does have the exclamation point when turning key on along with the other lights. My full serial number is 0287CTMAS01631. If this is not a C then it is square one and if no tps then most of the previous discussion on the current theory would not apply. I will say since nobody has commented here they resolved their problem by recalibrating TPS, it is not proven as root cause. I did download an O&M manual but not the one you listed. I will find that one. It is very useful.
Sorry, call it a senior moment. I was convinced your Serial Number was CMP03044 when in fact it is MAS01631. Your machine is indeed a C model, so all the previous information regarding the TPS, etc, etc (basically everything apart from what I posted 3 posts above) applies to your machine. Your applicable O&M Manual is in fact SEBU8020. $69 for a pdf download from Cat.
Update on the slowdown issue My 289C has. Service guy from Cat came out to diagnose the problem, and found the slowdown button throwing a code, he was very confident that was the problem, and ordered up a new switch. Fingers crossed, I will give an update after it’s replaced!
Hope that works for you. I have been complacent on updating here. I did get CAT ET setup and connected to my machine to investigate any issues. There some logged codes. 1704-5,6 and 1705-5,6 which are Left Drive Pump Reverse control solenoid current above and below normal and Right drive pump forward solenoid current above and below normal. These were probably set by me as I did reseat some of the connectors trying to make sure everything was connected. I decided to proceed with the TPS calibration in any case. I did not finish the calibration though. The procedure requires the user to step through a range of RPM with the foot control and input to the ET when the RPM are in the threshold. The last step was to get RPM above 2850 but with the pedal fully depressed I could only manage 2800 or there abouts. I looked for adjustments to the throttle cable etc...and found that the lever was hitting the stop on the injector pump. There is a threaded screw but I don't see a way to turn it in, rather back it up. There is a metal cap on the other side. I am wondering if this is proper or if that is a hard stop that was threaded in? Any inputs on manual adjust to get more RPM?
A good practice when using ET is to produce a Product Status Report (PSR) before you touch anything. That gives you a baseline to work from. The PSR is an Adobe pdf document that details every parameter on each ECM of the machine at the moment it was downloaded. Then once you have meddled with connections, etc, download another copy of th ePSR and compare the two. The Diagnostic Codes and/or Events that you caused by doing whatever tests or repairs you did will be blindingly obvious. I'll have a look for anything regarding the cable adjustment.
100%. I had futzed around with the connectors before I could spell CAT ET, so learning as I go here. It's not bad software and facilitates baseline as you indicated. Appreciate the inputs.
Agreed. it's not exactly intuitive either. I didn't know whether or not you had come across the PSR yet while exploring the capabilities of ET.
It might pay you to have a look at this, or even disconnect on of the cables, either hand or foot control, to see whether or not it's the cable setup that is holding the maximum throttle setting of the governor back. EDITA: I'm sure someone posted something not long ago regarding setting the cables on these machines but I'm damned if I can find it now.
Try this thread.............. HeavyEquipmentForums
Well, he replaced the slowdown switch, and that did not fix the problem. I mentioned to the tech that the TPS is historically the problem with this machine on the forums, but he didn’t think it was worth recalibrating because he checked and it was reading properly, a He said everything electrical looked perfect, and it must be a hydraulic issue, he is pretty sure the slow down is the main hydraulic pump, and took a hydraulic oil test. Said they will more than likely be able to figure out the problem by the test…
Check out that linked thread for an updated TPS which your machine probably doesn't have. Also note one poster was failing to successfully calibrate a TPS because of a worn/stretched throttle cable. Also note Chrisso's comment....... "Keep in mind this [TPS] is still only one possibility... there's at least half a dozen things that could cause the same issue though".
Got the hydro oil test back from cat, the result could not be better, they said there are no signs of and major hydraulic components failing, and said the sample was remarkable for the machines age. Good news except now Im back to square one. He previously said the electrical looked 100%, and the oil test would show what was failing, but now he says it must be an electrical gremlin, or a simple clog in a line or something. I sent the Cat technician the TPS document you brought up Nige, Thank you by the way! he has emailed Cat to get more info, for instance that document does not explain if by “slow down to a stop” it means- 1. Rpm slowdown down or 2. Speed of machine slowdown only while maintaining rpm. Because the slowdown to a stop “is” while maintaining the rpm. Happens even with the tracks off. Any ideas if it could be a simple clogged pressure relief somewhere?
Chrisso would be the best guy to answer that question. From the tone of his postings I would guess he has personal experience of the problem.
It's tricky to explain, but here's what I understand... These are electronically controlled hydrostatic systems that use a software "underspeed" strategy. The underspeed is basically a calculation made by your machine control ECM software that sets a target RPM just under (hence the name) the desired engine RPM. As loads on the machine increase, actual RPM drops below this calculated underspeed RPM. As a result, the ECM starts easing up on the hydrostatics (slows track speed) until either... 1) Loads decrease, engine RPM increases back to above the underpeed RPM, hence tracks speed up again, or 2) Loads keep increasing, track speed keeps slowing to a stop while the engine keeps running nicely. If your TPS signal is bad, your ECM won't know you're pushing the pedal to the floor, so underspeed kicks in. If your governor cable isn't set correctly, the engine isn't getting a max RPM command to begin with, so underspeed kicks in. If you have a sticking park brake, the hydrostatic system can't overcome the load, so underspeed kicks in. You get the drift. So we need to work from the easiest/cheapest things to the most expensive things. Replace a TPS with known faults (very reason for the service letter), make sure low and high idle are set correctly, upgrade machine software, track tension, check for failing idlers, debris, then start looking at final drives, etc, etc.
Engine RPM will never slow to a stop unless there's a fault with the engine or some other mechanical fault. Underspeed is the very thing that stops this from happening. If it's happening with the tracks off well that rules a few things out that I mentioned.
Great info! I believe I understand the “underspeed” now. If I understand correctly, the TPS needs to be calibrated properly, because otherwise the TPS could be telling the ecm that it is at 50% throttle, meanwhile the cable is only pulling on actual throttle body 45%. Leaving the ecm to think the engine is running to slow, therefore engaging the “underthrottle”. If thats the case, can’t we just adjust the cable to open the throttle body more. Example (TPS says 50% but throttle body is actually 52%) therefore rpm would be too high rather than too low. Keeping the ecm from going into underspeed? I ask because I don’t have Cat ET to calibrate the tps.
That's almost it... because engine speed and TPS signal are inputs to ECMs. It makes more sense if you say... The TPS needs to be calibrated properly, because otherwise the TPS could be telling the ecm that it is at 50% throttle, meanwhile the cable is only pulling on actual governor linkage 45%. Leaving the ecm to think the engine is under more load than it actually is, therefore engaging the underspeed. Absolutely, but the catch is you need ET to see what the TPS is reading, otherwise it's guess work. Any time the governor cable is adjusted you really should be doing a TPS calibration also... unfortunately.
Excellent input back and forth by you guys. Good troubleshooting y'all are sharing...watching from the sidelines and learning slowly.
I checked the TPS, it is the newer model number. After adjusting the governor linkage to favor more throttle, the slowdown problem is allot allot better! “if” it’s still there it is barely noticeable now! Only small down side is the slow idle is around 1050 instead of 950 before. Hence why it really should be simply calibrated by the cat ET… For the most part I believe that proves the tps simply needs be calibrated. Now that I understand the underspeed system it all makes sense, thank you Chrisso for explaining it! Even the certified Cat technician doesn’t understand why the tps calibration would have anything to do with the machine slowing down… (even after I pointed him towards the Cat document mentioning the slowdown problem that Nige posted.)
Glad this forum has helped Gary! Im usually lurking on the sidelines learning in these forums myself. They are invaluable when facing questions no one asked before. This is the service pdf I came across that mentions the underspeed system on page 60. I will try to upload it incase it can help anyone else with similar problem. Funny enough Nige, after reading this service manual There is a section on page 30, describing The optional Advanced Machine Information and Control System (AMICS) that you had asked if my machine had a long time ago. I did not realize until I came across it in this manual that I do actually have that! Oops… I think using it I can actually view the TPS reading. But still cannot calibrated unfortunately. On a side note does anyone know where I can get a Cat ET? I tried searching for one and came across plenty but its ruff to sift through all the knockoff option out there.
Just 'cos someone has a Cat badge on their shirt doesn't necessarily make them any smarter than you....... I'm a mechanical engineer by profession and sometimes even I struggle to understand stuff.
And the amount of machines Cat produce, it's just impossible to fully understand all of them. But the trick is to do research before you go to a job. If he had done that, he would have shown up to the job with a new TPS at a minimum... as Nige (or someone) said in a previous post, the title of the service letter couldn't describe this problem any better "machine slows to a stop"! Only legitimate way is to go through your dealer and ask to speak to your Product Support Representative. You'll pay a yearly subscription usually.
Thanks for sharing that training manual also. Has some really good info.
Fixed!!! Thank you to everyone who helped get to the bottom of this!! After acquiring a CatET I was able to go in and calibrate the TPS. And it did in fact fix the slowdown problem! For reference to anyone who has similar problem, just a quick re-cap in hope this might help in the future. This is a Cat documented problem and I have attached the official Cat service document that outlines the problem and what Cat suggestion is to go about fixing the problem. As well as a service document that describes “Engine under speed function” on page 60. because the Cat service document by its self is vague. In the service procedure document, Cat mentions making sure the TPS sensor is the newest part number, and if not, upgrading, then re-calibrating. I found my machine to already have the newest TPS part number which is 266-1467 After spending countless of hours researching and checking for problems, I finally (with much help from this forum), tightened the throttle cable so it was intentionally pulling the throttle too much, and the slowdown issues went away. (Doing this brings the rpm high enough compared to the TPS, to prevent the ECM from kicking in the underspeed) Only problem then was the machine now idled too high. But this confirmed the problem was in fact the “under speed” system kicking in. After confirming the TPS sensor was the new model, the only thing left was to adjust the throttle cable back to proper adjustment, and re-calibrate the TPS. Using a CatET. Attached are the two pdf documents that helped me get to the bottom of this. As I mentioned above, this is a documented problem for the following machines. Hope this helps… 279C (S/N: MBT1-UP) 279C2 (S/N: KWB1-UP) 289C (S/N: JMP1-UP) 289C2 (S/N: RTD1-UP) 299C (S/N: JSP1-UP) Multi Terrain Loader 287C (S/N: MAS1-UP) 277C (S/N: JWF1-UP) 277C2 (S/N: MET1-UP) 287C2 (S/N: SSB1-UP) 297C (S/N: GCP1-UP) Skid Steer Loader 246C (S/N: JAY1-UP) 256C (S/N: DWS1-UP) 262C (S/N: MST1-UP) 262C2 (S/N: TMW1-UP) 272C (S/N: RED1-UP)
Awesome follow up. And awesome that you got it fixed. It's encouraging to know that things actually can be fixed even if it does seem to take a little bit of voodoo.
I have been following this thread and glad to hear you got your problem resolved, nice work. I took my 2008 cat 277c JWF01714 to the local cat dealer for the same issue. I provided them the service bulletin regarding this known TPS issue and for what ever reason they went on a hydraulic problem hunt. I asked them to replace the TPS and calibrate it. They changed the TPS and tell me it still won’t calibrate. So needless to say I’m out a significant amount of $$$ and am no better off than when I dropped it off. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I should go from here?
There's no such think as it won't then give up there's a reason it would they need to find it or give you your shillings back
They told me they would continue to troubleshoot but it gets expensive at $150 an hour. In hind sight should have purchased CatET and components and did it myself. May still do that and come out ahead. Just don’t know where to go if the new part won’t calibrate
Unfortunately, thats similar to what happened to me, I had Cat tech come out to calibrate the tps, he giggled when I told him I thought it was the TPS and showed him the service bulletin, tested the electronics and said everything is perfect with the electric system so did not calibrate, instead decided it must be hydraulic, took a sample to analyze, two weeks later got the results back and found everything was perfect with the hydraulics. So I was back to square one, at which point he suggested I have him come back out to calibrate and/or trouble shoot more. But it’s really big $$$$ to have them come back out and I had already spent too much not getting anywhere, thats when I decided to try to get a CatET and calibrate myself. There is no guarantee that your problem is the tps, but I would not rule it out till you get the tps successfully calibrated! I seem to remember reading a thread on here where someone was unable to get their machine to calibrate the tps. I can try to see if I can find it, but I think it came down to making sure the throttle cable’s where properly adjusted, and possibly even had to get a new cable. In said thread someone even uploaded the directions of how to do so. What I will say since I just calibrated mine the other day, is I believe when it wont calibrate, it’s because the rpm is not capable of reaching the targeted rpm that is specified. Example… it requires the rpm to hit (950 to 1050 “hit next” 1250 to 1459 “hit next” 2050 to 2250) don’t quote me on the numbers but you get the point. The other things it requires to calibrate where simple, like hydraulic temp above 104, engine temp above 140. Unfortunately without having the CatET yourself, you may have to ask the tech to get to the bottom of why it won’t calibrate. Edit: I was able to find the thread I was referring to, but I don’t know the best way to link bear with me. Thread titled “299C Loosing travel speed” HeavyEquipmentForums
Thank you for the feedback Drago663. I greatly appreciate it. I completely agree that until the TPS is calibrated before moving on. Based on the the machines display RPM were within spec, both high and low. However in the diagnostics screen, the TPS indicated 35% with no throttle and 100% with the pedal fully depressed. I understand that although it provides this info the ECM maybe seeing something different. Another bit of info, although this maybe normal, is the hand throttle has a “spongy” feel to it at max throttle. If you push it up all the way, you get slight resistance as if you were compressing a spring. When you release the hand throttle the handle will slide down a bit and stop. Maybe a change of 100 rpm. I guess what I’m trying to say is the handle throttle will not stay at the max throttle stop bracket. You can then press the pedal and get that rpm back. It appears that the ECM is communicating with TPS which has me leaning towards cables, but not certain.
How did you go about obtaining the software and communication adapters?
The way I understand the tps calibration, and I am no expert so grain of salt and all that, I believe it doesn’t matter what the tps reads as long as you can hit the requested rpm in the calibration, thats why it has to be calibrated. So the computer knows what rpm to expect at what %. (Again sounds like the same problem as that forum I referenced.) As for the throttle handle, that pulls on the pedal, so as long as the pedal and throttle cable is setup, properly, the handle is none consequential. You could completely remove it if needed to eliminate it as a factor in calibrating the tps. As for it dropping rpm, you can Tighten it so it doesn’t loosen. Unless the drop in rpm is in the cable or linkage. Again it should be none consequential to the tps calibration
No worries, I’m no expert either. From the service manual excerpts I found on the forum the TPS has to have a valid range between 5% to 95% duty cycle. I assume that means 5% to 95% of the 500Hz signal sent to the ECM. So if I understand correctly, although the engine rpms, both low and high, are in spec if the TPS is outside that range it won’t calibrate. You think a worn cable might cause that? Does anyone have the service manual section Systems Operation “Sensors”?
When I did mine I on the last step I had to give the linkage a bit of a nudge to be in spec. Probably not totally proper but it's been working fine.
The % is not determined by frequency (the frequency remains constant) but on the width of the square wave pulse, hence the name Pulse Width Modulated". See below.
Thank you for the comments gentlemen. Nige, you are absolutely correct. After posting I started researching duty cycle and learned it’s the percentage of the time on just as the image you posted shows. I really appreciate all the assistance and guidance you guys have provided. I am really starting to lean towards a worn cable. That’s the only thing I can think of that that keeps the governor and TPS in sync within their respected tolerances. Thoughts?
A worn cable, and/ or worn linkage on the pedal, its more complex than one might think. Sounds like there might be something preventing your pedal from opening all that way. I would disconnect the throttle cable from the governor (its really easy to pop off) and see if you can adjust the pedal to work within the tps % specs needed, that way you eliminated the cable as a problem. If you still can’t get the tps in spec, and the tps is new, the only thing left would be the pedal linkage I believe.
Tyler, Please excuse my ignorance, when you say gave the linkage a nudge what are you referring to? Are you identifying the combination of the throttle pedal linkage and the pedal cable s the “linkage”? I know that prior to taking the machine in the diagnostic screen showed the TPS % as 35% with the pedal up and 100% when fully depressed. Not sure how accurate that is as one poster mentioned that the display and Cat ET showed different readings.
I can’t see that TBH, unless I’m missing something somewhere. ET simply sucks the same data from the machine ECM which is going from the ECM to the display over the onboard datalink.
Thanks for the input Nige. This was the thread I was referring to. Maybe that’s an anomaly. So if the display was showing 100% that would indicate an out of range situation.?
When ever I was calibrating it it was off a bit and I grabbed the linkage and pulled or pushed and made it right and then hit next
I see. Thanks for the clarification Tyler
Like I said before it may not be proper but it hasn't caused trouble since.
Update: Dealer telling me they narrowed it down to the foot pedal. Ordering a rebuild kit. Apparently there is something wrong with a spring? Hopefully this will allow the TPS to calibrate so I can get on to the next repair
"I seem to remember reading a thread on here where someone was unable to get their machine to calibrate the tps. I can try to see if I can find it, but I think it came down to making sure the throttle cable’s where properly adjusted, and possibly even had to get a new cable. In said thread someone even uploaded the directions of how to do so. What I will say since I just calibrated mine the other day, is I believe when it wont calibrate, it’s because the rpm is not capable of reaching the targeted rpm that is specified. Example… it requires the rpm to hit (950 to 1050 “hit next” 1250 to 1459 “hit next” 2050 to 2250) don’t quote me on the numbers but you get the point. The other things it requires to calibrate where simple, like hydraulic temp above 104, engine temp above 140. Unfortunately without having the CatET yourself, you may have to ask the tech to get to the bottom of why it won’t calibrate." I was also able to re-calibrate the TPS and fix my machine slowing/stopping issue. I purchased CAT ET and got familiar with that and checked some other things before trying to perform the calibration. When I did perform calibration I was getting an error 0101 on the last RPM range. The RPM was correct but I noted that the TPS was reading ~93% to get the desired RPM. I adjusted the throttle cable (as suggested in the error message) so that I could get to the desired RPM with 90% TPS and finished the calibration successfully. One other thing to note. I could not find a part number and don't know what TPS is installed.
So I thought I would follow up in the event someone else runs into this problem. What finally fixed it was a new accelerator pedal assembly. Replacing it allowed the TPS to calibrate. According to tech the existing accelerator was not returning to full up to allow the TPS to get to the 5%. They tell me it calibrated and is working as it should with no slowing down. Hopefully be picking it up tomorrow. I would like to thank you all for your input and insight into getting this resolved. I look forward to contributing to fellow forum mates as I continue down this journey of equipment ownership.
That’s awesome Quiki22! I know what a relief it is to finally have it fixed after so much time and effort So I was right about the peddle not opening all the way, I may have had that problem as well, but before I was able to calibrate the tps (because I did not have a CatET yet), I took apart cleaned and adjusted the pedal in the process of making sure I had the updated tps sensor. (You cannot check the tps model without completely removing it)(and you cannot remove it without taking the pedal completely out, and disconnecting it) You should tell your Cat dealer, if they re-adjusted the pedal and throttle cable properly, after they installed your new tps, they would have noticed the pedal not opening all the way then!
Thanks Drago, Tech said there was a spring that was broken and apparently a kit to rebuild the assembly but the spring was not part of the kit and not sold by itself. So I had no choice but to have the whole thing replaced. Hopefully it will last for a while so I can save up for the next challenge.
It'd stuff like this that rubs me the wrong way couldn't spend 10 minutes to find a spring to fix something to save a customer some money nor saying it was possible in this case
Yea, I hear you Tyler. It really is discouraging. That’s why I’m glad there are places like this that you can bounce ideas around and get feedback because more than likely someone has come across it before. I just need to bite the bullet and get my own adapter and software along with service manual so I can trouble shoot myself And hopefully help others along the way. Just got to build up some resources after this expense. I’ll chalk it up to a learning experience. A painful one, but a lesson none the less.
I suppose it maybe the fact that I grew up repairing on a budget from the time I could walk
I ran into this issue about a year ago and i forgot to write my experience with it. I remember that i couldn’t successfully run the throttle calibration. I had to mess with the linkage at the pedal and also the handle by the door. Then i also messed with the linkage at the throttle while i was doing the calibration to get it to successfully pass after that the issue went away.