I’m having issues with my Cat 289C2 my park and brake not wanting to release after I parked it for a few days. I noticed that it seemed like my brakes were dragging here and there and I was losing power. Is there a way I can bypass this just to get it on the trailer and bring it to the caterpillar dealer I live in a very remote area Can anybody help me with this. I would also like a schematic of solenoid locations, especially the park and brake location on the valve assembly, I hope I’m saying that right.
I would like to add that it will start and when I press the park brake switch I am able to operate the bucket in all positions, but I am not able to get the park and break to turn off to where I can move forward backwards, etc. I did check all of the forward and reverse solenoids. they seem to be working fine when I put 12 V to them I did not do resistance test
Keep an eye on your messages. I'll send you an electrical schematic. Resistance values for solenoid coils will be on it somewhere. Unfortunately not. You either fix the problem or you are reduced to dragging it. Post a photo of the upper RH dash panel in your machine. It may be possible to access Diagnostic Codes from that panel.
My machine is a 2013 and it doesn’t have a right hand panel. I did check the parking brake switch and cleaned it.
I really do appreciate your help.
Your machine has the RH panel with the single gauge. That’s the only one of 3different designs of panel where it’s not possible to access Codes via the panel.
TBH the fastest & best thing you could do is get someone with ET to hook up to the machine, read the Codes, and download a copy of the Product Status Report.
The “safety” lockouts for the drive system and for the implements are completely separate and contain no linked/common components. The only thing that affects the implements are the door switch and the seat switch.
When i change the hydraulic/hydrostatic fluid and filters for this machine should I flush it first? Is it normal to flush the unit each time you change out the fluid in the filters? If I am to flush it, what is the process? Thank you for your effort to make this a great forum
I would suggest the most cost-effective way is to have a sample analyzed of the actual hydraulic oil in the system right now. Your local Cat dealer will charge maybe about $50 for this service and it should include a particle count which will indicate the level of particle contamination. They sell kits including a sample bottle and all the necessary to take a sample When you get the results back a look at them will determine whether the system needs any further action over and above a filter change.
Thank you, kind, sir, I lost a lot of hydraulic fluid bust hose after a didn’t know it. I want to put new hydraulic oil in it and I’m going to change the filter anyway. I will drain the old hydraulic oil that is left and then replace it with New T-04 oil. Do you think I will have a problem with air in the lines?
It all depends on how much oil you lost I guess. Just have to make sure the pumps are well primed with oil before you hit the starter, then be careful using the implements & drive system until you are sure all the air has been expelled. Don't run the cylinders full stroke and keep a close eye on the oil level in the tank.
What would be the best way to bleed the system of all the air. I did crack the break hose on top of the hydrostatic transmission and let it bleed a few times. It has some air. I am not getting any action for the left arms and bucket movement after I change the filter and the hydraulic fluid. Should I look at all connections and bleed them? And does the machine need to be running when I do this thank you sir
Was just commenting to ask where the reverse solenoids are on these machines . Are they right on the final drives ?
No they are mounted on the hystat pump.
Not great pictures here but this is beside the track
That’s the drive motor speed sensor.
Found it in the back. Worn out deutch connector
That’s a new one. How do Deutsch connectors “wear out”.? The cab would have to be raised to gain access to the fwd/rev solenoids. They are right there on top of the pump assembly.
Someone ruined the plastic retaining clip and it no longer held in place . Light finger pressure and it fell right out of the solenoid . Hopefully the pins in the solenoid are not shot , but new sockets and connector seemed to fix it up and it held tight after .
Ah, operator error in that case. Now all becomes clear. Without that locking clip vibration can easily separate the two halves of the connector.
I Jerry rig zip ties to hold connections together but do they make a special zip tie that works better or differently? I capture a zip-tie between the 2 housings, then cinch the zip tie together. It takes 3 small zip ties but curious if someone has a better way or a better zip tie. I have tried some different zip ties and different orientation but always go back to my original fix. I don’t like pinching wires and pulling on them with other zip ties.
It’s easy to replace either the plug or the receptacle of any Deutsch DT connector from 2-pin up to 12-pin. Unpinning them is a doddle, you just have to remember which wire goes in which hole….. Temporarily “fixing” a damaged connector in position with zip ties is perfectly acceptable, it’s just not a permanent solution IMO.
Should have started my own thread, on how to Mickey Mouse Deutch and Weatherpack connectors, that blind people broke the tabs on. Best way to Zip Tie back together. Especially, if your eyes are so bad, you can’t use a de-pinning tool. lol