Hey guys, I just got a well used Cat 289D and am working on fixing it up. The last thing I'm working on is trying to figure out the source of two codes: 600-3 hydraulic oil temperature sensor voltage above normal 1076-5 engine cooling fan bypass solenoid current below normal Digging through the service and operator manual PDFs I got hasn't shown anything relevant that I can see, and the Cat parts site doesn't list any parts with those names (which I assume are generic names related to the code). Does anyone have any tips on where I might start trying to track these two issues down? I assume there is a wire harness or sensor that needs replaced but not sure what I'm actually looking for. Thanks guys
Serial # is TAW03820 Looks like perhaps the hydraulic oil sensor is Cat part 264-4297 which is about $50 and appears to be easy to get to with the cab up, can anyone confirm if that sounds right?
I wouldn't throw parts at it yet. Have seen wiring issues in both those areas of the machine. I haven't had SIS access in a few years so I can't pull up any procedures to troubleshoot but usually it'll give you a quick procedure to test the wiring. The fan bypass solenoid is the solenoid located by the fan. From what I remember, oil normally flows through the fan motor and when the solenoid is energized, it lets oil bypass the motor. Kind of a failsafe in the event of an electrical failure. The wiring isn't always supported well to the solenoid and I've seen dozens of instances on that particular model where the hot exhaust melts the wiring harness around the DPF and difuser pipe. Can't remember if the fan wiring runs through that area or not. In any case I'd advise getting your hands on a troubleshooting guide to verify if these issues are wiring or the component attached to the wiring.
Peeked under the cab with a flashlight and I can see the hydraulic oil temp sensor wire is unplugged, so that's an easy fix. thanks @92U 3406 - will look for the fan solenoid next
If my memory is correct, it should be mounted right on the fan motor itself on the bottom of the rad package.
Maybe it is unplugged for a reason.? If reconnecting the harness causes the 600-3 to change to 600-"something else" then post up the new Code. Attached is the procedure for troubleshooting 1076-5.
Hmm, yes, the fan solenoid wire was hanging down too. Will plug both in and see what codes reappear if any... thanks for the help guys, guess I shoulda just looked a little more!
Very strange. I think unplugging the fan solenoid makes the fan run full send all the time. I don't want to assume but hydraulic temperature might play a roll in determining fan speed. I'm wondering what the underlying issue here might be?
Unplugging the fan solenoid will make the fan run at full speed all the time.
Maybe the complete cooling package (radiator + hyd oil cooler) needs disassembly and a thorough cleaning.?
Good idea; the coolant overflow bottle was empty and I added about a quart of ELC to the radiator already so it's possible there is a cooling system issue (or just lack of maintenance over time)
That whole package mounted on top of the engine is so tightly wrapped that a complete disassembly is often the best/only way to get it clean and restore full airflow over the radiator and cooler.
FYI, after plugging the sensors back in a month ago and running the machine for many hours in various conditions/weather, the errors never returned. I periodically get a "lift linkage sensor above normal" that pops up and goes away before I can take note of exactly what it says, will need to get the Cat ET out and check the logs but otherwise the machine is running great. Thanks everyone
Good to hear. Did you eventually pull the radiator/cooler package apart and clean it.? Probably a wonky connection somewhere, or damp in the works. Seeing as it comes and goes it might be problematic to run down.
Checked the radiator and it all looked clean - it seems as though the plugs just came undone. Who knows why but it runs fine now and I've been upgrading and maintaining it - switched to the Advanced Display, figured out how to add an aftermarket backup camera that works like OEM on the display, etc
Oooh that's a big assumption that might come back to bite you. Those particular cooling packages are so short of space the only real way they can be inspected to see whether or not they are clean is by disassembly.
100% agree. I could hit most Cat skid steer rads from the top side with the steam cleaner for 10 minutes and get nothing but muddy water coming out the bottom. And they looked spotless where you could see it. Any time I ever have to take a rad out of a skid steer I always take the shroud off and give it a good cleaning.
Good advice, I'll dig into it - do i just lift the lid, undo the bolts on the corners and lift the rad up? will have to dig through my owners manual to make sure i'm getting it all
Here's the parts illustration. It may give you some assistance.
Thank you for posting that parts diagram. At the risk of sounding really, really stupid, is this assembly supposed to rotate up if you remove the rear bolts? I have a 2016 289D and it looks like it is on a swivel, but I don't want to try and force it.
It'll lift up but nothing worth writing home about. Maybe 3" at most.
I have to completely remove mine to get at the DPF, is there anything special I need to do when disconnecting the hydraulic fittings, or just make sure they don't get a bunch of debris in them?
Just removing the radiator won't be enough to get at the DPF if you're going to remove it for cleaning. Had a co-worker try it, it didn't work. Bolts on the exhaust were too tight to bust loose with your arm fully extended. Also extremely difficult, if not virtually impossible to reach the 4 bolts holding the DPF to its mounting frame as well. I believe Caterpillar's procedure in SIS is to remove the entire engine. As I no longer am employed at the dealer I no longer have access to SIS to confirm that unfortunately. Always plug/cap off hydraulic lines and components. Contamination control should be the main priority when opening up a hydraulic system. Most of the fittings on that particular unit will be ORS.
Based on anecdotal experience the best way to remove the DPF is to take the engine out. The Service Manual procedure for R&I of the DPF starts with "Remove the engine". I haven't heard of anyone successfully removing one with the engine installed.
I've done it going in from under the cab. I wouldn't say its easier but if you don't have a crane it makes the job doable at least.
I have officially derailed this thread....... I found an old thread that one of you posted engine removal instructions, it doesn't seem that bad honestly except for separating the pump from the motor. There is an OEM tool called out for reaching a nut it looks like?
Post on that thread then, so it pops up and we can all see what you're looking at............
Do you mind telling me what camera you used?
I used this camera: https://amazon.com/dp/B08H4W9Z7Z?tag=amz-link-20 but any backup camera will work just fine. You just need to attach it to the Deustch connector which is inside of the cab on the back right side (over your right shoulder when sitting) under the cover for the "B pillar". If you have the "advanced display" (LCD screen from Cat) I think that it "just works" with no need to change anything in CAT ET but don't quote me on that
While we're on the subject of derailing this thread, I never realised how easy this was until now. The advanced display just has an RCA + and RCA - input. There's no reason those inputs need to come from an over $1k camera with Cat written on it. Also using the power source from the standard camera plug behind your right shoulder (CONN 23) utilises the factory backup camera fuse in the fuse box. Brilliant.
Yep, that's it! It really is as easy as that. I ran the wire (any backup camera wire is going to be PLENTY long enough) through to the engine compartment and then just screwed the camera through the stock camera's blank panel on the engine door.