I've been having an issue with my 299c ser# cat0299ccjsp01814 not starting without ether. After starting with ether it runs perfectly. So I was checking the enrichment solenoid on fuel pump it's working perfectly. But now I'm having another issue when turning key from off to run the yellow wire on back of switch gets extremely hot and blowing switch fuse. Any suggestions?
Update I figured out the wiring issue it was the signal wire or Exciter wire on alternator shorted out but still will not start without ether. Machine runs perfectly otherwise and both solenoids on fuel pump are working as they should. So where do I go next?
Will it start fine when warm? I'd check the glow plugs and see if they're all working. If those are fine I'd consider a compression check. Hard to build up enough heat to light off the diesel if compression's low.
Wot he said. Put an amp clamp on the wire to the glow plugs and see how much current they are drawing.
It starts the same hot or cold you can shut it down and immediately try to restart and same issue
I'm curious is there a max temp for the computer to trigger the plugs? The ambient water temp according to machines gauge was 58 f
You will need to supply a serial number for the exact schematic, and find where power goes to from the yellow wire to something drawing too many amps. Simon C ~Post moved here from duplicate thread.~
Both the cold start advance function and the glow plugs are triggered by the coolant temperature sensor. Anything below 95 DegF should pull in the cold start relay, which activates both the glow plugs and the cold start adsvance solenoid. This should be simple to check. Would you like an electrical schematic to help in that.?
Yes a schematic would be great
I may have found another issue my lift pump is putting out almost half the required pressure
What pressure is it putting out and how much pressure do you think it requires.? Check your message inbox. One is on the way.
6-8 psi and I think it's supposed to be 12 psi
It says 7-12psi in the System Operation document. I'm not sure where you are measuring the pressure but that value, or range of values, is in respect of the internal fuel transfer pump mounted within the HP fuel pump for the common rail injection system. "The fuel is drawn by an internal fuel transfer pump into the fuel injection pump. The fuel is drawn by an internal fuel transfer pump at a pressure of 48 to 83 kPa (7 to 12 psi). A portion of the fuel is routed through the pressure regulator assembly to the suction side of the fuel injection pump. The fuel that is under pressure from the fuel transfer pump flows to the pumping chamber of the fuel injection pump housing."
My machine has an external lift pump on left rear of machine where door hinges. The fuel \water separator is attached to it. I am measuring where the line from that pump enters HP pump
That electric pump should only run briefly under certain circumstances to prime the system. If it runs at all after the engine has been started something is not right. When the engine is running the integral transfer pump within the injection pump is responsible for sucking the fuel from the tank through the water separator/filter assembly.
Sorry I've not responded promptly I had to put job on hold. I've been battling pneumonia. I plan to get back to it today. That pump does operate as described. As far as glow plugs they do not have power or light on display. All fuses and relays test good. I'm missing something in that system and just haven't found it. That said I have attempted to (jump) a cable to them and operated them myself without OEM wire. Still no start.
You could rig up a hose to the prime pump inlet into a bucket of clean fresh diesel. That would rule out bad fuel, restricted fuel tank pickup or a suction side air leak. They do fail. Test pressures again with the above fuel supply rigged up and see if pressures change. Handy hint: loosen the fuel cap when running the engine on a bucket or you'll crack the plastic fuel tank.
You're likely going to end up putting an injection pump on this machine. Those zexel/VE style pumps get internal wear in the rotor and head, and when you ether it, you get enough speed/fuel flow to overcome all the internal leak points. One thing to check is make sure you have good cranking speed, but frankly, if low cranking speed is causing a no start, the pump is on its last leg anyway.
^^^ I agree on it possibly being the injection pump. I’ve had a couple like that. Usually they are worse for starting when the engine is warm.
I'll throw my 2c in here. Agree with both of the above post and would point out that the usual cause is a failure to conduct timely & correct maintenance on the fuel system to prevent water and sediment from the fuel tank reaching the HP pump. Nothing known to man will kill it faster IMHO.
Thank you for everyone trying to help me I have been battling pneumonia and haven't been very available I did infact send my pump to the shop and had it rebuilt before I got so sick I couldn't do anything. That was the issue it is back up and running properly. Thank you everyone.
I hope you got a good warranty with the rebuild, because anecdotal experience suggests that once those common rail injection pumps start acting up (usually as a result of improper fuel system maintenance - take note...!!) they are toast and only fit for use as a boat anchor. Maybe @thepumpguysc has an opinion.?
Yes sir it is a shop I've used very often and they're very reputable.
Good to know. Next question. Do you have an Operation/Maintenance Manual and are you following its recommendations as regards fuel system maintenance.? The usual cause of HP fuel pump problems is contamination (water/sediment) coming from the tank.
Yes sir I have checked machine tank and my storage tank for water and I change filters religiously we purchased this machine with rather high hours I can't speak for previous owners.
if you are doing all that then you are doing far more than most owners. The only other thing I can suggest is to maybe put a clear-bodied inline element in the fuel suction line before the filter. This has to be something that works with diesel, NAPA 3972 or similar comes recommended. That would give you early indications of any tank contamination and enable you to take the appropriate action.
Thank you that is a good recommendation I can do that easy enough.