I guess I am going down the rabbit hole with preferred oil change methods as I see where many guys insist on not prefilling the oil filter. Seems some suggest using oil from a jug is "not filtered". I tend to wonder if this is more of an excuse not to do it. I guess I have always filled them in an effort to reduce the time without oil pressure. The 3126 is a HEUI engine so I guess it really should not fire until there is oil pressure anyway but figured I might ask you guys. ? This is on a CAT excavator and the first oil change for me on it. I know the voiced risks of contaminates in the injection pump but I have always reasoned that the new oil from the jug has to be cleaner than the old oil I am taking out! As well, I currently have Volvo filters on the machine and not sure why? Are they better? Cheaper? Bigger?
Unless you are prepared to take the time to fill the new filter through the holes in the outside rather than the big one in the centre I would say don't prefill it. Even on HEUI engines I would not prefill an engine oil filter because as you point out the HEUI pump is not going to supply HP oil to the injectors until the LP engine oil pump starts delivering it. So IMHO there is no danger of a startup of an engine that might potentially be short on lubrication. No idea. are they any different in size to the OEM elements.?
Adept ape on you tube, a cat mechanic, says to either fill on the outside holes or not at all. If it's a new rebuild to fill on the outside holes of the filter.
Do they make a filler for such purpose? I mean, I could make one but surely there is something already. Probably should be in that practice anyway though on smaller engines, I usually don't do anything.
Small funnel should work. If there's rubber, it's an anti drainback valve and will push out of the way, but sure makes it hard to pour through.
A lot of filters are the same as pipe thread, might be able to thread in a pipe fitting and it should keep our the oil. Just put it on dry the oil pump is primed it's fine.
Just put it on dry. I've got many Cats with remote oil filters, changed the lines and filter, and never an issue. And some on Mitsubishi Cats have upside-down oil filters. Again, never an issue.
In a lot of late model Cat machines the filters are installed upside down by design to prevent them being prefilled. I wouldn't mind betting that at cranking speed the engine oil pump will fill the element from dry in no more than a couple of seconds.
I would think that maximum cleanliness of oil would more apply to modern hydraulic systems than engines. I haven't been around that many engines but have never heard of having to pre-fill the oil filter for warranty requirements. Spinning the oil pump to lube before starting is not uncommon on engines that have sat a long time and spinning the engine to get oil pressure without starting is pretty common practice on rebuilt engines. If oil filters required pre filling they would come with some kind of apparatus to do it properly.
Takes less than 2 seconds of cranking to completely soak the pump compartment, when you've distracted the cat guy.
Just thought of something weird. What if filters came pre-filled??? Imagine buying filters with the grade of oil and type (syn. or con.) already in them. Would make for a lot of messes.
Years ago I went to a Cummins school. The instructor said never fill the filters. Wipe some oil on the gasket and install it. There is plenty of boundary lubrication to last a couple of minutes of run at low idle. He also talked about filters that were being made in that time period. Filter paper was all made of cellulose which is wood fiber. They were also boundary filters that basically were designed to prevent particles over a specified size pass through. The connections on all filters were all standard sizes determined by the diameter of the filter canister. Didn't matter where they were made, they all fit unless there was something odd from the manufacturer. One of my clients who imported a bunch of machines also bought a container load of filters and maintenance stuff. All that stuff fits just about every engine and fuel system he has. They just don't fit the Detroit canisters though.
I've never pre-filled filters. I think a lot of the Cat filters even say on them not to pre-fill. Especially important not to pre-fill fuel filters on modern stuff. The fuel systems have such tight tolerances (microns, not thousandths) that any contamination will wreak havoc on stuff.
Just about every brand of filter has a little symbol or warning not to prefill. When you've looked into the bottom of buckets of oil you'll see why lol
Many of the filters are in awkward locations that would make handling a prefilled one even more aggravating
I had an argument on some other site about this and somebody pointed out a Cummins manual that actually does say to pre-fill them, I saw it with my own eyes. Nevertheless I am still not pre-filling anything. BTW, I think a HEUI engine will start with no oil pressure after a filter change just the same as it ever does. It carries its oil in the HEUI pump or some kind of reservoir I think. Somebody correct me if I am wrong.
Heuis will start if the system is primed, if the oil filter was off and the engine was ran the huei system would run out of oil and shut off. Depends on the engine but I'm sure it's a little while before it runs out of oil.
This all reminds me that there was an update kit to add a secondary filter for that HEUI. I will have to see if anyone did that. I am sure I am getting a little anal here on this oil change but don't need any needless wear on that engine. I am always hearing about the HEUI and injector drama on these engines but been nothing but bulletproof for me and I want to stay that way.
We all have experienced just how much oil is left in the bearings of an engine even if it has sat around for years. That is, the bearings are still completely full of oil. It does not fall out, at all, due to capillary or meniscus effect or whatever you want to call it. There is no air in the oil clearance spaces, none, zero. Start the engine with no oil pressure, sure, but the bearings do not somehow run dry. The air takes just seconds to get purged out wherever it goes and then oil flow is immediately started. The rest of the parts, pistons, camshaft, valve gear, etc. basically just runs on a light oil mist under normal conditions anyway so it is not going to see any extra wear. Especially at low speeds and no load for 3 seconds we are talking about here.
Even some manuals will say to shut off engine if no oil pressure after 10 seconds or so.
It is different if there is no oil pressure and there should be some. That means something is broken. We are talking about a situation here when everything is working.
The heui pump does have a small reservoir and they will run on it for a few seconds. The reservoir has a utube that fills it. If that tube fails you will see hard starting after sitting because the heui airlocks.
This is a subject that is as universally polarizing as you can get. There is no in between. If you pre-fill, you are going to destroy the engine. If you don't, you are going to burn out the bearings in 1000 hours. SMH.
This most tempts me to mention covering exhaust stack to keep turbos from spinning, but I would never do that!
From personal observation I see exhausts left open far more often than I see them covered. I really do not know if it even makes a difference in the grand scheme of things.
I did not even know covering exhausts was a thing until I went on the internet. Nobody does it around here.
My take on covering exhaust is this: When you see a covered exhaust, you can bet your sweet *** that the driver either A. Had a customer try and blame him a turbo failure, or B. The boss insists that ALL drivers cover exhaust because a customer tried to blame a driver for a turbo failure.
Funny conversation, No one mentioned cartridge type. The DD series 13, 15, 16 Daimlers are all cartridge. As soon as the cover which retains the cartridge is unscrewed that filter housing drains. So when starting there is no oil in cartridge until the psi comes up, which takes about 3 to 4 seconds. Plus you must change oil and filter first then start engine till oil pressure levels at 50, shut off then change fuel filters. If not done in that order while priming fuel system with empty oil filter it can throw a code of no oil psi and not start. As far as covering a stack for transport it would have to be a short one. Old Myth like the natural oil in your hands will ruin a engine insert bearing surface. That comes from people who wear a belt and suspenders-- THEY DON"T TRUST THEIR PANTS.
On a dd I would change one fuel filter and start, then change the other. They really don't like to prime
The DD's will prime quickly if two people do it, short cranking intervals while another keeps priming.