Hi there My ignition fuse keeps blowing when I switch it on. Not to cracking position. I saw some wires from the safety lever/hydrophilic lockout and left joystick ware "eaten" by oil. Fixed it, but even with them disconnected/unplugged, it still blows. Does anybody maybe have a wiring diagram? Or any suggestions are welcome. Regards Jaxo
The only "real" item on that circuit, from the factory, for the "run" position, is the main power relay. Without a serial number, I can't show you what it looks like, or where it is. It'll either be cylinder or square, but, it will have a purple and red large gauge wire, and a small yellow trigger wire. I suspect the relay pull in coil is shorted, and can be verified by disconnecting that small yellow wire from the relay (switch in Cat speak). Then, turn key to run and see if fuse fails.
Hi, Here goes: SN: CAT0323DVSDC00803
Sent you the schematic. Check your PMs.
Hi there. Thank you. Back story: Yesterday while working the machine just died. We checked the fuses and saw the ignition relay, 10A, was blown. We also noticed that some of the wires from the hydraulic lockout/safety was "eaten" by the small oil leak from the joystick lines. we removed it and "fixed" it. We re-installed them this morning. Replaced the fuse and started the machine. Waiting for it to warm up and workaround. Was running for about 10 min. Then died again. We unplugged the the wires we worked on. Replaced the fuse and tried again. No luck. Just blows every time.
There are 2 relays behind the main cutoff switch /key. I removed both trigger wire from both and blown fuse again.
Hi there Progress report: I removed all 4 cable connectors from the 2 x relays and the other 2 next to them (dead ends or end is some or other thing) Same problem. So, I traced the yellow cable from the ignition to the magnetic switch/Main relay, behind the operator next to the fuse box. ( PART NUMBER 213-0772-01 ). The yellow wire shorted to ground. The yellow wire was crimped together with another yellow one. I split the 2 and tested them separate. The one going to the ignition short to ground. I made a new one from the relay to the ignition. Power went on. Tried to start the machine. Cranked and did not start. The diesel cut-off at the injector pump was closed. I held it open by hand and the machine started. That solenoid might have a problem, or maybe the yellow wire, I just replaced, split somewhere in the wiring.
Hi there I have a yellow wire 308 going from the ignition to the main relay behind the operator, next to the fuse box. There are a total of 5 yellow wires coming together. I believe that wire splits somewhere in the harness. I connected it directly. Display switch on, but no details on the display eg. voltage, speed, etc. reads 000. Also the speed dial display 0 and does not work. At one stage i gave that wire power, for a short time, and it did not short. I heard the throttle kill actuator open and the display and speed switch worked. Then after a few seconds the actuator closed again and the after another short while the display info went back to 0 again. So I tried reconnecting it. I heard the actuator open and after a while it closed like before and the shorted the fuse. I unplugged the actuator and it still shorts. I unplugged all the relays in by the main cut off in the battery compartment and it still shorts. I need a more complete circuit diagram. Or where can I buy one online? Thanks
I sent it to you a couple of days ago. Check your messages.
Hi all So the 308 wire ends: 1. MMS Key-reader 2. Monitor 3. Lamp delay timer (what does this do?) 4. Main relay diode (2,3&4 come together at Main relay) (My machine have 5 yellow wires at the main relay. Diagram only 4) 5. Engine Control 6. Product link radio 7. Machine control 8. Squeeze press sensor 9. Pressure pump sensor 10. Pressure pump sensor 11. Overload weight detector Which is more likely to short to ground?
Hi there I unplugged all the connections by the hydroponic pump. Machine started up. Reconnected them 1 by 1. Machine worked for about 1 hour. Then blow the fuse again. Unpluged only the Solenoid - Power Shift Pressure, and it did not blow the fuse. I guess that's the problem. How do I test it? If I check the two points inside the show continuity.
I went back after lunch. Switched the machine on, and it switched on. So I tried plugging the solenoid back in, and sure as hell it switched on. I started the machine up. Warm up and the worked for about 2 minutes before it stopped again. I unplugged the solenoid and 2 sensors. Tried again, no luck. Even unplugged the starting solenoid and its diode. Also the other diode and solenoid. No luck. Could the computer do this?
Update: Today I went looking for the Overload sensor to unplug. Can anyone help me to locate it? I left all the other connections unplugged. And tried switching it on again. Still fused. So I unplugged the actuator and tried again. Ah it worked. So I plugged in all the lose connections and it still switched on. So, as a test I plugged the actuator back in, and the machine switch on. What is going on? Started the engine and wait for warm up. Just as I started working, the machine died. Unplugged all again and the fuse still blow. So the only thing i did not unplug was that boom overload sensor. Anyone know where its located?
The overload has to be on the boom barrel circuit. Between boom cylinder and main control valve. That's the only place that it can be measured.
SUCCESS!! I tested all the end point I could find for "short to ground". Found 3 by the hydraulic pump and actuator that all did. So I traced them all, and found where they shaved against the body. Thanks for all help.