Good day I have a Cat 3406C engine any recommendations for removing the front hollow dowl pin , that has broken flush in the block , between the block and cylinder head ( spacer plate ) on the engine It obviously supplies oil to the front cylinder head rockers , anyone who has advice, it would be greatly appreciated
An appropriate size blind hole bearing or bushing remover might work. A tap may work too.
Chidog nailed the best approaches but a pic would help before you bugger up anything. The best approach depends on the dowel material, wall thickness, depth, and unfortunately something you can't really measure: how bad it's stuck. Edit: While some HEF members may know this dowel, others like me have never opened up a 3406 (or any other Cat motor) so a pictorial education can help.
I believe the dowels circled in blue are what Rolling soot is dealing with. These are on a B model, but I suspect they are the same.
Thanks for the pic, Oxbow. I now understand what the OP is dealing with as I've seen them on other parts/pieces. Being so thin, I wonder if they are rolled pin dowels. If so, a typical blind puller that pushes against the inner pin walls to get a bite probably won't work. Using a tapered tap is probably a good way to try first. But again, if it's a split dowel, it'll be tricky.
Prolly not split dowel if oil pressurized, but I don't recall. Standard roll pin is hard as woodpecker lips so tap is difficult. If hard, I'd anneal with acetylene torch. Don't know your skills or tools. If it wouldn't tap I'd likely weld a handle on it and pull with a slide hammer or welded all thread.
And this the truth of so many things. What more than a few guys on here can do in 5 minutes would result in a tragedy if tried by guys that aren't experienced. Not trying to dissuade the OP, just pointing out certain things require more than just a general idea on a method.
And try not to fill the oil gallery with swarf while you're attempting it. Joe H
Annealing with the gas wrench will help and may even loosen the pin up a bit. Pins are hard but a good tap (not Home Depot) should take a bite on the pin and maybe spin it so it can be brought up when spinning. A carbide tap is best but the skills start to border on being a machinist on how to use a carbide tap without snapping it. Either way patience is key and why cuttin edge is right about it possibly being a 3 day job. One option I just thought about is using a thin die grinder and cutting it in half from the inside. That does make a LOT of swarf to mitigate. Kudos to Joe H for reminding us to keep an eye on generating hardened metal dust in an engine block....
Should push some thin grease into the bottom of the hole before tapping, and vacuum it up afterwards to not get any cuttings into the oil passage. Could heat first as was suggested, then push the grease in. I drilled one out of the end of a crank years ago with a carbide bit. Came right out, but very risky. Need a patient non rammy person on that one. Simon C
Get a vacuum and neck it down, have a helper hold it right next to dowl hole while using a thin bur on a dremel down one side, do like Simon says and put some grease in bottom of hole and suck that out with vacuum cleaner too. Remembering back to about 1989 I removed one similar to that, that way in a {A model} no issues. But I also worked auto machine for about 6 year too and having that back ground and steadiness helps-just can't hurry, the sun comes up goes down and back up.