When I bought my 416C the A/C never worked. One time I tried adding a can of 134a and it went in and the gauge went back to zero, so I suspected it had a leak. Bought avacuum pump last week and a 30lb can of 134a. Put my R12 gauge set on and pulled a vacuum down to -30in Hg. It held the the setting so figured it didn't have a leak, ran the pump another 30 to 40 minutes. Read today on the web that I should have started the charge on the high side before starting the engine, I did not. All charging was done on the low side, some liquid, some gas. Added 2 1/2 12oz cans of 134a and still got no coolng. Hooked up the 30lb tank and started adding freon using the PSI readings on both the high and low gauges. Pulled down a pdf heat table for 134a and at 95 degrees outside air temp it said I should have 275 - 300 PSI on the high side, and 50-55 PSI on the low. Managed to get the high side up but low side only comes up to about 30 PSI. Read in another area about some CATs that the low side could read zero during a test. I do have cooling but I am wondering if I have to much freon in the system. Can anyone advise?
The pressures youre quoting seem pretty high. I would be happy with 25-30 low side and 200 high side. A 416C 4ZN holds 4 lbs of 134A. The best is to only put in that much so you might want to recover it and weigh out 4 lbs. Also make sure your heater valve is shutting off. You may want to shut off the heater lines to the cab. Also make sure the evap core is clean .
No expert hear by far, and I've stumbled my way through both R12 and 134a recharging. Mom's car always seem to need some every season. Never had any issues getting the low side to come up to 40PSI until this one. I was showing 150 or so with the low side still showing in negative numbers. At one point I think I did over do it because I saw the low side come up above 80 and the high went above 300. Bleed some back off and it stabilized. I used the charts linked below for pressure reference http://acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/ Edit: the hot water valve is shut off going to the cab, core is clean and new filter
I would replace the receiver dryer and the orifice tube if you have low pressure on the low side. that system uses an orifice instead of an expansion valve. They can plug over time.
Works for me, I have been looking up the tube/orifice and cannot find the part number nor the location of it on SIS. Can you advise what the part number and location would be?
The orifice is 7x2049 and its in the tube up at the evaporator core. I don't see a drier on that model just an accumulator 1866190
Sounds great, appreciate it much for the help Just picked up a CDI digital scale for the next recharge
had similar issues with my 416c this year and the orifice tube and screen was clogged up .....on mine it was above the head liner on the right hand side ....will be in the hard tube side where the lowside hose(insulated) hose connects(lot of tape insulation there to pull off and replace)...the oriface tube is a common part seems like it was less than 5$ to get a generic one.....i changed the accumulator/dryer(combo unit) also (up underneath the right rear of the underside of the hoe) i didnt have a oriface tube remover tool.......after spending hrs getting it out piece by piece i will get the tool next time...FWIW
Appreciate the input, didn't know anything about a tool to remove it. There seems to always be something else that is needed to spend more money on. Ordered the tube, and it was 5 something, should be in soon.
mine was stuck in hard ....i ended pulling it out piece by piece with looooong needle nose pliers and then i ended up using a 5" drywall screw to catch the last part of it and pull it out......i was lucky to get it out that way.....i was going to flush the lines anyway .... BTW i was getting very similar gage readings as you describe
Update : pulled the overhead off and got the orifice tube out, it was cuddy. It did brake the end off but managed to get a better grip with needle nose and pulled the rest out. Tried to replace the accumulator but could not get the top hose off of it. Had a 1 1/6 (I think) on one side and a 7/8 one the other. The bottom came off easy but the top would not budge, so I put it back together. Pulled a vacuum and all looked good.
Cannot seam to get the pics to work out how I want them. In short, pulled it down to just a hair less then 30inhg, and let it run on and off for about an hour. Put 4lb 4oz Freon in and still don't have the cooling I think I should have. Previous post said mine takes 4lb, so I'm going to let it go for a bit for now at 4lb, 4oz and probably add some more later. Every bit I add raises the low and high side but not much, and this time there is no over pressure on the high side going on.
when i recently redid my 416c......i am pretty sure i put in 4-5 freon cans.....and was getting the same gage numbers your showing... ~35low-~225high (was prob 75deg outside)....mine is working great... a few more things i did to mine #1 i changed the filter (located above the frount windshield) and closed off the outside fresh air ports above the filter making it all recirculated air...***** this would be worth checking on yours***** #2 i was able to change out my accumulator #3 i did a partial system flush
Have a new filter in and wii see about closing off the outside duct, thanks
I just replace the A/C compressor, accumulator, and the orifice tube. Tube was completely clogged with debris from compressor failure. Charged the system with a couple cans of freon and nothing. Compressor clutch won't even cycle on with 12 volts to it. Don't see what I am missing!!! Why are they saying to charge from the high side? Never have charged on the high side and the Cat service guy ? that too? Didn't have an answer for me. Found one pressure switch right on the compressor. I'm wandering if there is another somewhere else?
Did you flush entire system? If you had a massive compressor failure that stopped up the orifice tube, you can bet that the rest of the system has just as much debris in it. Im not sure if the condensor coil is a header coil or a flow through, if its a header type, its IMPOSSIBLE to get it completely clean. I've never filled a system from the high side, I do however figure out how much and which type PAG oil the system is designed to hold, and split that amount between the compressor, accumulator and coils. I also turn the compressor up and pour the PAG into it while turning the unit by hand to assure that it gets circulated into the compressor. Dry startup of a new compressor will cook it almost immediately.
Flushed entire system.System was completely blown thru. I have correct amount of oil spread thru the system just as you said. The gauges have not moved since I fired it up and have not heard the clutch kick in yet? Tore system down for a leak at the compressor other than that was a working system. Just don't know if I should be looking for a second pressure switch besides the one at the back of the compressor. Possible bad clutch on a new compressor,not a reman? Bought directly thru Cat so not an aftermarket new.
If you're putting 12v direct to your clutch and it doesn't kick in then there's a problem with it, or maybe you've got a 24v one by mistake? If you're filling an A/C system from empty/vacuum you should charge the high side first with the engine off. The reason being that if you charge the low side you risk flooding the compressor with liquid refrigerant through the inlet valves and causing a hydraulic lock when you first start up. Once you have enough refrigerant in there to trigger the binary switch and make the clutch cut in, start the engine and charge slowly through the low side. If you try to charge through the high side you risk pushing the refrigerant back out and dangerously overpressurising your tank.
Exactly what I was thinking on charging on the high side. The problem I think I found in the new compressor with the clutch not locking in. Cat said they have had a few where the gap wasn't set correct so tomorrow installing the 2nd compressor that I have already tested on the bench so hopefully I have it. We will see.
Working awesome now!!
Someone mentioned heater valve in an earlier post. Where is it located? Does this shut off coolant flow to heater core? Because I have no heat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
On a D model it's located on the left side engine behind the panel. Simple valve with a hose running to the heater core. We turn all ours off during the hot months, it helps the A/C get colder. No heat when they are turned off.
CM i have a 416e I'm going to start a new thread about it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk