Evening from Australia, Thanks for reading. I recently purchased a 931 CAT refurbished. Subject of two other threads. I only got to use it up and down my inlcine once which is about 15-20 degrees and a couple of hundred meters up the hill. On engaging powershift in first hear having reversed up the hill I found that I had to stand on the brakes (centre pedal) as the powershift did not engage engine braking??? Is this usual or am I doing something wrong??? Now while I have it parked up I have noticed that the T bar throttle type lever which also positions for the engagement of all forward and reverse gears and throttles up the motor to high revs can be turned past that high rev position like a notch in the control and then the motor revs down??? Is this usual??? I have had to remove the start battery as it self discharges inside three days after full charge. I have a new battery to put in. Used a lever block and some lift chains to get it out with the ripper assembly on the back. Maybe a couple of millimeters clearance. I apologise if my questions are not informed. Machine is new to me and I don't fancy standing on the brakes when coming down the hill. I have a manual but can't see anything on the throttle position notch and they say to drive up the hill and reverse down but I don't fancy not facing the direction I have to steer and rely on brakes in reverse. Any good experienced input or knowledge appreciated. Regards, MX45
I haven't run mine on a slope in a long time but always had my foot ready to step on the brake. I know it speeds up some but can't remember if being in gear with the throttle turned up holds it from free rolling. I think it does for the most part. It free rolls at low throttle. Just being in gear doesn't act as a brake. Also on steep grades the brake pedals work the opposite unless you're fully engaging the brake on that side. As far as the twist throttle mine has a detent at full throttle if you turn it a little more. I sometimes have to use the detent when using the backhoe because the throttle won't stay at a lower setting. I don't know how the throttle linkage works but it sounds like yours starts pulling the throttle back to idle after it's turned past full throttle. Maybe it just need's adjusting?? It would be easy to tell with the right side engine panel off what the throttle cable was doing.
Appreciated, it was free rolling in first gear and with autos on cars it depends on the Auto as to what it does. Some utilise the selection as an engine brake and others don't. I guess the Cat does not. I will get the battery (new) in this week coming and try it out on the lower slopes with some runs to see what is what. I will look at the positioning of the throttle cable - cover screens did not come with the machine. I did manage to get about 80m or so of the drive cut/packed before I thought the risk factor was not worth it. I really have to stand on the brakes to slow it.
It is entirely different from an automatic transmission in a vehicle. No comparison at all. You have to have the throttle up for the transmission to work. I think it stops it from freewheeling when at high throttle but not at low throttle. Best to get fully used to it before going on any slopes.
Thanks Dave, I have smaller slopes at the lower reaches where I can practice the engagement processes etc. Having that detent where it goes from high revs to low revs at the end of the throttle engagement I should attend to though as going to low would then disengage the powershift? I once had a Belarus 90hp 4wd tractor. Used on the same slope for slashing the growth. Reversed up and engaged 1st gear and drove back down. Many many times. Then one time I did the same process and went from Reverse to First and disengaged brakes as I engaged the clutch and she kicked out of first (manual tractor) and they are crash gears so no can do. Tractor took off and it was all I could do to hang on to the steering wheel and stand as hard as possible on the brakes. Did some motocross jumps as I went through drainage ditches and was headed to my neighbour's house. What little control I had I managed to steer marginally right and went past the house and turned further to pull up a few meters short of a tall Norfolk Pine. Sat there for a long time thinking this is what you remember when you pass - the last thing you were doing??? Anyway had a hard look at the brakes and they were unassisted mechanical discs about the size you would put on a sedan. Rear tractor tyres were water filled and had the slasher on. Parked it up and sold to a guy who insisted he lot was nothing like mine, ie flat. Neighbour said in passing that he saw me at the hill and bent down to undo his shoelace and then saw me going past. Mentioned he though I was going a bit fast!!! I of course explained. So 'caution' is what I try to do and your words are not wasted and advices. Regards, MX45
Make sure the brakes are working properly. They should hold the machine on a slope. Also be ready to drop the bucket in an emergency.
HI, adjusted the RHS brake as it was near the floor and it operates far better. They do hold but I have to near break the back of the seat as I press with my foot on the centre pedal. I have the rippers to stop in an emergency, ie emergency brakes.
You shouldn't have to apply that much pedal pressure to stop the tractor on a slope, you need to inspect the linkages for binding and wear and adjustment - and also check the brake linings for wear. Additionally, check that oil isn't getting onto the linings from oil leaks. The engine will offer some level of engine braking in 1st gear going downhill, especially if you reduce the RPM. If you haven't driven the tractor much, things may appear to be happening a lot faster than you can keep control of, so you need to reduce the throttle a bit until you get used to the tractors quirks.
Hi Oz, CAT came to me as rebuilt by Heavy Equipment Manager so I would think he mostly knew what he was doing. Never the less it is a get to know the vehicle exercise. I am going to have a practice on my lower slopes once I get the new battery in this week. Have to be able to start the machine as a lot of my property is not accessible if I got stuck. I had a look in the RHS brake cavity and other than some condensation I think it looked 'dry' of any oil or other. Brakes squeak on heavy application so I would also consider that dry. When I had to stand on the brakes it was before I adjusted the RHS which was nearly on the floor so I suspect that will make a big difference when I come down the slope again. Next job in any event is cutting a pad for a 20 x 20 shed and awning so will be on the lower slopes to do the learning curve and am hopeful it will work fine. Bought it on the photos and assurances of previous owner with invoices so as good as it gets. Motor engine oil is honey coloured and not black so all looks good in that department at least. I will update in a week or so. Dave says to engage Powershift revs need to be high and maybe that was my mistake in coming down the hill as I did not rev high so your advice to rev low could disengage powershift???
The transmission pump still generates enough pressure to engage gears at an idle - it has to, or you'd have to rev it up, just to get it to move. The powershift clutches should never disengage when you reduce revs. If it's disengaging when you do that, you've got major transmission pump oil pressure problems.
Appreciated, I will check out engagement at revs once operating again.
Only if it's a really warm day and my machine is on hard flat level ground will it try to move at idle. I have to give it some throttle. If it's cold outside I have to let it warm up quite a bit and then give it lots of throttle to get it moving. Once the trans. warms up it doesn't need much throttle. Having a backhoe on probably makes a big difference too. In -10C or so I'll put the bucket down and lift the tracks just to make sure they aren't frozen to the ground. I've even used the hoe and picked the tracks completely off the ground and got them turning before trying to drive. You might be able to with a ripper as well. I figure it's easier on the transmission getting things moving with less load.