Got a clean caterpillar wheel loader, very serviced , alll new filters and fluids, clean out strainer for fuel, had problems with black smoke and power restriction , put new turbo old one had some play and had low boost around 11 , need to be around 18 plus i think, put new turbo, and still no boost!! can figure out whats going on please and help? thanks
Start with a machine Serial Number please, plus engine Serial & Arrangement Numbers if you have them. How many hours on the engine.? Has the black smoke disappeared after the turbo replacement.? What sort of fuel supply pressure do you have from the transfer pump.? If you stall the torque converter against the brakes in 3rd speed does the engine still put out black smoke, what RPM does it get to, and how much boost pressure do you have.?
Hello Nige, It has 14000 hours , new engine, new torque convertor and transmission at 10k hours, Still black smoke after turbo replacement , fuel pressure is good to specs, rpm hits over 2000 with brakes and 3rd speed. boost pressure around 9
i will get a serial number today
Would you care to share the numbers.? How much over 2000.? Spec is significantly higher. Because it's had a replacement engine please get the engine S/N and Arrgt Number. Has the engine had a valve & injector set (both adjustment & synchronization) recently.?
New turbo making like 4-6 pounds boost Checked everything again, fuel pressure 55 psi higher rpm Checked air fuel ratio diagram again it holds 16 psi Put old turbo back on 9-10pounds boost (just needed to see)
Here are the tests
It's definitely dumping too much fuel , and slow acceleration, with black smoke. Could it be a bad governor?
Sounds like either lack of air or a parasitic load. How and when did the problem begin? Gradually or all at once? Will it make its high idle speed of 2300 rpm? Does it start OK?
I bought the loader as it was, and yes it will make a idle 2300, and will start with ease right away no hesitation
It isn't going to be a governor problem. If the governor was giving more fuel, the engine would simply go faster. On a "conventional" diesel system you could maybe suspect timing but on a 3116, timing adjustment is done at the injectors. I think you have a restriction in the air system somewhere. If you are happy that the air filters are clean then I suggest you pull the aftercooler off and clean it. They have very fine fins inside and a turbo failure, for example, can block them with oil. Also try running it without the muffler. Do you know if the problem has been there since the engine rebuild?
I dont know if the problem was there before the rebuild or remain engine swap... We cleaned the after cooler , took off the exhaust and air filters for any restrictions, fuel psi is where it need to be , didnt think need to set the timing on air over fuel ratio since all the other test came to book specs. the governer was tampered with before i can tell someone had vise grips on it, since it has tamperproof screws . so thats what leading us to believe there could be an issue
Or could it be a leak on the pressure side of the turbo? Letting the boost pressure out?
Please refer to Nige's post #5. You need to do an accurate stall and double stall test. Figures are 2074+-65 RPM, and 1420+-65 RPM, respectively. If they come back within spec then the engine is making enough power and possibly has the rack setting mis-adjusted which is causing the smoke. The rack setting is under the valve cover. There are no governor adjustments that can be done with it installed on the engine. Can you post a photo of what you think has been tampered with?
Yes, i try and get a picture of the governer , but i believe my mechanic did the double stall test and came back good, but i will double check ...
At this point I don’t know what to think, basically because there is still no information regarding the machine and the engine. It’s unknown if the engine is a rebuild, overhaul, or Reman because no Serial Numbers have been supplied. As I posted earlier to start digging into what it “ought to be” we first need to know “what it actually is”. For that a minimum of the machine Serial Number, engine Serial Number, and Arrangement Number are required. With that it would be easy to see if the engine is or isn’t the one that was originally installed in that particular machine when it was built. Everything else comes from that.
Good Day, we are still looking for the serial number of the engine, the machine has been painted very well, but we are gonna take a better look today
While you are looking for numbers on the engine, how about a machine Serial Number as a start.? Are the hairs on the back of your neck standing up yet.?