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Cat 951 fuel pressure

JustinG ยท 2015-11-26 10:55

Been running my loader for a few days now and the last 2 times its been hard to start. Fuel filter has been changed, also installed a new hand primer. I have fuel going to the injectors. I've noticed when I use the hand primer and it builds pressure up, it will lose pressure in about 30 seconds. I can watch the fuel pressure gauge go from normal to out. I don't see any fuel leaks anywhere. What do I need to check inorder to find the problem?

Replies9
  1. #1Bob/Ont2015-11-26 16:42

    That sounds normal, what does the gauge read when you crank the starter? How long do you hold the glow plugs? Later Bob

  2. #2JustinG2015-12-07 08:12

    Drained the fuel tank and found large amounts of rust and trash. The drain valve was completely blocked. The fuel line going to the fuel/ water separator was partially blocked. I removed the fuel tank and used a rust remover on it, came out pretty clean! It had some heavy rust scale and the rust remover got it back to clean metal. Changed the fuel/ water separator and fuel filter on engine. Cleaned the fuel lines out and finally got it running. I need to change the batteries. I have to jump it off every time now. I'm doing a complete service on the machine this week. It's been a good running machine so far. No major leaks or fluids hitting the ground. I have 2 cylinders that need repacking. I can't complain though, bought it pretty cheap. It should last me a long time.

  3. #3JustinG2015-12-10 16:12

    Started on servicing my loader today. I would like to flush the final drives. What solvents are used to flush the finals?

  4. #4Nige2015-12-10 16:30

    Can I ask why you think the final drives need flushing..? Do you have a major oil contamination issue..? Normally all that's required is to get the tractor up to operating temperature by working it hard for a couple of hours then position the drain plug at 6 o'clock and let 'er rip ..... If you have a contamination issue then a 50/50 mix of hydraulic oil and diesel usually does the trick, but the tractor still has to be well hot for any flushing process to work. Final drives are more difficult to get warm simply because the only way of heating them is to work the machine. You can't get temperature into a final simply by stalling it.

  5. #5JustinG2015-12-10 16:57

    All the other fluids looked fine, except the finals. Both had some metal in the oil. The oil on one side was different colors as it drained. The other was low and oil was black. Not sure when it was last changed, previous owner had only been changing the engine oil and nothing else.

  6. #6Nige2015-12-10 17:00

    Sounds fair enough, 50/50 mix of hydraulic oil & diesel it is then ........

  7. #7JustinG2015-12-10 17:12

    Will do then. Thanks Nige.

  8. #8Nige2015-12-10 17:23

    Just make sure that a) you get the finals good and hot before draining the old oil, b) don't work the machine hard with the 50/50 mix in it (all you need to do is slosh the mix around inside the final drive), & c) leave it for a good while to drain all the flushing mix out of it. If you don't like the look of what comes out when you drain after the first flush then flush a 2nd time or more than that if you have to.

  9. #9JustinG2015-12-10 17:50

    I have about an acre of land to finish raking up all the small trees. That should get it hot enough and not work it hard. I'll feel better having them flushed out and new oil put in.