Hello to everyone, i am a new member to this forum, but i have found much help in the past in various posts. I Just purchased a 955 L. I dont know the date of the machine, there is a small plate welded on the engine side of the "dashboard" that reads 8Y8710. Is that the serial number? The loader has been sitting for two years due to cylinder head failure, combustion was leaking in the cooland circuit. The previous owner took the head out but never got it fixed. I Had a look at the head, i can see cracks on the three cylinders between the valves but i dont know if they go all the way to the water chanel. I took the precombustion Chambers out to check for holes or cracks but they seem o. K. Could it be that Just the gasket is blown from overheating due to coolant leak from radiator/ hose and it Will work Just fine with a new one? If the cracks are all the way to the water channels can they be welded, or they Will not hold? Monday i Will get a semi gasket set so i can mount the engine and transport the loader to my house. Please share your opinion with me and any info about this machine Will be aprreciated Forgive me for any grammar or terminology mistakes. Spyros
Welcome to the forum. Cracks between the valves are usually the kiss of death for a cylinder head.
I know it's not much help but here is what Cat gives as places to see Serial numbers, see attached file. Also these are the prefixes, numbers and letter would be at the start of the serial number.
Thank you for your answers. I found a number stamped on the right side, under the boom pin. If i can read it right it is 64J6418. Can anyone identify the date of the machine? Sealark37 i was afraid that might be the case but since i am going to mount the engine head anyway so i can transport the loader, why not weld the cracks and see how long it Will Last. It will be a chance to check the rest of the machine too, transmission, hydraulic, steering.
Well looking at the cracks and the extreme amount of pitting I would say that it had the problem for more than a little time! Best I would be hoping for is that it might run long enough get loaded on truck to move and again to unload and that might be close. I tried looking on SIS for the S/N and it does look good but it is too old for them to give an "as built " date. Best I could do is to look at some of the information about it and most of the articles are dated late 1970's to early 1980's, but being a Pre-chamber engine that was probably a given!
i agree, it needs a new ( or good used) head. it was probably run low on coolant at one time and severely overheated. the surface is likely warped also
The more I look at those cracks the more I'd be tempted to just reassemble engine, maybe even reusing the original head gasket, after checking to see if it will even turn over and not even put any water in the radiator. Then see if it would start. If by luck it does shut it down the second it does start and get what ever truck or trailer you are planing to load it on in position. Then start it once more and load it fast and kill it once more. Once at the planed repair site unload it as close as possible to where you plan on working on it and start it once more and unload. Then kill engine the second it is in position. The reason I would leave the water out is that from the looks of those cracks I would be worried about filling a cylinder with water and causing a hydro-static lock which would most likely prevent engine from turning over and or bend a connecting rod. Others here may have different ideas but that is what I'm thinking from over here! As for getting this engine back to working condition the bare minimum I would be looking at would be a new/exchange head and a full set of cylinder kits along with figuring out why the head cracked! That could be from one or more problems like bad water pump, plugged radiator, or just general lack of maintenance.
Yes and I don't think it was the result of one days mistreatment! Those pits took a bit of time to get that deep. I'd sure be interested in seeing how the pistons, rings and liners look, liners inside and out!
08Y and 64J are both 955L French built machines ,guessing early 1980. They both were built with a 48V 3304 engine ,look on left rear on block above starter for motor number. I think new aftermarket heads are available for a 3304 and that they made a lot of them so a used one may be possible . Good luck Bob
Thank again everyone for replying so fast. Truth is that the whole loader does not look in a good condition so i dont think maintenance was in the previous owner shedule. Undercarriage needs replacement, the flanges on the rods that push the idlers are broken and some screw on the brackets that hold the "death spring" in alignment are broken. But i got it for 2000€ so it is not much of a risk. If it does not turn over at all i will scrap it on site Any opinions about welding the cracks on the head?
Broken screws on the brackets
i wouldn't waste the money. just look for another head. it will likely cost as much or more to get that one repaired than you can find a good used one for, or an aftermarket one
The motor sure looks rough
Looks like that head has been off for some time.
If that machine has precombution chambers I wouldn't think 1980's
More like 1970's
Yes it was sitting with a plastic cover on it for 2 years. Today i am going to clean the cylinder Block face thoroughly and drain the engine oil. Anyone know the size of the fan v-belts?
Well going by the arrangement number on the tag "6A5545" the Cat part number would be 2P2696 and going by a cross reference book for a auto parts place "NAPA" that crosses to there 25-30624 which the list as a "22mm wide by 1599mm long belt" (7/8 inch by 62 7/8 inch). The Cat number is for a set of two!
Looks as you have found a money pit as I did with my Allis. All the work will be time consuming but end result should be a satisfying functional machine.
Now would be a good time to see if it it's stuck. It doesn't look to be the best candidate to get into operating condition. I see major $$$$ signs going forward and there's always unforeseen stuff. Might need a complete engine rebuild that could be over 10K or a replacement engine if it's too shot. Undercarriage would be up there in price too. Have no idea how the transmission is, etc. Only good thing is that it was a very popular machine. I think it's more of a parts machine than a fixer upper looking at the pics. For the time and money to get it in operable condition could likely found something that runs half decent.
I turned over the motor, it turns smooth by hand. I have worked for years in a big construction company and we did a lot of machine remanufacturing. I can find undercarriage in desent condition for maybe 1-2k and engine overhaul would be Just the parts and machining Shop costs, around 2k. So i think it is worth bringing it in Operable condition. Kshansen thanks for the v belt numbers Dmiller that is my intention, to slowly bring this loader in a ready-to-work condition. My Last project was my father's 1968 ford 4000 tractor. It was in terrible condition and now it is a beauty!
Today i got the rest of the head parts that the previous owner Had removed. The plate on the turbocharger says it is remanufactured by caterpillar. Does that mean that the turbocharger was remanufactured and then assembled on the new engine? What is the permittable vertical play on the turbo shaft?
I would say that tag on the turbo just means that at sometime over the years someone replaced the original with that rebuilt one. As to why that would be anyone's guess! And Cat is not making it easy on the end play unless there is information as to the make and model of the turbo. That 0R5799 is the reman number for a 4N6859 turbo but in the specifications for turbos they don't show spec's by part number but make and model of turbo. You may be able to figure that out looking at them so I'll try attaching that chart to this reply:
After some thought and your suggestions i decided to proceed in buying a new cylinder head, so i got it today and i got new valves and new precomb Chambers as well. So hopefully within the week the old cat will Come back to life.
Clean as much detritus from the cylinders as Practical before reassembly, may even lightly oil the cylinder walls prior to head install and roll the engine thru to lube rings back up.
Do you need any spec's like head torques, prechamber installation and such? If so give a shout here and I or someone else will get that information to you. Yes very good idea on the oiling the cylinders and turning the engine over! I would add to that to wipe the cylinders out real good and oil again and keep doing this till wiping with white rags they come out clean. This will help get any rust and grit out of them and at least off the top rings before you install the head. Plus I would suggest making a hook out of some wire maybe like a coat hanger and see if you can hook on the lifters/cam followers and remove them and clean and inspect them and what you can see of the camshaft. Just thinking every bit of dirt and dust you can remove will help in the long run. Once running I would only run it enough to know it runs and then I would drain oil and replace filters.
Great advice i will do that to clean as much as i can. Kshansen yes tightening specs and tightening sequence of the head would be very helpfull. I would also like to ask for info in the fluid capacities of the loader and all filter numbers.
Well this is a good start next I'll dig into the valve setting then fluids!
Here is a list of the filters that should be on that 955L. There are a few wash out screens and some of those filters may need seals, gaskets or orings, but this should be enough to get it running. I would suggest if you are planning on keeping and using it that you look into buying an owners manual and parts book and if possible a service manual.
Kshansen thank you for all your help! I will get the manuals for sure as soon as i get it running and check performance of transmission, hydraulics and steering, hopefully there wont be Any big surprices there
I ran across a turbo cartridge on the shelf, box says 4n9530. Only machines I had were cat 977ks & 955ks. Which one or either?
Sorry, i didnt quite get what you mean
Not really sure what 361brock is saying or asking but here is what that part number shows in NPR on SIS: I did not see any thing on SIS saying what a 76H would be but the 71J machine would be a 955K if that helps him. If given a full serial number for the 955K I could check that. But might be better if 361brock started a thread of his own so as not to confuse this one!
thanks kshansen just what i was looking for
Glad to be of help I see you are pretty new here, but in future start a new thread when looking for help. It just keeps the threads cleaner. And also gets better replies. Some threads that are more or less general wide ranging conversations are not to bad to get OT in but when a thread like this is dealing with one guys problems with one machine it is better to start a new one.
More bad news...
Freeze crack
Yep Any chance the cracks between the cylinders are not so serious issues?
I was talking about the pipe, I believe the 3304 uses linders, so what your seeing is normal
Any ideas what these are for? They came with the cylinder head. Is it for some sort of corrosion protection?
I am reffering to the straight hairline that gies from one cylinder to another, not the gap between liners and Block
Just noticed another number under the plate on the engine. F5386V. Is it an aftermarket code?
Here
Don't know, hope someone else does I haven't been into my 3304 other then to replace exhaust man That crack does not look good, if it goes clear thru, and it probably does, then don't know if the block can be fixed
time to temporarily put off installing that head until you find a good block to put it on
i, personally, would put the head on to run it temporarily, load it and move it home if you only have limited time to work on it where its at. once its at your yard, you can assess whether you will spend any more money on it or scrap it. if the engine is in such poor condition there is no way to even guess what the rest of the machine is like internally or even if it will move
While I have serious concerns about that crack between the liners, I would agree with 56wrench, put it together and move it to where it has to be for further work. Actually if you go back to my post #7 in this thread that was my suggestion to begin with before spending the money on the head! Project like this can be a slippery slope or landslide. Once started things can go down hill fast and take your wallet for a ride. I think you are finding out why whoever started this project stopped when they did!
I have pulled down many with a crack there as long as you have not removed the liners I would run it the most you will be out is a head gasket
So, yesterday i had my day of from work so i got busy with the loader. Firts start was success, it works fine, hydraulics o. K, steering needs a bit brake adjustment but cluthes work properly, Transmission also works great, gears engaging easily and i tried pushing against a big pile of dirt and both tracks were spinning. It was a relief that no other Major issues occured, so now its time for transportation As for the Block cracks, worst case scenario is i will have to take it out and repair the cracks. Thanks everyvody for the great advice and valuable info.
Get it to your shop for remaining repairs, see how long the Head Gasket lasts, if hangs in there not a problem until Overhaul.
Yes I agree don't do anything more till you have it where you can work on it easier if more work is needed!
Does anyone have any info about the undercarriage? I need rollers and track dimensions
Will depend if you have 15 or 17 inch shoes
Alldodge thanks but i am more interested in the actual dimensions of the rollers and tracks, so i can see if they match with Any other equipment like excavators
They will not. Track Loaders by CAT will be as for Dozer considerably heavier than Excavators. 6.906" or 175mm rails. Used on D5, 951C, early 953. One of the others here with SIS access can give a rundown on Rollers idler and other track components.
So the loader is in my Shop and today i got it to sit on blocks and started working on the undercarriage. On the left side, the spring retainer screw is loose and i can even move it a llitle back and forth. Does that mean that it is broken?
No, only time it's used is to hold the spring when its compressed the first time during install. Once its installed its loosened and stats that way until spring needs to be replaced again. If you need new springs like mine did, I just used a torch and cut them up, then removed
Oh, that' a relief!! I was afraid that it was broken and the spring could pop out of place during operation.
Can i have another confirmation on that?All dodge i trust your opinions but I know that spring can be lethal so better be safe than Sorry.
I read on a post in this forum that the 955k turned to 955 l some where in serial 85j. Does that mean that 64j loaders are newer than 85j or they were made the same time in different countries? My 955l has serial number 64J6418.
64J were made in France and judging by your serial number I'd guess it's a 955L. They were made during the same period as other 955's. I don't have 64J listed in my serial number book but someone on here will be able to tell you when it was built. 955K turned into 955L at 85J4672 and 71J3411. Don't know when the K went to L on the 64J models. 64J6418 comes up as an L when looking for service manuals. https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=64J6418
Unable to locate the old site which had all the info, but found another which list it as 1974 http://www.toughquip.com/
Broke the tracks today to have them replaced Along with some defective rollers, and i noticed there is a little play on the left idler shaft. Not much but since i got this far might as well repair it before it gets worse. Anyone have a diagramm of the idler? assembly?
Let me know if this is not what you need: Three attachments
Exactly what i need! Thanks!
Found a pair of used tracks with pads in very good condition, 80%. They came from a d6 B.i am going to have to cut the pads because they are too wide and i was thinking of cutting them uneven, so they will be a llitle wider in order to reduce ground pressure and gain more traction I saw that Kind of pads on a953. You think it is all right to do that or it Will be harmfull for the rest of the under carriage?
Wider reduces ground pressure, Equals LESS traction, still not a bad pickup. Using Dozer Single Grouser shoes on a loader is hard on Lower Roller Flanges.
It will work, there is a guy here (forget who) which did the same thing Agree with DMiller, single is going to be hard
Dmiller you are right about the ground pressure but i was thinking that bigger grouser surface in contact with the ground would mean more traction, especially on dozer grousers.
I would put triple's on
Single grousers are hard on the drivetrain because a loader turns way more than a dozer. Double grousers are a good comprise between traction and reliability of the drivetrain. Wider pads also accelerate undercarriage wear.
As above. Stay away from single grousers unless you have a specific reason to want them. What sort of state are your current (triple grouser I assume) shoes in..? Got photos..?
Now the loader has double grouser shoes. The plan is to mount an angling and tilting dozer blade on the undercarriage frame and use the boom for lifting/ lowering. The machine will be used 50/50 bucket and blade. I will have some pictures soon.
I hope you treat us to some pictures. Its a big project to do what your thinking of. If you do it take your time and do it right. And get some seat time first!
I had an accident at work and ended up with a broken wrist so the whole project had to be put on hold for a couple months. The good thing is i closed the deal for the dozer tracks for 1500€ and now all is left to do is cut the shoes and put them on. I also found a multi-shank ripper and i am negotisting the price with the owner. It is a big project indeed but in the end hopefully i will have an awesome loader/dozer Hopefully i will have some pictures soon.
Heal well, take your time
I agree with Nige and Welder Dave. If the double grousers are good, you may want to use them. I have 2 977K's both with triple grousers. One has a dozer pad, build up bar welded on the front bar. Absolutely great in my hilly woods in the snow. I can go uphill, down hill, and even side hill without much to worry about. If the ground thaws under the snow you can push over large dead trees, and not make near the mess you'd make in the summer. You get it on soft ground, even firm ground and you will leave unpleasant tracks going straight, turning you rip it up. Turning on bedrock or cement will make you grit your teeth. You can stick to mud on a sidehill very well. It can push like hell. Loose rock no problem. When I went from the truck (over the blacktop) to my gravel driveway I was sure glad I had tires! I saw a picture of a newer John Deere or Cat loader with a blade on front. Looked like a factory setup. Set it up so when the blade is turned it keeps the material well away from your tracks (wide blade). The closer the blade is to your machine the easier it is to keep the bumps out of the road. Think fulcrum. Enjoy that machine. Wait till your healed.
My pads are 18" on a 25 ton machine yours are 15" on a 15 ton. I'm not sure if it's ok to have the rails off center. But making yours into a LGP dozing machine (I believe) would cut down on tearing up the ground.
Paid a visit to the Shop today, and managed to take some pictures. I wanted to check the hydraulic circuit and see what it takes to connect a ripper. Although on the bottom of the hydraulic tank there are some plugs that look like they could be for the ripper lines, on the side of the tank i couldnt find a plug or gate for the third lever. I have to empty the hydraulic fluid and open the tank to see what exactly is the deal. Does Anyone have some diagrams or know what it would take to have the third control? Is there an extra control valve that has to be mounted to the existing one or i need new control valve and/or hydraulic tank?
Take lots of pictures of the dozer conversion! I was wondering the other day if a ripper could be added to a machine if it didn’t have one from the factory, so keep us updated and post pictures of that too!
I really like that Dozer frame! I would love to have it set up on my 977L. I would want a Quick tach system though. Just getting old and spoiled. Adding that 3rd valve could be a deal breaker. Could be hard and expensive. I was looking at a picture the other day of a bolt on ripper on a 977K. Looked like the counter balance plate where gone. You would probably have to drill and tap your own holes. Best of luck.
I would think the mounting holes are already there and it's common to remove a counterweight(s) when a ripper is installed. The biggest issue is the hyd. control for the ripper.
Anyone with SIS access can give me some info about the hydraulic controls for the ripper?
Anyone?
I remember we had 955L machines with multi-shank rippers back in the late 1970's. There seems to be very little information about them that I can see. For the life of me I can't remember how the hydraulic system was set up. Here is an arrangement for a 12A-prefix 955C (much earlier than your model) with a separate valve mounted on top of the hydraulic tank to control the ripper. Maybe it might work as a memory-jogger for somebody. There are also "955 Ripper" arrangements, prefixes 65H, 84G, & 87H. The weird thing is that although they show the ripper frame, cylinder, & hydraulic lines, none of them appear to include any information about the hydraulic control valve necesaary to operate the ripper function.
OK, this is promising. Rear hydraulic lines for a 64J-prefix 955L shown as connecting to the ripper lines. The intersting thing is the reference to a "form" for installation of an "Auxiliary Valve Conversion". Unfortunately the document reference FMO55053 does not seem to exist in SIS. Maybe the Antiquie Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club - https://www.acmoc.org/ - might be able to help you.?
Thanks Nige, this is very helpfull.
If you can't find the proper valving you can always use a diverter valve you would only be able to use ripper or tilt or lift at one time but if you are ripping you probably would not use the bucket. 953 uses a diverter valve for the ripper and 4 in 1 clam.
bunkclimber posted this a couple years ago. Maybe it could help. I wanted to do the same thing, add a top clamp to a fork carriage on my 977,which is a two valve machine. The loader hyd pump output is like 80GPM or so with 1-1/4" hose with a Code 61/62 flange output. .you could intercept the flow from the main pump, use a flow divider to feed the Cat tank and loader valving on one side and also a satellite valve to run your outboard implements, with a appropriately sized relief valve and secondary return line back to the Cat hyd tank. You're talking BIG valves, not easy to find, or for cheap. This is what appears to be done with the 977 in the photos of the Montreal Tractor unit you saw. Whether or not they used a relief valve back to the Cat hyd tank in addition to the secondary return or not is to be seen. I've seen a couple machines set up like this for oilfield work many years ago with multi-spool valves next to the operators station and custom outboard tools for pipeline work. .Pressure doubling could develop between systems and make for a catastrophe when used under load without the appropriate relief valve. For the easiest route just get a Cat tank with the factory valves in it and plumb it from there. Best of luck.
I admire you’re ambitious nature towards this project. I’ve a 955k (61H858) that has rear hydraulics. Looks OEM, but not 100% sure. Lever is to the right of operator on the flat surface behind raise/dump/clamp controls and moves horizontally. I can remove rear cover and post some pics of control and lines if interested. Thanks to all the guys sharing helpful info with owners of these seasoned machines. - AV
If it is not too much trouble, some pictures would be very helpfull! Thanks in advance avanfarm!
So, i did some work today on the loader. I replaced four bottom rollers that were damaged. Replaced seals on both left side cylinders. Wedged two pins between sprocket and track to pull the spring back in order to work with the broken bolts on the brackets. Also disassembled left idler because there was some play on the shaft. Shaft looked fine so i ordered only bushings and seals. To be continued!
Idler pin and bushings
Those bushings look expensive. Do you have a way to measure the clearance?
I didnt bother to measure it because when i removed the track i pushed the idler sideways and i could move it back and forth about 2 centimeters.
Re aux hydraulics-
Today's progress: Did some precission torching on the broken bolts,cleared the threads with a 5/8-11 tap and installed the brackets with new bolts. It was a relief to take out the Wedged pin from the sprocket and let the spring rest on the brackets!! Broke the right track and and now i am going to bring the new tracks to the Shop in order to cut the exceeding length of the pads.
Today's progress: Did some precission torching on the broken bolts,cleared the threads with a 5/8-11 tap and installed the brackets with new bolts. It was a relief to take out the Wedged pin from the sprocket and let the spring rest on the brackets!! Broke the right track and and now i am going to bring the new tracks to the Shop in order to cut the exceeding length of the pads. View attachment 229695 View attachment 229696
Looks good. I’ve been putting off a broken track spring repair. Your motivation is contagious. Need to dig/move some mature olive trees and that’s not happening until new spring. I’ve used the machine in the past to relocate trees for a house pad and they’re hard to beat. 955 can cut, dig, carry, load, with enough power in a size that can still maneuver in an orchard without destroying it. One of many attributes that earns its keep. Now it’s my turn to earn mine. Thanks for the motivation-
Idler tensioner piston seals replaced, pushing Rod welded, waiting for idler bushings to proceed
The guy i got the dozer blade from, had missplaced one of the mountings so i have to make a new one
the sprocket segments look very worn out. how does it match with the new tracks? A big mismatch will cause problems
Hard to believe one could loose something that big, maybe he left it in a shirt pocket and it went in the wash?
I was lucky to even find one of them because it was located 50 km away from the blade, inside the bucket of a loader. Havent layed the tracks yes, will have to see how they much
I was I a bit tricked on my $8500 purchase of my 1973 977L. New segments and pads and wore out rails with a link removed. The new segments busted up the bushings. The worn segments accept a little change in the rail pitch. The rails would of lasted much longer with the old segments. I did get a lot of service out of her and looking to get some used rails or better yet a parts machine. I have 2 K's to keep me busy. Love seeing your project. Maybe the track frame might need some beefing up. Check out a dozer frame. And keep those pictures coming! Thanks!
Had an unexpexcted gift today, previous owner called and said he had forgot to tell me that the loader had a cabin that he had taken of when he got it and it was laying in a field. I went and got it right away. The only glass on it is the top one but it's a start! Idler bushings and seals came in today, got busy with that too. Left idler's push Rod was bent about 10 cm from the front end. I couldnt get it straight so i machined the two end faces on the lathe to become parallel, made the straight end conical and welded the flange on the other end
I had a Hard time getting that Rod to get passed from the loader frame. I tried all possible positions but it Just wouldnt get through. I ended up grinding one corner of the flange to make it fit. Is there a certain way that one is supposed to install that Rod?
When the tracks are on i will put the blade in place to see how wider then the loader frame it is, and i am going to weld plates with threaded holes for the blade mountings to screw on. I will make these plates long enough to distribute the forces on a bigger surface of the loader roller frame.
Kudos! Skills and Ambition!
Not only did Spyros save Perseus, but looks to also be saving a 955. Good job! I appreciate you sharing your experience and progress on the project.
Finally got the new tracks today. Only problem was that they were sitting outdoors for years and they had become very stiff. Had to use an excavator to unroll them. I pushed them under the loader and moved it back and forth a few times to get them straight so i could cut the pads.
FWIW If you are planning on digging any holes with the blade make sure you put your mounts up a ways on the blade. If you put them too low you will have trouble digging a hole.
Thanks for the tip!
Looks like you have sealed and lubricated rails. About 1973 when Cat went to S&L rails on the 977L the pitch changed and they went to an alligator bolted chain split instead of the cursed master pin. I'm not sure about how you could loosen them up. I bought a dry rail machine that had some stiff links that loosened up over time with a little drain oil to help out. A big hammer seemed to be a waste of time. I would be careful of using heat. You could damage the seals.
I’ve read of people having success submerging them in water.
Maybe you could hose them down and work them with the excavator. Maybe set up a few logs to exercise them over. I was surprised at how long they took to loosen up on my machine. I put quite a lot of miles on it before they freed up. At least if water works you wouldn't have oil stains right away.
The tracks are not SALT, they are dry. They were two pads longer then needed, but before shortening them, i pulled them with a forklift in place and connected them. Then i moved the loader around for a while so they got a little loose. Broke the tracks again, removed the two extra links and reconnected. Looks like a beast with the wider shoes! But turns out i have to cut the outside too about 5cm each side because the dozer frame doesnt fit. The connecting link had different Bolt pattern for some reason, so i had to drill new holes on the two shoes.
It is going to have a real bad ass look when it has the dozer blade on and the big loader arms are operating it. You should be able to push dirt up into a mountain. I just thought of a consideration. The loader arms may raise and lower on a different arc than the dozer blade arms. You may need a extra link to allow each to move freely.
Yes i know. Actually if you take a look at the blade on my previous posts you can see the extra arm that was made for loader operation. But i think that i will have to make extra mounting holes on the loader arms- on the underside and about 1 meter back - because if i use the bucket mounts when lifting the blade the extra brackets will collide with the blade. I saw a picture of a setup like this and Looks better.
I love the idea of being able to move material from one side of the machine to the other. If I could pick up a setup like yours for the sweet deal you got. I'd buy one for my 977K/L today!
Little more work done today. As it turned out the shoes had to be cut on the outside as well, about 5 cm to fit the blade frame. Shoes are still a little offset but i will leave them that way. Now i have to weld two 60x15x3 cm threaded plates on the roller frame so the blade mounts can screw on. Project almost done!
Skill, determination, and perseverance are on display. I appreciate you documenting and posting pictures of your project. Lots of useful information for owners of these machines and a dose of inspiration as a bonus. Farewell 2020. Happy New Year to all!
Happy new year to everyone! I figured that i should post every step of this project from the start so that someone else may find it helpfull like i have with many posts on these forums.
Now I understand how you are doing it.... I was a little confused at first because this is how they mount them in my neck of the woods.
I saw an old IH track loader with a dozer blade for sale on Finning's website awhile ago. It used bars down from the loader boom to the blade. The problem with mounting a blade like a bucket is you're really limited in your digging depth. If all you ever do is flat ground you might be OK but if you have go down hills or over mounds the blade can't follow the contour of the ground.
You are correct. Hence the comment I made a few posts back about having the mounts up a little ways up on the blade so there is some cylinder stroke left to be able to dig. If I had to use that machine to dig a hole I just took the blade off and put the bucket back on. They are used around here with blades on them to build terraces. When pushing a terrace up you can "dump" the blade a little at the end of each push and leave all your dirt up where it needs to be. Where as using a conventional dozer there is usually a fair amount of dirt that stays on the blade. FYI we are pushing up @ 2:1 slope.
Some dozers have blade shakers.
Blade mounts welded in place.
Looks like you grew up in a weld shop!
I had a lot of practice in welding when i was in the university and i was working in a welding Shop. A good friend of mine owns the Shop i have the loader in and I work there sometimes on my days off from the factory that i work as a maintenance engineer.
Nice work
counterweights out
Ripper in. Now have to figure a way to operate the rear hydraulics. The guy i got the ripper from is thinking of selling his 955K for parts so there is a chance i am also getting ripper valves, lines and control levers from him.
Can someone with SIS access tell me the part numbers for engine oil pressure, engine temp, fuel pressure and trans temp gauges?
I think everything you are looking for is in the attachment.
Thanks Nige, your info is allways right to the point!
Hello everyone. Started work again last week so my project is going a little slow now due to limited time. Anyone have any info on the hydraulic pump on my machine? (Capacity, pressure port size) Serial number 64J6418
Guy was asking too much for the ripper valve parts and after some thinking i desided to use a 6 way / 2 position solenoid operated diverter valve, so i can operate the ripper with the bucket dump/curl control. Will let you know how it goes
Here's a brochure. Not sure if it covers your serial number but should be close enough. I think your diverter valve will be seriously undersized and potentially cause a lot of heating of the hyd. fluid when using the bucket. 385.pdf (erbequipment.com)
Well, after looking at the spec's on the brochure i think you are right. I spoke with my supplier and he will bring me a bigger diverter valve, with 3/4 ports and rated flow 140 l/ min. Hopefully this one will be less restraining Thanks Dave!
bigger and better!
140L/minute is only about 37 (US) GPM.
I know but this is the biggest i can go with my budget I will use 1" hoses to equalise the narrow passage
Bigger hoses won't compensate if the valve can't handle the flow. Flow is another 20 GPM more than the valve is rated for. I think you need to look for another option.
if i remember correctly, cat may have used some bigger mechanically activated diverter valves operated with a lever/linkage. somebody on here may have more information but they may be hard to find
See text in post #143 above.
I did actually manage to find all the info regarding the hydraulic installation & control valve for a 955L ripper and sent it to Spyros some time back. I'm sure that finding the parts is another story entirely.
Nige did send me the list of all the parts required and also did warn me that laying my hands on the actual parts could be difficult. And it is. That is why i chose to go with a diverter valve. I was originally looking for a diverter valve to install on the main supply and also use an extra double directional control valve to operate ripper and Blade tilt (when installed). But that was too expensive. Next thought was to get a control valve with power beyond facillity, place it on the main pump supply, and connect the return to the loader control valve. But the control valve required would be at least 1 1/4 size, and that was also too expensive. So option no 3 was to install a 6/2 diverter valve on the bucket controls. I realise that there is a chance of oil overheating, but looking at the lines of the bucket cylinders it seems that the bucket curl Hard lines are 3/4 and bucket dump lines are even smaller, like 1/2. So i am not sure if the diverter valve will cause much difference.
Had to cut the Hard line and weld 3/4 fittings on the ends. Installed valve and hoses, now need the electric lines and switch.
Hopefully the brazing holds.
I used a 3/4 tap and made threads in the pipes, screwed the fittings and then welded them.
Found some brackets From my old jcb backhoe that i can use for blade lifting links. Figured i should add some iron on them though
Admire the tenacity but the GPM L/M capacity of the diverter is the internal porting not the line restrictions. I would monitor the hydraulic temps really close to keep from cooking seals going with this unit.
Hi folks! Long time no hear. February was maintenance month in the fishfeed factory i work, and March is time for pruning my olive trees. I managed to Steel some time and get some work done on the loader Last week and hopefully next week is transportation time Lift arms in place Welded some reinforcement plate to take some of the stress off the screws Modified an old cylinder to make the tilt operation
Had to get new exhaust manifold because the old one was badly corroded and kept burning the gaskets Took radiator off and opened it up to clean it. Glad i did so because it was full of leaves, mud and rust. Seems that previous owner was adding river water
Do you have any tricks for cleaning out the tubes? I believe they don't have any way to boil out tanks in the states any more. I see an add for flushing at a big shop. They probably use something more powerful than the part stores carry. One of my 977's is running a little hot.
First i use pressure washer in the tubes, Mark the ones that are clogged. Then i use a long piece of metal about 8mmx1mm and work my way through each tube. The ones that are really persistant, i use hydrochloric acid, let it soak for a while and then use the metal piece. I managed to get all tubes cleaned except two
Wow! Sounds like you had a good idea to strip it down and rod it out! I've looked at the hundred thousand bolts that hold the top and bottom on and hit the pause button. I bet I have some serious lime buildup in mine. At over 50 years old I better put that on the list to do. That hydrochloric acid can be some serious stuff. We used it at work in some high concentrations. You don't want to breathe those fumes!
Add two diverter valves for the tilt plumbing
My friend from the shop asked me to help him with a 953 with a broken idler Rod. The idler assembly seems to be a little too complicated for no reason. Too many pins and bushings that mean more places to wear out. Two cat's together!
Two Cats “apart” seems more fitting.
New gauges!
I am going to change transmission and bevel gear case oil and filters. I Took a look under the machine and i can see on the bevel case a small port with two screws. Is there a screen filter inside? On the transmission i didnt see any ports. Is there a screen some where or Just the filters on the upper side under the floor panel?
The magentic screen for the transmission oil lines is inside housing #7. Here are some extracts from the Operation & Maintenance Manual that might be of use to you.
Thanks a million Nige!
Spyros33, Good pics and info. I bought a 977k and have several things to bring it up. Runs strong but ... list is long. Bought big ripper off a donor 977 a local is parting out so first thing is counter weights are coming off. Using my NH DC80 for medium work but looking forward to getting big Cat back in service removing trees, rocks and hillside farming prep. Just joined but have been reading for a few years... first post too. Gonna have a lot of questions. I’ll try posting some pics.
Here’s a few pics of ripper.
avanfarm, Pretty sure I’ve located the hydraulic ports like your pics. The horizontal bar to the right of seat functions, I clearly hear the pump kick in when I activate it. So I’m thinking it’s just locating those capped ports.
Rigidarm when you get into other stuff on your machine you should start a thread dedicated to your machine. That 977 that's getting parted out does it have a good set of track's?
Yes, he took them off for me. I’ll post more pics as I go. I bought this 977k for $4,000. so I don’t mind spending (a few) $$$$ to bring her up.
Looks like another one got away.... So how bad are your tracks? I'm in Dire Straits on my early 977L worn down to running on the pins then brook one side of a pin. If your bushings haven't been turned I could maybe do that if there enough Meat left to not break them in the track press. I'm going to copy this and send it in a PM private message. You will find it inside the envelope at the top right after you sign in. We are Hijacking Spiros33's Thread. Sorry Spiros33!
I’m on a job now but will talk later.
Happy easter everyone! The loader is finally almost ready and i brought it in my properly for some final work, put all covers and change oil and filters. Can someone send me the schematics of the batteries holding parts?
64J6418 serial number
I came across the electrical schematic at the same time so you get two for the price of one.........
Hi guys! It has been one oh the hottest summer of the Last 100 years in Greece, so working outside was out of the question. So now that it cooled down a little i started working with my 955. I was clearing some land for a pond project and suddenly i heard a baging noise coming from the engine. I immediately shut it down and checked engine for any appearing obstacles. Then i tried to start again but engine wouldnt turn over. I turned engine the other way by hand almost 1 turn and then it would stop again. My first thought was that the turbo blades Broke and got in the cylinders. I Took the intake hose out but turbo seemed fine. Started tearing engine appart and after taking out valve cover the mystery was solved! The spring was broken and valve dropped in the cylinder. Going to remove cylinder head to see how big is the damage
Hope its did no more damage then drop the valve
Good call to shut down immediately and turn by hand.
Ouch! That is certainly disheartening. Was this the new cylinder head you installed? If the valve dropped all the way into the cylinder, I'm suspecting you will need at the minimum, a new piston, liner and head. If that is indeed the case, you might as well rebuild the engine because you have already put so much time, money and effort into this machine and want it to be reliable for many years
Didn't go back to see but if the head was rebuilt by someone else, shouldn't any damage caused by the broken valve spring be a warranty issue?
Yep that was the new cylinder head. Like 56wrench predicted i ordered new piston, new valves and 8 new valve springs. Fortunately the liner was unharmed. Because the machine is left in the middle of nowhere, i have to put it together tp move it so overhaul will not be done at the time.
Welder Dave the head and valves are new but i used the old springs so its all on me!!
What would cause the spring to break, just old age? The shop that rebuilt my engine now has a policy to always put a new oil pump and gear on when doing a rebuild (even if the original meets specs.). I had a couple gear teeth break off and they covered it on warranty but had to had to pull the engine to fix it. It did cost me $300 to have it hauled there though.
Spyros I feel for Ya. Working out in the field is no fun. As always Best of Luck and even a extra dose till you get it home!!!
Looks like there is a piece missing from the spring. Can see the top and bottom but the middle doesn't match Did ya find the keepers and rest of the valve stem?
I almost had that happen on a Cummins KT19. Still can not believe we?I was so lucky that the valve keepers stayed in and only put a couple minor marks on top of piston. Now this was not on a rebuilt engine, but one with 23,865 hours on it! I did pull all six heads and had repair shop replace all springs and most of the valves and guides.gt Put it back togeather and had another 1,000 hours on it when I reited in 2015. Last time I talked to someone there they were still using that Komatsu WA600 for a stand by machine with no major problems.
Alldodge actually the spring pieces match, it Just Broke in two pieces. Keepers and rotocoil were laying next to the spring and valve pieces were jammed on the piston
connecting rod is probably ok but may be a good idea to check it to see if it is bent or twisted
Tomorrow i am going to the Shop to have the valve seats repaired and im going to take the Rod with me to check if it is o. K
New valve springs sit higher then the old ones. Seems that they have been compressed over the years. Should have changed them from the start, now i learned it the Hard way
Did the rod test out OK? The top of the piston sure don't look too good... Jon.
Rod is straight but the shop mechanical said that it could be shorter than it should as a result of the impact. I will get a new Rod as well to be safe Can someone provide me the torque specs of the connecting rods?
Valve seats will be removed, the holes will be machined to perfect circles again and custom valve seats will be fitted
Can someone with SIS access give me the connecting Rod torque specs? Searching on google i find 30lbft + 90° But i'd like to hear it from the experts
You really should buy a service manual. That is correct. Bob
You re absolutely right Bob, i Just keep neglecting it. Could you guide me in which one would be the right for my machine? S/N 64J6418 ENGINE NR 48V6243 Piston and oil pan installed, waiting for cylinder head.
Had to remove puc screws and lift rear side of the engine in order to remove the plate
Tighten to 30 +/- 3, mark the nut and tighten 90* more
Look for Cat Publication REG00634. A new paper version should be around US$290, the same thing on CD US$190. BEWARE of listings like the one below on places such as eBay where the seller is asking a price higher than you would pay for a new manual......!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/373530567811
Hello everyone! It's been long since I last posted anything, things have been busy. I used my 955 recently to clear some land and the engine was overheating . I pulled the radiator to clean in since it has been sitting for sometime. Removed both upper and lower cover and cleaned all channels thoroughly. I removed also the water pump for inspection since I had not change it when I purchased the loader, and I found that there is a lot of clearance between the impeller and the pump body. Around 3 mm. I think that it should not be that much but I am not sure. Pump body looks ok and I was wondering if the impeller is worn. Could someone give provide me with some info about the impeller dimensions or some specs about the impeller/body clearance?
Other than that loader is running fine and have done a lot of work with the dozer blade, thankfully still no engine issues.
The oil cooler can get plugged and cause overheating
Thanks for the tip, I will check that also