I have a D4H that has been running fine, but now it won't start. It just won't turn over. I get one click when the key is turned. Not the successive clicks that you notice on a car when a battery needs charging and solenoid can't engage the starter. At first I thought it was the batteries (it may still be the batteries) so I charged both of the and tried again (one battery reads about 14 volts the other less than 13 volts). Also, cleaned the connections. But no luck; same problem. I also tried jumping it with my tractor (12v), but that was a waste of time. When the key is turned only the oil light and the charging light come on. I hope someone can give me some suggestions before I get a sledge hammer. My cat is sad and all alone in the field, it's hard to bear. Thanks.
You might want to make sure a cylinder is not full of water before you get to carried away with trying to start it.
Can you turn the engine over a full 360 degrees of the crankshaft using the fan belt..? if so that indicates there isn't any issue with a cylinder being full of fluid of some sort. First thing is to go right through the battery cable connections right from the battery box to the starter motor, including the cylinder block ground cable if there is one. There will be cable connections in all sorts of weird places between the batteries and the starter. You need to disassemble, clean, and then tighen every bolted connection in the system. Once you have done that and if it doesn't fix the problem you need to go looking at the solenoid mounted on the starter, but then again the click you hear is probably the solenoid operating anyway.
The click is definitely the solenoid and the starter never engages. Before disassembling everything, is possible to check the terminals on the solenoid with a multimeter? I don't think there is fluid in the cylinders. The oil looks fine and my antifreeze is almost to the filler cap. I do have a bucket on the exhaust to keep the rain out. But, it's hard to rule anything out.
Just to be safe I would do as others have said make 100% sure engine will turn over at least one complete turn by hand. Very early in my career I was sent to a job site for a report of an engine not cranking over on a Monday morning. This site was half way across PA and by the time I got there they had kept trying and it finally started. I was told to watch it for a few hours then leave. Well 10-15 minutes latter a rod came out the side of that 12V-71. So better safe than sorry! Once you are sure it will turnover by hand you could do one easy test on the starter solenoid. There should be among other connections two large terminals with 1/2 nuts holding the wires on. One, the longer one, should show voltage 12 or 24 depending on the system of the machine with the key off but disconnect switch on. The other terminal, the shorter big one, should not show voltage with key off. Now with multimeter connected to this one have someone turn the key to the start position. When the solenoid click you should get the system voltage there. If you do but starter does not engage then there is a problem in the starter motor itself. If no voltage problem is most likely inside the solenoid. Probably bad contacts on the inside. In a pinch they can be fixed if you know what you are doing but might be better to pull the starter and take it to a repair shop NOTE: If you are going to disconnect any wires from the starter label them and make a sketch of what goes where and then disconnect the battery(s) before touching a wrench to the wires at the starter!
I'll take your word that the oil is fine and no water got in, and the engine was fine when you shut it off... That 14 volt reading is a little suspicious, did you check the water level on that one? Take the voltage reading of the battery voltage going to the starter when you "hold the click" if it barely drops from resting voltage then the batteries are fine. Next "hold the click" and either tap the starter solenoid with a screwdriver handle/broomstick/etc. Or take a volt reading of the big terminal of the solenoid going into the starter, if you have 12v at the solenoid terminal coming from the battery, but 0V going to the starter, the solenoid contacts are messed up. Test leads with alligator clips are useful here.
You mean you are not suppose to use a four pound hammer like some guys where I worked would try? Then after that worked for a week they come and ask me to take a look at the machine when it stops working.
Thanks for all the good suggestions. The four pound hammer is OUT. I will be sure to turn over the engine once by hand before proceeding with checking out the electrical. Now, I will strap on my boots, pack up my tools, and hike out to my little Cat. Now I wished it was 55 degrees out again.
One last thing, what is the easiest way to turn the engine. Is there an access port somewhere? Thanks.
Good news, the engine turns fairly easily.
Try this to test your batteries. Have someone put a meter across each battery in turn and see what the battery voltage does while you hold the key in the start position. Does it stay up or drop..?
Here are my electrical tests.... battery 1 12.;6v at rest 12.3v when key at start battery 2 12.6v at rest 12.2v when key at start solenoid long post 24v at rest short post .7v when key at start I guess this could mean I have solenoid problems. Is it necessary to remove the starter or can the solenoid be removed without the starter? Should the solenoid be replaced or can it be cleaned?
From what I can see that would appear to be a solenoid issue. Did you happen to try giving the solenoid a hefty tap with something hard & heavy while holding the key in the start position..?
Most starters you can get a replacement contact kit. Some you can change in place or remove just the solenoid housing. Others require removing the starter to get access to the solenoid plunger for removal. Depends on whose/what starter you have.
Dude I work for just bought a D8N, had a no start issue. Long story short the gear select cable and the FWD/REV cable were toasted, he was up in it trying to get it to shift, ended up in partial gear, spent several hours checking everything, finally thought of that and got it started. Replaced both the cables and it's good to go. If you're getting a single click check for a bad ground and/or a bad or corroded battery terminal.
Simplefarmer, Any chance you could post a picture of the starter? Try to get a good shot of the solenoid. Might be able to give a better answer on what you can or can't do with it in place.
best yet would be a serial number for the machine several of us here have access to CAT SIS and can look and see what is availble as far as parts from them when we get a chance
That is always a good starting place but knowing what is on it at this time would be even better. Very often when a machine gets a few years on it things get changed from the original. One example just last year before I retired had to replace a starter in a D6C, 3306 engine. To my surprise I found it had a 50MT Delco starter where the original was a 40MT! Someone was probably in a pinch and used what was handy. I've also found the opposite, an application that called for a 50MT but someone had substituted a 40 MT