My D6D LGP blade will go up and down fine. It will tilt left and back to level. But it will not tilt right. What can be causing this?
Is it a double tilt blade? Seem to recall some blades only tilt one way. Is the tilt cylinder retracted all the way or partially extended?
It has one tilt cylinder on the left. The stroke on the cylinder is 4 1/2 inches.
does it nave the foot pedal for tilting cylinder
Is it possible the chrome on the rod doesn't retract all the way in when the cylinder is at the end of stroke? Maybe something is jamming the linkage on the control valve but it seems really odd that the blade comes back to level.
No, it has the tilt on the same handle as the blade up and down.
The linkage is free moving. The control leaver works easy up down and side to side. It seems funny it tilts left and back up to level and stops. Its like that's all the stroke the tilt cylinder has. I'll try to get a video of it this evening.
If you disconnect the rod end of the tilt cylinder and stroke the cylinder in both directions, does it move any more.? Post a photo of the fixed link on the other side please.
I'm guessing that the fixed link on the other side is in the furthest forward position.
Indubitably. And a photo will confirm that..........
Here is fixed link
It appears to be.
See that bar near the dozer end? That is to adjust the fixed link. I'm not sure you will be able to turn it now if it hasn't been used for a long time. It is threaded inside. If you can turn it you want to shorten the fixed link.
Maybe someone set it up for the blade to be level when the cylinder was fully retracted instead of guessing when it's level??
I doubt It, but you never know.. Sometimes people would do that to allow the dozer to cut easier, which would make sense if it really is an lgp with no ripper. Also sometimes guys would try to get alot of tilt one way to gouge into hard material or start a ditch cut. Lgp dozers have a lot more cutting edge per pound of dozer due to the wider tracks and wider dozer. They are great at what they are built for, but are terrible for normal dozing.
I always wondered how operators knew when a 6 way blade was level. Maybe it's hard to tell when the blade is level when working in sloppy material?
Thank y'all for all your help. It is a LGP. It tilts a lot in that one direction. The guy that had it made a lot of roads in the swamp. Proby set up to cut ditches. To make it tilt both ways which way do I adjust the stationary link? Shorter or Longer?
Shorter
As @Oxbow said above - Shorter. However if it has not been moved for a fair while you may find that far easier to say than to actually do it. You might have to resort to the gas axe to get everything well warmed up then try to get some penetrating oil into the threads at both ends. EDIT: Someone without too much grey matter may have been messing with that link. See the arrows that I have annotated below on your photo. Generally speaking the gap at both ends of the link should be about the same. Note how at the rear it is much bigger than the front. You may have to remove the pin (arrowed blue) at the rear end so that you can lift the link and just screw the rear end inwards. I can't see you getting much movement on the front end before it all binds up. That could complicate things a tad........ Unless I am mistaken there should be a left-hand thread at one end of that link and a right-hand thread at the other to permit it to be shorterned or lengthend as required without the need for disassembly. I would guess that either one or other of the threads is seized or maybe just that the person who adjusted it last was not too bright.
By the way, you will want to have the pressure off when adjusting by raising the dozer off the ground just a bit.
Thanks, I'll try to get it to move.
I'm trying to remembder for sure as it has been around 40 years since I messed with one, but I think there are only threads in the lower/back end Nige. The dozer end is supposed to spin within the socket that is greased. Either way, your advice in regard to removing the pin and lifting it out should work.
Maybe I'm thinking of something bigger, as in D8 or larger, having LH & RH threads. Your explanation of a ball joint at the blade end and simply rotating the tube on the lower eye to increase/decrease the length is probably the right one. The illustration below shows the type of brace I was thinking about.
In answer to Dave about when blade is level. I always raised the blade high enough to square it up with top of hood/radiator nose to determine if blade is level. Then lower it and see if both corners touch at same time. Nick
I am suspicious that rod in the ram is wrong only going by where the oil mark stops, is should suck in more then that I would have thought.
The link on the other side might be preventing it from retracting all the way.
The ram may not be the correct one for the dozer, on my D6C the ram is made as to retract completely to the end when tilting the left side of the blade down. Your doesn't allow that do to the ram diameter being bigger and stopping retraction from beyond level when trying to tilt down on the left. At least that's my observation. Upon closer inspection I see your ram doesn't even collapse to the point the rod tapers up so my observation may be wrong.
The ram is in the left side though, and I believe he said that it tilts to the left ok but not the right, which would require the ram to extend more.
Not that it matters, but I'm trying to recall if I have ever run a dozer with a single tilt ram that was on the left. It seems they were typically on the right.
I didn't catch that, you are correct.
Judging by the rod already extended out of the barrel I'd say the rod is completely extend now.
Completely extended and lever to right, blade is level. Retracted, lever to left, tilted left a lot. And this one appears to factory on the left.
Any luck adjusting the linkage on the right?
Not yet. Tomorrows project.
Hey ncn2222, probably worth you tracking down a blade parts book as well as a hydraulic parts book to verify your setup. Blade should have a stamping on the back upper right-side; and your hydraulic tank should have a sticker. These two books will help you verify hoses, cylinder packings, etc, but will also tell you the bore X stroke of that tilt cylinder. My old (beat-up) D5 has the tilt cylinder on the left-side and will tilt the blade left and right (evenly) using my foot pedals…and as mentioned above, I can turn the right-side support to shorten or length (using the vise-like bar)…definitely mess with right-side to witness the change (if any). Also check if maybe the tilt cylinder mount was moved?? I do suspect previous owner could have “customized” it to fit the job(s) he was doing…might be as easy as a cut/reweld mount situation. My tilt cylinder at “rest/level” is about 36” from ball-mount base to centerline of pin (on push-arm) …but again, my equipment is NOT a D6D; so might be comparing apples and crab-apples!! ; )
This is what my D6C looked like with the blade level, which appears the same as D5Dans D5
You can download a parts book for a There is a parts book for a 06X D6D LGP for download here -->> https://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/CAT_D6D_TRACTOR_6X1115_AND_UP_ENGINE_3306_8Z1827_AND_UP_PARTS.pdf I now think the tilt ram is the right one for the machine.
Thanks!
In my planet we use to extend or retract the screw tilt rod to increase or decrease the cutting angle... Usually it gives some room to that, normally we set the rod so the blade tilts evenlly, when the need to push and cut a lot of dirt apears one shortens the rod to alow the maximum angle backwards keeping some tilt to alow turns on the push. If need to grade apears the blade angle full forward gives a better finish, that is achieved by extending the rod as one likes. That rod should allow that, if not then an incorrect fittment, or incorrect rod might be the problem. good luck