I've a problem that has arisen from what I imagine to be low oil in the transmission, and that situation will be explored today out in the mountains when I get there. The Service code is 113 E0594.2, probably E for empty,
E594 is High Transmission Oil Temperature Level 2 Warning. Activates at 110° C (230° F) - Resets at 104° C (219.2° F) Trans lube oil temp is calculated by software using the following: · Power train sump temperature · Torque converter temperature · Engine coolant temperature Check the temperature of the listed systems. Modify the operating conditions to lower the temperature.
Thanks Nige, I'm chasing this again today, so I'm going to change the 155ltrs of oil, and replace the screen at the converter, and the filters x two tomorrow, new breather last month. I'm shifting 1,000 ton of stacked ground over 4mtrs high and once ripped it's good to move though their long pushes, and steep starts to get it trenched. I only have to stop 5min and the engine coolant returns to normal, and although it is signalling high torque converter temp it's not showing that on the gauge but is on the engine coolant, (probably the trans heating the engine via its cooling process). So, it's getting explored as well. We decided that we'd change the trans oil at 250 hours and filters as we had no idea when it was last changed, but did the filters anyway, so it's in the scope of do it now.
If the transmission is heating the engine coolant you would definitely see that on your powertrain temp gauge on the dash as this temp reads the oil coming out of the torque converter as it goes from tc outlet directly to the powertrain cooler. Does the powertrain temp gauge seem to be working correctly? One way to check is to Do a 3rd gear tc stall with brakes applied and watch your temp gauge. If it goes up towards the red and then clocks back down when you return to neutral and high idle, no load; that would indicate it is working correctly. The cooling system shouldn’t have an issue keeping the engine temp down so long as it is clean and functioning correctly.
Yeah, that's correct, but I can't do a third gear tc stall, third gear operation is taken out. The gauge is working fine, it's obviously a cooling system problem, I'm off to get a few things from CAT and go see what the result is. I stopped three times within 5 hours working for about ten minutes, and it cooled down to normal temperature. Then upon starting into it again slowly rose again. I'll attach three photos, 9.11am, 1.16pm and when I called it done at 2.45pm
You can do it in 2nd but you'll need to be on ground that has good traction and put the blade up against something solid as well as standing on the brakes.
Have you tested the pressures in the transmission/converter recently.? Forgive me if I'm mis-interpreting but looking at your photo #996 (@ 1:16 I assume) the engine coolant temp is pegged far higher than the converter outlet temperature. Are you 100% sure that your problem is powertrain-related and not the engine cooling system not getting the heat away from the powertrain oil fast enough.? I'd suggest that you have a look at this thread. Old mate with his 6H is up against the same thing of high coolant temperatures and I'd bet that it's more than possible some combination of the same factors that are mentioned in his thread could well be the root cause of your problem. The first thing I'd suggest is to get an infra-red thermometer and shoot the temps of the top & bottom coolant hoses in the radiator. HeavyEquipmentForums
Well Nige, I took 205 litres of water out today with the submersible pump, hose and an adjustable nozzle I use to concentrate high pressure into the cores. Operated into the push until the cooling gauge was at normal. Dropped the front pans and concentration was on the aftercooler, as all the six cores were replaced last week. The six cores washed straight through. But the aftercooler was resisting the water in a lot of places, so I blasted it engine side to get what I could past the Hydraulic cooler and fan blades, and what I did manage to get clean, revealed to my son, and me with a torch and glasses on, that almost all of the fins on the engine side of the aftercooler are swept up like sails in the wind, not much cooling happening there. So, it's parked up again, and tomorrow being Sunday, well go back out and remove the aftercooler, ready for replacement. Interesting is the thread you led me to Nige, I've done almost everything he has, and this problem was also heightened by the high temps we've had these last seven days, and like his problem, cool weather was getting me through with no alerts, and acceptable gauge readings. I'll put some photos up of it upon its removal.
His is a 3306 D6H, we've got a 1974 D6D, with an early version of the 3306, and had my share of heating issues. In our R is a C9, and today as a matter of interest I felt the bottom of the individual cores after I ran it to op temp, and they were all too hot to hold, at the top of the cores they were all cool. The two-pass system works well. If only I had seen the aftercooler in that condition while I had the two cores out near it, I did look in the back of it and all around to see if I could find what might have hit the leaking core but didn't see how bad the aftercooler fins were, and used the air to blow through it and feel how well it was getting through on the inside, I thought it was ok. Now to find the removal procedure, to get the aftercooler out,
Hi Slicksta My thread is the one Nige directed you to. Was just reading through yours and was going to second Nige’s recommendation of an Infrared Temp Gun, that should get you honed in on where your heating dramas are most likely coming from and more importantly what sections of the cooling system are working the way they should be (easily identifying if there not). Top and bottom hoses being the starting point. Anyway sounds like you might have already found your problem (Low air flow caused by blocked aftercooler). If the cores were cool at the top though sounds like they were doing their job… were you thinking it being blocked was causing hot intake air as well and that was the heating cause? It doesn’t really matter I guess as long as it fixes the drama, I’m just curious. Anyway best of luck and I hope you have it sorted!!!! Look forward to seeing the pics when you get it out, one last thought, you wouldn’t be able to straighten the fins with a fin comb would you? Probably nearly impossible if the fins are a Z pattern.
Yeah Jaj, that's my issue, bit embarrassed my son found it, but he was in my workshop at age 11, and spent weekends sometimes working for my opposition, that wanted to indenture him. With the D6R, it's a C9 engine, the water from the engine, goes into a bottom tank that is divided longways, on the left side front section, up the front and down the fan side into that divided tank and out the right-side bottom, up over and down into the thermo housing and down again into the pump, a double pass arrangement. Cores are double pass cores of course to match the arrangement. It was the front section I felt and was enlightened by the temp difference. Yeah, once back running again I'll keep the infrared on board to check what's happening. We talked about finning it but will make that decision tomorrow after getting it out, but they must be worn thin to be brushed up like that. Nige has been a help to me, like no other, he's top shelf help and knowledge.
Ahhh we all feel a bit that way when someone points out something that we think we should have spotted. I haven’t got kids yet, but I’d be a bit proud of your son though, someone must have taught him well !!! yeah the double pass cores sound very interesting, I’d seen the diagrams of them but it sounds like a lot cooler setup then what I have. I haven’t got to operate any dozers newer than what I have, so haven’t seen them in action. Absolutely 200% agree about Nige. I looked at a heap of threads on here and I had a bit of a list of people I was hoping would respond to mine and they all did and quite a few others too! I was and am shocked and very great-full, this forum seems a great place to be a part of!!! Best of luck with your machine
Well upon not being able to find an aftercooler in Aus, and told by the Cat dealer, "there's the cost, but I don't know where we can get one from", I contacted our well know aftermarket source and told yes, but seven days. So, I wasn't going to remove mine until I had the replacement in the Ute. Eight days later, Tuesday gone, with the delivery in hand I went and removed the troubled cooler, only to find the replacement from Miami, had the spigots in the wrong place. I'm off to Queensland Monday to have the Problem Sorters Dept rectify the dilemma. And our aftercooler, clogged badly with most of the fan side fins half closed, and thin, easy to move, worn thin. Soooo, unable to say if the problem is in hand yet.
I'd put that thing in a shallow soak tank for a couple days with a good industrial strength cleaner solution and rinse it out THEN have a look and see how bad the fins are. If it doesn't leak that is, those fins are pretty close together anyway even when the coolers are new. If it had decent air flow you could use it while you did some research for a different one that didn't break the bank.JMHO
Got back last night after an eight hour round trip, that has left me with a decision to make, and that will be tomorrow, after hopefully the maker responds to my suppliers' requests, regarding the other one they have listed in stock. If it's been made to spec, I'm 'only' another eight days away from fitting a new one from another order. If not........, there is only one other to be found and from the advertisement its of poor quality. Then to re-core one maker is four weeks minimum but they'll do their best, and Cat has said up to eight weeks + for a new one. So, your suggestion of a clean out might be in the arena, with a carton of beer to get through the fin job.