There are two versions of the PCC. The service manual shows the two part version as the standard. I don't know the history of this machine prior to my acquisition. I need to remove the PCCs, but I don't know what version I have. Can the version be determined from these photos? I've got the spline tool to remove the bottom part, but I am putting about 500+ ft-lbs on them and nothing is budging. I can put more torque on it, but I'm afraid of damaging them.
It would need to be out to know.
My 2 cents that look like the later one piece one I remember the two piece ones the top piece wasn't flat it had a little step on top
SLK001. Why are you trying to pull the pre-combustion chambers?
I am overheating. Traced it to air in the coolant - I can put a plastic bag over the cap and it inflates in about 30 seconds. I'm hoping that one of the PCCs is leaking, which is a fairly easy fix. If not, then I probably have a bad head gasket. I had some valve issues last year which required the removal of the heads, thus new head gaskets. I finally got the first PCC out. I had to go buy an extension for my 3/4" sockets and use a 6' cheater, but it finally gave way. And, it is a one-piece PCC.
The orings blew on the combustion chamber on a 3306, in my 980B loader. I replaced them and they blew out again shortly after. I found out on here from Tctractors, my oil cooler would be clogged. Sure enough it was. Cleaned that out and fixed the problem. Then the radiator got plugged ,I guess from the increased flow. Tctractors also told me that would happen.
This is what my PCCs typically are looking like: The part number is 2P483.
How do you know if it's air or combustion gases in the radiator? Does the machine still have the pup motor on it or electric start? Just thinking out loud here.
If @tctractors said so then you would do well not to ignore his recommendations. My 2c, YMMV.
Just out of interest what did you have for coolant in that engine.?
I have always used 50/50 antifreeze-distilled water. I finally got all 4 PCCs off the machine. One had a lot of carbon under the seal. The seat for the bottom gasket was no longer flat, so maybe this is my leak. I'm just going to replace all four of the PCCs. I tried to see if I could detect combustion gases by sniffing at the radiator cap. I couldn't smell any. Machine has been electric since I've owned it.
I did not ignore him.I didn't get his advice until after the second time
Judging by the state of the chamber in that photo I would suggest you consider changing the brand of anti-freeze. My comment was directed at the person who started this thread, not yourself. My apologies if that wasn’t clear. @SLK001 - it would benefit you to pull off the engine oil cooler and check it out for plugging. That could be the one cause of the overheating.
Or 2P0484 is the glow plug version if interested.
I never paid much attention to pre cups back in the day, but being a machinist, and knowing what the interior of them looks like, I don't see how they can be one piece. That one looks 2 piece to me see the step area above were the threads are that screw into the head? It looks like a parting seam there to me. But then its missing the serations or splines that would be needed. So Nige or whom ever how would the interior profile be done on a one piece pre cup? Casting would be the only option I can see. Another place that can add pressure is cylinder cavitation pits, but then they also leak coolant into the crankcase oil. Most common is head gasket. New head gaskets a year ago, doesn't mean anything if the job wasn't done correctly. What were the protrusions? Heads flat? Deck flat? Any ether used to start it?
I’ve heard of two piece cups but never seen one. The post without the glow plug holes were common to the machines that still had pony motors for starting. All the 46A units I worked on had been converted to direct electric and had the plugs. All the 14A units I’ve maintained, still had the pony motors and none of those worked. We would pull start those machines when we needed to use them.
They are all really two piece, early chambers had a bonnet with seals, later so called one piece are actually two piece furnace brazed into one, not unheard of to have them separate at the brazed joint.
I've always used Prestone, but I've only had the machine for 3 years.
Old magnet, the first pic of the pre chamber, no way can that be machined like that, as the tool needed would not fit in the top hole. The second pic is just like the one the OP removed, see the seam. The first pic they would have to make the cuts then heat it up red an use a press to upset the whole thing into the shape. Thanks for the pics
The second picture I'm sure it's a 3300 chamber I can remember seeing the joint and bronze splatter on them but I don't remember a joint on the ones on bigger engines I have no prof on how they made the chambers but I would guess it was cast with a core in it
Here's another picture, you can barley make out the part line horizontal across the chamber. They are machined as separate parts and brazed together. As mentioned earlier they have been known to separate at the joint making the removal fun.
The corrosion could have been there before the machine came into your ownership in that case. Be prepared for the rest of the engine internals to be in a similar condition.
So then the key point is they are all 2 piece?, there can't not be a one piece with a cut chamber. Only like mentioned a casting, and not talking cast iron but cast steel, just like the final cases that are welded to the bevel case.
Probably doesn’t matter, but modern Prestone does not contain the additive package chemistry required to prevent the various types of corrosion that engine is subject to. Next thread will be about the leaking liners and where did those worm holes come from.
What brand HAS the proper additives.
You want a HD conventional coolant like Caterpillar DEAC or NAPA Part #: NAF HD1GAL fully formulated heavy duty with SCA. Look for ASTM D6210 (fully formulated for heavy-duty systems). Without going into a chemistry lesson, I would not use a Modern ELC = Long Life diesel engine coolant. Some of the gaskets in that engine can’t handle it.
Ho yas….. Don’t forget the condition of the inside of the radiator.
IIRC Old World Industries sell a product from the PEAK line of coolants that meets that spec. We used to purchase all our coolants from them although they were ELC not DEAC. PEAK Auto - PEAK Auto - Old World Industries Learn more about PEAK product offerings, stay up to date the latest PEAK Squad news, and check out how-to videos in our DIY Hub. www.owi.com