sonetimes while pushing in first gear I will hear and feel a vibration and tracks may stall briefly.. any ideas what this may be ? I'm a newbie so any help would be appreciated
check the biscuts on the drive coulping
I second that, and/or Engine mount cushions.
And while you're checking/replacing all the above, check the alignment of the drive coupling
could be torque converter
I sure hope not I just had the transmission rebuilt and they Said the torque converter looked good . it happens when I'm pushing and lugs down and will vibrate and then the tracks will stop moving .until I pull bucket up to lesson the load . are the tracks supposed to stop when put under pressure or should they always spin ?
we replaced the biscuits when the transmission was rebuilt .that was only 200 hours ago
w is there some kinda adjustment for the drive coupling I'm not sure how to tell if it's out of alignment?
I'm assuming that the vibration started soon after the transmission was re-installed.? Have you pulled up the floor plate to check that you don't have loose bolts somewhere in the coupling.? While you're doing that it would be a good idea to check the condition of the flexible mounts (F & R) for the engine and make sure the hardware is all tight. Yes. The alignment of the drive coupling is adjusted by adding or removing metal shims under the engine mounts. Before installing the new biscuits the two flanges of the coupling should be checked for running true to one another using a dial indicator. Post a Serial Number and I'll upload the information for your machine.
thanks nige
I think this should be all you need. The shims/washers for adjusting the position of the engine in order to align the two flanges of the coupling are #3 & #6 shown on Page 7. Don't take too much notice of the listed quantities, it's more a case of "use as required" to achieve an alignment within the specified tolerance.
thank you for the info. how do I tell if it's not aligned correctly?
The procedure for checking the alignment is included in pages 4/5 the document.
It should spin the tracks. Make sure your TC gauge is working and watch the temp.
well I'm actually having issues with the tc gauge .they put a new cat tc gauge in when the trans was rebuilt .less then 100 hours on the new gauge and the face started turning grey and eventually turned completely grey . also the face of the gauge looked like it was sucking in almost like it was melting ..I took the gauge back to cat and they gave me a new one .I installed this one myself this time and within 80 hours it has done the same thing ..any idea what would cause this ?
thank you
any ideas on where I can get the dial
You don't need to get say a expensive gage like Starrett. Try Amazon with good reviews say $20 or less. I've never done a set up for this job. I used 2 gages in...... Reverse alignment is the measurement of the axis, or centerline, of one shaft to the relative position of the axis of an opposing shaft centerline . This measurement can be projected the full length of both shafts for proper positioning there is a need to allow for thermal movement. There are YouTube video's on it. I'm pretty sure there are simple set ups. When using long or skinny rods you need to account for the droop that gravity puts on the rod.
Something like this maybe.? - Although the arm may be a bit clunky to fit in the space available. https://www.amazon.com/Installation-Accessories-Indicator-Precision-Shockproof/dp/B08DRBSH79/ref=sr_1_12?crid=Q4X8D3PKSOES&keywords=dial+test+indicator+with+magnetic+base&qid=1667574277&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjE1IiwicXNhIjoiMy41NSIsInFzcCI6IjIuMTYifQ==&sprefix=dial+test+indicator,aps,197&sr=8-12
The DTI is easy but you can use a simple bit of wire or welding rod with the flux hit off, put a point on the ends and use your intelligence as 2 points come together, besides I very much doubt that the drive coupling is giving you that much drama, usually the drive pucks fail after low hours and this tends to make the alignment detail worth checking, with your stalling tracks it's more than a wobbly drive puck. tctractors
I told him to check torque temp
ok thank you very much
Do the manner in which the torque temp gauges fail provide some indication? Seems almost to me like they’re melting.
.any ideas of what it could be
could it be a final drive going bad ?
before the gauge went completely grey it seemed to be working like it should .according to the gauge the tc wasn't getting hot
Could just be faulty gauges I guess
Is there any way the bulb end of the gauge could be getting vacuum from a suction tube plugged
it's the second one to do the exact thing
I have no idea . where would I check for that ?
The upper left indicator is what I used. There seems not to be cheap ones, the type in the bottom picture are fine, if they fit. Same with a magnetic base, great if it fits and doesn't move. Always do the last sweep twice, it has to repeat. The large button helps it go over ruff spots without jarring the indicator and throwing things off. Get one with a movement of at least .1"-.2" it helps to get started roughing in. I started with a straight edge ruler most of the time. Use a inspection mirror to see the far side indicator. I used a computer with this method and later lasers and computer. This was to get within .002" T.I.R. angular/parallel, up and down and side to side. If using TC's method works to get you to where your good. I suggest it be used. It has the proper principals. There are many more ways to do it. No need for fancy clamps cut a V in a block of steel to mount it with a large hose clamp drill a hole in the other end with a set screw in the side to hold the rod. The rod clamp is from Zoro $13.
I might have posted up pictures in the past in that sprocket pulling thing of doing the run out with a DTI on a puck drive transmission, anyhow if you think of things you will understand how easy it is to do this task with a length of wire clamped to the spline on the transmission, you remove the pucks and drive flange off the transmission, clamp the double L shaped wire to the trans shaft (use your brains here) with the pointed end near touching the plate on the flywheel at the 12 O clock spot, then turn it slowly to see how things look, the front engine mount starts with a rubber boss behind the front pulley that will have lost a bit of flesh over the years, it is easy to replace if you have the tooling as the front pulley can take 20 plus ton pressure to free off, then the left to right and center position is gauged with a scratch line off the pointy bit with both the fly wheel and the trans shaft turned as required, you will always find the front of the engine to have dropped with the easy fix being shims or washers tucked in as required, the vibration and stalling of the tracks is not caused by the puck drive its back from this I feel as pucks will not cause drive hesitation. tctractors
thank you guys for the info .so here is some info that I just thought of when we has the transmission out I noticed that there was some play in the shaft coming out of the steering bevel gear case I had them take that out and and see what was wrong with it .I'm pretty sure it had a few chunks missing out of the gear so we replaced that aswell .could that be an issue making the vibration?