I was recently talking to a friend and we couldn’t agree on what the correct way to secure a load was. On say a 12000 lb skid steer I said a grade 70 chain 3/8” and binder on each of the 4 corners. He said a grade 70 chain 3/8” and binder one on front and one on back running from side to side. I always thought the rule was secure each corner individually and to calculate the chain WLL strength by (machine operating weight/2=chain WLL needed). Please let me know what you guys think! Thanks!
My understanding is he would be correct IF it was under 10k lbs. otherwise you are correct
Also....just because it meets the law or conventional wisdom doesn’t mean it’s the proper way to secure a load.
I saw no mention of chaining the attachment either. I chain down loader buckets independent of the chains for the piece of equipment. Sometimes it is just a diagonal chain, but I get it tight and it serves the purpose.
I seem to remember in years past that the hold downs in total had to be at a minimum three times the weight of the load. I don't remember any regulation that stated how or where the tie downs were done. Has that changed?
Read here... https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulatio...ecurement-chapter-10-heavy-vehicles-equipment
It looks like those are minimum standards and the states can modify them to require higher standards. I have a question as to what counts as a tie down. Say someone puts a chain from one side and loops through something on a machine and down to the other side of the trailer, and then puts the binder on one side of the chain, does that count as two points of tie down?
No that is one anchor point but you will get credit for the full strength of the chain, chaining direct you only get 50%
Thanks fo your responses guys! I really appreciate it!
The right ways to the best of my knowledge is one on each corner and one on the attachment. Aka two on the the back 2 on the bucket for this example here.
I use a single 20' 3/8" chain on the front of the 120 excavator, but use each end of it independently to cross-chain the tracks with two ratchet binders. Forces are in, forward, and down. I added tie down loops to the top corners of the frame at the rear location for the track, and pull it in, back, and down there with short pieces of 3/8" and ratchets, then i chain down the arm/bucket at the crook of the bucket. Forces are down and back on the bucket. I just chained it down today to mobilize to a new job, but did not think it through. I had a phone malfunction and did not get with the plumber first. i got down there and everyone had left early for the long weekend so I got to drag it back up hill to the shop till Tuesday ( DOH!)
All loaded up and the gate was locked, DOH!
Nice truck you got there
I default to excess, If ONE chain at each end is prescribed I will use two. Was in flatbed trucking for a few years where we were tasked to tie down severe loads accorded by client patterns and quantities, roll steel set 'suicide ' generally called for 6 1/2" chains and ratchet binders as well as significant cribbing, three each direction. Situated 'Roll Over', received 8 of same where we oft defaulted to 8 either way. Machinery is still tied down by myself with separate chains and binders to each of four corners, if requirement is two at each corner then are still all separate devices.
Curious how those cross chains would compare to going to inside of pads to outside of frame rail, I would think with the chain so long it wouldn't be nearly as good? I go inside of pads to outside of frame on each corner of 210, 5/8" chains. Don't chain down the arm/bucket, technically you're suppose to here no one does and never been stopped it's really a waste of time unless you need the WLL, only time I do is if I have another attachment in the bucket.
I chain tracks to pull in every time. I got a freebie from the county sheriff one day. He said he was waiting for me to roll with my backhoe with no chain on the bucket, so he could write me up. Ever since I chain anything that can move.
Good advice.
Twehous did not secure the mast root on the American crane they dumped on the highway They were fined here for the incident and are now tying down as required. They are still hauling as is their big money business.
That answered some ??? but at one time every one was net rapping junk cars. If the cars are not crushed but stacked 2 high do i steal need rap? I have been chaining the top cars with 4 chains and the bottom with 2 chains. Some times i use 10 or 12 chains on 3 cars thats alot of chains.
It does seem like a lot of chains, but I'm sure it's a case of rather being safe than sorry? Plus, cars tend to bounce around a bunch if you don't have them cinched way down. I see a lot of the junk car guys by me throwing nets or tarps over the cars after they've been crushed
I use grade 70 short chains and one binder for each corner. I have binders that hooks right onto the trailer D-Ring. I'm too lazy to climb over and around the trailer and pull a long heavy chain through especially here in Seattle where it rains a lot. For extra attachments, I have very heavy duty 2" wide ratchet straps. I buy the binders from Harbor Freight. Cut off one hook, and replace it with a G70 Clevis Slip Hook w/latch.
I hauled one of the company rigs to the dealer for transmission work the other day. I am not set up with axle hooks or tire baskets, so it was a pain in the arse. I know you are supposed to strap down the unsprung part of the load. I compromised, and chained the two hooks both ways up front, the hitch in back, and wrapped the rear axle with a strap. Nothing moved or loosened, but I would prefer the tire bonnets. There will not likely be a next time. All the other work rigs are too wide for my trailer, thank goodness.
Haul a load of drill pipe. Wrap the pipe tighten binders drive tighten again drive tighten again drive tighten again repeat several times . The damn stuff just keeps getting loose. Seems like it would still settle after a million miles. I put straps over it and they loosen too. I hate hauling it.
Loads of steel tends to do that. Beams are bad for that too. What I've found works super well though is 'Speed Binders' Not cheap, but its easy to get a boatload of force on the chain, and impossible for the binder itself to loosen. I have them on every equipment trailer.
Sounds like me healing rolls of belt about every 50 miles stop and tighten them can make a 600 mile night a long one.
Hexagonal bundles of banded pipe were always the worst between moving around under straps or chains with softeners or the center pieces trying to work out the ends. Heavy pipe on notched cribbing did some better but still would walk around on the cribbing.
Well now I had to buy some Speed binders they look like just what we need https://www.speedbinders.com/