I've searched the forums and found a few threads on changing a fan belt on the Case 580k. I also found this YouTube video ( ). In the Youtube video the guy basically drains all his hydraulic fluid, removes front counter weight, removes the front hydraulic pump and then replaces the belt. He said it took 4 hours to get everything off and then 4 hours to get everything back on. Does this sound right? In the other thread on this forum ( HeavyEquipmentForums ) it talked about removing 4 bolts and slipping off the pump. It did not talk about removing everything and emptying the hydraulic fluid - however, maybe this was a newer machine than mine. The backhoe in the youtube video looked to be about the same vintage as mine. Any insights, tips, tricks would be great. Thx Ron
I've never stripped the nose to change a belt. Take the 4 bolts out of the coupler on the harmonic balancer, and if it won't slide on the shaft, take the 2 pump bolts loose. You only need a 1/4 inch to get the belt through.
This Case (1988 series 1) has a hydraulic pump on the front and I'm told that has to come out in order to remove the fan belt. Does that ring a bell with anyone? Thx
A front mounted hydraulic pump is pretty much standard for the last 60 years on backhoes, and it makes changing the belt more difficult, not that difficult. Usually there is enough room/flex to slide the pump forward and give enough gap between the driveshaft and the pulley to get the belt through, like mitch said, without draining anything. Or take it all apart, might as well change the front oil seal and clean the radiator while you're at it.
Thanks Delmer. I've taken some pictures as I'm unsure which bolts to undo that allow the pump to slide forward. I'm told there are 4 bolts on the engine crank and that if I loosen them then I can slide out the pump. I'm just not sure exactly which bolts. I can see 4 bolts that i think actually hold the pulley on the engine crank. And then there are a couple of bolts that look like they are mounting the pump to the frame. Which ones am i undoing ? (Also seems like i have to have very tiny hands to get into this space). Picture above shows the 1 of 4 bolts that hold pulley onto crank. Picture below shows 1 of ? bolts holding pump onto frame
Nope, the bolt in the top pic holds the shaft adapter to the crank pulley. Loosen those 4 bolts and slide that adapter 1/4 inch away from the pulley, turn belt edgeways and slide it through. My hands are so big I have to order gloves and I have no trouble, loosen a bolt, turn the crank so the next bolt is up, repeat 4 times
Have changed dozens if not hundreds before and since the CDC engine came out and cannot ever remember having to remove the pump, That U you tube video would cost you $ 800.00 in the shop, I would change belts all day if I could collect that!! Should be able to knock that out in no more than 1.5- 2 hrs.
Thanks guys - so not the bolts in the first picture (which holds the shaft adapter to the crank pulley) but rather "those" bolts and slide the shaft adapter. Does anyone have a schematic to show me which bolts. Are the 4 bolts the ones that hold the pump to the frame - or something else? Sorry for being so thick here. Thx
Hi - took another picture hoping for approx location of the bolts. There are 2 arrows in the picture - i'm thinking its the bolts pointed to by the red arrow....and not the purple arrow...right?
Yes, the four bolts that hold the driveshaft to the crankshaft, the ones in the first picture on post #5.
See attached. And follow instructions above
Oh. okay - when Mitch said "Nope, the bolt in the top pic holds the shaft adapter to the crank pulley" i thought he meant no, those are the wrong bolts - but i think the "Nope" was in reference to my last sentence in post #5. Once again, thanks again for being so patient and understanding. Ron
Thx for the schematic - very helpful - much appreciated.
Okay - i got my alternator finally installed and thus able to raise the bucket and get a better picture of what i think i need to remove in order to slide the fan belt out. The picture taken from the drivers side shows 2 bolts with the red arrows....i'm thinking these are 4 bolts (2 on each side) that need to be loosened and then i should be able to back off this and get the belt out. I can't see very well what is behind this but it looks like the pump is attached to this.... If someone can confirm that its these bolts (and not the bolts pointed to by the green arrow) that would be great Also, i can't imagine its going to "slide" out that easily - should i be using a crowbar to get it to slide out ? I just don't want to force something that shouldn't be forced. Thx Ron
If you remove the 4 bolts with the red arrows you will need to move the pump and the bracket holding it several inches forward to pull the pump driveshaft out of the adapter. This may require disconnecting hoses from the pump, in that, draining the hydraulic system. It's been suggested that you remove the 4 bolts with the green arrows that hold the adapter to the crank pulley. Slide the adapter forward slightly, 1/4" or so, on the pump shaft splines, enough to slip the belt edge ways through between the adapter and pulley. Be careful not to loose the part #13 in the diagram, the adapter bushings.
If you remove the bolts with the red arrows, your engine will fall down! That bracket sits on two rubber mounts and the 4 bolts the red arrows point to hold up the front of the engine. This is a simple if somewhat annoying job. I swear I could have done it in the time I've spent typing about it! Just remove the 4 bolts the green arrows point to, use a screwdriver (I use a $5 Harbor Fake motorcycle tire iron) to pry the adapter forward a little and change the belt.
Ok - got it. Now one quick question. As per the image attached I think i can easily access the 3 bolts on the pulley marked by the green arrows...but the 4th bolt that is out of view and on the bottom - how the heck to I get to that? I looked from the under carriage and there is no access there... As well, i doubt this will easily "slide" off. Do i use a pry bar to remove?
Use a bar, rotate the engine around by hand to expose the bolts. On loose, Just pry the adapter towards the front a little, it doesn’t have to come clear off.
Got it. Thx Pittsburgh!
Okay - so baby steps here and apologies for dragging this on....but how does one rotate the engine by hand with a pry bar? There is nothing for me that i can see to turn the crank to expose the bottom bolt...I'm sure there is a trick but just don't know it....thx for any advice
Get a hold of a fan blade. It should turn by pushing or pulling on it. Usually it can only be turned one direction because the belt will slip.
If you can't turn it by the fan, loosen a couple of bolts, turn it by the one you haven't loosened.
Takes a 12 or 14 inch crows foot pry bar.
I also turn my fan by hand for lifter adjust,TDC, etc. turns easily