I have done internet searches and site searches here trying to find a way to change my moldboard's cutting edges without having others help me on a 16' moldboard, and so far I am not finding much information. I have always changed my own cutting edges and a few weeks ago while putting on new edges I felt a pop and sharp pain in my back, turned out I herniated a disc in my back. Now after it has healed, with my doctors approval I will be going back to work next week and am looking to see if there are better technique's or possibly "cradle" type equipment that will give my back some relief changing edges? I work alone out of a shop for the county and the nearest co-workers are 35 miles away which is inconvenient. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you might have.
This looks handy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wzduY4NUuY
On a bucket i run a 1" sling through the bucket bolt hole then through the corresponding hole on the cutting edge. Put a pry bay in the loop to stop the sling pulling back through. Then lift it into place with the crane. Now on a moldboard the cutting edge goes on top but can you angle the blade so it is pointing down.
Is this what you are looking for? http://www.drillspot.com/products/77042/Otc_5083_Blade_Buddy
I've never done a grader blade the way they show in the first video. I've always turned the moldboard with the bolts down and air gunned them off. If putting them on myself I just lowered the blade back to the ground and tilt the new edge onto the blade. I then stuck a couple of pry bars through the holes and lifted the mess up to an easy level to put the bolts in. I can't see spending a lot of money on a strap ratchet when the machine can do all the work.
That is a great gadget is it a Cat tool
How about switching to 4 foot sections. Alot easier to handle for one person.
Yair...It's a long time since I changed a grader cutting edge but it looks like that ratchet jigger in video does it back asswards for mine. Same as John C. mentions I believe I did it t'other way with nuts facing down and rattled off from underneath...the replacement blade was just slid or lifted on from the ute. When cutting edges for any machine came into the store I always had "D" handles (bent up out of 5/8 reo) welded to the front face and a couple of correct length bolts tack welded into the end holes. The handles allowed easy safe handling by a couple of hands or an easy slinging point if working with a crane. The welded bolts obviously gave instant alignment. When I say "correct length" bolts for any given machine I mean they are one thread short of a full nut. I wouldn't tolerate having blokes needing to grovell around under a scraper gas axing off overlong bolts because some b*****d was too slack to fit the right ones in the first place. As an example (every one on this board seems to be preoccupied with speed) an edge change a '27 took less than fifteen minutes. On a few occasions my three man crews did it in under twelve...just stinger and side blades of course, the ripper rigs took longer.
I do agree that the tool in the video is a bit of overkill, but when you have no choice but to change them by yourself then it is an option. I've changed blades many times over the years by myself. During winter operations at times I would have to switch between straight blades and serrated during a storm. I lot of these times by myself as the other guys were on the road. I've tried both ways, from underneath and the moldboard swung up to the side (as shown in the video). I found that with the blade underneath it was very hard on the back as you have to crouch down to lift the blade in the middle of the moldboard. Flipped out on the side I would lift it waist level and place a pinch bar in both outside holes, line the blade up and place one side in place at a time..put in a couple of bolts to hold it in place and repeat with the other blade. I would then lift the blade a little higher so I wouldn't be hunched over when placing the rest of the bolts and tightening. Having said that its still a 2 person job changing blades...makes it a hell of a lot easier on the back.
It is along time since i changed grader blade cutting edges , however i always swung blade up as shown on video , it was always easier specially when you are changeing them by your self, Now you have longer cutting edges that does make it more time consuming and some time difficult ,in bygone days you didnt have any one to help and you where miles away in the scrub doing pioneering Roads
Something you might want to consider, we run serrated carbide blades for everything but shouldering. They come in 2,3, or 4 foot lengths. Some people call them carbide ice blades.... Easier to change and they run a long time too. Whe they get worn in the middel of the blade you can rotate them and put the outside ones in the center. I've seen 1500 hours on a set on a lighter machine, less on a heavy machine that spent a lot of time chewing ice off frozen crushed gravel where they get chipped up. These guys are literally in teh backyard of our shop and sell them. http://www.eshubbell.com/products/Grader Blades.pdf