So my dingo model #22303 isn't charging the battery properly, checked the 2 output wires and they are both showing around 14volts. But the battery does not go about 10 volts. Any ideas why this would be happening?
I'm having a similar problem with my Prowler. If you find any info please let me know and if I find anything out I'll let you know. What output wires did you get the 14 volts on?
Looking at a wiring schematic I have for a dingo 427, the output from the regulator goes to fuse 2, 25 amp then goes to the I termenal of the ign switch. From there it should go back to the stater from the B terminal and to the battery, hope that helps.
Well its a Dingo 22303. I am leaning towards Voltage Regulator at the moment, all cables seem fine and everything is hooked up in the correct order I believe.
NC, Not sure what kind of setup (engine etc.) on the 22303 does it have an alternator? If so check power at the alternator. if not the power is probably generated behind the flywheel by coils. I have a 24 hp Honda gas engine on mine and found that on the right side as you look at it there are 2 wires of the same color comming out from behind the flywheel (mine are grey) they go to the rectifier (convert to DC). disconnect those wires and test for "AC" power (mine is 30+ VAC) If you don't have ac voltage there. The problem is the coils or connections behind the flywheel. if you do have ac power then check the return wire from the rectifier for dc 13 VDC +or -. if not is a bad rectifier. Or you could have the problem that I found mine to be. Bad connections, dirty plugs (at the ignition switch), bad splices. etc. Turned out to be a simple fix. Cleaned and checked connections and all is good. I hope the same for you. Let me know more.
It is a Kubuta Diesel. The alter has 2 blue wires coming from the back when engine is running I checked DC both wires showing around 15 volts. Thoughts?
One of the DC wires with 15 VDC should connect to the same terminal on the starters solenoid as the red battery terminal ( may be fused; check fuse ifthere is one). this charges the battery after the machine starts. After starting the machine, measure DC from the Positive solenoid terminal to ground. That 15 VDC should be present. If it is then your positive battery cable is not making a good connection or is bad. Or you have a shorted cell in the battery. if it isn't you have a bad wire from alt to solenoid. Please let me know results.
If you can; post some pics of the wiring area.
By the by I'm a Firefighter now but was an electronics tech for 35 + years. we'll find the problem!
25+,,,,,,, I'm not that old.. damn 3 why do they put it so close to the 2... hahahaha
So the 2 wires that go from the alt goes to a plug that connects to the voltage regulator. See attached pics
oops
Great pics!! That small white wire (looks white) in your last picture that is connected to the solenoid above the red battery wire should have 15 Volts Dc on it to ground. if so bad connection to battery, bad wire or bad battery. If not bad regulator / rectifier (silver/aluminum thing with the cooling fins), bad connection or bad wire. You're almost there! Measure that voltage(solenoid with red and small white wire) to ground and it will tell us which direction to go. Pray for 15 Volts DC!!!!!
NC, I'm leaving the computer now. Won't be back for some time.... If you want more info after taking that measurement call me @412-965-1580. my cell.
Changed batteries just to get it to start, metered white wire and red wire on solenoid, getting 11.9 volts same as what battery is metered at. Checked battery after running was 11.9 when I first attempted to start I checked battery first was at 12.7 volts. So a few days ago gut feeling was regulator went ahead and ordered it, are we on the same page that the regulator is to blame for not recharging battery? And the dummy battery light on console being illuminated?
Sounds like Regulator/rectifier to me. And or bad connections. Some isopropyl alcohol and and acid brush would tell for sure. I never spend $50.00 when $1.00 does the trick. Keep me advised...
Ok so the new voltage regulator has arrived, still showing the dumbie charging system light on console.... What next...
What is the stand alone voltage on your battery (not connected to anything)? Must be at 12.5 to excite the engine coils to create the feedback to recharge the battery. I know sounds wrong because we are all used to starting a car with a low battery and they charge up while running. These don't as far as I was told. Gotta have a good battery to get a good battery. Also connections! Check and clean all connections. I just got my regulator today $135.00 going to put it in and hope it works...
NCPipe, that's a permanent magnet alternator, it produces alternating current (AC), not direct current (DC). They have a low amp output therefore don't charge real hot at idle, engine has to be revved to get a good charge from them. You should test those two blue output wires with multi tester set on AC current, can't remember what voltage should be though, thinking it should be more than 20 to 25 volts AC.
So will check both wires for AC and repost, thinking the alt is bad?
Don't know at this point, only saying you need to test it to find out. Since it only has two wires going to it tells you it's a permanent magnet alternator, does not have an external exciter wire, meaning, when it's turning, the permanent magnets create the magnetic field to generate current. Being that it's an alternator, it generates AC current. And since AC current does not have the equivalent horsepower as DC current, it has to generate at least 20 to 25 volts AC to produce required 13 +/- volts DC output at the rectifier.
Ok so alt tested fine, checked the ground checking everything seems good. But I am still getting the dumby charging system light on console and after a few days of use battery is dead....
Do you have the electrical schematic?
No.
see if this helps. it's for the model 322= dingo. http://www.imarksweb.net/aws/view.php?u=aHR0cDovL2JzZWhvbWUubmV0L3BkZi8xMlZfV1BNLnBkZg==
battery not charging = charging wire is not supplying power or enough power. Or the battery is bad. If the battery is good; then the charging wire is not supplying power or enough power. Mine was a bad rectifier and harness. You just bought a new rectifier... wired correct?? don't go by the last guys wiring.... The last guy that wired mine had his head up his butt.
sorry just read this guide and it doesn't explain the dingo.. it said it did. ill keep looking
I think you can download the schematic here but you have to sign up. http://www.blitzdownloads.com/search/2505/wiring+diagram+toro+dingo+322.html
Which one is the charging wire?
The one that returns from the regulator/rectifier to the starter solenoid (same side as the battery connection) usually a white wire.
GOOD MORN. I'VE BEEN READING ABOUT YOUR PROWLER. I HAVE IN MY SHOP THE SAME PROBLEM (UNABLE TO GET WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR THE PROWLER SIDE OF THE UNIT). I'M A HONDA DEALER AND RECENTLY REPLACED THE MOTOR,BUT I'M HAVING TROUBLE BRINGING THE 20th CENTURY WIRING TO THE 21st CENTURY ha.ha. AS WITH YOUR UNIT I AM PLAGUED WITH TOO MANY HANDS ON THIS THING FROM THE PAST. WERE YOU ABLE TO FIND ANY DIAGRAMS? MY SER.#IS 0162. ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE HELPFUL. THANK YOU, BRIAN
Brian, Yes I did find the schematic. Actually there are several. I can email them to you or post them here. Problem is that I have the night watch (firefighter) it's 3:45 AM I leave for a 9 day vacation in the morning and I don't have the info here. it's on the home computer. I will do my best to get it to you before I leave if I can... It was a simple fix for me. I got the parts list from mertz and ordered everything and replaced everything including the high range switch ($55.00) man does that make it go fast!!! Total cost was about $400.00 and now it is factory.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE , MY E-MAIL [email protected] LETS CHAT WHEN YOU GET A CHANCE. THANK YOU SIR, BRIAN
Bringing this back up. Still have not been able to track down the problem. I think the only thing left to do is replace the battery cable, but why would that not charge the battery? Everything else has been replaced.
I guess that you are welcome for the schematics I sent even without any thanks on your part. If the battery cable positive wire or the wire going to ground or the ground itself does not have a "GOOD" connection you get "NO" charge. If the connection is less than adiquite = no charge or even discharge!
Hi .... greeting..... try check the magnet on rotor after switch on... if there is no magnet... so check the carbon brush... maybe its too short than it cant touch the slip ring...
Sorry about that Fireman and Thank You for the drawings. My bad. No excuse. The only 2 things left I feel is that white wire in the original photos, it is a 2 piece wire, I replaced the shorter end from the starter as you suggested. Can not tell where the 2nd half goes... Other than in my mind all it leaves is the positive and negatives from the battery, but it starts up just fine, just does not recharge. Have been switching batteries back and forth every few days...
It is I that am sorry NCPIPELINE. I was mistaken you for UNIVERSAL. I don't see a white wire in the photos. I will tell you that I have a white wire on mine that attaches to the positive end of the starter. It comes from the rectifier and has like 14 volts on it at high idle; less at a slower idle. From there it goes to the battery via the red battery cable. When you bought the new rectifier did you buy a new cable harness for it? I did and thank God I did. I had a bad wire in the harness; not at the end but "in" the harness.
It is not unusual for corrosion to start at the battery post and creep towards the starter, inside the cable insulation. I have seen it happen with varying amounts of severity. If it is severe the insulation swells sometimes it does not swell.
Ok. Which way would you go first. New positive and negatives or harness?
All of it first!
10-4
Let me know how it goes. Shouldn't be too expensive. Hope that the rectifier wasn't damaged by a bad wire!! Good Luck...
Will do. Does that happen? I found both wires and harness for around 80 bucks I think. Hard to tell from Diagrams which harness I need. Check this out for me and tell me what you think I need. https://landscapersolutions.toro.co...ommunityID=230&PageID=30048#drawingResultPage When you get to the page just click on look up parts. Then there will be the list of all the parts pages.
What year and serial # ?
2005 model 22303 see 25xxxx199
The rectifier cable would be with the engine parts. what engine does it have. deisel, kohler, model #, serial # etc.
Kubota diesel
model #, serial # etc. of the kubota diesel? Also I was rereading this post and in step 15 & 16 I was looking for the voltage of the white wire and we blew past it with a rectifier change. you have to disconnect the white wire to the starter (let it dangle but don't let it touch a ground) then start the machine and test from white wire to a "good" ground. No or low (below 12Volts) voltage means harness/regulator is bad. This voltage should be bad because you said that you tested the voltage from white/redwire and it was the same as the battery; You were just measuring the battery to ground at a different location. That means that the battery cable is good. The white wire returns from the rectifier to charge the battery. At least thats the way it works on mine... My # is 412-965-1580 if you call we could do this alot faster. I have carple tunnel and this typing is a bitch....
Can't find the harness on the site you sent. looked on the kubota site but need the series and model and serial # of the engine.
Well just an update guys, finally had some time to try to get this settled once and for all. The key switch was not passing dc power back through. Replaced the key switch and all is good... Dingo recharge works as follows, AC dynamo to voltage regulator, comes out regulator dc power back to switch, where it crosses over and goes back to battery.
Wow; Great news! Feels good to conquer! Hope everything continues to work for you...
Ahhh gremlins are creeping back in!!!!