Greetings every. I'm new to this site and trying to Learn how to navigate.Excuse me if this question Has been asked before. I'm about to change out The air compressor (air over hydro brakes). The compressor is Sandwiched between the engine and fuel injection pump. How do I ensure the injection will be in proper timing when I connect it back to the compressor? ALL good suggestion Will be greatly appreciated!
My email is [email protected] It has a cummins engine Thanks.
If it's the old Cummins PT system, just one fuel line in and one fuel line out, there's no timing to the fuel pump, it's done at the injectors. The fuel pump just regulates pressure to the fuel rail in the head. Cheers, Lanway
It's true that the injector pump itself is not "timed" but the air compressor is timed. Not so much for making the engine run right but because there are markings on the pulley that are used when doing a tune-up of the engine. Been a few years since I bought a REMAN Cummins compressor but it used to be common to get a compressor that did not have the crankshaft in it. You can carefully slip the old connecting rod off the crankshaft and then slip the new one on it. This would assume it was a Cummins compressor. If it has a Bendix compressor I belive they were mounted with a splined coupler so the drive did not have to be removed to replace the compressor.
Pump Timing The new pump is a cummins reman. fully assembled. Should I separate the pump from the engine just as it is. Or should I position the engine crank in a TDC pisition? Not sure in asking the right question. The is a white dot on the Splined gear of the new pump. The machine has no brake operation At all.shiuld it have any even with the bad pumo?
Does this compressor have a spline drive on the end opposite the fuel pump mounting end? If so you can just unbolt the old one at this same point and bolt on the reman one. If the new compressor has a shaft that will go through the front cover then have the pulley mounted on it that one will need to have the compressor timed. If you could post a picture or two of the new compressor it would help a lot to explain things. If you have no air pressure you will have no brake action, it's that simple!
Hello everyone. Thanks for the very helpful Information. Haven't finished the pump replacement Yet but have a much better Understanding. Does anyone know where I can find Parts for this old machine here in the US?
Are you sure that the compressor is the problem? Try disconnecting the compressor and charge the system with shop air then try the brakes. It also could be the compressor governor clogged with carbon. do a little trouble shooting before spending a lot of money and time. Clark parts at minnpar.com. You can also get parts manual on line there.
Also if this is a single cylinder Cummins compressor the valves in the head can get carboned and gummed up. I'm assuming you can still buy the kit to replace all the wear parts in the head. Not a hard job and can be done without removing head or even loosing any coolant. This could be a sign of a worn compressor but if it's a low use machine can get compressor working good enough to get a few years out of it for next to nothing in dollars or time.
splined end Yes, it does have a spline drive on the opposite end. Thanks For the info I'm going to replace it tomorrow. A couple of Bolts was seized so I have them soaking in PB blaster.
I must admit. I should have done a better job trouble Shooting. I did not think to disconnect Compressor and charge the system With shop air. I will do just that on tomorrow. All the great advice is greatly appreciated.
Some installed what appears to be a new Or rebuilt head yet there is Still no air pressure. We just purchased This machine so we know little about its Condition. It so caked with oil leaks it took Me a week of pressure washing To get it clean.
Im sorry for intruding on your conversation, I have a michigan clark 175 b with the detroit in it.my system charges but as soon as I apply throttle it starts blowing air out of somewhere also on each tank there is a small t-handle for settings, can some one direct me how to find the proper settings, and is it my governor failing? and Tpichon you are absolutely correct BIG OL MONSTER
T-Handle I'm not sure about an adjustment. I have a T-handles on each Tank but the are for purging excess water from them.
I installed the new pump and The system charged right away. Suddenly a valve right next To the brake master cylinder Started leaking. Air line from This valve connects directly To master cylinder. Anyone Know the name of this valve And where I can get it?
Wild guess would be some kind of relay valve. Any chance of posting a picture? Good chance a shop that sells truck parts would have one.
As I have said to Tpichon, can you post a picture of what you are describing? Have worked on machines with air brakes for 44 years and never saw one with t-handles on tanks for settings. They would more likely just be drain valves to drain off water in tanks. Do you have a working air pressure gauge? If so what pressure does it show. If not get one before you go any further. Governor regulates the maximum pressure in the system if it and the unloaders in the compressor are working properly. If the air pressure is getting too high you may be risking a ruptured air tank that could be fatal!
picture I'll do my best to figure out How to upload a picture of This valve. Trying to familiarize Myself with this site.
i will check pressure and shoot pic tomorrow o I need some one else to help me as I honestly haven't figured out where the loud expulsion of air is coming from and it only happens when i am running up the machine ty all very much
Sounds like the governor is not cutting the compressor off and the relief, usually on one of the tanks, is popping off, they are noisy when the vent.
ERQ Valve The valve is called Emergency Quick Release Valve. And as you suggested. I found it at a truck parts store. Thank for the great advice!
When I removed the main air line from The ERQ valve alot of water came out. But there is no air dryer in the system. Is this normal?
Well depends on your definition of normal! With any system that does not have an air dryer it is very important to drain water from all air tanks every day. Even with an air dryer it's a good idea to open drains daily to check for moisture. Where you live freezing may not be a major problem but moisture in the system can do all kinds of damage. Some people don't understand where the water comes from. A simple explanation is air is just like a sponge if the humidity is high and you compress the air it's the same thing as squeezing a wet sponge, out comes the water! A good modern air dryer is a good addition to any air brake system. The cleaner and dryer the system is the longer things will last. Here's a link to a good source of pictures of air valves: http://www.bendix.com/media/documents/BW1114QuickReferenceCatalog.pdf
As a side note, worn compressors will put some oil in the air tanks, and some valve seals and chamber diaphragms, especially older stuff, will turn to goo usually if subjected to motor oil. So it's best to, as kshansen sez, drain all air tanks religously and watch for oil contamination when doing so.
I just took a look at the Bendix catalog I posted a link to, I did not know there were so many air dryers and options available! Guess with the "new" antilock brake systems a clean air system is very important. Would hate to think of the problems some of that goo lantraxco mentioned would cause in those systems :shf
Hi forum readers, I am currently rebuilding the entire braking system on a 175B with a Detroit (1975). This was a major job as the air clusters/ master cylinders where seized due from water entering the system. The brake lines were broken for several years and the air system had a substantial amount of oil in the air lines. I too rebuilt the Midland compressor, cleaned all the air lines, replaced the foot valves and emergency relay valve. This repaired the air system and have currently rebuilt the front calipers and fitted new master cylinders and have the front brakes now operational. I am currently repairing the same on the rear brakes. I am more than happy to supply any info.
I am working on a Genie S-40 lift 1999 Model yeat. It runs great but fuel is spraying From what appears to me to be coming From between the cylinder head gasket. Any info will be much appreciated.
Do you know what it has for an engine? Wild guess is it's a small four cylinder Cummins?
Engine. You got it, it is a small four cylinder Cummins. As soon as I start it. Fuel start squirting out from between the cylinder head right buy the number four cylinder.
Can anyone help direct me as to how to replace the Pinion bearings on my Terex TH1056c. I know the axle assembly will have to be removed and torn down. But how involved is this process. I am a automotive technician and have rebuilt many auto and truck axles. But his axle has the brake system incorporated into it. And secondly. If I have to, where can I find a good used front axle assembly. ANY and ALL advice will be greatly appreciated!.
I NEED HELP! Our Genie S-60 only steers in one direction. It wheels are stuck In on direction. If I press the switch to the left, I hear no change in idle load. If I press steer button right I can hear and feel the load (wheels are stuck in the right direction. Can anyone please point me in the correct troubleshooting direction??? Thanks!!
I am need of some advice REAL BAD. I'm still working on getting this Clark 175b wheel loader. I am replacing the control valve inside the cab. It has six hoses that was attached to it. I removed it a couple months ago. And the marks I used to mark the hose locations have faded with due to weather. I had no clue which hose goes where on the valve. Can someone give tell me how to figure this out? Thanks!!
The rear axle pinion seal started leaking on our Clark 175b. I have new seal and will be attempting to change it tomorrow. Any special process I need to follow. I marked the nut and the pinion shaft so I can reinstall it in the exact position it came off. I also purchased a new nut. And advice? Thanks.
If anyone can help, they are going to need the info off of the axle housing. Make, model, whatnot.
Didn't I send you how to get a diagram to see how to route the hoses a couple of months ago? Go to minnpar.com, then go to parts manuals, then scroll down to Michigan, then go to wheel loaders, then scroll down to 175B parts manual #3243, go down to page V7. This manual has the hose layout using dotted lines, a little hard to follow. The other 175B parts books have the hoses drawn out, but they are blurred together, so you can't follow them.