Hello I am trying to troubleshoot a Clark fork truck #060-86-768 for a no start condition. This truck has a 6000 lb capacity. I have the engine now turning over, but it will not start. I have found I have spark at the points when engine is turned over. Put my spark plug tester on a spark plug lead and also had spark. Propane tank on truck with valve open. Does the solenoid regulate the passage of propane? I do not smell any odor of propane while trying to start engine. Even pumping the accelerator, no smell of propane. Should I have a odor of propane? I want to work safely with the volatility of propane. Looking for help in the diagnosis of the no start condition. Thanks
Make sure you have spark at the coil wire leading to the distributor, pull off the center distributor cap lead and hold about a 1/4 inch from the block and crank it over. You should have a good blue spark. One question, where is the coil? I see the bracket and coil wire but no coil. As far as the propane is concerned, the solenoid allows liquid propane (as long as there is propane in the tank) to flow to the regulator, thats the device in the water jacket. I don't know what style mixer (carburetor) you have so I can't go any further than that.
BillG Thanks for your reply. I believe the original coil was removed and replaced with a different and larger one. I will include a picture a picture of it. Tomorrow I will take the coil lead out of the dist. and check spark as you said. Are you saying the item next to the electric solenoid that I posted is the regulator? I will also send a pic. of the carb. tomorrow. thanks
Coil in pic appears to have a crack under the boot at the dust/leak appearance break line on lower side and leakage out around the back. If it is cracked and leaking it is bad. Go to a NAPA store. Get you an Echlin brand 12 volt coil with BUILT IN RESISTOR.... Remove your present coil and the jury rigged resistor... Slip your new coil up into the proper bracket,connect it up, and you will have spark. In case you are getting spark from coil wire to block as suggested, GOOD. Remove the air cleaner hose at the carb, and as someone cranks it over, give it a whiff of starting fluid. If it fires up momentarily you have a gas problem, not spark. Luck....
Yes, the round device in the water jacket is the vaporizer/regulator. It vaporizes the liquid propane and regulates the pressure down to approx. 7 psi which the pressurized carb/mixer controls based on engine demand.
TD24 Thanks for your reply. I will check the coil tomorrow. This is a propane fueled engine. Can I still spray a whiff of starter fluid into the air cleaner canister after removing the element?
Thanks, BillG I know I am a newbie here, but I am learning a lot about this fork truck engine operation, which I need to get operable, soon.
I never suggest using starting fluid of any kind. I've worked on forklifts and industrial equipment for forty years and have seen many Continentals, Hercules, Waukeshas and others with plenty of life left that were damaged or ruined by folks that didn't understand it's proper usage. It has it's place but these aren't it, basic troubleshooting and problem solving is a lot cheaper in the long run. Just my opinion.
BillG I never have been a big fan of Starter fluid. I would prefer to get to the cause of the problem. If an engine runs on gas or propane, prefer to find out why either one is not being delivered. I will check the coil for spark tomorrow and its appearance on the casing. Will report my findings. Thanks
BillG I never have been a big fan of Starter fluid. I would prefer to get to the cause of the problem. If an engine runs on gas or propane, prefer to find out why either one is not being delivered. I will check the coil for spark tomorrow and its appearance on the casing. Will report my findings. Thanks
Sorry for the duplicate post.
You could remove the a/c filter and shoot thru there, but be simpler and easier to loosen the hose clamp at the carb and put it in there. Being propane makes no difference. Your propane system is J & S, a Clark standby for years. Carb should be cast iron, bit bulgy face on front with many screws. Caused very little trouble. Easily kitted. We are not talking about using a whole can of ether and blowing the head off. Just a gentle whiff like the perfume lady in the department store dispenses when you walk by. Gets your attention but not in trouble when you meet the wife later. All volatile gases should be dispensed sparingly.
TD24 What is a propane system by J&S? Will look at carb. tomorrow and take a pic. Fork truck is at another location. thanks
Okay, I have found that there is a good heavy spark when coil wire is held 1/4" away from engine. Still no firing of engine, when turned over. Removed rubber hose from air cleaner canister and sprayed starting fluid into tube. Still no firing when turned over. Including some pictures of the carb area. Sorry for the lack of clarity in the pictures. Put my hand over rubber hose to air cleaner, then cranked the engine over. Had good suction of air at that hose end. What else can I troubleshoot for this no-start engine? Thanks
Can someone tell me what battery or battery's are original to this fork truck. I am having trouble finding what is original and still has the amp hours required and fitting the battery carrier. Top photo shows what batteries are there now. YUSA Reliart 12volt 24 a.h. thanks.
New Question about the Clark fork truck. Started fork truck one day and used it for 1/2 hour. NO ISSUES. Went to start it a week later and no start. It will turn over well, but no start. It is getting propane gas. Electric solenoid is being energized. No continuity on the vacuum switch that is mounted to the engine intake. I have electric to the vacuum switch at the carb. and it clicks. I have been searching for a new vacuum switch. Eaton model 140-10 . Any sources where to buy one? Anybody have a new one to sell? The vacuum switch is shown in Post #14, second picture. Just above the flashlight. thanks
Can't say I've every heard a forklift called a "fork truck". Just struck me as odd!
Us Northern folk talk different, didn't you know!!!!!
Sending a picture of the failed vacuum switch. Does anyone know of a source for this part other than dealer, which is far from me? Eaton Model 140-10. Napa does not carry them. thanks
Do a google search for "microvac vacuum switch", they're made slightly different than the original unit you have but should work just fine. http://www.propanecarbs.com/beam/beam_1501_microvac.html
Good luck.
I've heard them called a "hi-low" before, pallet lifter, pallet mover, we even had one guy that kept calling them pallet jacks, even after everyone told him a forklift and pallet jack aren't the same!
Mr. OSHA refers to them as Powered Industrial Trucks. For years they were referred to as Towmotors, regardless of actual manufacture brand. Got a lot of service calls over the years to come crank the Yellow Towmotor, (Towmotor/Cat now), Green Towmotor (Clark) leaking hyd oil, White Towmotor (Late Baker's) Orange Towmotor (Old AC's). With well known customers it could be "Joe"s" Towmotor, " Bob's" Towmotor, etc. One transplant with Arvin Ind. from Oneida, TN referred to any one of them them as a "Mule". The "Mule " in receiving, shipping, warehouse, etc...
Still having starting issues with this Clark towmotor. Review, I have spark at plugs. I have propane being delivered to the carb./mixer. I removed the carb. today to inspect and clean. Really only found surface dirt on outside of body. Removed throttle plate and shaft, used carb cleaner to clean and flush inside of carb. Removed idle screw to put cleaner into all orifices of carb. Small plunger and solenoid on carb body seemed to work okay. Reinstalled carb to engine. Reinstalled throttle linkage. Turned key to start and engine started. Engine was running too fast, I shut it down to readjust the throttle linkage. Now again, I have a no start engine. Engine will turn over just fine, but it will not start. In removing and cleaning the carb., I saw wording on the carb.(see pic) that mentioned the psi to be 2 to 12 lbs. Is there some form of regulator inside the carb. body? I can hear propane being delivered to the carb. body with ignition turned on. I have good suction at carb. intake when engine is turned over. Any ideas why this engine fails to start? Thanks
Does anyone have knowledge of where I can purchase a rebuild kit, if available. If not available, where to purchase a rebuilt carb as shown in previous pictures thanks.
I found a fantastic carburetor everything place in New York. These guys have been in the carb business since 1900 in the same spot. Treadwell Carburetor company. Treadwell New York. 607-829-8321 Don't know if they do propane carbs or not but they are great on gas ones.
Final chapter. Had to purchase a new regulator and a new mixer/carb. It fixed all the gremlins of the no start condition. Starts and runs great. Thanks to all for the help from this forum. Regards
Thanks Bill I have been needing that info Mitch
Folks, I have abandon the old J&S carb for a new mixer and regulator. Engine now starts right up with ease. Idles perfect as well as full throttle, and that's right out of the shipping box. Regards
Good news indeed. One thing I have learned about propane engines over my years of tinkering with them, they are very picky about mixture and control, way way way more picky than a gasoline engine with a carb.
Willie59 I would have to agree with you about this forklift engine being finicky with its propane diet. I had to spend a lot of time troubleshooting because of that reason and my lack of experience with this type of fuel delivery. Anyway, because of this forum and the great folks here, I was able to resurrect this machine to life. Additional great folks are Jerry and Bill from Nash Fuel. www.nashfuel.com . Wonderful people to work with. Give them your consideration, when you have a propane concern. Here are some pics. of what has made me a happy camper.
I need a fork lift for small warehouse. Can anyone help me to choose? What is more rational option for my acility - electric or propane supplied fork lift? Thank you in advance.