If I'm approved for a new MX track I need to remove the 2nd approach to the property. When the road was last paved they extended it 2 or 3 feet onto the approach. I need to cut it inline with the edge of the road. Is it best to hire the cutting out or rent an appropriate saw to cut it? I'm sure once it's cut I can remove it with the backhoe or track loader. I'd guess I'd need a walk behind saw to get get a deep enough cut? Also if I rent are the saws hard to operate to get a straight line?
How long is it. Diamond blades are the answer but expensive. A walk behind is great for long cuts if you don't have a good back.
this is my daily driver with a diamond blade. Made for a young back
Couldn't you theoretically cut a line in asphalt with a repeated stripe of gasoline? Or maybe a small trough with gas poured into it to soften it up, then just scoop it out?
you're in luck. He's wearing a shirt that covers his *** Crack. Get a mask if you have breathing problems Asphalt is not as bad as concrete but it can't be good for you
that blade is just about done. It will be the first blade change this summer. Expensive but would have taken a full fiber blade to cut that
I have run the walk behind ones, they are easy and the dust isn’t bad because of the water tank. We use to cut with a jack hammer back in the day. Those saws are okay but they are a lot of work, your back and mine, wouldn’t be up for it now. I find it strange that the county is making you take out, what would surely be a grandfathered approach. I might consider talking to a real estate attorney about that.
Dave; I have had a Stihl TS420 cut-off saw for quite a few years. If you do the cut yourself, snap a chalk line and then score the line with a dry diamond blade. Then if water is available you can make the cut with a wet blade and your scored line will not wash away like the chalk line would. If your back is a problem, shut the saw off and take frequent breaks. Another thing I learned, is to not use the compression release button if the motor has one. Stihls do. It will be harder to pull but will usually start on the 2nd or 3rdpull of the cord. On a long cut like you are looking at I would encourage you to rent a walk behind one. Better yet hire it to be cut.
Thanks for the replies! There is no grandfather clause unless the property was subdivided. I think it's stupid too. If I rented a saw I'd get somebody else to run it. I could probably run a walk behind though. It's off a 2 lane highway so I think it will be fairly thick. I'll get an estimate to cut it first. Might save me a lot of hassle.
140 mills is the standard here Some older roads can have 18 inches
Oil will destroy asphalt and I am sure you can find some used oil, depends on how quickly and how clean you want the cut to be
Not sure what kind of oil you are talking about but I had an old truck leak oil on a driveway for years and it only stained it. Even fuel would take a long time to degrade 3 or 5 inches if asphalt
I spilled engine oil on my asphalt drive and did not clean it up, couple of days later I could see the rocks in the asphalt.
There's got to be a manufacturer that makes a skid steer attachment to cut concrete or asphalt. Tried calling up rental shops to see if something like that is available?
I've seen cutting wheels for excavators. The problem with a skid steer attachment is I don't have a universal quick attach on mine. They came out about a year after I bought mine.
We have a cutting wheel for the grader. Clamps on the mb. Pain to keep straight. Your grader will cut it if you can get sideways on it. Just put the corner of the cutting edge a bit lower and use it like a big knife. Sideshift back and forth. Move over repeat. Just have to watch. If it's only 3 feet it might break beyond your cut line on the shoulder. I'd come cut it for you if it wasn't 4500 km away
The grader will cut it but you’re better off scoring it with a saw first. You have to be careful that you don’t mess up the road, or there will be other problems. Around here, the town’s claim a 15’ right of way off pavement edge or 55’ from centerline, if it’s a double yellow. I would see if the town’s claim would do it, or the county as they are the one making you do it.
I'm assuming that you are cutting the end of it and not the shoulder. They might have just cleaned out the spreader there In thst case it might be thin and not well rolled.. Here you get compaction off the back of the spreader, then the break down roller. The rubber tire roller, and then the back roller. Not to mention years of traffic
that's a good plan, Dave. Get an estimate on a walk behind rental too. Big thing is you have a backhoe to unload it. Put a plastic barrel in your truck if you want dust control, and fill it. then a small battery pump or just get it siphoning and it will do OK. Use the truck to provide you safety buffer on the shoulder. I have some cutting to do as well, a 30" wide by 4' notch to tap the water main by my driveway. Luckily it is a very quiet street.
I'd call a local cutter and get a quote. That small of a cut it should be in inside their minimum charge. Pretty much hire out all our saw cutting unless it's a curb or something small. Run the same combo - Stihl for chainsaws and Husky's for rescue saws.
The little stihl is actually my own. It was laying around not being used. I told them if they wanted to put a chain on it I would throw it in the truck. The chop saw is fairly new. My old one ruined a cylinder. The leaf blower was replaced last year. I let another crew take it and the ran it over.
Dave, send us the plane ticket and I'll come over and cut it for you. I've got a fairly new diamond disk
I have 2 brand new 18” I think with 1” bores carbide saw blades that nobody seems to want. They have been laying behind my tool box in 3 different shops. No one around here has a saw big enough.
Well you can go Cheapo and use an old Skill worm drive Skillsaw with diamond blade. Wear a mask, and have someone stand near you with a leaf blower. Stihl hot saw with water is better though. Typically you have to buy a 14" diamond blade, and you don't need that big. Do the walk behind saw if you need it perfect. I have the largest Stihl hot saw with wheel kit and that works pretty good.
What does your wheel kit look like. They bought one here 700 bucks. Can't keep the saw straight. Been sitting in a building at the shop for 10 years
Mine is the set of wheels that bolts on the bottom and allows you to push the saw forward or move it backwards. It's not the kit that tries to make it a walk behind saw.
I will need a bunch of pilons and maybe some kind of flashing traffic signs because the road doesn't have shoulders more than 2 1/2 feet wide and that's being generous. I would imagine a contractor has all the necessary traffic safety signs and warning devices.