Has anybody had any dealings with removing the sleeves in a 3d95s engine, i pecked around a little and they look hard like cast, new kit comes with new sleeves, videos ive seen show using a small screwdriver to seperate it from the block then cut it with a chisel, thanks for any input
Yeah, like that. I think somebody actually makes a sleeve splitting tool. I've seen them bored out, and I can't swear to it but I think one guy used a torch to heat cool and shrink, and another liquid nitrogen? YMMV
In the Olden Days as a mekanik We would connect a arc welder and stick weld a bead top to bottom inside dry sleeves Once cooled would pull right out Had a salamander heater warming the block then Dry ice(more common than N2 here) the sleeves shut down heat install sleeves post haste!!
i was thinking about dry ice, i tried the little screw driver deal, it seems like the sleeve wants to live there, been there since 1989 so i guess ill have be innovative
Who makes a 3D95 engine?
i would use the heat and shrink method as opposed to chiseling. you do not want to gouge or damage the block. there has to be a smooth and clean block bore for the dry liners to contact for proper heat transfer. damage to the block may cause hot spots to develop in the liner which may lead to localized distortion or soft spots in an otherwise hard liner. the old saying applies---do it right, do it once. most dry liners i have encountered have a small interference fit, in the neighborhood of .0005 (1/2 a thousandth) of an inch
Another vote for the welding machine to get the old ones out and dry ice (or LN2 if available) to install the replacements.
Komatsu
I think a couple time used a heating tip on a acetylene torch to hear a strip done one or two sides then let cool. Also works to get steel bushings out of a loader arm.
I don’t know of any 95 series Komatsu engine that has liners from the factory.
It sure don't look like mine has liners, I haven't killed anything yet but it don't look like liners in mine
Wonder if the kit just assumes that the bores are bad and will need to be sleeved? Looking on line and seems like some kits have sleeves and some don't.
I don't recall Komatsu making any repair sleeve kits available for any of their parent block engines.
Well the "kits" I was seeing online did not appear to be genuine Komatsu so might be just an aftermarket solution.
On some Hino,s and Isuzu,s we weld them like the old Perkins to get them out. Dry ice going in. Something like a teflon block might be good. Most dropped right in. One got 80% of the way in and stopped. The temperature causes them to expand quickly. We had an oak block handy and went on it with a hammer. That worked but looking at the wood trash on the block we were lucky. Liner height was correct. Make sure yours has replaceable sleeves. I did a Long and the kit came with sleeves. Had no book, I looked long and hard. It was not a sleeved block. Those were to be pressed in after the block was bored. Cylinders had little wear so we honed them and rebuilt the engine in the tractor.
Works for bearing races also. When we built Antelope Valley in ND Id get asked to go up to the temporary field shop with a portable and weld beads on races every once in a while on the 660s back wheel bearing races.
I got the kit, it came with liners, im about sure my block has liners, thing is the new liners dont fit the pistons, itll have be bored to fit new pistons, new pistons fit my block but the problem is ive boogered it up a little trying get liners out and may blow the head gasket if i try use new pistons in old sleeves, prob gonna have take it to somebody cause ill tear something up trying sleeves out
my worry as far as using what i got is ive chipped small place bout 1/8 inch at the top of the block trying see if its got a sleeve, head gasket might blow and there ill be pulling motor again, gonna take it let somebody look at it and see
Dry sleeves almost always are designed to be bored and honed to size after installation. Perkins tried made to size sleeves way back when, but to often they didn't end up round after installing. YMMV
Look in the block from the bottom. Sometimes sleeves extend past the bore in the block. It would be easy to see the extension or confirm there is no sleeve.
Mitsubishi I think
Nope, 3, 4, 6D95 is Kommie, the S is for "supercharger" or in English, turbo'ed I believe.
last engine I did like this was an Isuzu C240 diesel, it had thin chrome dry liners like these..just take a oxy/acyet welding torch(not a cutting torch) and heat the old liner up in one strip top to bottom and peel it out where its red hot.Then the liner will come out with little effort..might be a good idea to flex hone the bare block lightly and check it for burrs afterwards..then refit the new liner after cold soaking it in dry ice(use a cooler full) for a few hours,spray the block bore with WD40 usually have to tap it into the block with a block of wood and a ball peen hammer..work fast as it expands quickly..make sure you have the liner bottomed into the block,usually there is a ridge on the block deck surface the liner will seat into.Different manufactureres use different designs so your results may vary..set the job up right,have everything ready when seating the new liners.
Different way. Thanks for sharing.
i had mine bored 25 over can go to up 50 dry sleeves cat excavator engine said it was way cheaper to bore it out.
Parent bore can usually be bored. If engine is out boring is usually cheaper. Some debate over boring vs sleeves on engines like Cat 3204's. I had my block bored .010" over using IPD 3 ring pistons and no problems in about 1800 hours. Others think boring and sleeved with standard size pistons is better.
I'm getting a little leery of this thread. The OP has never stated what machine this engine is in nor stated any serial number for the machine or the engine. No photos have been posted and the supposed source of the rebuild kit has never been mentioned. I'm getting a little tired of trying to help ghost writers. At this point I'm putting the OP on my do not disturb list.
yep definitly got sleeves, thats not the problem now, tore rest down and crank is killed, gonna have be turned around ten, then after that im lost on how find a over sized bearing, i can find everything on net except a crank
i dont know how do pic, machine is a pc50uu-1 engine is a 3d95s-w-1, now you know, wish i was a ghost, id fart me a imaginary crankshaft, gonna look elsewhere for help.
The help is here Sam ! We just needed those details. Without them we may as well fart in a whirlwind. Have you tried a komatsu dealer ? Maybe they would at least give you the part number for it. Why not grind the crankshaft and get the bearings from Komatsu ?
4 & 6 cylinder versions use same bearings.
ive tried komatsu, no good, crankshaft is no where, im down now to seeing about getting it welded and ground back to specs, i dont have the resourses to find over sized bearing, ive got the parts list book and the shop manual, part number is 6201-31-1100, ive pretty much memorized the part number
New crank is only $4700 UsD from Komatsu.
This is one of several hits on a search.
negatory
im thinking since i already got the rebuild kit with new bearings im just gonna find a shop to build it up and turn it back, worse case is using a differnt motor and building back of it to suit the pump, thanks for the info but thats out of the question.
Ya, I thought most folks would decline spending that much for a crankshaft. But I didn't know what kind of predicament you were in. How many journals were damaged ? I would have had it built back up and reground if it were mine. You made a good choice. IMHO.
only one journal and its not terribly bad, but bad enough to have be done, this is going to be a process for sure but itll be oh happy day when i get it back up running
How bad can it be to not use up to 1mm oversize bearings?
You may get lucky and only need a .020 or.030 grind on it. Did the bearing spin in the connecting rod ?
Find a teenager and send some pics. i have repaired several with bearing problems. It is not always as bad as you thank.
yep thats where it spun, not terribly bad thogh
found place in georgia real good on cranks, carrying block to chattanooga to get sleeve work done, its a ton more economical doing it this way, i cant justify buying one at auction with unseen issues, i know whats been done mine and besides im using all this old stuff help my son clear land thats been timbered and we aint got jars buried all in the yard full of money, that turned me into a fixer early on, thanks for the help.
it have be a teenager, i barely can send a email
Just to give everybody a update on the sleeve removal situation, this engine doesnt have sleeves, model number 3d95s-w-1, maybe this will save somebody some head ache, mines getting sleeves anyway, its at a shop to have the block cut down and installed, my cylinders might have been oblong but i would have taken the chance, crank is at another shop getting turned on one journal, it might be end of summer but ill have it back running, all total ill have about 2 grand in it at the end but couldnt find a engine in my price range, be glad see my old pc50uu-1 running again, thanks for everyones help.