Here is one of our old D-11Rs which recently had some issues with its axle:
that looks beat up. It needs to retire.
"beat up" hardly looks broke in to me
Second that:yup Do belive that you have many hours left on it. And with the cost of a new in the back of your head you can fix it for some money and it still will be a good deal:IMO:exactly:IMO
So after loosening the master link bolts on both tracks and removing the trunnion arm bolts, exactly what speed do you have to get to before selecting reverse, to achieve the pictured result Good to see your not trying to work in a confined space :drinkup
:laugh ointlaugh
Hey, don't laugh! We sat back and watched an apprentice and a so called journeyman lose a kitty off both of her rails when they were changing out tracks. We were having lunch up in the yard and looking down onto the grade below when they did it. None of us could believe they were actually doing what we thought, so since it was a nice clear shot down the grade ahead and they wouldn't answer the radio, we just sat back and laughed. They walked it to the end of the tracks, and as soon as the sprockets both disengaged the old set, she rolled right across the new set. That D9L rolled a good 300 feet down the grade before it dug in enough to stop. The poor apprentice in the cab almost messed his shorts since there was nothing he could do to stop. I mean really, what kind of fool undoes both tracks at the same time, especially without so much as tying it off to another machine. Brian
Your "Workshop" brings back many old memories. Not too bad in nice weather but a real bitch when it's bad. We used to call it "field repair".....C ya........Ray
I wasn't there when they drove it off the tracks. They used a D 8 to pull the tracks farther back. This D 11 has had a new undercarriage and new engine a few years ago. I think it is approaching 18,000 hours on the clock. This machine runs 20 hours per day. The boss told me that the Z-Bar needs to be greased before we put this machine back together. Can someone please explain or show in a pic where the grease fittings are for that?:beatsme
I've never heard it called z bar before, but I assume you mean the hard bar, or equalizer bar. If so, look on the top of the eyes at either end. There should be a plug on the top that comes out. Inside that plug, there should either be a fitting or threads for a fitting, that's where you grease. Bear in mind, it's been a few years and that was on D11Ns, but it should be the same.....or at least close. Brian
the ends of the equalizer bar should take 80/90 weight oil not grease , you put grease it them when the seals wont hold oil.
Nice workshop. Dont be driving machines off tracks. Bad idea. Very easy way to change them out with the aid of a forktruck / Telehandler. Gonna have to pull the frame to change the pivot shaft seal. Yup Oil in the ends and grease in the middle. Should be a remote Nipple on the left side engine compartment. Ross
There was a large bit of tounge in cheek when I made the post, I had spotted the marks where the tracks had been pulled back after she had been blocked up. BUT I'm glad I did as the replys highlighted a point I had not considered. I've only ever once been remotely involved with changing the running gear on a dozer and that was a D8 in a workshop aged 19yrs old many years ago and the tracks were already off. I wonder how many others had not considered brakes or lack off when driving off the end :Banghead :thumbsup Well, not even the end, its when the track comes clear of the drive, which gives quite a way to clatter and ruin a pair of pants 'efore she stops
Hey Rob. Dependant on the job. Changing tracks is easy if you do them one at a time with the blade and draft arms off. How about the Ripper. Pretty good brake. Ross
Ye, know what you mean Ross, trouble with spending so much time on machines that can slew 360, and have an arm & bucket on I tend to overlook some of the problems faced when pulling bits off other machines. I wondered if the blade had been taken last, as the crane is still there. I expect the blade was used to raise the front for blocking? In that scenario, stripping down, does it make much difference whether the blade or tracks come off first ? :drinkup
it looks pitiful to me all up on blocks!
What's the undercarriage worth for her? Even a cheap set?
Yeah it looks as tho the blade was taken after the machine was blocked. We normally strip them without the blade and draft arms attached but we do have 100ton airjacks. Well after 18'000 hrs then It will could do with a full rebuild (Dependant on work conditions) Your looking at around $170'000-CAN for both frame's Break this down to around $100k - $130k for parts and the rest is labour. Give or take it just depends on what crack's will be found and beleve me there will be some. If the tube is cracked then this is gonna take 4 days to repair. I'am unsure what price for rollers, Idlers and tracks alone. I will have a gander tomorrow when I start my set's. Ross
We did the undercarriage on one of our 10R's last year and I was told a good 400 000 went into her after we did chains, rollers, sprockets and yada yada yada.
Currently a D10R (Suncor) in for rebuild now. Quote $166'000 for the frames. The whole rebuild is only running at about $330'000 but that is still rising. Suncor Did supply quite a bit hardware like Tracks and roller's Most Tar sand Customers supply hardware so I will take a walk tomorrow and see what a "Whole Nine-Yard" rebuild is running. Ross
Cat calls for a special kind of grease for that too. I believe its called "desert gold". Regular EP2 just won't cut it. The manual says that nipple should get a couple shots of the desert gold during the 500 hour service as well. Like Ross said the nipple is located on the left hand side of the engine compartment. It should be right there when you take the side panel off.
Not sure about centre getting grease, usually a dry joint there. D11R at one mine i was at would get 750 hours only from the grousers working in monsonite and blue rock, really hard on the machine, so much so we had the blades skinned on the 16 & 24 graders. One thing you should NEVER EVER do when pulling track frames on a high track is weld stupid pieces of steel strap to hold up the bogies, just get 2 pieces of timber and wedge them down between the idler and the track frame and then get a single length 3/8 or 1/2 in chain with a dog and put it around each middle bogie near the track guide in a loop and dog it off tight as you can get it. The timbers stop the end bogies swinging down and the chain catches the 2 centre bogies when they swing down as they swing opposite to each other, and you should see how quick it is to remove that setup when you put it back together as opposed to gas axeing off the other crap and the ensuing evidence of incompetence and/or care factor when using the torch. Heck i even saw one guy send the machine back to work with them all still welded as he said they would all bust off pretty quick, pure black and white apron stuff that.
I did some research on SIS, apparently on the big boy has sealed bearings (oil impregnated) so you just check the wear on the pin, and make sure the bearings and their seals are still good. Might be a good idea to just swap in new bearings while you have it all apart anyways. I was quoting the Desert Gold and the remote nipple of a 6R III series I worked on and figured the big one was the same. Not sure how big you have to go series wise before they switch over to the sealed bearing.
That's true, but it's also the state I figured his was in since his boss told him to make sure it was greased. Of course, of all the Cat's we had, only one still held oil and the boss wasn't going to put the money out to fix that. Brian