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D11N Air Conditioning

Junkyard ยท 2016-06-14 09:39

First time poster here..... We have a D11N, the boss man has finally decided to get the A/C working. My question to the big iron guys is this, am I better off utilizing the existing setup or converting to an aftermarket system? From the looks of things it hasn't functioned in quite some time, my guess is it's still setup for R12. We've owned it about 4 years and have been lucky in that we've never had a job for it in the heat of summer. This year we have work and it's muggy! Any idea how proud of the parts Cat might be? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! S/N 74Z279 if that matters at all. Thanks! Junkyard

Replies17
  1. #1Birken Vogt2016-06-14 10:24

    R12 has dropped in price since lots of people hoarded it and others converted to 134a so it is often a good bet to stick with the original now. That way you can save the time and aggravation of making 134a work in your application.

  2. #2Nige2016-06-14 10:53

    Are you sure it's an R12 system..? There ought to be a plate on the cab door frame with detailing refrigerant type and charge weight. If it is R12 like Birken I'd stick with it. It'll be cheaper in the long run. The first test would be to try to suck a vacuum in the system and see if it holds.

  3. #3Junkyard2016-06-14 11:04

    Not sure of anything lol. It was a passing comment he made as he went to one job and I went to another to fix the roller. I haven't even laid eyes on the A/C specifically other than I've seen lines, R/D and that's about it. When we hauled it in a few years ago I asked about the A/C while we were going through it prior to its first job. He laughed and said naw we won't need that don't waste your time. So I suppose next time I'm around it I will dig a little deeper and report back with my findings. Thanks for the advice! Junkyard

  4. #4catfixer2016-06-14 11:43

    not sure on exact prices for OEM parts, but I believe you can get a roof mount system for around a grand. I don't have much experience with them, but have seen a decent amount on machines out and about. What kind of work are yall doing with that big pusher around there? not too far from my stomping grounds.

  5. #5Junkyard2016-06-14 12:04

    I was leaning towards roof mount myself. We've use them on the old trucks that weren't factory equipped. We do a lot of reclaim work, old coal mine stuff. Filling in all the old abandon cuts and whatnot. Also do some bridge work but the 11 never goes there. My gut feeling is starting from scratch with roof mount would be less headaches but it never hurts to throw ideas out and hopefully learn from somebody else's experience, good or bad. Junkyard

  6. #6Junkyard2016-06-14 17:26

    Just an update... Compressor is locked up, condenser is gone, it's all old weather beaten hoses etc. It would take all new from front to back to get it going. One quote I for an aftermarket system was around $4,500 installed. New everything. I haven't looked anywhere else or started the pricing parts game with Cat. Junkyard

  7. #7caterpillar132016-06-15 00:31

    try Classic car parts, they have complete after market systems for around 1200.00 dollars

  8. #8lantraxco2016-06-15 00:50

    Try these guys in Texas if you decide to go aftermarket, though if the heater works, it might be cheaper and easier to replace the CAT stuff, you're going to have to install the compressor, condenser, and hoses anyway... http://www.visionaire-inc.com/

  9. #9Nige2016-06-15 04:19

    If you go with a roof mount then remember that the "roof" of the ROPS structure and the roof of the cab are both considered to be ROPS?FOPS structures by OSHA/MSHA. I don't know which of the two your operations come under. Any drilling or welding on the roof can be classed as an unauthorised modification which would immediately de-certify the ROPS and potentially land you in deep **** ...... The current D11 model cab/ROPS roofs have 4 large circular threaded bosses welded to them at the factory. This is not a good photo but it's the best I can find. You can see the 4 bosses quite clearly. If you could duplicate something similar to mount the a/c condenser to then I'm sure that it would never even be noticed, or at least they'd assume it was standard. Edit: believe it or not the Parts Manual shows it better. The title of this is "ROPS GP - FOR USE WITH ROPS MOUNTED AIR CONDITIONER CONDENSOR - AN ATTACHMENT". It appears to me that this "look" is what you need to go for.......

  10. #10Junkyard2016-06-15 06:55

    Awesome info Nige, also thanks lantraxco. Hopefully I'll have time to price the Cat stuff vs an aftermarket setup. Stupid hot here this week. The one unit I looked into appears to mount mostly inside, called a headliner unit I believe so maybe that will avoid any major cab or rops mods. Awaiting more specific info on it. Thanks again all who have commented. Junkyard

  11. #11Nige2016-06-15 07:08

    For that type of unit be sure the inside of the cab roof is strong enough and has enough bosses, brackets, or whatever, because remember the same comments regarding what you can and can't do on the outside of the cab roof apply just the same to the inside because of the FOPS certification. Also make sure it's not going to impede the operator's visibility or cause him to bang his head on it every time he gets up from the seat. There isn't a lot of room in those cabs ......

  12. #12Junkyard2016-06-15 07:16

    There are several factory blind nuts in there, appear to be 3/8". I'm hoping that we can somehow use them and tuck everything up nice. I may do a little how-to on it if we choose to go that route. As far as room I know what you mean, I stuck another fan in there to move some air and pondered location quite awhile. I guess I could get dimensions, make a test unit and see if it will tuck up ok or make a nice place to knock yourself in the head! It's always something.... Oh and I figured out that there aren't any blower motors in there either. Strange the way things get canibalized sometimes. Junkyard

  13. #13dozr2016-06-15 17:24

    try ap air produtcs that is where we get all the kits for farm tractors they had akit to do away with old gm compersser on d5h went to san dun hoses made at napa store or good hose shop the only thing i have not been able to find is the break aways to pull nose whit out loseing freon had to get those at cat

  14. #14lantraxco2016-06-15 17:48

    Red Dot sells the disconnects, FYI. Some Fleetpride locations sell Red Dot.

  15. #15Junkyard2016-06-15 19:32

    I haven't had a chance to chase down more options yet. Pier drilling rig sheared all the ring gear bolts then the D5 sheared the master link bolts. Hammer and punch time I guess! Haha

  16. #16acjerry2016-09-13 13:36

    Simplest option will be to refit with a Red Dot package - use an R-9750 or R-9755 ceiling mount unit inside the cab, a Red Dot R-9720 condenser outside the cab (hang it off the back or mount it on top) and either replace the original compressor with a similar one or do a new mount and drive assembly. The rest is plumbing and wiring.

  17. #17Junkyard2016-09-13 20:52

    That's more or less what ended up getting done. A guy the owner knows said oh yeah I've done that many times blah blah. Got it started then "got busy" so I finished it. Had to redo a lot of his shoddy work. I'm not sure what the output is BTU wise but it'll freeze your butt out of there, seems more than big enough. It would have been a nightmare to ressurect the old system. Thanks for the input Junkyard