Will go foward n backward Can I use diesel to try to free them up?? Hydrolic piston are working good on both sides any suggestion will help
You're going to need a serial# for the guru's on this forum to help, a better explanation of the problem you are trying to overcome would be good too. Happy Thanksgiving!
Kerosene would be better , keep the level below the input / output shafts . Give it a run while operating the steering levers . You won't lose anything by trying but stand to gain a bit . How long has the dozer been sitting ?
right side had about 2 1/2 gallon of water left side was dry was sitting for about 4 months serial#28y0465
Curious why it's so black in there? Have you figured out where the water is getting in?
Couple of gallons of water is more than what I thought would be moisture , if the water level was up to the input output shafts checking the finale drive and bevel gear oil for water needs to be done . Kero is still worth ago . If the clutches have to come out and be cleaned kero would be better than diesel as diesel more likely to lubricate than kero is and you don't want that .
I had a 23y that had been up graded to wet clutches by cat I think 28y should have wet but not sure
I had a 23y that had been up graded to wet clutches by cat I think 28y should have wet but not sure
Most of the hard part of access is done. Why not just pull them out and get it done right?
I've never heard of wet clutches/brakes being standard equipment on any B machine serial number prefix but they were available as a factory option or could be converted later on. I will say that I have no complaints with dry clutches on my 931B after having them rebuilt. Steers with only needing light to moderate pressure on the pedals. What I'd be concerned about with putting kerosene or some other type of solvent in the clutch compartment is the brake bands will get soaked and never work properly. Also not sure if it might contribute to clutch disk wear.
Good news got clutches to release Water n diesel made the difference Filled up compartment a ran for 15 min then drained and washed w water only after the released then adjusted brake a little tie till they got hot everything dry now Will post video thx alll
Got them release Thx Water n diesel made the difference I jacked up n ran it for 15 mins they did release Then open drain a run just water for another 15 min without the plug Then adjusted brake tie n ran it till they got hot Everything dry now Will cover n adjust brake tomorrow Thx
I have converted two winch's to wet brakes used for roller crushing scrub . Hyster D7D and Komatsu DWT125 , both done for cooling and to stop excessive wear . These winch's feed out wire as fast as my 6 ton roller can roll steep slopes with the winch in neutral . Both work well and its hard not to stop them too fast causing broken rope or D shackles . I took advice on the D7D and used a softer fiber to allow for better grip ,it was not needed .
Not really apples to apples. Wet clutches/brakes are generally better but on a smaller crawler dry work fine. Just need to keep them dry. Some prefer dry.
Turns good now but after 1 hr of work wont get in gear have to play a little bit to get it in gear. I let it cool down n got it in gear. Trans oil feel hot on the steering valves A little noice on the back by filter Transmission #7G7600 I’m going to rebuild trans valve body It is like $300 on parts for valve body if all the spool are in good shape. Can I get it out from top of trans ?? Any body have a repair manual on these valve body? will change oil, filter n clean suction tube of transmission but want to check valve body also will torque converter get trans hot?? looks like a complete rebuild on This one thx in advance
Have you checked the filter (3f/3r) or screen (3f/1r) for debris? Do you know what oil is in the trans.? Seems like maybe the oil could be causing the problem if it works good for an hour.
I’m doing full service on trans tomorrow Filter n will check for debris on drain plug Oil looked milky also will flush radiator in case it have some build up in the bottom where the Tran cooler is at Will put pressure gauge on filter case to check for pressure drop while running Long day tomorrow will keep posting
Running good Change trans oil, cleaned trans screen n magnet a littler be of small particle but nothing mayor, change trans filter on top of transmission Working like a champ CAT Will put a separate radiator for trans for safety but did not got trans hot in 4 hrs of hard lock dozing This is what I have done Put it on blocks Diesel on clutch to make it loose Washed w water Ran it a tide brake to Meade dry Change trans oil n filter did clean drain screen ready for work for now no smoke at all on engine