I have a 1994 D3C III that the bolts holding the pin to the c frame at the trunnion broke. I picked up a new trunnion bearing, pin, bolts, washers and spacers at my local Cat dealer and figured out the side that the bolts broke on don’t have a spacer and the whole frame is threaded. On the other side, the C frame has spacers the bolts go through and then a washer. Is this normal? See pics
Yes.
So, is it a different size/length bolt that goes in the fully threaded side without a spacer? The ones Cat gave me seem to be too long. They didn’t ask which side when I ordered them.
What’s the serial number of your machine? We need to take a look at the parts book to figure this out.
9CL00218 When the cat dealer looked up the pin the diagram showed a pin with one bolt holding it in the C Frame with one bushing and washer. I mentioned that I was pretty sure it had two bolts that held the pins and when we got it in it did have two.
It has this number on the C frame bracket on the right side of the machine that’s fully threaded.
That's a "built for Japan only" model. There is no Parts Manual for 9CLxxxxx in the online system. I know 'cos I just looked.......... Chasing it down via the 8J3443 Bracket there appear to be two possible types of fixing: - 1. A single bolt/washer and a "half-moon" style lock plate as shown below. According to that design the pin should have a groove in it for the lock plate to fit. 2. A pin with a flag on the end of it. The thick spacer should fit in the hole in the flag and stand just proud of it. When everything is tightened the flag should be able to rotate a few degrees in either direction. This is what you appear to have from the photos above. Can you take a photo of the LH & RH brackets from the side with the pins removed.?
I only have the pin out on one side at the moment. I was checking to make sure I had the right parts before pulling everything apart. I thought the bushing was just stuck in the bracket until I realized it was threaded starting at the beginning of the hole. The bushings I have and on the one bolt pulled from the other side don’t have any threads.
What Part Number is that Pin Assembly.? It's difficult to read the label. Do you have a list of the parts the dealer sold to you.? Does your C-frame have a metal tag circled in red welded to it.? It's supposed to be on the RH side but could be either. If you can find it are there any numbers stamped on it.?
8E 4026 is the pin # on the invoice. There should be a pic of the invoice with the pin and spacer number if it’s showing up. I’ll check the machine for another plate on the frame
I think this is it. For each side of the machine. Pin #1 - 8E-4026 Qty 1. Hardware #2 - 5P-2566 Bolt, 5P-1076 Washer, 8E-4072 Spacer, Qty 2 of each. What Part Number of trunnion bearing did they sell you.? The illustration below only uses 1 bolt but the same principle holds good for a pin flag with two bolt holes in it. Spacer #8 fits in the hole in the pin flag and stands just proud of it. Washer 29 is installed on bolt 30 and tightened into the threaded holes in the 8J3443 Bracket. This system allows the pin to float in & out plus rotate by just a small amount even though the bolts are tight.
Thanks for the help! I’ll let you know how I come out tonight. Just hoping the spacer that has threads in it will come out. Might just be from wear and not something somebody made to go in there.
Partially pulled the whole c frame this afternoon but haven’t got the bushing out of the side that one bolt broke in. So far one bushing has been threaded with the correct size bolt and it won’t budge after heating it up a little. I’m afraid its like i thought and somebody JB welded a sleeve in the hole and threaded it. Might be why the top bolt broke too. They didn’t know what they were looking at and just “fixed it” like they thought it should be. Wish me luck getting that out!
I just knew Nige would stop by to save the day. He is under appreciated.
I don’t know how well you can see this pic but all of the bushings are threaded. Do you think somebody did this or it came this way?
I don't think that's a bushing, more likely it is the threads in the bracket. The bracket casting would have had a rough surface and appears to have been spot-faced by machining to present a flat surface for the Spacer to sit hard up against. I think if you clean the dirt & grease out right round the circle indicated by the arrow you should not be able to find any indication of a "join" in that root.
I gotcha. I had to pull the new parts back out to see what you were talking about. The bushing just sits flat against the face of that and doesn’t actually go inside there. I’m sure this won’t be my last question but thanks again! Everybody on here sure is helpful
Why do they make flag style pins where they can rotate a little, and some other pins that are held rigid, and still other pins are free floating?
Ok guys, I got everything drilled out and almost ready to go on the C Frame. The bearing in the trunnion (eye bolt looking part) that hooks the cframe to the dozer is toast. After I pulled the nut off the back, I can’t get it to budge. Tried a small very worn out hand operated porta power and it didn’t move either. What’s the best way to remove it where I can press the new bearing in?
Post a photo of what you're trying to remove.
Do you have an arc welder, or can you get hold of one.? If you can then run some beads of weld in a circular fashion around the inside surface of the bearing and then let it cool. It should knock out fairly easily. The new one ought to go in easily if you polish the bore up a bit and cool the bearing in dry ice. I doubt if you're going to have access to a bearing freezer or liquid nitrogen.
Yeah I have an old Miller arc welder. Sounds a lot easier than pulling that off. I sure thought it had to be pressed in. Thanks
You could heat the bore the bearing goes in too. It will make installing the new bearing easier.
Wouldn’t heating the bore make it harder to install since it would expand?
No. On an eye like the one you're trying to install the bearing into, heating it evenly with something like a rosebud tip will expand the whole of the eye and as a result both the inside and outside diameters will get bigger.
So, you wouldn’t try to pull it the whole thing out? I have the nut off. I do have a torch to heat it with. How do they pull the whole eye in a shop?
Put the nut back on without the washer until it's a couple of threads away from the frame then and smack the end of the shaft in the direction of the arrow with a FBH.
Been there done that. Just hooked the winch of my truck to it also and it didn’t budge. Since the hand held porta power didn’t work I’m trying a bottle jack with a block behind it next. It’s just in a bad place to heat it with a welder. My skills in tight places aren’t too good
If you have a welding tip or even a cutting torch tip can you heat the bushing almost red hot concentrating the flame on the inside of the bushing? Same idea as welding, you need to heat the bushing up fast so it can expand and shrink before the heat equalizes with the material around the bushing.
Update for everybody. I finally just left it in, heated the bearing in one spot and it split. I put the new bearing in the freezer overnight and pressed it in with a huge Snap-On ball joint press with a small metal plate in front and back. Went back in smooth as silk. I did need to remove the covers for the press to fit in in there. Thanks for all the help again!