I just started my d4 to pressure wash it and I have the hood off to clean the pony's carb and while moving it I noticed an oil leak that I originally thought was coming from the valve cover is actually coming from around the headbolt that holds down the right (from the seat) rad support bar im kinda lost on what could cause it.
Not uncommon for them to leak at the corners. Not a lot you can do besides retorquing the head bolts. Cure is the next time you have the cylinder head off coat both sides of the head gasket with Permatex "300" head gasket cement.
An oil leak doesn't bother me but while the motor is running you can hear a pst pst pst sound coming from around the head bolt too and see a little smoke as well but it runs perfect other than that. My grandfather swapped the cylinder head and reused the head gasket so thinking about it thats probably the culprit
You didn't tell us about that part. You have a head gasket leak that is allowing compression/combustion gases to escape.
And despite what your grandfather may have thought it's not acceptable to reuse a head gasket. It will need replacing and use OM's fix regarding the Permatex gasket cement when re-installing the cylinder head.
My grandfather was an excellent mechanic when he was working on someone else's equipment but a real farmer bob with his own (he bought all new grommets and things but not a head gasket). I remember him using gasket shelac that came in a brown bottle with an Indians head on it.
Tell grampa spray paint works good as a gasket sealer at times.
its really importiant to thouroughly clean up the block & head mating surfaces and check them for flatness . I sand them with fine grit wet sandpaper until they look like chrome. You need to remove the block studs to do a good job. And then blow out the holes and run a tap through them. clean the threads and nuts on the studs. be sure to bottom out the studs in the block and use light oil on the threads when torqueing to avoid a false reading. and you need to properly torque the head bolts in the proper sequence.
I think when I graduate in may and go back to working full time and before I head off to college ill buy all the gaskets and a piston to replace the scared up one and put on a new head gasket.
Oh, so now there's a piston problem as well..? I wonder what else is wrong with the engine that you haven't told us about yet ........
Don't feel bad about it. We had a local guy who was considered to be a darned good mechanic who also farmed. He passed a few years ago. I was at his estate auction. I never saw so much cobbled together junk in my life. The only things that were decent were a couple of collector tractors to include a very nice TD6 dozer. Everything else was just a couple steps ahead of the junk man. Rick
You don't have to tell me Rick, I grew up around farmers as well ........ enough said ....... the deal is they're so good at getting stuff up and running with the proverbial length of baling wire that eventually they start to believe their own BS and other people who see their equipment always up & running start to believe it too. Smoke & mirrors mate, smoke & mirrors ...... The words "farmers" and "good mechanics" do not belong in the same sentence IMHO.
The words "farmers" and "good mechanics" do not belong in the same sentence IMHO. Not always the fact. I farm grew up on a farm. And Im a born mechanic. Ive fixed things after everyone around failed. I was hauling off a scrap car body. When I was in the office a guy who knew me told the owner that's the guy I was telling you about. He can fix your crane. I agreed to look at it. It was a industrial Chrysler flat head six with a magneto. The mag went bad so the big diesel shop took it off and sent it to get rebuilt. And they couldn't get the mag back in time. And every shop around had attempted and failed. I looked at it the front pulley had been cleaned up so much it was looking like chrome. I got a cresent and pulled a plug from the bellhousing. found the timing marks and lined them up with the pointer. Took the mag and turned until just before the impulse on number one. installed it and it started immediately. And lots of farmers are participants in tractor pulling and do their own work. And they are indeed skilled. It takes more skill to keep old junk running than it does to keep changing parts on new stuff until it works. Old guys tend to not want to spend money they don't have. Cleanleness and attention to detail are just as importiant as the new parts that are being installed. Many farmers possess self reliance and know How.
Its not a piston problem per say but me and my grandfather picked the dozer up for $900.cause a bolt got into the engine and busted up the cyl. Head and scared up a piston. Oil would not seep through the piston so my grandfather decided not to spend the money he didn't have and leave the piston alone unless it became a problem. I think the only other issue is it could use a new set of injectors but Im not worrying about the injectors cuse if I can avoid spending 4 grand into the motor and everything else I can save for new pins and bushings.
the injectors are just removable tips. very inexpensive. Im assuming you have a piston with a battered top? Undercarrage parts are high dollar new. The undercarriage from a 9U D6 is the same except the rails will have more link,s
Yeah top of the piston is beat up I looked up the how much a piston would run me it came out at around $70.