Don't guess it going to stop raining here (in NC) and even if it did it will take some time to dry out. With that in mind it is on to the next item on my D4D bucket list; the lift cylinder gland packing/seals. Have not located a number on the cylinders, in fact, don't where to look. It is a '67 model serial #78A7177. Once the cylinders are ID'd and parts ordered it is on to how one anchors the piston (rods?) to loosen the nut so the packings can be replaced. Many moons ago when working on a 70's era Case backhoe this was accomplished by laying the removed piston back on the boom, reinserting the pin, then with a long pipe on a 3/4" breaker, loosening the nut. Don't see a way to do this on a dozer.
Does the machine have a drawbar?
On my 73 d4d I have the c frame, I just fastened the rods back to the c frame... had the blade off so laid them down but you could just as easily block things up and around and do it vertical.
DB2--yup
Don't know what is meant by "c frame".
C frame the blade is mounted to as opposed to the rods mounting to the blade itself.
Okay, I think I understand. Mine attach directly to the blade. RE: your first post, the rods are short enough to reattach standing up, behind the blade and provide a friendly work height to remove/tighten the nut?
If O.M. is out there and willing, I need some help coming up with part numbers for either a seal kit or the individual seals to repair the lift cylinder. Might as well replace everything in there while it is apart. Online, CAT doesn't recognize my serial number (78A7177), too old I guess. Aftermarket (CTP), I don't seem smart enough to navigate their site.....
If you have the original blade set up the lift cylinders are a 4J4848 cylinder assy. When you have the closed eye type cylinder rods it was common to pin them to the draw bar and block them up to a convenient height for wrenching off the retainer nut. That won't work well with your trunnion mount rods so mount them back to the blade as a holding fixture. "C" frame is used with angle blade.
Thanks O.M. The blade is probably not the original, can see by the torch-cuts the previous cylinder mount locations but the cylinders appear to be correct. It is a four-way(?) blade with a manual, screw type tilt adjuster on the right side. Will try the cylinder number you provided, then once the necessary seals are in hand, I'll go slosh around some more in the mud. BTW, the trunnion/wear sleeve replacement went well. In places, both the bushing and the sleeve were worn paper thin but not through. Took the cylinder rod end-caps off and cut them .200" which, along with the fore mention bushing/sleeve replacement almost eliminated the slop.