Ok the TD15 is going to high for me now so I'm now looking at a ? (I'm not sure if the year is correct but that's what the owner states) 1969 Caterpillar D5 Dozer, Manual Transmission, Caterpillar Diesel Engine, Brake Problems, Starts And Runs, SN: 94J952. Anyone now just how bad the brakes are to work on, and the unit has been used for many years in trash dump. Unit looks like it will need some work so not sure what it is worth compared to work it needs. Any info would be appreciated, needing to get a dozer for Farm use cleaning out ponds and repairing some terraces, and pushing out cedar trees. I have included link that has info and pictures. http://www.bigiron.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?bigiron35/88103
Looks like you better be ready to spend some dollars on undercarriage with that beast too. Fairly straight though. I'm assuming the brakes need more than just adjustment. Which means brakes and clutches get removed from unit after cab, seat, and fuel tank get removed. Its not a small job in the least. But fairly straightforward.
Just looked at the TD15 thread, I would say its leaps and bounds ahead of this machine. The undercarriage is much better as well. And really, for 4000 your not going to find anything decent cheaper. If that's too much you really need to ask yourself if you really need a dozer. If the D5 needs any amount of brake work, parts won't take long to eat up a couple thousand alone.
i think maybe they should have just turned off the key when it was in the hole in that trash dump LOL, just kidding but that undercarriage is bad!!! i bet under load it jumps sprocket teeth. i don't know what your budget is but if you are just moving dirt not in a production setting, go for a smaller dozer in better shape for the money, or if your only talking about 100hrs a year rent something or hire someone ......imho.......................theironoracle
That D5 looks worn out. Landfills are the hardest places on equipment. When a landfill gets rid of their equipment, its because it is totally worn out and not worth putting any money into. If you are thinking of buying it, get it checked out. If you can't do it yourself, pay for this service if you have too, it will pay for itself in the long run.
That"s what I'm thinking about now spend money to fix up and know what shape it is in and be able to get parts for or spend more for one that looks like it is in better shape, then have something go wrong, anyway that seems to be my luck. I wasn't sure how bad it was to work on brakes on the D5, I have rebuilt the main clutch on a D69U it wasn't to bad but having to take cab off may talk me out of it. The TD15 just worries me if I would be able to find parts if/when needed the engine I'm not to worried about as there seems to be quit a few of the old Detroit 4-71's around. But clutches and brakes on the TD15 would be my main worry.
Forgot to mention that around here if you can find one available (Cat dealer has 15 D5's but all are out) rental is $2,000.00 for minimum one week rental and local dozer operator wants $5000.00 just to clean out 1 pond and it's not that big, but with the drouth they have people begging.
Buying a fixer upper is a good way to save some cash and to fix it so you know what you have. Cat parts are easy to get, even for old equipment, so the Cat stuff would be the way to go. I guess it all come down to how cheap you can buy it for and what you have the ability to fix yourself. Undercarrage replacement would be very costly. There is enough experience here on the forum that you would be able to get the help on how to fix almost any problem. Final drives require some specialized tooling to press together and apart so its best if they are in good shape. Brakes on the D5 would be an easy job. just time consuming removing everything to get to them. I think the cab could stay on if the fuel tank could be pulled out.
In the U.K. this old Bird (D5) would soon be snapped up, its a very complete little outfit, the engine 333C is a good chunk under the hood, the steering clutch/brake units can be lifted out without the bevel gear, the tracks (SALT) etc are well done for but would easily manage a few more hours with a bit of effort, the bent up trash rack on the blade would soon cut off to smarten up the "Bow Line", plus parts for the D5 non OEM are common and very cheap to buy, if you cannot spend the big $$$ on an top operational chariot dont be scared of a little D5 with a few aches and pains.
Just checking to see if anyone has a good site for looking up ser# to confirm date a couple sites say the 94J didn't start till 1971 but most of their numbers have an extra digit, where this is 94J952 the ones they showed had a 0 between the J and the 9. Thanks for all the help so far. Russell
Most serial numbers are 7 digits so 0's are added in front of the number. This is too old and not in Cats system so 1969 sounds about right. It does show a delivery date to The City of Ada, OK in 1987 but this may have been the last time the info was updated. ironrecord shows it as 1969.
My s/n list actually shows it to be the first unit built in 1970, not that it makes any difference. If your serious about investing have a pro look over the unit for any serious problems like damaged housings, cracked frames, major engine/transmission issues. The type that would wipe out recovery efforts. As far as the back end goes, it's not a whole lot different than working on the old 9U's.
Personally, I would stay clear of the Cat; what you can't see is probably as bad as what you can! Take a look at the Kobelco instead; would probably work as well or better, depending on your ponds. Would also handle large trees. Sounds as though they want to get it off the lot, with the make an offer comment!
Forgot to say that the Kobelco is on Big Iron also, with a video of it operating.
Cat D5 with 94J prefix (105 HP, 25,000 lbs) was built from 1966 through 1977. The 95J is the powersift model of the same tractor (source: Cat Performance Handbook, former models). If this is a hobby and you enjoy working on old iron then perhaps this would be okay, but be prepared to spend more on the repairs than you are paying for the machine. If your goal is to clean your pond then hiring a good contractor is likely your most cost effective solution. By the time you pay for insurance, mobilization, fuel, and any damage of a rental machine you may not come out much ahead of hiring a pro. If you do indeed buy a tractor (perhaps not this one) I concur with Lee - old Cat parts are much easier to find than other brands. Good Luck!
Also, locally a D6N rents for $750/day, $2100 per week from Cat Rental Store.
I did get a little more info on the old D5 from one of the operators that has run it for the city. He states that the Engine if he remembers correctly had a fresh overhaul just before the City bought it in 1987, the brake problem is it will not turn to one side disengages but no brake maybe adjustment but he thought would need new brake. The engine runs and starts good, has good oil pressure no or little smoke. He said the machine has been serviced regularly and has never had much problems till the brake and the city had already decided to sell it before that came up so wasn't repaired and really wasn't checked to see if needed adjustment. I did find a used set of tracks (chain only approx 60%) for $900.00 Also I have a question I noticed in one of the pictures that on the left side floorboard there are 2 pedals right by the heater what would these be for? I was guessing blade tilt but that would only be one? We take care of approx 350 acres most of it family ground and my own,it is mixture of pasture and hay ground so there is always a need for dozer for terrace repairs repairing low water crossing and cleaning up about 60 acres of timber along with the maintenance of 6 ponds which should all be cleaned out as all are dry now.
Rep0144, I believe that you are correct, the pedals near the heater should be blade tilt (push the left to tilt left, right to tilt right). If you have some info on the history it may not be as much of a gamble, but be prepared to spend some money. Having one brake not work is somewhat common as some operators were in the habit of using only one brake when stopping or changing directions, rather than alternating pedals. You may get lucky and have enough adjustment left to make it servicable for a while. Good Luck!
Brakes on those girls are dry, and come out in 3 sections, you don,t have to pull the clutchs. Brake reline is not that big a job.
The steering clutches and brakes are some parts that are still available new........did that job on my buddies a couple years ago..........it's the drivetrain hard parts that you would need to source out used..........
Looks like the TD15 will sell for at least $5500.00 Had another question come to mind on the D5 the main clutch on the D69U was a dry clutch is the D5 similar or is it wet. If my estimate is close I will probably plan on, in addition of cost to purchase D5 spending an additional $4,000 to $5,000 to bring it up to where I would want it, but maybe not spend it all at one time. What I would hope to get fixed first is get the Right hand track tightened up (maybe spring or grease seal on piston) and get the brake problem fixed my guess is just go in and rebuild both sides and get it over with, also check all clutches and bearings in these areas while in there. Then put some time on it (maybe get a pond cleaned out) and debate how long I can put off the track rebuild.
Well the TD 15 sold for $5,900.00 so after 10% buyers fee will cost who ever bought not me $6490.00 I still think I would be better off if price doesn't get to high on the D5
the D5 is a very dry looking chunk of iron, it might be a bit of a Banger but its not dripping like a busted fridge, I would buy it in a moment.
When you look at that D5, drain some oil out of the final drives to check for any toothache. Finals are probably there weakest point, especially if they,ve been abused. Master clutch is oil and near bulletproof; but not idiot proof if its been run out of oil. Same with manuel gearbox. Track adjuster will just be the seals on the piston, but may require a new cylinder as well, but all this is cheap enough and easy enough to fix. Pull the back diamond shaped cover off the rear main case, [no oil will come out] and give the crownwheel a good pry sideways with a crowbar, there should be no sideways movement. If there is you will have to pull steering clutchs and do the bevel gear bearings. These were a good little dozer and were extremely popular down here for land development and agricultural work.
Thanks for the info I was hoping the main clutch was wet. Now I just have to wait and see if someone else wants it worse than I do.
Probably could have parted it out for way more than that but your not in the salvage business.......good luck with your bidding........