D5C 3MK LGP clutch steer. I found one final drive had started leaking suddenly at the end of today. Closer inspection found a piece of wire hooked in around the sprocket with the end in the duo cone. Not a major wrap up, just a fairly short piece. I pulled it out with a pair of pliers, and I think it came out without any breaking off. So, if I top up the oil tomorrow, what is the probability that the seal will be okay? If the seal still leaks, how much trouble is it to change? Do you really need a 30 tonne cylinder to get the sprocket off? Do you really need the same cylinder and threaded adapter to pull it back on? Are there any 'bush methods'?
We made up this home made system to get the sprocket off of our D4D. We have not put it back together yet.......not sure if we can do it in a redneck way or if we hire a guy with a power pack. If the wire was not wrapped around the seal, try it & see what happens, just keep checking the oil level if it leaks some.
Thanks for the reply, I filled it up and tried it out, but it is leaking badly so it's going to have to come apart. I may be able to make up something like you have to get it off. Let me know if your redneck method of refitting it works.
Got a D6D doing the same thing. It's sitting waiting to head back to shop. It's a big job putting those seals in, that pulling and pressing is the big deal. I'm not looking forward to it at all.
I had a leaking one on my D3, and had my mechanic take a look at it. He did all the prep work, but still had to have Cat come in and press it off and on.
From what I can see, the D5C is not the same as the D6D / D4D style. It is simply a sprocket on a shaft. See photo. If I can rig up a puller to get it off, anyone got any redneck way of putting it back on? Surely it's been done in the bush without the proper gear?
This thread doesn't seem to come up in the 'New Posts' section??? I emailed the site 'contact us' about it but got no reply........
Yes this thread does come up as new replies. Can you purchase another nut and weld that onto some frame work you can use two bottle jacks against?
Yair . . . I just saw this thread Plant Fitter . What value does the sprocket need to be pressed to? I have no knowledge of the machine or set up but from your photos it looks like a cage and backing plate could be built onto a spare nut and pressure from a bottle jack applied to a piece of suitable sized pipe or bore casing to shove it home. . . I think the forces need to be confined to the sprocket and the shaft. Imagine Metalman 55's set up only the legs go to plates both drilled to take the rods. The new sprocket nut is welded to one plate which is spun onto the shaft until it bottoms out and the whole setup assembled. The bore casing. pipe or whatever is slipped over the lot and pressure ideally applied to the sprocket with a fabricated three arm strong back . . . a bit of shagging around but no great cost. I believe mikebramel is suggesting a similar deal. I must say that set up looks pretty simple with no bearing on the track frame . . . a bit deadly though for the "wire in the seal" syndrome. The taper of the housing and the sprocket direct it straight into the seal. No wire guards hey? Cheers.
Thanks for the suggestions. It is quite simple apart from the amount of force needed. It took a fair bit to get it off. I reckon I will be able to rig up something to put it back on like has been suggested. The book calls for "a force of 35 to 40 tonnes" for reassembly. Whatever I invent will be a bit rough without any pressure gauge, but will be better than just tightening up the nut without any pressing. Any research about doing this confuses me a bit, there are several mentions in various threads about pressing on the dead shaft to not damage the hub or something. None of it really makes sense and so I have decided that I don't have a dead shaft, that is something that real dozers have to connect the sprocket to the track frame or something along those lines. TC Tractors is obviously the gun at this type of work, but he seems to have gone walkabout? I have never heard of wire guards? Nothing shows in the parts book, so it has to be home made?
Can anybody tell me anything about wire guards?
Can anybody tell me anything about dead shafts?
Yair . . . Guday Plant Fitter. Good one, you got the bugger off okay! There are lots of folks more knowlegable than me but I think that little D5 has ridged (non oscillating) track frames and so does not have a dead shaft. I always take dead shaft to mean the shaft on which the track frames pivot. On conventional Cats, Komatsus. Allis and so on this is also the shaft on which the sprockets rotate. Certain other tractors with oscillating track frames utilise a separate dedicated dead shaft independent of the final drive. Wire guards are just heavy bars bolted to the housing and just feathering the sprocket. You probably would have to make them. Cheers.
Not quite the tooling the workshop manual specifies, but it seems to have done the job. Built at a cost of $70 for the nut, plus steel and the jack that were already on hand, compared to $12,000 for all the proper Caterpillar gear.