Hello all I am doing some work on my d6c 10k trying stop some of the leaks in the motor bay my d6 has a leak at the valve at the seal on the resivour I am wounding how you get the valve out I am pretty sure you have to pull the tank but do you have to split the tank or is there another way. I would like to get this fixes because it leaks right and builds up around my starter. Thanks for everybody's help. This forum has been great help to me and my small business. Thanks again from Texas.
There's o-rings where the lines bolt on to the valve/tank. No need to remove the tank if thats where its leaking. Is it leaking there or around the control shafts?
Any chance of posting a photo of the leak ..?
Niege I have a photo that I can post. My dozer only has a two way blade so there is one shaft that comes out of the tank above the starter that is where it is leaking.
here is the picture.
sorry it is turned the wrong way
OK, now the dog can see the rabbit ......... You're going to have to split the tank to fix that, there are seals at both ends of that shaft that sticks out of the tank. Below is a typical diagram of what it looks like inside. You'll need a new gasket for between the 2 halves of the tank for when you put it back together. It also appears as though the joints on the control linkage are ready for replacement.
Nige your awesome thanks. And yes they are worn thinking about building it back up.
What is the hydraulic system serial number? Should be a tag on the tank. I probably have the parts book.
I was gonna say that............. I picked a 163 Hydraulic Control at random but to get the actual Part Numbers will need the data from the S/No plate of the Hydraulic Control actually installed on the tractor.
Where at on the tank
On the top of tank Bob
Found it it's a 163
There are about 20 different Serial Number prefixes of 163 control, which one do you have........? It will start something like 15X maybe.
38G11887 this is it. What all am I going to need to replace while I am in there seals etc.
38Gxxxx is the correct series, unfortunately I only have info on earlier s/n but I believe the shaft seal shown in section A-A is the same for all, including the tank flange gasket 4J4080. You will also need two 8F6711, one 1H9696 and one 4F7952 seal (o-rings) for the line connection flanges.
It appears as though the higher 38G Serial Numbers of hydraulic control have significant differences to what OM has posted above. I have the complete download of the info for your particular hydraulic control 38G11887. There is a Gasket Kit 8S-9778 that appears to include everything you will need to overhaul the tank including the gasket between the 2 halves and the seals for the hydraulic lines. The only thing the gasket kit doesn't include is the 2 bushes that your leaking shaft runs on. I would suggest that you change them (because they are more than likely worn), and also change the filter while you're at it. PM me with your e-mail address and I'll fire it off to you.
Nige, D6C's have 2 filter elements in a stack. tctractors
Tc tractor that is correct I changed them out not to many hours ago. Any idea of what year my D6 was made?
sorry, a typo. Should've said filters....... But either way if the OP is going to pull the tank apart he should change them.
That's what s/n's are for. Takes one to determine the year built.
10k1099
That's an early one, 1968 with D333c engine.
Well just a up date the tank is split man somebody should have warned me on how hEavy the was I will need suggestions on how tO get it back in lol. So I found that there was play in the shaft so I am guess the bearings are worn also the seal was hard so should I replace the shaft also. And what else should I look to replace while I am in there. Besides just gaskets also the tank was actually pretty clean. I want to thank old magnet and nige for there help you guys are great.
The bearings are softer than the shaft therefore in theory they should wear first/most. So long as you're not in a desperate rush in the first instance I would replace the bushes and polish the shaft. Then before installing the seal drop the shaft in and check how much play you have between the shaft and the bushes. If at that point there is still too much play then replace the shaft.
Had the same leaks on my D6....the seal had worn grooves in the shaft, and as I remember, at least one of the shafts was unavailable from Cat. (the other was pricey) I ended up welding up the seal groove, turning down the shaft, and polishing it. Don't think the bearing was too loose on mine....don't think I replaced the needle bearings. With the oil tank removed it was a good time to check the linkages for the steering clutched and throttle. The rod ends are usually worn and loose....braze up the clevis holes, redrill them and put in new pins. I also rebuilt the decelerator brake underneath the oil tank at the same time....the shaft in it had worn clear through the bushings. Where I can, I drill & tap for grease zerks so they're easy to lube later.
Nige and Old Magnet I have a question when I put the tank back together the gasket that goes between the two do I need to put some liquid gasket or something to help seal it off??
If you have some Loctite Liquid Gasket (the red stuff, not silicone) a really thin smear on both sides of the gasket probably won't hurt. The trick as far as I'm concerned is to tighten the bolts a little at a time starting from the centre of each side (so 4 starting points) and working from there into the corners - if that makes sense. It's a bit like a cylinder head but you have 4 "centre bolts" which makes it kinda tricky.
Gasgacinch gasket sealer would be a good alternative.
I would be very hard pressed to stick any "gunge" on any gasket as it tends to make the gasket migrate from the clamping face, it is common now to have gaskets that come in Puzzle form, its tough not to put some jollop on the puzzle joint, the smallest amount only is all it needs to help in this area else the joint will part out, the tank joint (gasket) is always in 1 piece and I use line up studs to hold the joint in place as I re-fit the cover, when you have the tank open its a good mindset to look at the oil feed to the pump as you dont want jollop going down the pipe heading for your gear type hydraulic pump, to change those control seals is a goodish bit of work, I often find that the tank has been loose on its mounting bolts needing an amount of fettling back to standard also. tctractors
Well just a update got the tank back together I did use the grey gasket maker that you get at O'Reillys it is vibration resistant. I put that on either side of it. I went to tractor supply today to get non detergent motor oil to fill it back up but they were out I will get some tomorrow at napa. I hope there are no leaks!!!
If you used a new gasket why use that crap, the oil feed pipe will end up sending bits of that gunk into the pump? was the gasket to costly? tctractors. p.s. if it was my tractor I would srape that crap off and use the correct joint.
Question there tc tractor before the fluid gets pulled into the pump doesn't it go through filter?? Another thing is yes I did use a new gasket, but this is not the first time for me to see these instructions I seen it in repair Manuel's for timing covers Any ways wht is done is done at this point I am not taking that heavy tank back out. Any how day late and dollar short. Thanks any ways
No. The filter is in the return line.
Thank you Nige, the oil feed to the pump is via a big hole with nowt in the way of a filter, I have not seen any script in a 333C-3306 service manual for the use of gunk? anyhow as you have said its "Done" so it is. tctractors
Most of the US tractor service manuals will suggest a adhesive or a contact retaining glue to act as a third/fourth set of hands to attach gaskets, for those installations where sealant creep or possible mechanism consumption and damage will occur there will be notations to avoid such materials. I too am not a believer in red or blue glue adhesives placed with caulking guns as so many people I see do, can make a bad condition worse many times over but a well placed thin skin of sealant in rough places to get at or a troublesome joint that consistently leaks will hurt very little. I still use CopperKote, some Permatex non hardening sealants as 2A and gasket eliminator plasticized application some manufacturers issue, at times they can be life savers as to return to tear down in machines.
Don't we all wish the good old "Cat Green" was still available..? Just a thin smear of it would stick a gasket to one side of a joint (e.g. like this tank or an oil pan) to help to keep it in place while you frig around getting all the bolts in.
It was good stuff but pitty the guy who had to get that gasket off once it was hardened from age. Had not tried buying any in a long time, it's not available any more? How about that red liquid gasket I believe it was for finals on dozers. Seems I recall watching guy out in Peoria with a spray gun making a quick job of applying it to some big dozer final. He could do one in a couple seconds that would take several minutes with the little "brush-in-can" applicator!
where can i get a service manual for my d6c ?
Best bet would be eBay or similar on-line auction site. There is nothing available in Adobe pdf or similar format. Paper manuals are very expensive new but come up regularly used. Expect to pay around $2-300 for one in good condition. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-CATERPI...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item4ad84e4f79 Not sure if your Serial Number is in the list of applicable machines.
E bay lister is from Union, NH, about 30 minutes up the road from me!
I'll send myself an email to check in the "archives" at work to see if I have one kicking around. Do you have a S/N so I can be sure if I have one it will work for your machine. If I do have one it will be less than the one on ebay.
5H-2471 cat green and 138-8436 cat red are still available from Cat. Bob
They come up on my system as "Indirect Replacement - Contact Dealer" which I take to mean that the dealer will have the equivalent Loctite product in stock or can get it for you.
thank yall all for the info and if you have one kshansen let me know i had a new i bought years ago and one of my hands that i'm training some how dropped his cigarette on it didnt see it till it was to late and burned it up. i dont mind paying as lomg as no pages missing and in decent shape thank you again
mines a d6c 74a if you can help me out thank you
Got busy at work so I had to run back to the shop after dinner to look, it's only 1/2 mile so no big deal. Unfortunately no dozer service manuals around any more. You could try giving a shop near here that does lots of work on the older Cat equipment a call. They may actually have some of our old manuals! S & S Tractor Parts Inc 2500 Station Ln Marcellus, NY 13108 (315) 673-1075 Ask for Mark and tell him Ken Hansen suggested them.
I've used this cement for 45 years and the last 2 cans I bought last week are the same 5h-2471 only says made by metal-cote.But I guess if you have only seen it on your computer you won't know that. Bob